Haut-Brion Vertical tasting last year.

2001 Château Haut-Brion blanc
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, honey, detailed, light tropical note, scented and light floral note nose. Intense. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded, fleshy, somewhat sweet tropical note, ripe and fruity, quite intense, long. Ads and ads with air. 95

1989 Château Laville Haut-Brion
Served blind. Towards golden. Wax, peach, minerals, almonds, honey, floral, light apricots note, layered. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, refreshing, detailed, balances between sweet tropical notes and salty minerals, elegant and refined, long. With answer in hand a good but not perfect bottle. 94

1918 Château Haut-Brion
Upper shoulder fill, château bottled. Bright ruby, orange rim. Figs, leather, minerals, terracotta, earthy, prunes, layered nose. Superb nose, magic. Fresh acidity, few tannins, fresh, detailed, prunes, leaner palate, mulberries and raspberries, elegant, almost Corton like feel to it today, long. 94 100 on pleasure.

1945 Château Haut-Brion
Upper shoulder fill. Ruby, thin orange rim. Intense chocolate nose, red berries, minerals, pepper, spices, floral, prunes, terracotta nose, layered. Cherries and leather. More and more intense with air, more and more layers. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, cinamon, chocolate, tea, figs, cassis, detailed, refreshing, sweet and sour, power, long, very long. 98

1947 Château Haut-Brion
Top shoulder fill, deep ruby, thin brick rim. Intense, scented, plums, figs, highly scented, floral, jasmin, mint, dried dark fruits, rich nose, raspberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, detailed, rich and rounded, intense, tannic with loads of fruit to back it still, refreshing and detailed finish, very long. 99

1948 Château Haut-Brion
Upper shoulder fill, deep ruby with thin orange rim. Scented, leaner, figs, minerals, terracotta, smoky, prunes, quite intense. Stacks up well after the others. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, sweet and sour, detailed, lots of cherrirs, anise and raspberries, leather and prunes finish, slightly drying finish to be picky. 95

1959 Château Haut-Brion
Top shoulder fill, ruby, brick rim. Scented, cigars, cedar, minerals, jasmin, mulberries, figs, prunes, detailed and intense and seductive nose. Layered and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, lively, detailed, rich, intense and fruity, ripe fruits, figs, leather, spices, exotic, long finish. 98

1961 Château Haut-Brion
In neck fill, deep ruby, thin brick rim. Tight nose, dark chocolate, black tea, intense and heavy nose, almost alcohol on the nose, Port like nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich and fruity but lacks nuances, lacks details, somewhat off bottle, maybe not the best storage. After ten minutes it deteriorates quickly.

1966 Château Haut-Brion
Low neck fill, deep ruby, thin garnet rim. Dark fruits but also some glue notes, dry and short, off bottle.

1970 Château Haut-Brion
Top shoulder fill, ruby with slight orange hue. Intense, dark fruits, scented, liquorice, leather and figs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner, fresh but leaner, slightly dry tobacco, cherries and figs finish. 88

1975 Château Haut-Brion
Slightly cloudy dark ruby, thin orange rim. Tobacco, rose hips, tired nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner palate, slight iodine.

1978 Château Haut-Brion
In neck fill, pale ruby, orange rim. Oxidised.

1979 Château Haut-Brion
In neck fill, ruby, thin garnet rim. Scented, red berries, cassis, elegant nose, some blueberries and minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity if leaner and towards thin, the fruit is more cherries and figs, good length. 89

1981 Château Haut-Brion
In neck fill, bright ruby, brick rim. Scented, red and darker berries, figs, leather nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner palate, some would say hollow, leather and figs, bit short. 87

1982 Château Haut-Brion
Ruby. Ripe, rich, scented, plums, leather, tobacco, intense, layered, detailed and complex, lovely nose, flirting, very mineral with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rich, fresh, detailed, ripe, plums, still structured, quite youthful, long finish. 97

1983 Château Haut-Brion
Ruby, garnet rim. Cassis, leather, slight fig note, red berries, detailed and nuanced, scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, fruity, nuanced and detailed, elegant and refreshing, little bit short in this company. 91

