Clos de Vougeot tasting at Clos de Vougeot, March 2014. TN's has been published in Vin & Brennevin

2003 Anne Gros Clos de Vougeot
Ruby, garnet rim. Some prunes, figs. Scented, detailed and elegant nose, surprisingly evolved. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, figs and dades, sweet note to it, long and spicy finish. 92

2003 Daniel Rion Clos de Vougeot
Ruby. Scented, red berries, figs, elegant nose, nunaced and detailed. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, soft texture, figs and plums, fruity, more tannic finish, bit grippy, long. 91

2003 Arnoux-Lachaux Clos de Vougeot
Ruby, garnet rim. Spicy. Scented and detailed nose, more mature than the first two 03's in this flight. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, some oak tannins comes in and bites, bit short finish. 89

2002 Gérard Raphet Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby, brick rim. Figs, plums, spices, leaner nose, quite mature. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some unripe and fresh raspberries, elegant if leaner palate, fresh if not that complex, more youthful palate than jose, long and savory. 91

2002 Armelle & Bernard Rion Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby. Fruity, nuanced, mature nose, figs and prunes. Fresh acidity, soft tannins, figs and prunes, more easy going palate, fresh ig a bit short, drink within a few years. 88

2002 Jacques Prieur Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby. Red berries, some spices, minerals and still some oak on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively palate, fruity if grippy, long finish. Wait five more years. 92

2001 J. Grivot Clos de Vougeot
(Magnum) Ruby, thin garnet rim. Red berries, scented, elegant and nuanced nose, some spices, lovely. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, elegant, fresh if somewhat drier finish, bit oaky, has it got the fruit for it? 91

2000 Michel Gros Clos de Vougeot
(Magnum) Bright ruby. Red berries, slightly scented, less intense nose, some spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, lively and leaner palate, redcurrants, fresh finish, bit short. 89

2000 Mugneret- Gibourg Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby. Some figs, prunes, red berries note, ever so slightly spicy and floral nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, elegant and fresh, leaner body and texture, long finish. 91

1999 Albert Bichot Clos Frantin Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby. Spicy, vanilla, toast and some red berries hiding behind it all on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, leaner, fresh, redcurrants, bit oaky texture, bit short. 88

1999 Château de la Tour Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby, thin garnet rim. Subdued nose, red berries, spices, some floral notes and liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, fresh, dark berries and still a bit oaky. Falls off a bit in the finish, the fruit can't quite handle it. 91

1999 R. Dubois & Fils Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby. Red berries, scented, figs and slightly dusty nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fruitier palate if leaner, very mature, slightly dusty finish, drink soon. 88

1999 Joseph Drouhin Clos de Vougeot
Bright ruby, thin brick rim. Floral, scented, figs, prunes and elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, elegant and refreshing, detailed, little bit oaky still in the finish, long. 92

1998 Faiveley Clos de Vougeot
Ruby, thin brick rim. Figs, prunes, slightly floral, bit easy going nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, fresh, slightly biting finish, structured, long but also a bit drying. 90

1996 Méo-Camuzet Clos de Vougeot
(Magnum) Bright garnet. Red berries, elegant nose, maturing, minerals, ever so slightly floral. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, refreshing, detailed, nuanced, fresh, long and elegant finish. 94

1987 Gros Frère & Soeur Clos de Vougeot
(Magnum) Ruby, brick rim. Some figs, red berries, leather, black tea nose, mature. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity if leaner palate and body, almost scented in the mouth, fairly nuanced, bit lean but elegant finish. Drink while it gives this much pleasure. 91

87 Mouton

1987 Château Mouton Rothschild
Ruby, garnet rim. Leaner Pauillac nose, cedar, cigars, quite scented, light iodine note with more air. Fresh acidity, tannins soon gone, lighter palate, somewhat dry, nose flirts fairly but dyiung off on the palate. 88

90 Yquem, 87 Vega Sicilia, 05 Fourrier Clos st Jacques and much more

2012 Keller Riesling von der Fels
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, fruity nose. Freshish acidity, grapefruit and slightly bitter, easy going. Not fully together. 86

2002 Henriot Rosé Millesimé
Full blind. Towards light orange, small bubbles. Mature nose, nuts, apples, brioche, yeast and minerals, coffeebeans, bit burnt, layerd. Fresh acidity, lazy but elegant mousse, apples and nuts, bit lazy mid palate, fruitier finish, long. Mature with vintage in hand, drink soon. 90

2012 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling GG
Full blind. Towards lemon yellow. Apples, scented, fruity, floral notes, very light minerality on the nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded, apples, grapey, slight bitter note in finish, pears. Good length. Not fully integrated. 89

