Finally a beautiful old DRC

1981 Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Richebourg;

Bottle 5690. High fill, bright ruby, orange rim, strawberries, fruity, elegant and quite tender nose first, gaining in intensity with air. Fresh acidity, very refreshing, a bit lean, acidic style with some good fruit lurking behind, ads on both nose and body, getting better by the hour, spicy, very good length, finally a beautiful mature DRC! 94

1938 Clos de Lambrays

1938 Clos de Lambrays;

Michel Couvreur Negociant bottle, fill 4cm below cork. Very pale garnet, orange rim. Volatile touch, strawberry jam, evolved, some leather, refined nose. Getting better and better for 25 minutes in the glass, then a slow deterioration. Gorgeous acidity, pure, extremely elegant and balanced, more fruit sweetness with air on the palate as well, sweet and sour, long length. 93

1980 Bonneau du Martray

1980 Bonneau du Martray, Corton Charlemagne;

Golden, minerals, mature and quite intense nose. Fresh, chablis feel to it, focused and nervy, elegant, but lacks some complexity and length. 90

05 Le Moine

2005 Lucien le Moine Bourgogne Blanc;

Golden, massive nose, oaky and very ripe fruit, almost tropical and sweet. Fat texture and towards low acidity, big and flabby feel, smoky finish. 78

96 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc

1996 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc;

Towards pale golden, wax, honey, minerals, citrus, complex and refined nose. Fresh and quite high acidity, nuts, butter, orange peel, superb balance and length, refined, some oak still showing, gorgeous length. Will easily last another ten years. 95

95 Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires

1995 Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millenaires;

Pale golden, tiny bubbles, yeasty apples, somewhat closed still, youthfull and even so, more open than my last bottle. Fresh acidity, riper on the palate, intense, yet elegant, beautiful balance, very long finish. 94

The glory of white Bordeaux

I'm not sure if I'm talking any sense tonight..... I've had a discussion lately with some people about scores on wines, how to rate accurately, or even be able to rate at all, to give any true reflection of the work, the passion, the believes, the, what to say, the absolute glory of great wine, and to be able in a short note, a tasting note, to be able to give a slight resemblance of the effort, the bewildering maze of flavors and impressions of a glass of wine, the "simple" glass of wine can hold.

This evening, I started out with three whites, all from Pessac, all Grand Cru Classe's, all so wonderful, and all still different. I'll try to give some description, without points, a new view, maybe more true, maybe not as nuanced? Maybe more? You tell me....

2008 Château Couhins, (Blanc) my glass now emptied, so I cannot go back and control, it's the impression it left in my brain, my memory on this day, on this exact time. I recall true elegance, lime and citrus with some floral overtones and some very elegant, still very intense minerals below, very balanced, very integrated, very pure, very beautiful, and such a beautiful finish to it. It will certainly age well, still it steels your heart already, a true beauty.

Then came 2008 Château Malartic Lagraviere. (Blanc) Here, more body, even more structure, maybe, it just feels that way, not much, but still noticeable, a bit more rough in the absolute best sense of the word, and still, very refined, again pure as anything can be, slightly more tropical tones to it, the citrus is more in the back on the flavor profile, but that only makes it a different style, doesn't it? Again a beautiful length and finish, and again a wine that will age gracefully.

The third wine for tonight, 2008 Château Smith Haut Lafitte, (again blanc) here there is more power, and this very well decanted sample is so "Burgundian" in style, like a Batard, with some butter, nuts and more fat on the body and structure, still this citrus and heavier smoky (Pessac) minerals, absolutely fantastic intensity and the most powerful of the three, but talking pure quality, it's not that much longer, still a very different expression and experience. The aftertaste is actually amazingly long come to think of it, so yes, it's definitely longer......minutes..... Only fools will not notice that. What an effort. Still, even if trying to explain some simple words on this wine, and on the above, it will not even be close to the actual feeling, the delight and the actual pleasure of enjoying them, in their different disguises. How can I ever get even close to give them the absolute, the praise they actually deserve......?

And still I try, like a fool, to put them in boxes, give them numbers, make them so much more simple than they are, to make myself feel more important, as some foolish judge with no clue at all, believing I actually know something. It all seems so amazing, our ability, my ability, to confuse, to sacrifice, not to understand, and believing that I know something.......

Tomorrow, another day, some new wines to give numbers, and put in boxes.

99 La Chapelle

1999 Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle;
Ruby, some development, not to complex aromas, meaty and pepper, good acidity, ripe tannins starting to disolve, harmonious, balanced, good length, but should be both more complex and longer. But I love that it's very elegant. 90

Was ok with leg of lamb, but not perfect.