1985 Château Haut-Brion
Ruby, garnet rim. Dark fruits, opening up, quite shut first but gets scented and flirting, but the tightest '85 HB I've tasted. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, intense, detailed, refreshing, red berries, scented and elegant, lovely balance, needs time to open, long. A bottle going back and forth between marvellous and tight and astringent. 95

1986 Château Haut-Brion
Corked

1988 Château Haut-Brion
Deep ruby. Cassis, figs, leather, ever so slight bell peppers note, quite rich '88 nose, cooler fruits. Spicy and chocolate with air. More and more scented with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, firm, structured, leaner cassis fruits, leather, detailed, fresh, elegant, long. 93

1989 Château Haut-Brion
Deepish ruby, garnet rim. Highly scented and massive intensity, rich, ripe, layered, red and darker fruits, detailed, leather, plums, tobacco, superb nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweet ripe red fruits, darker berries, layered, detailed, nuanced, superb and hedonistic, impossible to describe, stunning length. 100

1990 Château Haut-Brion
Ruby. Scented, red and darker berries, nuanced, floral, intense and layered, leaping out of the glass. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, lively and detailed, nuanced, elegant and long. 97

1995 Château Haut-Brion
Deep ruby. Scented, ripe, cassis, blueberries, anise, slight tobacco note, layered and detailed, intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich and fruity, layered, intense, plums and blueberries, but a bit lean finish, long. 94

1996 Château Haut-Brion
Deep ruby. Coffee, dark chocolate, cassis, blueberries, plums and tobacco nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, if tight and somewhat rustic, slightly edgy, bit dry finish. Falls apart with air. Faulty bottle.

1998 Château Haut-Brion
Deep ruby. Scented, ripe fruits, detailed, nuanced, fruity, plums, floral and minerals underneath. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, nuanced, detailed and refreshing, fleshy, long. 96

1999 Château Haut-Brion
Deep ruby. Rich, jammy and fruity, ripe and intense, vanilla, very youthful beside it's one year older bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, fruity and ripe, red-and blueberries finish. Smooth. 93


1978 Domaine de La Passion Haut-Brion
Ruby with orange rim. Cassis, rose hips, cherries, wood polish and bell peppers nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner, bit dry and sweet and sour, good length. 88

05, 81 and 64 Bertani Amarone

2005 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico:
Deep ruby. Leather, anise, red berries nose, quite intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner style for Amarone, and it suits it perfectly, leathery and anise finish, long. 90

1981 Bertani Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone Classico Superiore:
Ruby, garnet rim. Leather, anise, figs and prunes nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, tannins softens, fresh feel to it, again this leathery and liquorice finish, long. 92

1964 Bertani Recioto della valpolicella Amarone Classico Superiore:
Bright ruby, orange rim. Anise, leather, figs, cherries, floral and nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, still some tannins, leather and cherries finish, ever so slightly bitter. Long. 92

Six from Madeira

1989 D'Oliveiras Sercial:

Orange, golden hue. Nuts, dried fruits, touch of caramel on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, lean palate, refreshing, quite crisp, long. Bit burnt finish. 88

1981 D'Oliveiras Verdelho:

Amber, thin golden rim. Nuts, dried fruits, apricots nose. Fresh acidity, refreshing and fruity, good length. 89

1973 D'Oliveiras Verdelho:

Darker amber, thin golden hue. Intense, nuts, dried and fresher apricots, rich nose. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, mouthwatering and playful, long finish. 91

1988 D'Oliveiras Terrantez:

Bright amber. I wonder if this one is slightly corked, subdued nuts, not that intense and seems to lack fruit as well. Faint cardboard touch. 

1971 D'Oliveiras Terrantez:

Bright amber. Intense nose, dried fruits, smoky, almost like Islay, roasted nuts, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, refreshing and elegant palate, mouthwatering, fruity, long finish. 92

1989 D'Oliveiras Malvazia:

Amber, golden rim. Dried fruits, apricots, nuts, slight caramel note, burnt sugar nose. Fresh acidity, refreshing and elegant, quite playful, rounded for a young Madeira, long. 92

1981 Barbeito Verdelho

1981 Barbeito Verdelho Frasqueira:
Orange-amber, yellow rim. Quite oxidated style, caramel, nuts, some spices and fruit cake nose. High acidity, a bit raw structure, alcohol is showing, fine fruit behind, feels a bit over done, a bit made. 86

