Some unpublished wines from Jan 2013

Brøttum 05.01. 13

1989 Château Laville Haut-Brion:
Fill one cm below excellent cork. Pale golden. Citrus, touch of orange marmalade, some honey and tropical fruits, touch of nuts that blows off after fifteen minutes. Scented, complex and layered. Fresh and lively acidity, mouthwatering as few, extreme minerality and waves upon waves, that with air gets much more into a whole, that is extremelly long. Needed an hour to be complete. One of the longest white wines I've ever tried. 100

2001 Reichsrat von Buhl Kirchenstück Forst Riesling Spätlese Trocken:
Pale lemon yellow. Somewhat floral over subdued citrus, apples and elegant flinty touch. Fresh and lively acidity, balanced for a Spätlese Trocken, elegant body long finish. 93

1953 Château Latour:Very top shoulder fill. Garnet with brick rim. Mature nose, prunes, figs, leather, scented, adding by the minute. Fresh acidity, tannins polished away, very mature and a bit dusty far back. Cedar, a bit beyond fully mature, but this bottle not that far. Still lots of dried fruits. Subtle evolution and evolvment in the glass, the dust blows away after about thirty minutes, and just layers of pure, but dried fruit. Superb wine to meditate by the fireplace, a bit to nuanced for food, mellow and round, long. Pure enjoyment over almost three hours. 94-95

2000 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild:
(2nd Ch. Mouton Rothschild) Deep ruby, garnet rim. Surprisingly youthful, almost barrel sample. Wakes up a bit after two hours in decanter, but still one of the youngest 2000's I've tasted in a long time. Some herbs, bell peppers, cassis, scented and youthful. Fresh acidity, almost edgy tannins, some cedar shows up, still a bit tight. Two and a half hour, it starts to open and feels more rounded. Good length and far too young. 90

2001 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche:
Pale golden. Rich nose, butter, nuts, minerals, evolved since last bottle about six months back. Almost smoky and bacon fat with a touch of citrus behind. Freshish acidity, rich palate, fuller than last bottle, a bit short. 91

2005 Georg Breuer Nonnenberg Riesling Auslese:
Golden. Honey, apricots, rich and deep nose. Heavy Riesling. Fresh acidity, lively and playful and quite a contrast to the rich body. Honey and almost waxy palate, good length. 92

2004 Château d'Yquem:
Golden. Honey, apricots, vanilla, pineapples and tropical fruits. Needed a few minutes to open. Fresh and lively acidity, somewhat richer and fuller than last bottle and a bit more vanilla, but the same pure fruit. Long. 94

Wine evening

2006 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles
Premox

1999 Pascale Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Blagny
Golden. Apples, citrus, light honey note, vanilla and minerals nose, tightens up with air. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, minerals, citrus, some nuts, apples, lemony finish, long. 94

2004 Château Léoville Poyferré
Ruby. Cassis, leather, vanilla, some cedar notes, fairly closed and even an hour in decanter didn't open it much. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, structured, fruity, cassis, leather, long but narrow finish, needs time. 93

2007 Montille Corton Clos de Roi
Bright ruby. Bright red fruits, tight but some floral notes and raspberries, light vanilla note nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, lively before lightly herbal finish, leaner, long. 91

1953 Château Cos d'Estournel
In neck fill, but to old, thoroughly dead.

1983 Château Branaire Ducru
Ruby, brick rim. Leather, violets, leaner nose, intense cedar and cigars, figs, black tea, some coffee and prunes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins letting go, fairly smooth, mint, lightly metallic to be picky but fading fairly soon. Good length. Very evolved for the vintage, but quite lovely.  88

2002 Comte Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
Bright ruby. Spicy, vanilla, pepper, cinamon, mint, red berries, minerals beneath, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries palate, tight, firm, detailed, spicy, leaner, long if narrow finish. Seems to have been a bit barrel happiness making it from my point of view. Long. 93

2009 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Nieschen GG
Pale golden. Apples, minerals, fruity nose, not that telling. Fresh acidity, lively, fruity, fresh, leaner, detailed, but lacks some complexity. Long if lean. 90

2003 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Beerenauslese
Golden. Apricots, pineapples, fruity, apples, cinnamon, minerals, intense nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, delicious, sweet, lively and playful, candied apples, cinamon and tropical fruits, long. 94

Vega-Sicilia tasting in Copenhagen earlier this year. 1922-1998

When a chance to taste several vintages of Vega-Sicilia arrives in the mailbox, you just jump right on it as it may never happen again. This cold winter evening vintages between 1998 and 1922 was being poured, a rare treat indeed. I was fortunate enough to taste several of the vintages from both bottles that was opened of each wine from two generous fellow tasters who shared to see the differences between bottles of same vintage. A very consistent tasting with a clear house style visible from the youngest to oldest. One of the most consistent tastings I've been to, only a recent Haut-Brion tasting stretching from 1918-1999 has been similarly consistent. This tasting was arranged by Bruun Rasmussen auction house in Denmark.

