Simonnet- Febvre tasting with the winemaker

Winemaker and Managing Director of Chablis producer Simonnet- Febvre, Jean-Philippe Archambaud visited Oslo last week, and I was invited for a tasting of the range. Even if I love white Burgundies, I sometimes find the wines of the very northern part, Chablis, to be a bit too austere in its acidity, minerality, almost steelyness and, lack of fruit isn't the right word, but less fruit at least than Puligny or Meursault, to back the often sharper structure. The style of Simonnet-Febvre is a somewhat more fruit-driven style, and this suits my palate very well. But we started with some Crémant de Bourgogne.

Simonnet- Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne Brut:
BU9457701 (159,90) Pale lemon green, tiny bubbles. Some yeast and apples with fine chalky minerals beneath. Lime and slightly floral. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, green apple peel finish. Good length. 86

Simonnet- Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Cuvée S2008:
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. More apples and yellow plums. More fruit-driven, yeast and grapefruit peel. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, lime and orange finish. Long. 87+

Simonnet- Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé Brut:
Pale salmon, tiny bubbles. Some red berries, touch of strawberries and floral notes. Fresh acidity, slightly on the sweet fruit, elegant mousse and texture, a bit short. 84

2011 Simonnet- Febvre Petit Chablis:
Pale lemon yellow, chalky and lemon nose, with green apples. Fresh acidity, ripe lemons palate, balanced, straight feel to it, good length. 85

2010 Simonnet- Febvre Chablis:
BU3055601 (169,90) Pale lemon yellow. Minerals, apples, lemons, almost layered feel to it actually. Fresh acidity, lemony fruit, fairly focused, good length. 87

2010 Simonnet- Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons:
Pale lemon yellow. Fresh lemons over chalky minerals, yellow apples and even a bit floral. Fresh acidity, fruit-driven, elegant body, towards creamy texture, good length. 88

2010 Simonnet- Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre:
Pale lemon yellow. Floral, rose hips, minerals, a touch of citrus behind. A bit restrained still. Fresh acidity, lively, flinty palate, long length. 90

2008 Simonnet- Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre:
BU5269901 (239,90) Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, flinty, lime, even this is still a bit restrained. Fresh acidity, balanced, lovely texture, again almost creamy. Refreshing and long. 90

2009 Simonnet- Febvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos:
BU5270001 (399,90) Pale lemon yellow. Fresh apples, whiff of roses, some citrus and orange blossoms. Fresh and towards high acidity, elegant balance, feels refined and nuanced, layered and superb length. 93