A bunch of Spanish wines tasted

2008 Muga Reserva:

Deep ruby. Dark fruit, spicy and blueberries nose, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fairly elegant, good length. 88

2005 Muga Reserva Especial:

(Magnum) Ruby. Lots of barrel notes and spices on the nose, overshadows the fruit. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, intense and again lots of barrels. 87

2006 Torre Muga:

Deep ruby. Rich, deep, lots of barrels and fruit on the kose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, intense, spicy and liquorice, good length. 89

2005 Muga Prado Enea:

Deep ruby. Liquorice, blueberries and spices nose, quite intense. Freshacidity, ripe tannins, fruity but biting barrel tannins on the palate, alcoholic finish. 88

2007 Vina Pomal Reserva:

Ruby. Scented and herbal nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and somewhat alcoholic finish, fruity. 86

2007 Portia Prima:

Deep ruby. Nuanced but also rich nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweetish fruit, liquorice finish, good length. A little bit all over the place, will it settle? 85-88

2008 Emilio Moro Malleolus:

Deep ruby. Rich nose, spicy, fruity and some alcohol nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit rich, warm finish. 87

2009 Cepa 21 Malabrigo:

Deep ruby. Sweetish and rich nose, liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 88

2006 Allende:

Ruby. Blueberries, liquorice and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, pure fruit, almost playful, spicy finish, good length. 89

2008 Condado de Haza:

Ruby. Scented, herbal and tight nose, closed. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, almost tight on yhe palate, wouldn't open in the time it was given. 88?

2006 Condado de Haza:

Ruby. Vanilla, herbal and blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresher palate, good length. 89

2009 Pesquera:

Deep ruby. Rich nose, spicy and a bit extracted feel to the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, warm feel, warm and ripe fruit. 87

2001 Alenza Gran Reserva:

Ruby. Scented, floral and blueberries nose, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fairly elegant, good length. 88

2005 Montecillo Gran Reserva:

Ruby. Lots of vanilla and some liquorice nose. A bit lazy acidity, ripe tannins, almost creamy texture, good length. 85

1987 Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial:

(Magnum) Ruby. Spicy, liquorice and some barrel notes, a touch of figs clings on. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more fruit on the palate, still lean, quite elegant palate, good length. 88

1981 Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial:

Garnet, brick rim. Tobacco, liquorice and more intense nose than last bottle, figs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, somewhat ripe fruit, elegant. The latest of several bottles over ten years, but also one of the most youthful. 88

Château Palmer vertical tasting 1959-2004

A bit soaked corks for the age of the wines compared to other estates and bottles that I regularly open is a bit of a worry. All bottles have been sourced from different cellars and have lived different lives. 

2004 Château Palmer:

Ruby. Scented, blueberries, cassis, a touch of vanilla nose, young and fresh. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leather and a bit smoky style, slightly rough oak at this stage, good length. 89

1998 Château Palmer:

Ruby. Scented, floral, fruity, elegant and refined nose. Complex and layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, elegant body, textured backbone, long. 91

1996 Château Palmer:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, minerals, cassis, blueberries, layered and complex nose, refined, some cedar. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and quite structured backbone, long. 93+

1995 Château Palmer:

Bright ruby. Fruity, floral, cassis and blueberries. Scented and layered. Ads with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and elegant, lively, long. Some felt quite strongly that this bottle was corked but even after six hours in the glass, there was no trace of any cork taint, and even the most bombastic tasters went silence. 94

1990 Château Palmer:

Bright ruby. Scented, fruity, layered, nuanced and elegant, refined nose. Mint and spicy and touch of Christmas spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely fruit and balance, richer and somewhat exotic, refined and very long. 96

1989 Château Palmer:

Bright ruby, garnet rim. Leather, cedar, floral, very subdued and elegant nose, layered and a bit light on it's feet, gorgeous nose. Slightly heavier with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and leaner body, still quite intense, leather, tobacco and still a slight tannic grip in the finish. Long. 94+

1988 Château Palmer:

Lower neck fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Some floral notes over figs, anise, plums and blueberries. Slightly herbal and scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, playful and elegant, mouthwatering, long, but drops off suddenly.  91+

