March news from Winetailor

2022 Niepoort Loureiro Giro Sol Docil

Kr. 189,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, fruit forward, elegant texture, good length. 86

 

2019 Niepoort Vinhas Velhas Bairrada Branco

Kr. 369,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, peach, minerals, some honey notes nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, elegant texture, good length. 88

 

2022 Niepoort Redoma Branco Reserva

Kr. 469,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some citrus, light vanilla and spices nose, some flinty notes. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, citrus, quite vibrant, elegant texture, long finish. 90

 

2022 Idda Bianco

Kr. 499,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Leaner nose of almonds and yellow fruits. Fresh acidity, apples, some vanilla, rounded, fruit forward and smooth, good length. 88

 

2022 Nikolaihof Im Weingebirge Grüner Veltliner Federspiel

Kr. 349,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some pears and light of spices nose. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, elegant texture, nuanced, fruit forward, good length. 88

 

2019 Nikolaihof vom Stein Riesling Smaragd

Kr. 579,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some pears, fruit driven nose, detailed, elegant. Fresh acidity, apples, elegant texture, detailed, bright, lovely candied fruits, supreme balance, stunning stuff! 93

 

2017 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Riesling Reserve

Kr. 699,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit forward, peach notes nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, elegant texture, long finish. 91

 

2021 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Inopia Blanc

Kr. 369,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, vanilla, spices, fruit driven, smoky notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some spices, creamy, apples and yellow fruits, good length. 89

 

2022 Roland Lavantureux Chablis Vieilles Vignes

Kr. 369,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit driven, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, nuanced, detailed, citrus, bright and nuanced, long. 90

 

2022 Roland Lavantureux Chablis Vauprin

Kr. 469,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some minerals and light vanilla notes nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, nuanced, detailed, elegant texture, lovely balance, long. So fine tuned. 91

 

2022 Roland Lavantureux Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey

Kr. 559,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some vanilla and citrus, tight nose. Fresh acidity, apples, elegant texture, fruit driven, nuanced, detailed, intense and long. 93

 

2021 Francois Gaunoux Meursault Clos des Meix Chavaux Monopole

Kr. 649,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit driven, some peach notes nose. Citrus. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, some citrus, fruit forward, elegant texture, good length. 89

 

2021 Francois Gaunoux Meursault Le Clos de Tavaux Monopole

Kr. 869,90

Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, apples, lemons, some spices and yellow fruits nose. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, minerals, elegant texture, nuanced, long finish. 90

 

2021 Juillot Rully les Thivaux

Kr. 359,90

Lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, fruit driven, some peach notes nose. Fresh acidity, yellow fruits, some butter and citrus, elegant. 88

 

2022 Borgeot Bourgogne Chardonnay

Kr. 289,90

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some vanilla notes, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, apples, some citrus, refreshing, good length. 87

 

2022 Borgeot Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derriere Chez Edouard Blanc

Kr. 649,90

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, some candied lemons, focused nose, especially for the vintage. Fresh acidity, apples, citrus, spices, some smoky notes, creamy, long finish. 90

 

2022 Borgeot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot

Kr. 959,90

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, some minerals, fruit driven nose, detailed. Fresh acidity, apples, lemons, citrus, spices, vanilla and spices, long finish. 91

 

2021 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Inopia Rouge

Kr. 369,90

Ruby. Herbs, anise, spices nose, liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, anise, leaner. 85

 

2021 Borgeot Santenay Vieilles Vignes

Kr. 369,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, some spices, nuanced nose. Scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, anise, some spices, refreshing, bit short. 87

 

2022 Juillot Mercurey Premier Cru Clos Tonnerre

Kr. 400,00

Bright ruby. Red berries, fruit forward, nuanced nose, detailed. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, spices, elegant texture, good length. 89

 

2022 Roland Lavantureux Fauconnes Bourgogne Epineuil

Kr. 449,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, spices, liquorice, fruit forward nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, red fruits, anise and spices, elegant texture, some vanilla spices. 88

 

2021 Francois Gaunoux Volnay 1 er Cru Les Clos des Chenes

Kr. 999,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, some spices, light of herbs nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, red fruits, lighter bodied, fruit forward, spices, good length. 89

 

2021 Francois Gaunoux Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Epenots

Kr. 1 099,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, floral, quite bright nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, leaner bodied, nuanced, refreshing, some herbs, long finish. Very different from the often rustic Grands Epenots that one encounters. Long finish. 90

