Wednesday, 30 May 2012
(Stelwin bottle) Pale lemon yellow. Fresh nose of seaweed, minerals, butter and lemons. Fresh acidity, quite a lift from the 2000 a few days back, refreshing, towards lively, barrels are a bit showy in the finish, but evolving nicely, creamy texture. 91
Pale lemon yellow, flinty and apples on the nose, just with a twist of lime. Fresh acidity, fatter palate, towards rich, and with air falling apart, feeling oxidized. 89 the first ten minutes.
Pale golden, citrus, minerals, vanilla, touch of flint. Fresh acidity, balanced, easygoing and enjoyable after many white Burgundies lately, more balanced, together, lovely white Bordeaux. 87
Pale golden, some apples and apricots on the nose. Fresh acidity, balanced but slightly boring. Very elegant and easy to drink but not very complex and exciting. 84
Ruby, garnet rim, cassis, cigars and cedar. Again tighter than normal, leaner feel, needed time and air to open. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, I love the texture and structure, long. 95
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby, garnet rim. I'm not sure if it's the day (root or fruit or whatever), but every bottle (other than the Chablis) seems tighter today than normal. Even this rich, exotic, prunes, cassis, sweet tobacco, spices, over the top Mouton feels somewhat more masculine and firmer than earlier bottles. Feels youthful and at peak at the same time, will surely thunder along further. 95
Ruby, elegant and almost velvety nose. Blueberries, vanilla, some floral high-notes and white chocolate. Elegant texture, fresh acidity, ripe and soft tannins, very enjoyable, but almost too easy going, too easy to enjoy. But I would have loved more complexity. 93
My fourth bottle since New Years, and this one is perfect like the last of the quite a huge bottle variation. Ruby, leather, terracotta, cassis, fine tobacco, almost minty and vanilla. Youthful feel and fresh acidity, ripe tannins. Broadbent asked in the book: Vintage Wine, '-Will it ever shed it's tannins?' Yes it has, superb yet again. 96
Deep ruby, a blockbuster after the 85 Ausone, still manages to show real finesse, something that allures me with the 98 Grange. Developing slowly, intense, rich, nuanced, balanced, layered, refined, the 76 Grange in the making, fresh, and incredibly long. 97
Garnet, blueberries, leather and some figs. Leaner style and more withdrawn style of St-Emilion, almost tender, some herbs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more for meditation than competitio. 92
Lemon yellow, rich nose, nuts, butter, cream, bacon fat. Not quite what you expect from Chablis. Minerals are hardly evident, acidity on the low side, some vanilla, easy drinking. 88
Tuesday, 29 May 2012
2003 Château Grand Puy Lacoste;
(Magnum) Served blind. Not opaque, but almost black with uby rim. Cassis, violets, vanilla, almost terracotta minerals, later towards salty. Lowish acidity, high of ripe tannins, a bit rough now, (got more balanced with air), needs another few years, at least in magnum, I guessed 03 Pauillac. 90
1983 Château Gombaude-Guillot;
(Magnum) Served blind, cloudy garnet, brick rim. Oxidized prunes, metallic, dy nose. Fresh acidity, otherwise tired, I guessed 78 Gombaude-Guillot. The 83 is normally better than this, if never a Grand Vin.
2009 Pierre Naigeon Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses Vieilles Vignes;
Pale ruby, strawberries, some herbs vanilla and unripe raspberries. Fresh acidity, pure fruit, ripe tannins, a bit lean, very elegant, nice length. One of only 614 bottles made. 90
2008 Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin;
Bright ruby, strawberries, pepper, vanilla, pure and elegant as always, but not as "show off" as my last bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, on the verge of sharp for Rousseau, again not as flirting. Keep. 88
2005 Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges La Perrière;
Pale golden, yellow fruits. Minerals, vanilla, some barrel notes on the nose. Flinty character. Fresh acidity, rich yet elegant, very mineraly finish. Balanced and long. 92
Monday, 28 May 2012
Ruby, anise, tobacco, blackcurrant's, slightly firmer than the last bottle, seductive, complex and layered like few. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, evolving beautifully, fantastic length, oh, how I adore the 98 Lafite. 96
Deep ruby, blackcurrant's, leather, spices, tightest bottle so far. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, complex and layered. Just shows the peak of what's in there, wait at least ten years. 94 for now.