1986 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, very thin brick rim. Deeper nose, some plums, cherries, scented and intense nose. Layered and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively, quite playful and refreshing, towards mouthwatering, very long. But looses something with air. Becomes shorter. 95

1985 Château Palmer:

Bottom neck fill. Bright ruby, thin brick rim. Intense and scented nose, floral and layered, cassis and leather, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively, lovely fruit and texture, very elegant but a little bit short. 93

1983 Château Palmer: 

Lower neck fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Scented, cherries, touch of figs and fruit stones. Minty touch. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively and mouthwatering, slightly dry palate, long. 92

1982 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, fruity, floral, nuanced and layered.   Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and very elegant, lively and lovely balance, long. 94

1981 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Garnet, thin brick rim. Some leather, lean nose. Fresh fruit, slightly dry, easy going but refreshing. 83

1979 Château Palmer:

Very top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Mature nose of plums, anise, leather and tobacco. Slightly floral with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and plummy even if leaner body, dying off in the finish. 87

1976 Château Palmer:

Berry Bros & Rudd label, estate bottled, dark green BBR foil. Cork confirms label. Bottom neck fill. Bright garnet, brick rim. Scented and floral, lean and very mature nose. A touch of VA that blows off. Sweet and sour. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean and drying, somewhat fruitier with air. 85

1967 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Garnet, brick rim, slightly cloudy. Cherries, liquorice and sweet and sour. Fresh acidity, few tannins, a bit lean and dry, lacks fruit. 82

1966 Château Palmer:

Berry Bros & Rudd bottled, darker red foil, lower neck fill. Cork states Berry Bros Rudd LTD London. Bright garnet, brick rim. Beautiful floral, cherries and red berries nose. Scented, layered and nuanced. Gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively, very elegant, quite refined, playful, slightly drying finish, but very refreshing and more so with air. 93

1961 Château Palmer:

Berry Bros & Rudd bottled, golden foil, mid-shoulder fill. Cork reads Berry Bros Rudd LTD London Château Palmer Margaux 1961. Slightly cloudy garnet with almost orange rim. Scented, slightly floral, red berries and cherries, figs, leather and prunes, dried tobacco. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively but drying finish, quite full bodied first, lean finish. Ads with air, getting fuller and longer. 92

1959 Château Palmer:

L'Acheteur negociant bottling.  Top shoulder fill. Cork stated nothing. Bright garnet, brick rim. Scented, liquorice, floral and a touch of mint on the nose. Red berries. Fresh acidity, drying palate, dusty and unpleasant, dry finish. Again it ads with air, getting more body. 86

1945-1998 Las Cases, twenty vintages

An excellent evening of twenty vintages of Château Léoville Las Cases. Rarely have there been more bottles in excellent condition at a vertical tasting. The wines of the 70's although very good in many cases, seems to be of a different style with more acidity, a leaner and more cherries and sweet and sour style, than the very fruit forward and rounder style, of both the 60's and older, and again from 1982 and younger. The 1945 was not decanted, but should have been, for about half an hour. The 59 and 61 was briefly decanted and would both have liked 45 minutes to an hour. The 82 and 86 got four to five hours, and would not have been harmed by even more, and the same goes for the younger ones. The 94 was the only one that could actually have had less (about five hours). Wines tasted from old to young.


1998 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Deep ruby. Cassis, some coffee, leather. Complex and layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruit forward and up front now. Needs ten years to come around, feels very young. 92

1995 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Ruby. Scented, cassis, leather, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced and ripe feel, fruity and long, way to young. Forget it for ten years or more. 93

1994 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Ruby. Young 94. Scented. Licorice, cassis. Vanilla and oak. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, oak up front and has problems to balance. Drying. 87

1990 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Ruby, thin garnet rim. Scented and quite up front. Licorice, cassis and a quite rich nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins,  a bit sweet, sweeter than 89. Lovely and long, but lacks a bit of nuance for me. Needs ten years to shed some fat. 93

1989 Château Léoville Las Cases:

In neck fill. Ruby, very thin garnet rim. Cassis, somewhat scented, ever so slightly gamey and a touch of licorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, warmer fruit and feels ripe. Touch of coffee and plum compot. Long. 94

1986 Château Léoville Las Cases:

In neck fill. Ruby. Scented, deep and intense. So youthful and more open than the last few bottles, but also more air. Five hours in decanter, and could still have more. Layered and nuanced, very refined. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, superb texture and structure, still very youthful, superb bottle and incredibly long. 99

1985 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Very top shoulder fill. Ruby, garnet rim. Layered, slightly spicy, cassis, leather, scented and very nuanced. Excellent nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very long, if ever so slightly lean. 95

1983 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Very top shoulder fill. Deep ruby, garnet rim. Off bottle. Warm storage.