 

2022 Niepoort Charme

Kr. 699,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, some spices, liquorice, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, bright, refreshing, elegant and nuanced, long finish. 92

 

2022 Il Falchetto Barbera d'Asti Pian Scorrone

Kr. 209,90 

Ruby. Blackberries, anise, some spices, liquorice notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, some spices, leaner finish. 87

 

2021 Idda Etna Rosso

Kr. 499,90 

Bright garnet. Red berries, anise, some spices, liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, some spices, leaner finish. 86

 

2021 Gaja Sito Moresco 

Kr. 579,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, strawberries, floral, scented nose, quite bright. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, anise, some spices, juicy, good length. 88

 

2021 Ceretto Barbera d'Alba Piana

Kr. 329,90

Bright ruby. Scented, red berries, some spices, rounded nose, elegant and relatively seductive for Barbera.Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, spices, liquorice, blackberries, dark fruits, juicy, good length. 88

 

2020 Ceretto Barbaresco

Kr. 649,90

Bright garnet. Cherries, anise, some spices, liquorice notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, liquorice, firmer, good length. 89

 

2020 Ceretto Barbaresco Asili

Kr. 1899,90

Bright ruby. Cherries, anise, some spices, liquorice notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, anise, some spices, juicy with texture, long. 93

 

2019 Ceretto Barolo

Kr. 729,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, cherries, floral, nuanced nose, detailed. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, some spices, liquorice, firmer, long finish. 91

 

2019 Ceretto Barolo Prapo

Kr. 1399,90

Bright ruby. Cherries, anise, spices, some liquorice notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, red and dark fruits, liquorice, detailed, long. 93

 

2017 Ceretto Barolo Brunate

Kr. 1399,90

Bright ruby. Cherries, anise, liquorice, floral, spices, detailed nose, quite bright. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, cherries, red fruits, some spices, nuanced, long finish. 93

 

2018 Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino

Kr. 849,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, some spices and liquorice notes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red fruits, anise, spices, liquorice, leaner finish, long. 90

 

2018 Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino Rennina

Kr. 2199,90

Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, some spices, liquorice nose, richer, riper nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cherries, anise, spices, darker furuits, structured, firmer, long. 93

 

2023 Il Falchetto Brachetto d'Acqui

Kr. 185,90 

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons, citrus nose, fresh and bright. Fresh acidity, sweet, refreshing, apples and peach, lovely Moscato. 87

 

2023 Il Falchetto Moscato d'Asti Tenuta del Fant

Kr. 189,90 

Garnet. Red berries nose, forest berries as well. Fresh acidity, apples, red berries, refreshing. Lovely Brachetto. 86

 

Niepoort tilbake til 1934

I fjor vant Dirk Niepoort en viktig kamp, kampen om Niepoort. Dirk Niepoort er en legende og en fanebærer for ikke bare Douro men hele Portugal. Han har jobbet hardt i all sin tid for vinene fra hjemtraktene og er en man hele bransjen kjenner. Men den viktigste kampen ble nylig vunnet, og den var på hjemmebane. Jeg husker et besøk hos Niepoort tilbake i 2009, oppe i Dourodalen, og man ante en viss gnisning mellom Dirk og søsteren Verena alt da. Men det eskalerte og Dirks mor og søster tok kontrollen over familieselskapet og Dirk ble frosset ut. Det var en stund han knapt hadde noe med familien eller vineriet å gjøre, hvor han blant annet hjalp sønnen med å sette opp Fio i Mosel sammen med Philip Kettern i Piesport. Fio lager glimrende riesling! Det skulle heldigvis vise seg at moren og søsteren til slutt skjønte at vineriet uten Dirk egentlig ikke var verd stort, dette gjorde seg ikke selv. 