07 Schlumberger

2007 Schlumberger Kessler Riesling Grand Cru;

Heavier style of Riesling, some roses and heavy minerality, honey and ripe, good acidity, a bit hollow mid palate, good length. 85

05 Loosen ET

2005 Dr.Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett;

Pale straw yellow, closed, schist's and lemon, some sweeter fruits and tropical with air. Pure and elegant, ok acidity, nice balance good length. 83

88 Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage

1988 Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage;

Towards golden with tiny bubbles. Maturing quicker now it seems, more oxidized notes than on a bottle two years back or so, still very elegant and lively, high acidity, quite lean body, focused and detailed with an impressive length. 93

95 Pontet-Canet

1995 Château Pontet-Canet;

Ruby, elegant Pauillac with some maturity, intense, almost leaping out of the bottle even, complex and very refined. Good acidity, ripe tannins starting to evolve, good fruit concentration and texture, showing some development, beautiful length. The best of several bottles I've tried. 93

96 Sassicaia

1996 Sassicaia;

Bright ruby, closed first, herbal, later on bell peppers and cassis, leather and pure fruit, elegant and not so ripe style. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, long finish, elegant Sassicaia. 92

71 Granbussia

1971 Aldo Conterno, Barolo Granbussia;

Ruby with orange rim, totally closed for me, high acidity, ripe tannins, lean, lacks fruit. 70

1949 Figeac

1949 Château Figeac;

Unfortunately cooked and somewhat dried out, badly stored, like all wines I've ever bought from www.lauritz.com in Denmark. Beware....

86 Beau-Sejour Bécot

1986 Château Beau-Sejour Bécot;

Ruby, brick rim, maturing nicely, feels fresher than the last bottle, more structured as well, nice texture, long, elegant, drinking beautifully now. 92

94 La Tour Haut-Brion

1994 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

Again a bit leaner, like the 97 drinking very well now, nice structure and texture, good length. Drink soon. 88

95 La Tour Haut-Brion

1995 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

Superb nose, complex, red berries and smoky minerals. Lovely balance, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, starting to drink very well. 92

97 La Tour Blanche

1997 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

This is very drinkable now, easy and joyful, slightly on the lean side body-wise, good length. 88

98 La Tour Haut-Brion

1998 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

Finally, the wood from the younger siblings are gone, here elegant fruit of the vintage shows well, refreshing, texture is elegant, quite complex, maturing beautifully, another display of the beautiful 98 Pessac's. 92

04 Tour Haut-Brion

2004 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

Again the woody nose, and again, much better palate, elegant fruit and texture, refreshing acidity, ripe tannins, very good length. 90

05 La Tour Haut-Brion

2005 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

Wood and vanilla notes up front, still a bit rough, beautiful fruit behind and terracotta minerality. Very nice texture, the barrel notes are not that obvious on the palate, balanced, long length. 91

07 Figeac

2007 Château Figeac;

Another wine that feels the slight leanness of the vintage, still fresh and elegant, nice acidity, refreshing red wine and a long finish. 91

07 Gloria

2007 Château Gloria;

An estate I'm not that familiar with, this one on the lean and classic side, nice texture, fresh acidity, ripe tannins and good length. 87

01 Rauzan-Segla

2001 Château Rauzan-Segla;

A bit extracted feel to the nose, much more elegant on the palate, elegant structure, still fresh and youthful, will do well with a few more years cellaring. 90

07 Boyd Cantenac

2007 Château Boyd Cantenac;

Young and lively, some herbs and bell peppers, slightly rustic, but in a more elegant Margaux style, good length. 87

01 Labegorce

2001 Château Labegorce;

Ruby, floral notes and cassis, starting leather, maturing nicely and starts to show, good acidity and ripe tannins, long finish. 89

06 Labegorce Zede

2006 Château Labegorce Zede;

Floral and dark berries, slightly on the ripe side, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, needs time still to show, good length. 88

05 Conseillante

2005 Château Conseillante;

Fruit driven, sweet morellos and raspberries, fresh acidity and ripe tannins, young and vibrant, long finish. 92

2000 Conseillante

2000 Château Conseillante;

Ruby, youthful, floral and raspberries, very elegant and complex. Gorgeous texture, pure, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very long length. Pure. 94

90 Conseillante in double magnum

1990 Château Conseillante;

(Double magnum) Bright ruby, leather, refined, fruity, that gorgeous raspberry touch that seems so typical for the estate, seductive, complex and just exceptional nose. Perfect balance, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, evolving beautifully, long length. 96