All bottles double decanted about one hour before serving.

1998 Alion
(Magnum) Deep ruby, floral, scented, dark berries, violets, spices and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rich but nuanced and rounded, fresh and lively, long. 90

1995 Vega-Sicilia Valbuena
Ruby, garnet rim. Tobacco, leather, cigars. Blueberries and anise nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rouned, heavier, lacks some nuances, slightly plump. 90

Vega-Sicilia Reserva Especial
90, 91 and 94 vintages in the blend. Ruby. Red berries, vanilla, spices, exotic, floral, rich and nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, liquorice, blueberries and darker fruits, nuanced, rich and long. 94

1998 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby. Youthful, blueberries, spices, anise and heavier liquorice nose, rich and detailed, getting into its stride. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and rounded, rich and still detailed, has sharpened up since last bottle, firmer, long. 94

1994 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby. Scented, blueberries, vanilla, spices, detailed, rich but subdued nose, blackberries, blueberries and floral notes, gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety, detailed, rounded and fresh, detailed and rich, layers and waves of flavours, has added since last bottle, stunning if youthful. 96

1983 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Blueberries, cedar, tobacco, anise, detailed nose, violets, leather, rich, nuanced and slightly sweet nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more prunes on the palate, figs, evolving, leaner palate, fresh and lively, lovely, ads more in the finish. 94

1983 Vega-Sicilia Unico
A second bottle shows a bit more fruit on the nose with a rounder and fuller body and palate. 94

1982 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, very thin brick rim. Rich nose, anise, leather, prunes, figs, some vanilla notes, detailed, spicy, lots of plums. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, sweet prunes and plums, figs, leather, anise, more biting and firmer finish, long. 93

1982 Vega-Sicilia Unico
A second bottle shows some more red berries and blueberries, bit less textured finish. 93

1979 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, brick rim. Liquorice, anise, figs, coffee, bit tight, slightly pruney nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, leaner palate, mature and some drier notes, mature and drink now. Good length. 89

1979 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Slightly fruitier and not quite as mature. 90

1975 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Anise, liquorice, figs, blueberries, sexy nose, layered, nuanced and detailed, rich, maturing nicely. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and ripe, fruity, rounded, refreshing, not quite as detailed, softer and easier palate, bit sweet, very long. 96

1975 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Very similar to the above bottle.

1974 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Tobacco, spices, mint, exotic nose, some figs, dark berries and leather, deep nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, fruity but narrower mid-palate and finish, long but not as exuberant as the 75. 95

1974 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Very similar bottle.

1973 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, thin brick rim. Less intense nose, some spices, prunes, figs and cheese notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fresh, lively, rounded, delicate but not that intense, nuanced. Tobacco-figs finish. 92

1973 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Very similar bottle.

1972 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, thin brick rim. Scented, prunes, liquorice, leather, dates, exotic nose, lovely. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, fresh and pruney palate, anise, sweet, very slight hung meat note, long. 92

1970 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Deepish ruby, thin brick rim. Rich nose, chocolate, blueberries, figs, leather, scented and layered, complex and refined nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, lively, nuanced, fruity, detailed, gorgeous nose, reminds me of 1970 Château Latour but with kinder texture, nuanced, rich and very long. 96

1970 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Somewhat less detailed bottle. 95

1968 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Liquorice, prunes, figs, evolved nose, leather, dark chocolate, bit leaner nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, softer tannins, fresh and elegant, red berries palate, nuanced and elegant, long finish. 92

1968 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Bit rounder and slightly more figs and somewhat fruitier finish. 93

1965 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Blueberries, figs, leather, anise, black tea, jasmine and violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively and leaner and slightly dry towards the finish, prunes palate, bit iodine behind, drink now bottle. 91