 

Dirk fikk til slutt en avtale om å kjøpe ut familien og som han selv sier, må være litt flinkere til å selge vin enn før, for å få betalt dem ut. Men da jeg møtte ham for første gang på et par år i august i år (se forrige nummer) var det liten tvil om at han følte seg lettet over at familieproblemet var løst og at han igjen kunne holde fokus på vin. Dirk er en av de ganske få som lever vin. Om du er så heldig å havne på samme invitasjonsliste som Dirk på en middag kan du være sikker på at han har med noe spesielt. Og havner du på lunch eller middag hos Dirk kan det dukke opp vin fra hele verden. Dirk er vin på ut og innpust, noe svært få personer selv i bransjen er i samme grad. Det er en evig leting etter svar på de minste detaljer, og en evig jakt etter en ny oppdagelse, en ny nyanse, ny kunnskap, et bredere erfaringsgrunnlag. Det gjør Dirk til en utrolig spennende person å ha samtaler med, for ikke å si smake vin med. 

Vinhuset Niepoort ble grunnlagt I 1842 og er blant de yngre portvinshusene med berømmelse I dag. Det er femte generasjon som driver nå med Dirk, og hans eldste sønn har nå lyst til å ta del i produksjonen etter flere år med Fio i Mosel. Dirk, født i 1964 ble med faren fra 1987 og mener han ble kastet ut i det uten å kunne svømme. Dirk hadde ikke lært å lage vin av faren. Hans Daniel sønn bruker visstnok samme ordlyd mot sin far, ikke kast meg uti før jeg kan svømme, hvorpå Dirk parerer, jo, men du kan jo svømme, du har laget vin i Mosel i mange år alt. Uansett så har familien laget fremragende viner lenge, 1863 omtalt i forrige nummer er den dyreste portvinen noen gang solgt, og under her er det både 1934 og 1948 i fremragende vigør fortsatt. 1981 LBV smakt under fra Niepoorts private kjeller er i følge Dirk kanskje den beste LBV noen gang laget, og den var sublim.

Mange tenker at Late Bottled Vintage eller LBV er for tidlig konsum, spesielt i filtrert utgave, men den gang ei. I min private kjeller har jeg fortsatt igjen en flaske eller to med 2004 Niepoort LBV, men etter smakingen under skjønner jeg at jeg har vært altfor tidlig ute. Disse kan ligge fint i opp mot 35 år i de riktige årgangene og blir mer og mer fascinerende. Det var i det hele en storstilt smaking Dirk hadde lagt opp til i Oslo i november med tre rekker vin, som alle ville vært en sublim og interessant smaking hver for seg.

 Ja, egentlig fire rekker med vinene beskrevet tidligere i magasinet. LBV-smakingen var som Vinha Grande smakingen fra Casa Ferreirinha beskrevet annet sted i bladet enda mer fascinerende, for dette er viner alle har råd til, og som kan gi en utrolig spennende kjeller uten at man blir helt blakk. Man får en hel kasse av en av disse for prisen av én trofé flaske. Colheita og Garrafeirasmakingene er også to utrolige smakinger enkeltvis, og alle disse samlet ett sted fikk bransjefolk til å nærmest valfarte for å tilbringe en dag sammen med Dirk og hans utrolige kunnskap og utrolige rekke med viner. Spania og Portugal er noen av de mest dynamiske områdene i Europa for tiden, om du ikke likte en vin herfra for fem år siden betyr ikke det at du ikke liker den i dag, for utviklingen er rivende, og det meste går i en svært positiv retning. Og jeg skrev tidligere at vinene til Dirk aldri har vært bedre enn nå, og det gjennom en turbulent tid for Niepoort som vinhus. Jeg tenker at fremtiden ser enda lysere ut enn hva vi ser nå. Med vinene Daniel har vært med på i Mosel og retningen Dirk selv går i tror jeg Niepoort vil klatre enda høyere på vinhimmelen enn de alt er. 

Niepoort Dry White

Kr 89,90 demi

Bright amber. Dried fruits, almonds and peach nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, dried fruits, elegant, some light almonds, detailed, good length. 89

2015 Niepoort LBV

Kr 209,90

Ruby. Blackberries and spices, rich and fruity, liquorice notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, spices, liquorice, juicy, elegant texture, long. 90

2014 Niepoort LBV

Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries and spices, nuanced, intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruity, spices, blueberries, good length. 89

2008 Niepoort LBV

Ruby. Dark fruity, blackberries, some floral notes, elegant fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, blueberries and spices, elegant. 91

2008 Niepoort LBV

Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, blackberries, starting dates nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, anise, some spices, liquorice, touch of cork. 88

2007 Niepoort LBV

Ruby. Anise, dried fruits, some spices, liquorice nose, deeper. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, dark berries, some spices, liquorice, long. Finesse. 91