95 La Tour Haut-Brion

1995 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

Ruby, thin brick rim, maturing Pessac, terracotta, minerals, some smoke, ripe morellos, beautiful nose. Fresh acidity and ripe tannins, lovely texture, very long. Starting to drink very well indeed. 93

86 Beau-Sejour Bécot

1986 Château Beau-Sejour Bécot;

Ruby, brick rim, leather and red berries, an elegant St- Emilion, quite mature, cherries, leather, leaner body and could be longer, still a charmer. 89

06 Bernadotte

2006 Château Bernadotte;

A slightly more fruity style of Haut-Médoc, still fresh, elegant and pure, lighter texture and good length. Ripe tannins. 86

07 Citran

2007 Château Citran;

Typical Bordeaux nose with some paprika and cassis. Elegant texture, fresh acidity and ripe tannins, very good length. 87

05 Climens

2005 Château Climens;

Golden, pineapples, apricots and orange, good freshness and ripe, slightly oily texture, elegant style, but a bit short. 92

Magnum 1945 Château Conseillante

1945 Château La Conseillante;

(Magnum) Ruby, brick rim, quite some sediments. leaping out of the glass, raspberries, leather, fine herbs, red berries, chocolate, some dry leafy notes, very complex. Fresh acidity, perfect texture, mouthwatering, gorgeous balance, Burgundy elegance with Bordeaux' refined complexity, tannins almost gone, superb length. 97

Tasted at the chateau, very generous!

04 Alter Ego

2004 Alter Ego de Palmer;

(2nd Ch Palmer) Ruby, a bit closed, some cassis, vanilla, red berries and a touch of floral. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, good length. 88

61 Rausan-Segla

1961 Château Rausan-Segla;

A de Luze et Fils bottle, bottom neck fill, good cork. Ruby, thin rim. Some leather and cassis, cedar, elegant and tobacco. Good acidity, lean body, tannins gone, some metal but seems it's dissapearing with air, a good wine, but a bit short finish. 83

Broadbent: Penetrating bouquet; full-bodied, rich, long, still tannic. ****

Clearly this was not a perfect bottle.

78 Guigal

1978 Guigal Côtes du Rhône;

Misty ruby, brick rim. Some weak hints of leather and tomatoes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lacks fruit, short finish. 60

1981 Dr.Loosen WS Auslese

1981 Dr.Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese;

Pale golden, closed, some tropical notes, easy going. Yellow fruits, good acidity, fresh and lively, not that sweet anymore, otherwise little that show of the age, lacks some complexity, very nice, good length. 86

64 Aloxe-Corton

1964 Michel Couvreur, Aloxe-Corton;

Dull and pale ruby, touch of tea, nose gives little. OK acidity, more body with air, sweet and sour, few aromas, short. 75

1967 DRC GE

1967 Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Grands-Echezeaux;

Bottle 06354, fill 4 cm below cork. Brown colour, orange rim, stock of meat on the nose, getting worse by the second, totally gone!

57 Brane-Cantenac

1957 Château Brane-Cantenac;

Mid shoulder fill. Ruby with broad brick rim, dried up, too old.

64 Brane-Cantenac

1964 Château Brane-Cantenac;

Light ruby, broad brick rim, sweet tobacco, floral, hint of cedar, lean, good acidity, short and drying up. The best of three bottles. 50

Very uncertain storage, bought at Lauritz.com auction house, and most wines tried from that auction house have been poorly stored.

Greek Pinot

2006 Alfa Estate (KTHMA ALFA) Pinot Noir;

Bright ruby, raspberries and nestles on the nose, lean, acidity is not even close to integrated (acidified?) and no finish...... 40

1925 Château Brane-Cantenac

1925 Château Brane-Cantenac;

Calvet Bottle, states Médoc on the label. Mid shoulder fill, cork soaked. Ruby, thin orange rim. Earthy, wood, sweet tobacco, some metal, touch of leather, opens up quickly, teak. Lean body, medium acidity, drying finish. 56

Broadbent: No comment on this wine, but the vintage: Upstaged by the flanking of 24's and 26's and, despite abundance, ignored by the Bordeaux trade. Too old now.

Comte de Vogüe, Bourgogne Blanc

2006 Comte Georges de Vogüe, Bourgogne Blanc;

Pale lemon yellow, wax, floral notes, yellow fruits, minerals, flinty touch, vanilla, oak, yellow plums and tropical touch. Good acidity, butter and oak is on the high side, slightly alcoholic and warm in the finish, long length. 89

A very rare wine, that used to be called the Musigny Blanc.

