Lunch at Château Dalem in Fronsac, tasting back to 1964

Going in the opposite direction from how the wines was tasted, this was an inspiring lunch during my first Fronsac visit. The landscape is captivating, like the hillsides of Tuscany or Umbria, and turning into the driveway of Château Dalem, an astonishing view towards Pomerol and Saint-Emilion revealed itself. Owner Brigitte Rullier-Loussert welcomed warmly, and after a tour of the estate (talking mostly french with my visiting companions, that I don't understand at all (French that is)) I used the time to gather my thoughts after a pretty busy primeur week. So my head was ready for some food, and a great mushroom pie was served among other courses, and some older vintages. Curiosity ran high!
2001 Château Dalem;

Ruby, maturing beautifully, starting to reach a very nice drinking window, fresh acidity, tannins starting to mature as well, good length. 89

2005 Château Dalem;

Ruby, more fruit driven than the 01, elegant texture and good acidity, feels classic in structure (meaning quite high tannins) yet lovely textured, long length. 91

2007 Château Dalem;

Ruby, fruity and spices at the moment, again fresh acidity, somewhat leaner body, typical of the vintage, but not much of the herbs so typical, ripe tannins, elegant texture, long finish. 89

1995 Château Dalem;

(Magnum) Ruby with garnet rim, fresh and fruity still, leather, figs, plums and cassis, showing evolution in the glass. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, elegant texture, long finish. 92

1990 Château Dalem;

Ruby, garnet rim, floral, expressive, fruit driven, prunes and cassis. Fresh acidity, some elegant tannins, lively and flirting, drinking beautifully now, long and fresh finish. 93

1985 Château Dalem;

(Magnum) Ruby, garnet rim. Prunes, blackcurrant's, leather, perfumed and elegant. More acidity, fresh, lively, tannins ripe, elegant texture, long and fresh finish. 93
1981 Château Dalem;

Ruby with thin brick rim, roses, prunes, violets and fine leather, fresh acidity, mature and really pleasing, elegant finish. 81's, especially Right Bank can surprise, as this one. 90

1970 Château Dalem;

Very top shoulder fill, ruby with orange rim, prunes, roses, floral, flirting and expressive, even plums. Beautiful texture, fresh acidity, soft and ripe tannins, refreshing, to me peaking right now. Gorgeous wine, very good length. 93

1964 Château Dalem;

Very top shoulder fill, ruby with orange rim. Truffles, roses, figs, raisins, some sweetness, cherries and leather. Fresh, elegant, like that old gentleman with a linen suit and a Jaguar XK 140 roadster on a hot summers day, sexy, classic, but not for everybody's taste, tannins seems long gone, long finish. For those who love old wine. 92
This Fronsac visit was a huge eye opener for me, I thought I knew something about Bordeaux..... When you have tasted more Mouton than Fronsac, it's pretty clear one doesn't. That's about to change! Some stunning wines, that really age very well indeed, and you can really afford not bottles, but cases of them. After visiting more estates in the last few weeks, I'm a new fan!