2003 Niepoort LBV

Ruby. Liquorice, anise, dark fruity, some spices, blackberries and floral motes nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, tobacco, structured, firmer, youthful texture still, long. 91

2001 Niepoort LBV

Ruby. Dried fruits, figs, dates, anise, spices, liquorice nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise, dried fruits, elegant and nuanced, long. 91

1992 Niepoort LBV

Garnet with ruby core. Dried fruits, oxidative, mature, earthy, dates nose.,fresh acidity, ripe tannins, figs, dried, lighter bodied, somewhat creamy, good length. 88

1984 Niepoort LBV 

Garnet with ruby core. Spices, cherries, exotic, flora, dried fruits nose, nuanced.  Fresh acidity, some tannins, anise, juicy, spices, exotic, beautiful complexity, nuanced and long. 92

1981 Niepoort LBV

Garnet. Dried fruits, pomegranate, strawberries, nuanced and floral nose. Fresh acidity, fruits, anise, elegant texture, smooth and rounded, beautiful balance, dried fruits, raspberries, long. 93

1975 Niepoort LBV

Bright pale garnet. Light nose, scented, figs and dates nose, nuanced, bright and tender. Fresh acidity, smooth and nuanced, light bodied, bright, long. 89

De nyeste årgangene her er tilgjengelige i tilleggsutvalget fra 1 desember.

2009 Niepoort Colheita 

Kr

Ruby, garnet rim. Dried fruits, anise, figs, dates, scented, blueberries, spices nose.fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dried fruits, elegant texture, liquorice, long. 93

2008 Niepoort Colheita 

Ruby, garnet rim. Dried fruits, scented, figs and dates, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, juicy, spices, liquorice, dried fruits, elegant, long. 92

2007 Niepoort Colheita 

Ruby, brick rim. Dried fruits, figs, dates, some tobacco, nuanced and detailed nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, beautiful balance, elegant, creamy yet lighter bodied, sublime balance, long. 95

2004 Niepoort Colheita 

Kr 499,90

Amber with ruby core. Dried fruits, nuanced, detailed, floral, elegant and nuanced nose, lighter. Fresh acidity, dried fruits, layered, nuanced, juicy, lovely balance, long. 93

1997 Niepoort Colheita 

Amber with garnet hue. Dried fruits, floral, sultanas, raisins, dates and figs nose, layered. Fresh acidity, dried, fruits, elegant body and texture, nuanced, long. Bit thin finish. 92

1987 Niepoort Colheita 

Amber. Dried fruits, cherry stones, faint floral note nose. Mature nose. Fresh acidity, dried fruits, nuts and spices, lighter bodied, anise, some creaminess, long. 91

1934 Niepoort Colheita 

Pris, kan spesialbestilles, rundt 9000,- per flaske.

Deep amber, golden rim. Dried fruits, molasses, dates, figs, spices, liquorice and faint of candied lemons nose, sultanas. Fresh acidity, dried fruits, some caramel, rich, intense, some molasses again on the palate, long. Richer than the bottle besides it, more together. 96

1934 Niepoort Colheita

Deem amber. Dried fruits, oxidative, dates, almonds, figs, caramel, rich and intense nose. Fresh acidity, intense, deep, rich, nuanced, elegant playfulness, long finish. 94

1987 Niepoort Garrafeira

Garnet. Dried fruits, anise, scented, figs and dates, some floral notes, nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, nuanced, detailed, lovely balance even if it dries a touch in the finish, long. 94

1983 Niepoort Garrafeira 

Bright garnet, amber rim. Scented, floral, nuanced, strawberries, detailed and nuanced nose, lovely. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, leaner bodied, some alcohol warmth and quite mature, some drying notes, dates and figs, long. 91

1977 Niepoort Garrafeira

Amber. Dried fruits, dates, figs, elegant nose if lighter, liquorice, nuanced. Fresh acidity, elegant nuanced, detailed, dried fruits, lovely playfulness, long finish. Seems both creamy and transparent at the same time, long. 93

1948 Niepoort Garrafeira 

Amber. Dried fruits, raisins, dates, figs, faint tobacco notes, sultanas, floral notes, rose hips, bergamot, just so many different things going on. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, nuanced, detailed, dried fruits, dates, raisins, layered, tobacco, spices, incredible depth and complexity, long. 97