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Saturday 20 October 2012

Winemaker dinner with Zonnebloem at Grilleriet


Three invitations for South-African winemaker dinners or tastings dumped in my mailbox for last week. I did not have time for all of them, but this I managed, and it was an eyeopener. Not only because there was a splendid Pinotage, a grape variety that give me associations towards burnt rubber, asphalt and sweaty socks, and this was just pure fruit, but also on how well some of them could age. These are not expensive wines, and as most who read this blog regularly know that I'm spoiled rotten, I was honestly impressed. Since this dinner served older vintages I was particularly curious about it. And this is not your regular BIB writer stating this! The last wine that touched my lips before this dinner was 2009 Château Latour. Also some excellent talks with Zonnebloem's white winemaker Elize Coetzee, both on the wines themselves but also stories on safaris in Kruger National Park. We started out with a sparkling wine.

Pongrácz Cape Classique:
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Fruit-driven on the yellow fruit side and a touch of yeast. Fresh acidity, very elegant mousse, again yellow fruits and good length. Easy going but never boring. 84

Then on to Zonnebloem, first two whites.

2011 Zonnebloem Sauvignon Blanc:
BU2031201 (109,90) Pale lemon yellow. Fresh and fruit-driven, very ripe lemons and a touch of yellow apples. Fresh acidity, elegant and pure feel. Good length. 84

Served with cheviche of salmon with apple. Went well with the dish, even if I feel that the seafood paella mentioned from the producer would be excellent.

2011 Zonnebloem Chardonnay:
BU576601 (109,90) Towards lemon yellow. Apples and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, the oak is there but well integrated, especially at this pricerange, fruity, creamy texture and good length. 84

Served with scallop with fresh chilly. The chili sauce completely killing the combination and the delicate flavours of the scallop, but without the sauce, a good match.




On to reds.

2001 Zonnebloem Pinotage Reserve:
Magnum (n/a, 2010 Pinotage is, not tasted) Ruby, red and darker berries, licorice and some vanilla. Somewhat scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing and good length. 85

1981 Zonnebloem Pinotage:
Bright ruby. Earthy, leafy with some figs and raisins. Fresh acidity, tannins gone. Slightly fruitier than the bottle tasted the day before, balanced and good length. 83

Served with grilled cod with garlic cream and chestnuts. I'm not at all comfortable with fish and red wine as is quite customary in Norway. This worked much better with the Chardonnay I still had in my glass. A nice dish even if the chestnuts made it a bit dry.

2010 Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon:
BU4002801 (124,90) Deep ruby. Cassis and paprika, pure Cab nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, on the lean side but nice body and length. 85

1971 Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon:
Bright ruby, brick rim. Slightly dusty with figs, prunes and licorice. Fresh acidity, younger palate, elegant fruit. Ripe and few tannins if slightly drying finish. 86 at the very best stage.

Served with sirloin and sausage of lamb from Lofoten, side chimichurri, mint and turnip puree. Sausage was tasty, sirloin had nice flavours but could have been more tender, the rest was OK. Good match with the wines.


2010 Zonnebloem Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier:
BU5123601 (124,90) Deep ruby. Some pepper, blackberries and mint. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, good length. 84

Served with duck from the west country with pepper vanilla gastric, marinated apricots and chanterelles. The apricots was too sweet for the wine, otherwise a lovely dish and matched nicely with the wine.

1981 Zonnebloem Shiraz:
Ruby, thin brick rim. Earthy, some fruits, some pepper and hung game on the nose. Good acidity but tired. Dying off quickly in the glass. 80 at best.

Total disaster with valdeon cheese with walnut bread pudding. This would have worked very well with the next wine, even if the walnut bread pudding was nothing for me.

2010 Bergkelder Fleur du Cap Noble Late Harvest:
BU8052102 (139,90) (Demi) Golden. Apricots, botrytis, pears and cinamon. Fresh acidity, elegant sweetness, balanced and refreshing. Good length. 88+

Served with white chocolate cream and Granny Smith sorbet. A very refreshin dessert and a nice pairing.

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