Madeira of the week 5: 1903 D'Oliveiras Boal

1903 D'Oliveiras Boal;
Deep amber, red tints, golden rim. Intense and complex nose, nothing jumps out as Paul Pontallier says, magnificent and layered nose. Fresh and high acidity, playful, very lively fruit, superb texture, somewhat leaner than the 1908 Boal, but maybe a touch more refined. Very nuanced and long. 95

About Boal in Alex Lidell's book, Madeira: Boal, a relatively uncommon variety, grows at fairly low altitudes (100-300 metres) on the south of the island, and at present the best seems to come from Campanario and Calheta. It is a sturdier vine than Malvazia and relatively low yielding.

Boal has quite rich taste and a fuller body than Verdelho. It's labeled as medium sweet, but as always with Madeira, acidity is so high, that the residual sugar is often felt to be dryish to off dry on the palate. It's more the aromas that make one feel the sweetness, or a perception of it.