2006 Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Almost lemon yellow. Wax, honey, nuts, yellow fruits, smoke, rich nose. Medium acidity, lots of minerals, flinty, lemons, touch of wax and honey, lively flinty finish, mineralic. Long. Died off after fifty minutes. At best 93

2008 Benanti Pietramarina Bianco Superiore
Pale lemon yellow. Floral, rubber, fruity, minerals, exotic nose. Medium acidity, touch of nuts, touch of floral notes, touch of tropical fruits, cloying sweet flower notes, white lilies, more acidity in the finish. Acidified? 88

2012 Georg Mosbacher Forster Musenhang Riesling trocken
Lemon green colour. Scented, apples, some floral notes, light minerality on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, elegant and playful, light raspberry note in the finish, fresh. Good length. 89

2007 De Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
Double blind. Ruby with thin garnet rim. Scented, red berries, light floral note, strawberries, somewhat richer nose, slightly warm. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, some alcohol notes, slightly hollow, bit woody, bit warm finish. Very different from last bottle. 89

2006 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Double blind. Ruby, garnet rim. Rich, intense, massive, dried fruits, raisins and liquorice nose. Alcohol. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, coffee, big, alcoholich, rich and extracted, dried fruits, heavy. Unbalanced if you have your palate in order. 86

2008 Larrocel Quinta da Pellada Dão
Deep ruby. Rich, ripe, dark berries, plums, scented. Intense, slight alcohol note. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, rich and sweet, dark berries, ripe and sweet finish. Bit short. 88

2003 Flor de Pingus
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Rich nose, some floral and scented nose, cool liquorice but warmer blueberries nose. Layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, surprisingly lively for producer and vintage, finally some layeres in this one, long. 91

2003 Clos Mogador
Deep ruby. Rich, plums, massive, plums, blueberries, getting richer with air. Coffee. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rich, rounded, coffee and barrel spices, vanilla, bit biting texture and yet still fresher than expected for the vintage. Long. 90

1987 Vega Sicilia Unico
Double blind. Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, tobacco, some cassis, layered, nuanced, exotic, lovely nose. Violets. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner, fresh, lively, delicate, nuanced, lively, detailed, superb, very fresh, youthful very long. Exceptional length, minutes. Drink now. 98

1998 Gaja Langhe Sori Tildin
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Rich nose, figs, prunes, blackberries, morellos, vanilla, anise, spices, layered and complex nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, fresh, detailed, rich, tar and roses, rich, very long finish. 94

2005 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques
Ruby with thin garnet rim. Scented, detailed, fruity, strawberries, layered, detailed, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, rounded, richer palate, detailed, long. 94

2004 Bucaco Tinto Reservado
Ruby. Cassis, vanilla, slight leather note, some violets, scented, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, slight biting note, refreshing palate, fruity, lively finish, long. Juicy wine. 93

2010 Markus Molitor Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese***
Double blind. Golden, decanted for hours. Honey, marzipan, raisins, apples, intense if not too complex. Fresh acidity, lively, detailed, superb freshness, incredibly lively and pure, incredibly lively and intense, stunning. Incredible length. Nailed everything. 96

1990 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia
Double blind. Ruby, brick rim. Tar, roses, liquorice, cherries, intense nose. Slight floral high note. Fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins, rich, fruity, leaner, fresh, structured, intense, long if leaner finish. Nailed everything. 92

1990 Château d'Yquem
Golden, with amber hue and low neck fill. Rich, apricots, orange marmalade, intense, marzipan, scented, deeper nose, slight burnt sugar note. Fresh acidity, fruity, concentrated, rich and intense, the most lively yet, fresher and less burnt than most bottles, very long. 96

1996 Ornellaia
Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, anise, leather, some dark berries, little bit drying note. Slightly dusty. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, bit a bit drying, some wood notes, good length. 89

1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Speciale Martinenga
Ruby, with orange rim. Leather, some figs, dark notes, some cassis nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, ripe and fresh, leaner palate, drying a bit, savory, mature, drink now. 87

94 and 87 Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial

1994 Montecillo Gran Reserva Especial
Ruby, thin garnet rim. Anise, blueberries, some vanilla, coffee notes, spices and starting prunes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and lively, fruitier than many Gran Reserva's, long. 91

1987 Montecillo Gran Reserva Especial
(Magnum) Ruby with broad brick rim. Mature nose, leather, and somewhat earthy, leafy and prunes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, drying palate. 86

A bunch of Spanish wines tasted

2008 Muga Reserva:

Deep ruby. Dark fruit, spicy and blueberries nose, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fairly elegant, good length. 88

2005 Muga Reserva Especial:

(Magnum) Ruby. Lots of barrel notes and spices on the nose, overshadows the fruit. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, intense and again lots of barrels. 87