1960 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, brick rim. Cinnamon, spices, some prunes, spicy cake, Christmas spices nose. Fresh acidity, tannins letting go, fresh if not very fruity, but not to thin either, lingers on, refreshing and nuanced. 89

1953 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Bright ruby, brick rim. Figs, leather, prunes, liquorice in abundance, violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, fruity if leaner, dark berries and figs, long. 93

1953 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Bright ruby, brick rim. Blueberries, figs, leather, liquorice, exotic, floral and detailed nose, more youthful than last bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rounder palate, fruity, figs and plums, blueberries, long. 95

1948 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, brick rim. Scented, earthy, sous bois, figs, prunes, mature but sweet nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean, coffee, violets, fresh if leaner palate, refreshing, almost Burgundian finish. 90

1948 Vega-Sicilia Unico
A second bottle shows more blueberries and fruitier palate. 91

1922 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby core with brown-orange rim. Caramel, figs and spices, volatile, lean and metallic.

1922 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, orange rim. Plums, spices, violets and some dark berries clinging to their life. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, detailed if lean but lively, delicate, long and lean finish. 93

05 Lafon Montrachet, 1957 and 2008 Maison Leroy, 06 Coche-Dury, 53 Cheval Blanc and 89 Drouhin RSV

2005 Comte Lafon Montrachet:
Straw yellow. Starting out with honey, nuts and butter, with more air all kinds of citrus and some orange flowers as well, superb minerality, detailed. Fresh acidity, creamy texture, bit rich and nutty, intense, layered, slight caramelized apples note, some bitter notes, orange peel, smoky minerals, ever so sligjtly rough in the incredibly long finish, minutes. 97 *****

2008 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères:
Pale straw yellow. Apples, minerals, tight, some yellow fruits, detailed nose. Youthful and delicate. Fresh acidity, rounded, creamy texture, lemons, slightly tart, long if lean finish. 94 *****

2006 Coche-Dury Meursault:
Pale straw yellow. Apples, lemons, flinty minerals, orange blossoms, delicate and nuanced nose, intense. Fresh acidity, crisp, nuanced, rich, intense, smoky and flinty, almost sharp, long. 92 ****

1989 Joseph Drouhin Romanée-Saint-Vivant:
Served blind. Ruby with thin garnet rim. Slightly scented, plums and red berries, ripe, intense, just a touch of sous bois, minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, intense, lively but not brilliant on the palate, oak is a bit up there, long. Falls apart after an hour. 94 *****

1953 Château Cheval Blanc:
In neck fill. Earthy, anise, touch of floral notes comes and goes, lots of tobacco and coffee. Fresh acidity, drying tannins, leaner palate, minerals and tobacco finish, long if drying. 83 *

1957 Maison Leroy Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Porets:
Pale garnet with broad orange rim. Red berries, figs, redcurrants, leather, some sous bois, floral notes and a slight touch of spices. Fresh acidity, tannins soon gone, elegant and nuanced, lively and refreshing, delicate absolutely lovely. In Zalto Burgundy glass, the nose dissapears. 93 *****

Old Kloster Eberbach's and more

1998 Dr.Nägler Rüdesheimer Rottland Riesling Auslese:

Pale golden. Petroleum, apples and minerals nose. Freshish acidity, fruity but easy going, good length. 88

1995 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rotlack Kabinett Halbtrocken:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals and some orange blossoms on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe apples, fruity if leaner style, elegant and long. 90

1953 Kloster Eberbach Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg Riesling Auslese Cabinet:

Pale amber. Fruity, raisins and apples nose, orange marmalade. Stunning nose. Fresh acidity, elegant and lovely fruit, lovely smooth texture and elegant balance, long. Cabinet refers to special quality and that it has been stored in the Cabinet cellar. Not to the style of wine Kabinett. Four bottles tasted with remarkable little bottle variations. 94

1943 Kloster Eberbach Rüdesheimer Eiseninger Riesling Cabinet:

Again from the Cabinet cellar and not a Kabinett style of wine. Watery amber colour. Oxidized apples, slight petroleum and apricots stone on the nose. Fresh acidity, lean body, fresh but drying a bit, lean finish. Three bottles tried, one dryer than the two others. 85

Evening at Gruaud Larose

Upon arrival we entered into the vat rooms for a vertikal of the second label Serget de Gruaud Larose before some hors d'oeuvres and some excellent oysters. We also had a nice Champagne to go with the oysters but I have forgotten the house.