04 Vin de Constance

2004 Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance;

Golden, sweet nose and grapey aromas, fresh muscat, vanilla, orange peel, elderflower, and rose-water. A bit fatty texture, quite a mouthful, fruity and a superb acidity, just making it's way through the texture and sweetness, like it was going through clouds, fresh and balanced, nice length. 90

98 Montrose

1998 Château Montrose;

Ruby, some vanilla, tobacco, paprika, stable and herbs, has some youthful toughness to it still. Medium body, more intense flavours, good acidity, ripe tannins, needs time to open, should be in the cellar another five years. 89 for now.

03 Kripta

2003 Agusti Torello, Kripta, Cava;

Straw yellow, tiny bubbles. Autolyze, minerals, ripe and oxidized apples, yellow plums. Gorgeous mousse and texture, good acidity, OK balance, lacks complexity but has style. 86

1964 Vega-Sicilia Unico

1964 Vega-Sicilia Unico;

A level fill, ruby with a thin orange rim. Mature and intense nose, tar, roses, tobacco, leather, cherries, some licorice, violets, figs, truffles, you need to write a book to be able to fully try to describe it. Perfect balance, beautiful acidity, tannins more or less gone, tender, erotic almost, seductive, complex and intense and the aftertaste lasts forever. It gave me goose-bumps on the first three sips. 100

95 Silex

1995 Didier Dagueneau Silex;

Towards golden, enormous minerality, some honey, melon, overripe yellow fruits and yellow plums. Good acidity, fresh and lively, some oxidized apples, resembling some old Champagne's. I like it better while a bit younger and fresher. 88

06 Raveneau Blanchots

2006 Raveneau, Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots;

Pale straw yellow, fresh, minerals, some citrus notes, touch of apples and lime, like a fresh rainy morning by the sea. Fatty texture and good acidity, butter, oysters, good but not splendid like normal.... 88

Not Spectacle, oaktacle.....

2004 Spectacle Vins, Espectacle, Montsant;

Ruby, some herbs, spices, mushrooms, then violets on the nose. Quite elegant attack, then a monster of oak, it coats the mouth in oak, and you won't get rid of it. 75

05 Clos Erasmus

2005 Clos Erasmus, Priorat;

Ruby, complex nose of coffee, dark berries, stone fruits, some alcohol, touch of LBV on the nose. Medium body, quite good acidity, ripe tannins, good fruit intensity, cherries, oak, again sweetness and some alcohol showing, not a balanced finish, not quite together. 86

69 Yquem

1969 Château d'Yquem;

Very top shoulder fill. Golden with amber hue, overripe strawberries, apricots, caramel, some cigar or sweet tobacco, floral notes in the back. Fresh acidity, some sweetness left, light body, quite elegant and nice balance, lacks some complexity and length. 87

1996 Yquem

1996 Château d'Yquem;

Golden, very closed, some botrytis, honey and quite heavy nose. Fatty texture, fresh acidity, marmalade and marzipan, this was much more closed than the more recent one. 92 Potential is higher)

05 Lafon Meursault

2005 Comte Lafon, Meursault;

Lemon yellow, lime, citrus, oak, butter, vanilla, minerals, apples, intense nose. Fresh acidity, fatty texture, balanced and refreshing finish, long length. 89

99 Batailley

1999 Château Batailley;

Ruby, garnet rim. Plums, ripe cherries, some prunes, hint of leather, not quite as evolved as the last bottle, and needed more air, but this wine is starting to drink perfectly now. Good acidity, ripe tannins, quite elegant, good balance, some anise in the finish, good length. 87

07 Clos des Papes

2007 Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape;

Deep ruby, pink rim, sweet morellos, coffee, chocolate, alcohol and anise. First almost spritzy, , that goes away, some herbal notes and alcohol (15%) that is very obvious on the palate, unbalanced and nums the tongue. 75

01 Lafaurie-Peyraguey

2001 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey;

Golden, some botrytis, apples, citrus, apricots, pineapples, fruit driven and elegant style. Fresh acidity, very refreshing and elegant texture, superb and long finish. Needs time, but a joy already. 90 (served blind)

96 Yquem

1996 Château d'Yquem;

(demi) Golden, botrytis, vanilla, orange marmalade, marzipan, pineapples, apricots, heavy, deep and complex. Fresh acidity, nice texture, kind of fat, slightly bitter touch mid palate, a mouthful, long length, superb. Still a baby. 93 (Served blind)