2006 Torre Muga:

Deep ruby. Rich, deep, lots of barrels and fruit on the kose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, intense, spicy and liquorice, good length. 89

2005 Muga Prado Enea:

Deep ruby. Liquorice, blueberries and spices nose, quite intense. Freshacidity, ripe tannins, fruity but biting barrel tannins on the palate, alcoholic finish. 88

2007 Vina Pomal Reserva:

Ruby. Scented and herbal nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and somewhat alcoholic finish, fruity. 86

2007 Portia Prima:

Deep ruby. Nuanced but also rich nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweetish fruit, liquorice finish, good length. A little bit all over the place, will it settle? 85-88

2008 Emilio Moro Malleolus:

Deep ruby. Rich nose, spicy, fruity and some alcohol nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit rich, warm finish. 87

2009 Cepa 21 Malabrigo:

Deep ruby. Sweetish and rich nose, liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 88

2006 Allende:

Ruby. Blueberries, liquorice and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, pure fruit, almost playful, spicy finish, good length. 89

2008 Condado de Haza:

Ruby. Scented, herbal and tight nose, closed. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, almost tight on yhe palate, wouldn't open in the time it was given. 88?

2006 Condado de Haza:

Ruby. Vanilla, herbal and blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresher palate, good length. 89

2009 Pesquera:

Deep ruby. Rich nose, spicy and a bit extracted feel to the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, warm feel, warm and ripe fruit. 87

2001 Alenza Gran Reserva:

Ruby. Scented, floral and blueberries nose, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fairly elegant, good length. 88

2005 Montecillo Gran Reserva:

Ruby. Lots of vanilla and some liquorice nose. A bit lazy acidity, ripe tannins, almost creamy texture, good length. 85

1987 Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial:

(Magnum) Ruby. Spicy, liquorice and some barrel notes, a touch of figs clings on. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more fruit on the palate, still lean, quite elegant palate, good length. 88

1981 Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial:

Garnet, brick rim. Tobacco, liquorice and more intense nose than last bottle, figs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, somewhat ripe fruit, elegant. The latest of several bottles over ten years, but also one of the most youthful. 88

Bonneau du Martray winemakers dinner at Bagatelle

It's not every day that a producer with such a reputation on white wines from Burgundy visits Norway, so I even cancelled a Bordeaux-vertical tasting to attend. And since some states that there is a premature oxidation issue with the wines from Bonneau du Martray, I was even more interested in going. Personally I have never felt this producer is one of the 'bad guys' of premox, I have only had some issues with a few bottles of 2002. A 1993, 1987, 2002 and 2005 this last few months have all been excellent.

I was offcourse also very curious about the new Bagatelle with some excellent new staff and a new direction. Some fine tuning (as a bit slow refill of water) and it will all be perfect. For the first time ever in a restaurant, my white tea at the end of the meal had been brewed at a correct temperature. They normally brew white and green tea in too hot water. There was a menu of 18 smaller or larger tastes rather than courses. First was simply calles Oysters-Apple and was an excellent oyster with a sweet freshness from a bit of apples, very delicate and nuanced. I will not go into details on all eighteen windows of taste as I write first and foremost on wine.

Third taste was Raw shrimp-Tomato and the shrimps from Iceland was extremely delicate and tender in flavour and texture and truly elegant and therefore slightly over run by the again very subtle tomato flavours. An elegant small dish even if I would have preffered it even more with the shrimps by itself. But I'm also a huge fan of shellfish with no messing about. At this stage we drank a glass of magic. 2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne with it's pale golden colour and elegant and superbly nuanced nose. Refined and layered, pure minerality, gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, you need to look carefully not to miss any of the remarkable number of details in this superb wine, it's poetic. Very long indeed. 96

The King Crab-Herbs was another delicious taste that I could easilly hav as a meal in itself, with a slight crunch and a more expressive flavour to it. Perfect with the 2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, again pale golden colour (it was a bit darker lighting than usual, so could be the light) and one notice the vintage difference right away. Even if mostly apples and minerals on the nose, it's richer and fruitier on the nose. Fresh acidity, elegant if riper and fatter, long. 92

We also had a small sandwich that I can't quite find out which one of the tastes in the menue it was, but that was probably the best sandwich I've tasted. The Scallops-Broccoli was a bit too much broccoli for the scallops to handle. The more exclusive and delicate scallops was a bit overwhelmed. Turning the dish upside down on the other hand made the scallops taste more.Somewhere along here we had 2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, pale lemon yellow, refreshing lemon cest and minerals nose, tight after the 09 and even if gorgeously refreshing, it lacks a bit besides the 2010. Fresh acidity, nuanced if a bit on stilts, apples, minerals and lemon finish. 94