(2nd Ch.Latour) A level fill, deep ruby. Intense, tobacco, cassis, massive and earthy nose. Prunes and leather. Fresh acidity, somewhat lean, yet full. Tannins quite ripe, drying slightly (tannins) in the finish. Quite long, needs to be decanted. Leaner and more austere than a bottle two months back. 91+
Bright ruby, perfumed, roses, straberries, etheral, nuanced, fairly intense. Sweetish palate, towards ripe feel, seductive. Quite fresh acidity, tannins soft and elegant. Pure and long. 90
Pale ruby. Strawberries, spices, towards peppery, truly elegant and refined nose, extremelly seductive. Such elegance on the palate, nice acidity, extremelly pure, fantastic length. Not quite as open as a bottle a few months back. 95+
Ruby, garnet rim. Fresh nose, green paprika, cassis, furnish polish, herbs, nettles, awkward bottle. Somewhat lean palate, ripe tannins, absolutely not an optimal bottle. Faulty storage?
Very bottom neck fill, cork almost soaked. Cedar, figs, plums, prunes, leather, intense of sweet tobacco later on. Fresh acidity, tannins soon gone, drying and hollow finish, not the best bottle I've had. 85
Ruby, floral nose, violets, pure cassis, leather touch, fine cigars, just layers of refinement. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, such elegance, long finish. I'm probably on the high side, but I've fallen in love with the 99 Margaux, and this was a very open and giving bottle. 95
Ruby, tobacco, minerals, smoke, cassis, refreshing acidity, ripe tannins. Slightly edgy now, had a rounder bottle last time, needs time to refine itself, very young. Long. 94
Golden. Layered and seductive nose of tropical fruits, peaches and apricots, topped with fines vanilla. Fresh acidity, beautiful texture and structure, incredible length, stunning. 96
Pale lemon yellow. Tight nose, needed time to open, lemon, apples, minerals and orange blossoms. Fresh and towards high acidity, lively, playful, elegant, never opened fully, long. 93
Deep purple. Another 09 CdP that feels fresher and less alcoholic in 09. Dark fruits on the nose, intense. Fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins, rich, long finish. 90
1999 Domaine de Chevalier blanc;
Towards golden, fresh nose, elegant nose, flinty lemon, heavier citrus behind, vanilla, smoky minerals with air. Fresh acidity, lively, refreshing. Sort of more easygoing style for DdC blanc, long. 93
1966 D'Oliveiras Verdelho;
Amber with orange rim. Rich, intense, citrus, orange peel, caramel, Christmas spices, cloves. Fresh and high acidity, lively, slightly hollow mid-palate, long. 89
1977 D'Oliveiras Terrantez;
Amber, orange rim. Intense, rich, nuts, orange peel, chocolate, complex. Fresh feel, high acidity, mouthwatering, layered, intense, beautiful aftertaste, long. 92+
ABSL Meio Doce, Muito Vehla;
Pale amber, rich, plums, tighter feel. Rich palate, fresh and lively, elegant, dried fruits, apricots, nuts, long, somewhat leaner finish. As I've written earlier, the Olim brothers of ABSL has a "large" stock left from their father and grandfather, and their not quite sure of age. This is probably Boal, at least from the 1970's, probably much older. 92
Friday, 25 May 2012
1990 Château Montrose;
Ruby, garnet rim. Decanted close to five hours. Intense nose, power, yet finesse. Overwhelming! Dark berries, tobacco, deep notes, like having Barry White singing at your table. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, massive, extreme, lacks some complexity, or it's all in a ball in there somewhere, everything else in abundance. 95-96
1982 Château Conseillante;
Ruby, garnet rim. Hugely seductive nose, has everything. Floral notes, leather, soft, dark berries, ripe in the most elegant sence of the word, violets, lilies of the valley. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, stunning balance. Ripe plums and blackberries, rushes like a thundercoaster through the theme park. Seductive as few, flirting and gives it all, decanted for 3,5 hours, slightly herbal mid palate, long. 96-97
1970 Château Léoville Las Cases;
Ruby, towards garnet rim. Superbly elegant nose, integrated, cassis, raw meat, tobacco, fine leather. Fresh acidity, needs a lot of time in the decanter, lively, lovely tannins, long and elegant finish. One of my best 70 Las Cases. 95
1966 Château Haut-Brion;
Top shoulder fill, ruby, brick rim. Almonds, a touch of VA, wood polish, roses, tight behind, blackcurrant's leaf. Tighter palate, tannins very ripe, but palate is slightly drying, transparent, green leaf notes in the finish. 89 Better than my last bottle, but still not an optimal one.