2010 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Deep ruby. Scented, berries, elegant and fruity nose.  Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, elegant and quite long. 88

2008 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Ruby. Fruity, elegant and quite layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit lean but quite elegant. 87

2006 Sarget de gruaud Larose:
Ruby, garnet rim. Fruity and elegant nose, starting figs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing, lovely finish. 86

2004 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Ruby with garnet rim. Scented, starting prunes, liquorice and cassis nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, quite elegant, good length. 86

2000 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Ruby with garnet rim. Scented. Elegant fruit, some figs, cassis and leather. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and fruity body, good length. 88

After this vertical we entered the château itself and some excellent magnums and double magnums with some considerable age greeted us.

2000 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Ruby, scented, vanilla, leather, complex and layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and lovely fruit, superb freshness to it, mouthwatering, drinking lovely even now but give it another ten years plus in the cellar for more mature notes. 95

1995 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Ruby with garnet rim. Scented and almost more youthful than the 2000 on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety and refreshing palate, superb texture, mouthwatering and long. 95

1988 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Double magnum) Ruby with garnet rim. Prunes, cassis, intense and layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, elegant and lively, a lovely '88, long. 93

1975 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Ruby with brick rim. Leather, prunes, figs, scented and mature nose. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant if leaner style, refreshing, long finish. 92

1953 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Bright ruby, garnet rim. Prunes, figs, liquorice, roses and a touch of VA that blew away quickly. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant and lively, refreshing, elegant and long. Lovely wine. 92

1953 Schloss Johannisberg TBA

1953 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese;
Deep amber. What a nose, raisins, dried apples, dried apricots, botrytis, blackberries, pineapples, almost towards licorice as well, extremelly layered and complex, revealing all kinds of subtle and more powerful aromas, quite intense. Fresh and marvelous acidity, playful and perfectly integrated into the texture and body. Viscous, yet light, stunning and extremelly long aftertaste. Tasted at Schloss Johannisberg, from their cellar. The aftertaste lasted well into the lunch after the tasting (drinking of this one). 98+

40 years of Dom Perignon, pizza wines!

There are few points to the ones who guess who's hiding behind the bottle.....

Pizza wine is a phenomenon occuring in a few select addresses, late at night, when a tasting has been going on for such length, that everyone starts to be hungry again. Pizza, as everyone knows, should be had with Italian wines, even if the level of the wines is somewhat unusual.

1955 Giacomo Conterno Barolo;
Pale garnet, orange rim, some sediments. Some anise, touch of tar, lean feel, red berries with a little air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more fruit, rougher and sligtly edgy texture. 89

1964 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva;
Bottle 5121. Stunning pale red, brick rim. Almond essence, VA, roses, perfumed, pear compott. Fresh acidity, dry tannins, lean. My last bottle was far better, and as always with Biondi, there can be huge bottle variations. 78

1964 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva;
As I saw that I hadn-t put out a tasting note on the last bottle, it's comming here. This bottle was had about a year back. Bright pale red, sediments. Roses, licorice, cherry stones, redcurrants, leather, quite intense and complex, layered. Palate never opens up fully, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant balance, doesn't quite live up to perfect bottles of the 75, long length. 93


1974 Roagna Giovanni & Alfredo, Barbaresco Riserva Vigneto Pajé;
Pale ruby, brick rim, leather and anise, high acidity, ripe tannins, dry and dusty palate, metallic, tired.

1953-1955 Gaja Barbaresco Veccia Riserva;
Bottle 110568. Gaja started putting the vintage on the bottle only in 1956. Some older bottles may have hand written vintage. This had medallions from 1953 on the label, so the vintage is narrowed down to somewhere between 1953 and 55 according to Rune Rake. Brown, red tint. Lots of sediments. Some hints of aromas here and ther, to old. That was the initial tasting note. After 20-30 minutes, redcurrants and hint of roses, still lean and sharp on the palate.

53 Château Doisy Daëne

1953 Château Doisy Daëne;

A level fill, superb bottle, reconditioned at the Château year ?? Golden with amber hue. Enormous complexity, creme brulée, apricots, caramel, dried fruits and prunes, difficult to describe correctly. Fresh acidity, almost dry now, beautiful texture and balance, very long finish. 92

Broadbent; Perfect peaches and cream, melted barley sugar bouquet 1986 ****