1982 Château Léoville Las Cases:

One cm below cork fill. Ruby, thin garnet rim. Fresh nose, very nuanced for 82, layered, some cassis, some cedar, some scented notes, floral, not that ripe, very complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, layered and nuanced, refreshing and mouthwatering. Lacks that heaviness of some, superb. Very long. A stunning 82. 97

1981  Château Léoville Las Cases:

Top shoulder fill. Ruby, thin brick rim. Slightly scented nose. Flat palate, easy and short. 85

1979 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Lower top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. A bit dry and somewhat warm nose, slightly dusty. Fresh acidity and more fruity palate. Ripe and few tannins, not top bottle, but good enough. 89

1978 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Top shoulder fill. Ruby, garnet rim. Very tight, with air rose hips, leather, some bell peppers, almost spicy, pepper and cool blackcurrants. Fresh acidity, polished tannins, almost creamy, very fresh feel. Lovely bottle. Long. 92

1976 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Top shoulder fill. Ruby, garnet rim. Some bell peppers, blackcurrants, black tea, leather and cedar. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely freshness, playful and elegant, some would say sour, but for me refreshing. Lovely and refreshing finish. 92

1975 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Bottom neck fill. Slightly corked.

1971 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Very top shoulder fill. Ruby, thin brick rim. Some cassis,  vanilla and butter scotch.  Way more fragrant and scented after an hour. Fresh acidity, lively and ripe tannins. Fruit leaves the acidity halfway and even if quite lovely palate, it's to short. Lovely while it lasts.89

1966 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Bottom neck fill. Ruby, thin garnet rim. Cedar, almost "rough" cassis, tea and asparagus. Fuller with even more air. Fresh acidity, tannins polishes off, somewhat sweet and sour, long. More scented and rounder after an hour. 93

1961 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Very top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, thin orange rim. Extremelly closed, even after an hour in decanter, it's tight. Like last excellent bottle, surprisingly youthful. Etheral, somewhat minty and cool, cassis, touch of prunes, leather. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and still youthful, layered palate, very long. 97

1959 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, thin orange rim. Rich, cassis, cedar, leather, touch of sweet tobacco. Floral and scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mellow but rich, lovely palate. Very refreshing and long. 98

1955 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Danish bottling (Carl Reffs) Mid shoulder fill. Ruby with orange rim. Prunes, somewhat scented, some dust. Lovely acidity, somewhat maderized on the palate, lacks some fruit, dries a bit. Better than last bottle. 84

1945 Château Léoville Las Cases:

Mid shoulder fill. Bright ruby, thin orange rim. Stunning nose, scented, layered, somewhat rich. Subdued yet intense, floral, cedar, superb. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mellow and polished, but still there, the slightly warm and sweet fruit of the vintage is somewhat subdued. Extreme length. 98

 

1981 and 1977 Madeira's from D'Oliveiras

1981 D'Oliveiras Verdelho:

Amber, orange rim. Dried fruits, nuts, some apricots behind. Fresh and high acidity, rich yet somewhat lean body, long raisiny finish. 90

1977 D'Oliveiras Verdelho:

Bright amber, golden rim. Nuts, vanilla, dried fruits, apricots and orange peel. High acidity, refreshing, again that young Madeira leaner body, long. 90

82 Lafite, 83 Margaux, 78 Ausone, 81 Cheval Blanc and 82 Talbot

1978 Château Ausone:
Ruby, garnet rim. Cooked and dried style, lacks fruit. Dead on the palate. My first 78 Ausone and compared to other wines this vintage and other 70's Ausone's I've tried, this seems to have been stored poorly. 

