Vega-Sicilia tasting in Copenhagen earlier this year. 1922-1998

When a chance to taste several vintages of Vega-Sicilia arrives in the mailbox, you just jump right on it as it may never happen again. This cold winter evening vintages between 1998 and 1922 was being poured, a rare treat indeed. I was fortunate enough to taste several of the vintages from both bottles that was opened of each wine from two generous fellow tasters who shared to see the differences between bottles of same vintage. A very consistent tasting with a clear house style visible from the youngest to oldest. One of the most consistent tastings I've been to, only a recent Haut-Brion tasting stretching from 1918-1999 has been similarly consistent. This tasting was arranged by Bruun Rasmussen auction house in Denmark.

All bottles double decanted about one hour before serving.

1998 Alion
(Magnum) Deep ruby, floral, scented, dark berries, violets, spices and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rich but nuanced and rounded, fresh and lively, long. 90

1995 Vega-Sicilia Valbuena
Ruby, garnet rim. Tobacco, leather, cigars. Blueberries and anise nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rouned, heavier, lacks some nuances, slightly plump. 90

Vega-Sicilia Reserva Especial
90, 91 and 94 vintages in the blend. Ruby. Red berries, vanilla, spices, exotic, floral, rich and nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, liquorice, blueberries and darker fruits, nuanced, rich and long. 94

1998 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby. Youthful, blueberries, spices, anise and heavier liquorice nose, rich and detailed, getting into its stride. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and rounded, rich and still detailed, has sharpened up since last bottle, firmer, long. 94

1994 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby. Scented, blueberries, vanilla, spices, detailed, rich but subdued nose, blackberries, blueberries and floral notes, gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety, detailed, rounded and fresh, detailed and rich, layers and waves of flavours, has added since last bottle, stunning if youthful. 96

1983 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Blueberries, cedar, tobacco, anise, detailed nose, violets, leather, rich, nuanced and slightly sweet nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more prunes on the palate, figs, evolving, leaner palate, fresh and lively, lovely, ads more in the finish. 94

1983 Vega-Sicilia Unico
A second bottle shows a bit more fruit on the nose with a rounder and fuller body and palate. 94

1982 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, very thin brick rim. Rich nose, anise, leather, prunes, figs, some vanilla notes, detailed, spicy, lots of plums. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, sweet prunes and plums, figs, leather, anise, more biting and firmer finish, long. 93

1982 Vega-Sicilia Unico
A second bottle shows some more red berries and blueberries, bit less textured finish. 93

1979 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, brick rim. Liquorice, anise, figs, coffee, bit tight, slightly pruney nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, leaner palate, mature and some drier notes, mature and drink now. Good length. 89

1979 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Slightly fruitier and not quite as mature. 90

1975 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Anise, liquorice, figs, blueberries, sexy nose, layered, nuanced and detailed, rich, maturing nicely. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and ripe, fruity, rounded, refreshing, not quite as detailed, softer and easier palate, bit sweet, very long. 96

1975 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Very similar to the above bottle.

1974 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Tobacco, spices, mint, exotic nose, some figs, dark berries and leather, deep nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, fruity but narrower mid-palate and finish, long but not as exuberant as the 75. 95

1974 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Very similar bottle.

1973 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, thin brick rim. Less intense nose, some spices, prunes, figs and cheese notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fresh, lively, rounded, delicate but not that intense, nuanced. Tobacco-figs finish. 92

1973 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Very similar bottle.

1972 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, thin brick rim. Scented, prunes, liquorice, leather, dates, exotic nose, lovely. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, fresh and pruney palate, anise, sweet, very slight hung meat note, long. 92

1970 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Deepish ruby, thin brick rim. Rich nose, chocolate, blueberries, figs, leather, scented and layered, complex and refined nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, lively, nuanced, fruity, detailed, gorgeous nose, reminds me of 1970 Château Latour but with kinder texture, nuanced, rich and very long. 96

1970 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Somewhat less detailed bottle. 95

1968 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Liquorice, prunes, figs, evolved nose, leather, dark chocolate, bit leaner nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, softer tannins, fresh and elegant, red berries palate, nuanced and elegant, long finish. 92