1970 Château Haut-Brion;
Bottom neck fill. Bright ruby, brick rim. Very closed first, opens up quickly, refined nose, floral, almost Burgundian transparency, minerals, tobacco and stonefruits. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant, seductive, tender, good length. 93
Thursday, 24 May 2012
1947 Clos Fourtet;
Mid-shoulder fill, perfect cork. Ruby, brick rim. Leather, plums, figs, floral, hyacinth's and roses. Splendid nose, quite rich body, but a bit one-dimensional. Elegant, chocolate with more air. Fresh acidity, tannins gone. Adding and adding, very long, if a bit lean. Getting almost Port-like on the nose for a few minutes before quietly and very slowly starting to die off. 94-95 at best, lasting nicely longer than we had it in our glasses.
Monday, 21 May 2012
1975 Roederer Cristal;
Top fill, tight cork. Towards golden, tiny bubbles. Flint, beeswax, minerals, smoke, floral, getting fresher and tighter with air, more focused. Stunning balance, fresh acidity, almost apricot stones, a bit lean finish, very long. 94
Sunday, 20 May 2012
Wine writers are strange animals. Most love to portrait themselves as objective, that they see it all from all angels and perspectives. That they judge absolute and fairly. Someone’s life’s work for a few years, judged in seconds. Some are more subjective than they might like to admit. Robert Parker has a style. Michael Broadbent another. And Jancis Robinson, and so it continues. I enjoy it when I “crack the code” of someone’s preferences. Only then do I understand what they’re on about. Some writers I can never understand, or crack open it seems. Tasting panels means nothing to me, as they’re results have too many parameters. I can never find they’re preference either.
Today I met a totally new honesty. Someone clear about the preferences. Someone, who thought me to be wrong, because I didn’t share those same preferences. I should have agreed! The quality wasn’t good enough…. For whom? For the wine writer? For this one wine writer? Many will agree, and many will not. The question was about whom to write about, and whom to exclude. I have no problem seeing that some producer of the drops of Dionysus have to be excluded when you don’t have unlimited space. But I was a bit surprised by the honesty of the answers, how subjective they were.
I can enjoy a glass of Barolo from Josetta Saffirio. I can enjoy a bottle, and I have done so many times. At a tasting at Villa Beccaris in Monforte d’Alba, Sarah’s wines came out first during a blind tasting. That was my first taste of her wines. Later that night we enjoyed a dinner with Nicola Argamente, Domenico Clerico and others down the hill at Ruggeri Corsini. The next day we visited her winery. I have tasted them many times since, and have only good memories.
I have many fond memories after visiting Vietti many times as well. Many great visits with the always smiling and charming Luca Currado, sometimes even tasting forbidden fruits. But my point here is that from my perspective, Vietti makes finer wines than Saffirio. I haven’t tasted younger wines than the 07 vintage from either, so I’m not totally up to scratch. But Vietti have a longer track record, and they make some of the best wines in Barolo, not at the absolute top, but close.
Domenico Clerico was omitted as well, and seeing that Robert Parker in the book ‘The world’s greatest wine estates’ has included this producer, it’s a wine of repute. Robert Parker’s word is not law, not in anyway. It may or may not be to your or my liking, as any wine. But the condescending answer from the wine writer at hand was that the wines of Domenico Clerico are killed by oak flavours, and that I should know better. Meaning I should have known why they were not mentioned. Why they were excluded.
I didn’t. I’m not a particularly big fan of Cos d’Estournel and Pavie anymore. Old vintages are fine yes, but now, it’s Bordeaux on steroids. Vulgar, fat and bling. Like Russians with new found wealth while fighting to get expensive purses at Sax Fifth Avenue. They have little resemblance with French nobility and their elegant Hermes. But if I’m to write on Bordeaux, can I exclude them? Just because I don’t like them? Isn’t that a bit too easy? Some love them, they sell, even quicker in some markets than some wines closer to my palate and liking. For the record, I think Domenico Clerico is overly oaked myself.
I was astounded by the honesty, of which the pickings had been utterly from personal preference, regardless of what anybody else should believe or think. Or suggest.
Friday, 18 May 2012
Pale lemon yellow, tender and caressing nose of ripe lemon and a caressing minerality. A hint of smoked ham far behind. Finaly a white Rhône that doesn't have acidity like a worn and washed out t-shirt. On the low side, yes, but this one still manages to make things almost fresh, it's adequate. Slightly heavy finish, and the alcohol is somewhat untidy. 92, not for everyone.