1982 Château Lafite Rothschild:

Deep ruby. Floral notes, some cassis, licorice, very scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety texture, good fruit.  Way better after an hour, but, not optimal. 93

1982 Château Talbot:

Deep ruby, brick rim. Prunes, figs and sweet cherries. Leather beneath. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mature and elegant even if not perfect bottle. Long. 92

1983 Château Margaux:

Deep ruby, brick rim. Unfortunately corked. 

1981 Château Cheval Blanc:

Deep ruby, garnet rim. Prunes, minerals, some coffee and slightly dusty nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, quite rounded body but drying finish. 90 at best.

From the Arcus cellar tasting

Winemaker dinner with Zonnebloem at Grilleriet

Three invitations for South-African winemaker dinners or tastings dumped in my mailbox for last week. I did not have time for all of them, but this I managed, and it was an eyeopener. Not only because there was a splendid Pinotage, a grape variety that give me associations towards burnt rubber, asphalt and sweaty socks, and this was just pure fruit, but also on how well some of them could age. These are not expensive wines, and as most who read this blog regularly know that I'm spoiled rotten, I was honestly impressed. Since this dinner served older vintages I was particularly curious about it. And this is not your regular BIB writer stating this! The last wine that touched my lips before this dinner was 2009 Château Latour. Also some excellent talks with Zonnebloem's white winemaker Elize Coetzee, both on the wines themselves but also stories on safaris in Kruger National Park. We started out with a sparkling wine.

Pongrácz Cape Classique:
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Fruit-driven on the yellow fruit side and a touch of yeast. Fresh acidity, very elegant mousse, again yellow fruits and good length. Easy going but never boring. 84

Then on to Zonnebloem, first two whites.

2011 Zonnebloem Sauvignon Blanc:
BU2031201 (109,90) Pale lemon yellow. Fresh and fruit-driven, very ripe lemons and a touch of yellow apples. Fresh acidity, elegant and pure feel. Good length. 84

Served with cheviche of salmon with apple. Went well with the dish, even if I feel that the seafood paella mentioned from the producer would be excellent.

2011 Zonnebloem Chardonnay:
BU576601 (109,90) Towards lemon yellow. Apples and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, the oak is there but well integrated, especially at this pricerange, fruity, creamy texture and good length. 84

Served with scallop with fresh chilly. The chili sauce completely killing the combination and the delicate flavours of the scallop, but without the sauce, a good match.

On to reds.

2001 Zonnebloem Pinotage Reserve:
Magnum (n/a, 2010 Pinotage is, not tasted) Ruby, red and darker berries, licorice and some vanilla. Somewhat scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing and good length. 85

1981 Zonnebloem Pinotage:
Bright ruby. Earthy, leafy with some figs and raisins. Fresh acidity, tannins gone. Slightly fruitier than the bottle tasted the day before, balanced and good length. 83

Served with grilled cod with garlic cream and chestnuts. I'm not at all comfortable with fish and red wine as is quite customary in Norway. This worked much better with the Chardonnay I still had in my glass. A nice dish even if the chestnuts made it a bit dry.

2010 Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon:
BU4002801 (124,90) Deep ruby. Cassis and paprika, pure Cab nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, on the lean side but nice body and length. 85

1971 Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon:
Bright ruby, brick rim. Slightly dusty with figs, prunes and licorice. Fresh acidity, younger palate, elegant fruit. Ripe and few tannins if slightly drying finish. 86 at the very best stage.

Served with sirloin and sausage of lamb from Lofoten, side chimichurri, mint and turnip puree. Sausage was tasty, sirloin had nice flavours but could have been more tender, the rest was OK. Good match with the wines.

2010 Zonnebloem Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier:
BU5123601 (124,90) Deep ruby. Some pepper, blackberries and mint. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, good length. 84

Served with duck from the west country with pepper vanilla gastric, marinated apricots and chanterelles. The apricots was too sweet for the wine, otherwise a lovely dish and matched nicely with the wine.

1981 Zonnebloem Shiraz:
Ruby, thin brick rim. Earthy, some fruits, some pepper and hung game on the nose. Good acidity but tired. Dying off quickly in the glass. 80 at best.

Total disaster with valdeon cheese with walnut bread pudding. This would have worked very well with the next wine, even if the walnut bread pudding was nothing for me.