1968 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Bit rounder and slightly more figs and somewhat fruitier finish. 93

1965 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, garnet rim. Blueberries, figs, leather, anise, black tea, jasmine and violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively and leaner and slightly dry towards the finish, prunes palate, bit iodine behind, drink now bottle. 91

1960 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, brick rim. Cinnamon, spices, some prunes, spicy cake, Christmas spices nose. Fresh acidity, tannins letting go, fresh if not very fruity, but not to thin either, lingers on, refreshing and nuanced. 89

1953 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Bright ruby, brick rim. Figs, leather, prunes, liquorice in abundance, violets nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, fruity if leaner, dark berries and figs, long. 93

1953 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Bright ruby, brick rim. Blueberries, figs, leather, liquorice, exotic, floral and detailed nose, more youthful than last bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rounder palate, fruity, figs and plums, blueberries, long. 95

1948 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, brick rim. Scented, earthy, sous bois, figs, prunes, mature but sweet nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean, coffee, violets, fresh if leaner palate, refreshing, almost Burgundian finish. 90

1948 Vega-Sicilia Unico
A second bottle shows more blueberries and fruitier palate. 91

1922 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby core with brown-orange rim. Caramel, figs and spices, volatile, lean and metallic.

1922 Vega-Sicilia Unico
Ruby, orange rim. Plums, spices, violets and some dark berries clinging to their life. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, detailed if lean but lively, delicate, long and lean finish. 93

Col d'Orcia tasting, 1968-2011

2011 Col d'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino
Bright ruby. Red berries, fruity, some liquorice, red berries and plums touch. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, anise, slight herbal note, little bit cooked. 86

2010 Col d'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino Banditella
Bright ruby. Red berries, anise, cherries, slight herbal touch nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, refreshing, good length. 88

2008 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino
Bright ruby. Red berries, some floral notes, anise, pure nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fresh, lovely, little bit warmer fruit on the palate, ever so slightly jammy, long. 90

2007 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino
Bright ruby. Red berries, slight floral note, anise, slightly spicy and some minerals on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, fresh, cherries, long finish. 91

2006 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino
(Magnum) Bright ruby. Red berries, scented, some morellos, leather touch, some liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, refreshing, quite elegant and detailed, long if a bit lean finish. 92

1997 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino
Bright ruby, very thin garnet rim. Leather, red berries, cherries, anise, slight chocolate touch nose. Maturing. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, fresh, quite evolved, started out a little bit short but got longer in the glass, long. 90

1977 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Bright ruby, orange rim. Leather, anise, figs, prunes, scented, some cherries, flirting if a bit subdued. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, refreshing, detailed, elegant, structured, red berries note, long finish. 94

1968 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Bright ruby with orange hue and orange rim. Leather, anise, figs, prunes, scented, ever so slightly dusty nose. Fresh acidity, tannins ripe and soon gone, fruitier palate, rounded, refreshing, mature, red berries, figs and anise, long. 93

2006 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento
(Magnum) Bright ruby. Floral, delicate, red berries nose, rounded, elegant and scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, fruity, rounded, refreshing, detailed, long. 93

1995 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento
(Magnum) Bright ruby, garnet rim. Floral, elegant nose, nuanced, leather, red and some darker berries, scented, some spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, refreshing, elegant if a bit narrow mid palate, long. 92

2010 Col d'Orcia Nearco
Ruby. Fruity, cassis, spices, rich and ripe nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, bit sweet, warm finish. 87

2010 Col d'Orcia Olmaia
Ruby. Cassis, dark fruits, slightly scented, vanilla, ripe fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, ripe and rich, slightly high alcohol and a bit showy, lacks refinement and complexity, good length, bit warm finish. 88

2010 Col d'Orcia Pascena Moscadello di Montalcino
Pale golden. Floral, tropical, fresh grapes and slightly soapy nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded, fresh, failry detailed, a slight floral and caramel note in the finish, long. 90

1968 CVNE Imperial

1968 CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva;

Pale brick, gives me little on the nose, fresh acidity, nothing much after that......