02 Monfortino

2002 Ciacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino;

Ruby with brick rim, tar, sweetish, radiator dust, warm car brakes, slightly cooked fruit, eucalyptus, mint. Fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins, good length. Points for texture rather than flavors. 88 (served blind)

07 Hermitage Sizeranne

2007 Chapoutier Hermitage Sizeranne;

Almost opaque, red berries, sweet, alcohol, spices, herbs and vegetal notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweet and hopeless to drink, not refreshing. 07 Rhône just feels more and more over done. 85 (Served blind)

2005 Guigal La Landonne

2005 Guigal Côte-Rotie La Landonne;

Deep ruby, almost opaque with pink rim. All kinds of things going on, dentist's office, anise, spices, pepper, sweet and dark fruits and some alcohol. Fresh acidity, layered and multi dimensional, much more easy to read than a Bordeaux, but also heavier with the sweetness and alcohol, beautiful fruit, very long finish. 92, another waste now, will get much better.

05 Mercier

2005 Château Mercier;

Ruby, ruby rim, dark berries, floral, perfumed, and alcoholic touch. Fresh acidity, ripe and high tannins, slightly watery finish. 85

04 VCC

2004 Château Vieux Château Certan;

Ruby, garnet rim. Dark berries and chocolate, enormously closed. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body, good freshness throughout, good length. This one did not show much of it's potential, and never had the chance to open. 93 for now. (Served Blind)

04 Pontet-Canet

2004 Château Pontet-Canet;

Ruby, garnet rim. Chocolate, mocha, perfumed, some alcohol notes. Good freshness, ripe tannins, good balance and length. Yet again, it seems the 04's at this stage are some of the most shut down of the Bordeaux vintages at the moment, this one never opened fully. 89 for now. (Served Blind)

04 Château Mouton Rothschild, forget it for ten years!

2004 Château Mouton Rothschild;

Ruby, tiny garnet rim. Leather, cassis, violets, chocolate, some floral notes, complex, cigars, perfumed, pencil hint. Elegant texture, some vanilla, fresh acidity and ripe tannins, beautiful mouth-feel, long finish. Forget it for ten or many more years. Needed a lot of time, and never really opened fully, still I nailed it blind. 91 for now.

Leroy falling apart....

2004 Leroy Vosne-Romanée;

Cloudy brick colour. It has never been that clear, but the nose have been fresh and vibrant, with huge amounts of fruit, now (I tasted it starting already last year) and with this bottle, a surprising decay has started very early. Almost a nature wine now, with some strange fruit in the back, and an unbalanced acidity in front. I'm not even rating it.

Disappointing Bienvenues

2006 Ramonet Bienvenues Batard Ramonet;

Light golden, closed for business on the nose, fresh acidity, some minerals, elegant texture, nothing much happening, never had the time to open unfortunately. But it showed a very long length, so hopefully one day.... For now, 87

05 Lequin Colin CM les Verges

2005 Lequin Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Verges;

Pale golden, again this sweetish notes (that seems to be the hallmark of this house), some minerals, soap and artificial notes. (This was written before I knew the exact wine). Good acidity, simple, some butter and popcorn, short. 85

Lequin Colin Bourgogne Blanc, awful!

2009 Lequin Colin Bourgogne Blanc;

Again served blind, and again, I would not even be on Chardonnay if I did not know it was supposed to be white Burgundy. It was sweet, simple, floral and tropical, short. Like some cheap Italian grown in to warm climate something...... 73

02 Boillot Meursault

2002 Henri Boillot, Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres;

Golden, fatty, butter, nuts, smoky, minerals and popcorn. Fresh acidity, minerals, kind of hollow mid palate, simple finish. 84

This wine was served blind, and even if I knew it would only be white Burgundy, this reminded me more of Sonoma.

96 Lanson Gold Label

1996 Lanson Gold Label;

Pale golden, tiny bubbles, minerals, intense, apples and citrus, vanilla. Beautiful acidity, pure, intense, nuts, brioch, flint, pure, lime and ripe lemons, very long finish. 92

Only a small Dame....

1998 Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame;

Pale golden, tiny bubbles, not very intense, some apples and minerals, fresh acidity, lemons, apples, short and acidic finish, other than that quite balanced. 83

Served blind, I was quite surprised, but, I have never been very impressed with the 98 vintage on the whole, and especially 98 La Grande Dame before......

1996 Salon

1996 Salon;

Pale golden, tiny bubbles, minerals, elegant, citrus, apples, refined, layered, quite intense, fantastic elegance in the mousse, perfect balance, superb acidity, incredibly refined texture, mouthwatering, citrus and mineraly finish, gorgeous length, lasts for minutes. 95