There was a fantastic fish that I think is called Lemon Sole in English with a soft and gentle taste, very elegant and subtle, and my first. 2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, pale golden, minerals, apples, layered and a touch of nuts. Fresh acidity, richer fruit and slightly yellow fruity, lively and some butter. Have evolved since my last bottle about two years back, but less than expected. 92 Then came an excellent pork knuckle with a superb bearnaise sauce. That sauce was pure magic and a touch sweeter than most bearnaise sauces, and maybe a touch more spices in it as well. 1991 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, towards golden, fairly rich and nutty, leaner and sharper nose. Fresh acidity, slightly bitter and not quite together. Richer palate but also a bit hollow, good length. If I had any left this would be for the summer. 88

We had a few dishes that were on the smoky side for me, and a lot it seemed of Danish cheese, and personally I would have wished for something fresher at the end of the meal. The last white was 1987 Bonneau du Martray-Corton Charlemagne, pale golden, yellow plums and apples with a touch of oxidation (off the apples). Some nuts and minerals. Fresh acidity, elegant if a bit lean, some fruit stones comming that I can't recall from earlier bottles, leaner than last bottle but holding up remarkably well. 89

Last wine was the 1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton, bright red with garnet rim. Touch of maturing Pomerol nose at first with blueberries, plums and figs, but more red berries and scented with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body and slightly Corton rusticity with some vanilla showing up. Slightly herbal finish. 88 The meal was excellent on the whole, and so was the wine. This was a set menue and was not designed for the wines and that also made it two tastings side by side, and to be honest. For me it worked perfectly. It made it maybe even easier to focus on the nuances and flavours of the food and on the wines side by side. Looking forward to next visit to Bagatelle, and the next glass of Bonneau du Martray as well.

1987 Montecillo Gran Reserva Especial

1987 Montecillo Gran Reserva Especial;
(Magnum) Ruby with towards brick rim. Licorice, warm blueberries, vanilla, spices, cinamon. Fresh acidity, tannins almost gone, elegant, fairly mature, good length. 91

Mature La Mission and great Pibarnon

2004 Reignac, Y. et S. Vatelot Bordeaux Blanc;
Pale golden yellow, fat nose, some honey and apricots in the back, some minerals, oxidized apples, heavy nose. Big body, ok acidity, could be fresher, oak and vanilla and oak tannins, some spices from toasted barrels, quite complex. Long finish. 82


1987 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion;
Ruby with thin brick rim. Very elegant nose, liquorice, expensive leather, some coffee and cigars, bell pepper, herbs and minerals, only secondary and tertiary aromas, very mature. Acidity seems fresher than it is because of lean body, very elegant and balanced, good length. Impressive 87. 88


2001 Chateau de Pibarnon;
Deep ruby, ruby rim. Slightly of spices, dark berries, hints of coffee, perfumed tea, herbs and liquorice. Slight hint of volatility in a beautifull way. Clean fruit, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very elegant, fresh, almost Provence herbs towards finish, long aftertatse. 88

1987 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

1987 Chateau Mouton Rothschild;
A level fill, less than 1 cm from the cork. Cork soaked through. Ruby with wide brick rim. Not decanted. First wiff, pure wet dirt. Then a fantastic pure blackcurrant nose, some cedar and cigarbox comes along, with more air hints of laquer, hardwood floors, liquorice and coffee in the back. Some of the forest floor lingers on. After one hour some leather. Incredible nose. Ok acidity, tannins gone, pure fruit, light alcohol, so refreshing, such opulence and elegance. Lacks some complexity, but so elegant, quite a charmer and a great bottle of 1987. 86

SN Burgundsmaking Flight 2 Corton Charlemagne

2002 Bonneau Du Martray Corton Charlemagne;
Strågul, litt fat, vanilje, noe mineraler og ganske lukket. Purung, pen syre, fin balanse, forsiktig, flott mineralitet, lang finish. Trenger tid i kjelleren, må dekanteres. 90



1999 Juillot Corton Charlemagne;
Sitrongul, noe honning og modent langt bak. Pen syre, lett mineralsk, med mer luft svært kompleks, noe nøtter, snev av smør, modne epler, meget lang finish. Kan ligge lenge enda. 91



1987 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne;
Skikkelig sitrongul, moden nese, nøtter, smør, mineraler. Noe søtlig frukt og mineraler, grei syre som ikke helt følger opp, litt slapp mot slutten og kort finish. Hadde en vesentlig freshere flaske noen år tilbake. 84



2004 Lucien Le Moine Corton Charlemagne;
Lyst sitrongul, intens, endel fat uten at det blir ubehagelig, mye mineraler, litt fet. Fin syre, moden frukt og svært elegant og kompleks, nøtter, vanilje, smør, flott finish. 91