Wednesday, 16 May 2012
Bottom neck fill, ruby with garnet rim. Leather, cassis, bell peppers, licorice, morellos, sweet feel and elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner style yes, but elegant and long, lovely bottle. 92
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Bottle bought last year in Bordeaux, supposedly directly from the cellars of Château Montus. Special nose, some brett, something very Bordeaux with some black tea, cassis, cigars, something reminisens of cedar and pencil shave, but also something Burgundian. Warm strawberries, sous bois, and tender cherry stones. Fresh acidity, surprisingly low tannins for tannat, medium and ripe, well balanced, rounded, good length. 90
Tuesday, 15 May 2012
1991 Château Léoville Barton;
(Served blind) Bright ruby, ruby rim. What a nose, lost for words. Pencil all the way, cigars, cedar, cassis, so intense, layered and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mouthwatering, raspberries, spices, stunning, even if not quite up to the nose. Long. 94
1986 Daniel Rion Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Argillières;
Pale ruby, brick rim, cloudy. Strawberries, rose hips, slightly earthy. Fresh acidity, lively, drying of and loosing fruit quickly, just a few minutes. 85 at best.
1996 J.Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices;
(Magnum) So, what was wrong with this one? Lacked fruit, somewhat oxidized, some sayd corked, but no sign of cark the day after, but still lacked everything, and was still somewhat oxidized. Some premox?
2007 Cédric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Lieu-dit La Haute Lemble;
Another suposedly 5- or 700 bottles made only Champagne! Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Elegant nose, with a sharp edge, lime, apples, yeast, almost salty and oyster minerals. Fresh and lively acidity and mousse, elegant texture, balanced and long finish. 94
2002 Camille Savès Bouzy Grand Cru;
Pale lemon yellow. Fresh nose, lemon, apples, yeast, very elegant and clean style. Refreshing mousse and acidity, elegant again, pure. Could have been longer and more complex, but this one charmes it's way through life. 91
1986 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé;
From the Herfjord dubious Champagne's collection. Cloudy orange, lightly oxidized strawberries and apples. Fresh and lean, almost sharp, not something you can enjoy, died quickly in the glass. 84 at the very best minute or so.
1983 Dom Perignon;
Golden, tiny bubbles. Fresh, intense, brioche, coffee, orange marmalade. Fresh acidity, rich mousse, rich palate, more focused finish, leamon and salty seaweed. One of the best 83 DP bottles I've had. 94
1986 Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico;
Neck fill, ruby, rich, massive, intense but shallow nose. Sweet, Port like palate, without the acidity and richness, more elegant and intense, but a bit one-dimensjonal. I was not quite as big a fan as others around the table. 92
1986 Château Rieussec;
In the neck fill. Golden colour, rich nose, botrytis and honey mixed with tropical fruits. Rich palate, and as so often with Rieussec, lacks the acidity needed, feels a bit flabby and a few sips is enough. 88
1986 Château Suduiraut;
In the neck fill. Dolden, vanilla, apricots, heavy and slightly volatile, model-airplane glue. Fresh acidity, good balance and length, but lacks a lot. I have had some better bottles of this one, but it's never a great wine. 86
Monday, 14 May 2012
1988 Château Suduiraut;
In the neck fill. Golden, vanilla, tropical, botrytis, heavu nose. Fresh, apricots and tropical notes, has the vintage edgy bitterness that I can never enjoy (same sort of thing with the 89) a bit lean finish, good length. 89
1986 Château Palmer;
Very top shoulder, bad cork, sign of sepage. Ruby, garnet rim, floral, seductive, violets, cassis, youthful feel. Royal Blend from Fortnum & Mason, perfumed, roses. Fresh acidity, very ripe tannins, palate dissapoints a bit after that nose, superb elegance, long, if tender. 94
1986 Château Léoville Las Cases;
In the neck fill, soaked cork. Bright ruby, stunning nose, fresh red berries, cedar, gorgeous and layered, tobacco, leather, cassis. Complex. Fresh acidity, youthful feel, ripe tannins, fruit in a ball still, needs time, extreme length. 97
1986 Château Grand Puy Lacoste;
Bottom neck fill, ruby, "rich" nose, all Pauillac, but not quite what I'm used to from GPL, cassis, bell peppers, leather, some prunes behind. Tobacco. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly dry palate, good, if lean finish. 90
1986 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande;
(Magnum) In the neck fill. Ruby, superb and elegant nose, needed time to open fully, seductive, elegant lady in almost see through silk dress. Firmer palate, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, adding body with air, youthful, long finish. 94+
1986 Château Pontet-Canet;
In the neck fill, ruby, gorgeous nose, layered and nuanced, pencil shave, bell peppers and licorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body, to lean and slightly edgy finish, still lovely Pauillac. 89
1986 Château Montrose;
Bottom neck fill, deep ruby, brick rim. Tight nose, classic, cassis, bell peppers, almost salty minerals, a very fresh bottle, leather. Fresh acidity, still tannins, probably the richest bottle of 86 Montrose I've had, almost massive finish, long. 94+