03 and 05 Dal Forno Romano

2003 Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella Superiore:
Deep ruby, almost opaque with ruby rim. Intense nose of coffee beans and dark chocolate, mixed with vanilla, barrel spices and tobacco. Alcohol overtones on top. Sweet attack, fresh acidity, but feels lazy with the texture and body. High of fairly ripe tannins, just a bit rough on the edges. If that is the excessive barrel use or extraction isn't easy to tell with this amount of bombardment going on. Almost bitter, feels more like Amarone than Valpolicella. Alcohol (15%) is ever present, and it feels as well. Very long, and with less alcohol, this would be an enormous wine. Now it lacks balance. But, two other guys on the next table couldn't get enough of it, so individual palates as always. For me, 85

2005 Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella Superiore:
Almost opaque, ruby rim. Rich and intense nose, but compared to the drier notes on the 03, this is very fruit-driven. Huge amounts of figs, plums, blackberries, always with alcohol on top. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced even if excessive, and less bitter and Amarone-like than the 03. Very different expressions even if similarly styled. 90