1968 Vega Sicilia Unico

1968 Vega Sicilia Unico;

A level fill, up in the neck, ruby with thin brick rim. Layered, seductive, flirting, amazing nose, superb palate, stunning balance, lively, vibrant, and very long length. 95 (But, it starts to fall apart after about 25-35 minutes in the glass and should be enjoyed while it has all it's layers and nuances. Invite guests and let them have one glass each).

1968 Castillo Ygay

1968 Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva;

Ruby core, orange rim, lots of sediments. Leather, anise, floral, red berries. Fresh acidity, tannins, gone, tastes like and old and drying Sauternes with apricots and peach stones, even raisins in the finish, long length. 92-93

Interesting to see how linear the style of these wines have been for four decades.

1968 Biondi Santi Riserva

1968 Biondi Santi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva;
Bttl 00317. Brick with orange rim. Oysters and salty minerals, leather, redcurrants and touch of cherries. Floral and more and more complexity with air. Great acidity, ripe tannins, pure, elegant, great balance, fantastic length. Getting a bit lean in the finish. 93

68 Fortia

1968 Chateau Fortia, Chateauneuf du Pape;
Brick, A level fill, no sediments. Ripe, redcurrants, anis and cherries. Ok acidity, no tannins, tired but holding on. 68

68 Cheval, lost for words......

1968 Chateau Cheval Blanc;
(demi) Ruby with brick rim. Cork mostly dry, A level fill, half centimeter bellow cork. Developing, roses, floral, perfume, figs, prunes, but it manages to feel so young, even with the developed aromas, and this one is even more youthfull in it's style than the other bottle. Lowish acidity, but fresh, seductively soft tannins, extremelly well balanced, silky texture gone over to another dimention, increadible long length, minerals, dried apricots, actually giving of aromas reminding me of a fantastic old sauternes, together with the dry notes of cigars and leather, gracefull, youthfull, livelly and vibrant, absolutelly astonishing, even the 95 Haut-Brion I have next to this bottle doesn't stand a chance. Sic transit gloria mundi. You will all think I'm crazy. Tears of an angel? 100

Demi, 68 Cheval Blanc

1968 Chateau Cheval-Blanc;

(demi) Bright ruby with orange rim, A level fill, soaked cork. Prunes, figs, dried fruits, leather, leaves, forest floor, earth, roses, cigars and coffee. Very nice and complex nose, some tannins still, fresh acidity, good balance and very elegant, if a bit lean, nice texture. Surpricingly good for the vintage, and in half bottle. 92

68 Mouton

2007 Max Ferd. Richter, Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling Spätlese;
Pale straw yellow, pure apple, very ripe, hints of honney, pineapples and pear, very elegant. Acidity kind of packed in, not very noticable but does the job, great elegance and balance, good finish but not the most complex. 85

1968 Chateau Mouton Rothschild;
Fill on C level, cork soaked, garnet with orange rim. Light, some cigars and floral otes, then dental office, fluor and slightly metallic, then green apples, subtle changes all the time, some red berries clinging on for their bare life. No tannins, ok acidity, no length. 65

Valentini Montepulciano

1997 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo;
Corked

1995 Valentini, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo;
Deep garnet, thin garnet rim. Pepper, burnt coffee beans, hints of herbs, sweetish heavy dark fruits, high acidity, elegant and heavy at the same time, sweet berries, ballanced, complex and very long finish. 88 (Thanks to Michael)

1983 Clappe Cornas;
Oxidized

1968 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo;
Ruby with orange rim, tar, roses, cherries, liquorice, fresh acidity, some tannins still, very elegant, a bit lean body, but the complexity and length is great. Very mature, drink now. 91

Visit at D'Oliveiras, Two Boal's

1968 D'Oliveiras Boal;
Deep amber, very young actually, concentrated, some coffee, citrus, nuts, extreme acidity, very refreshing, (rest of note lost!)

1903 D'Oliveiras Boal;
Deep amber, very oxidized style, raisins, citrus, orange marmalade, figs, almonds, complex and intence, but not too elegant, a bit heavy body, big. Very long finish.93