2010 Bergkelder Fleur du Cap Noble Late Harvest:
BU8052102 (139,90) (Demi) Golden. Apricots, botrytis, pears and cinamon. Fresh acidity, elegant sweetness, balanced and refreshing. Good length. 88+

Served with white chocolate cream and Granny Smith sorbet. A very refreshin dessert and a nice pairing.

1981 Montecillo Grand Reserva

1981 Montecillo Grand Reserva;
Garnet with brick rim. Nose of tobacco, prunes, plums, figs, leather, mature, fruity and fine. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, elegant, nice balance and length, the fruit carries on througout, and the barrels can't be seen. This is the best bottle (of many, and two magnums) I've had of this, over several years. Lovely. 92

81 Ch La Grave

1981 Château La Grave (Trigant de Boisset);
Ruby, thin orange rim. Plums, chocolate, redcurrant's, cherry-stones. Lean, lacks nearly everything on the palate. 45

1981 Ausone

1981 Château Ausone;
Ruby, thin brick rim. A level fill, splendid cork. Very little on the nose, maybe a faint touch of brett, some cassis, getting somewhat more sexy with air, coffee and chocolate, ripe plums. Good acidity, tannins more or less gone, easy going, a bit simple even if better with air. 83

Back in 1990 Parker felt this was an austere, tough-textured and charmless wine that needed ten more years to soften and develop. This bottle got twenty, and the tannins was almost gone.

1981 Ridge Montebello

1981 Ridge Montebello;
Ruby, brick rim. Licorice, cherry stone, cassis, leather, feels more youthful than the last bottle, coffee, but not as expressive and open either. Layered, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, long. 94

81 Ridge Montebello

1981 Ridge Montebello;
Ruby, brick rim, licorice, coffee, cassis, leather, fine, ripe, mature and beautiful. Lively acidity, tannins ripe and wearing off, beautiful length. 95

81 La Tour de By

1981 Château La Tour de By;
(Magnum) Ruby, brick rim. Dusty, redcurrant's behind, some roses come and go, touch of herbs. Lean body, good acidity, tannins fading. 82

Lunch at Château Dalem in Fronsac, tasting back to 1964

Going in the opposite direction from how the wines was tasted, this was an inspiring lunch during my first Fronsac visit. The landscape is captivating, like the hillsides of Tuscany or Umbria, and turning into the driveway of Château Dalem, an astonishing view towards Pomerol and Saint-Emilion revealed itself. Owner Brigitte Rullier-Loussert welcomed warmly, and after a tour of the estate (talking mostly french with my visiting companions, that I don't understand at all (French that is)) I used the time to gather my thoughts after a pretty busy primeur week. So my head was ready for some food, and a great mushroom pie was served among other courses, and some older vintages. Curiosity ran high!
2001 Château Dalem;

Ruby, maturing beautifully, starting to reach a very nice drinking window, fresh acidity, tannins starting to mature as well, good length. 89

2005 Château Dalem;

Ruby, more fruit driven than the 01, elegant texture and good acidity, feels classic in structure (meaning quite high tannins) yet lovely textured, long length. 91

2007 Château Dalem;

Ruby, fruity and spices at the moment, again fresh acidity, somewhat leaner body, typical of the vintage, but not much of the herbs so typical, ripe tannins, elegant texture, long finish. 89

1995 Château Dalem;

(Magnum) Ruby with garnet rim, fresh and fruity still, leather, figs, plums and cassis, showing evolution in the glass. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, elegant texture, long finish. 92

1990 Château Dalem;

Ruby, garnet rim, floral, expressive, fruit driven, prunes and cassis. Fresh acidity, some elegant tannins, lively and flirting, drinking beautifully now, long and fresh finish. 93

1985 Château Dalem;

(Magnum) Ruby, garnet rim. Prunes, blackcurrant's, leather, perfumed and elegant. More acidity, fresh, lively, tannins ripe, elegant texture, long and fresh finish. 93
1981 Château Dalem;

Ruby with thin brick rim, roses, prunes, violets and fine leather, fresh acidity, mature and really pleasing, elegant finish. 81's, especially Right Bank can surprise, as this one. 90

1970 Château Dalem;

Very top shoulder fill, ruby with orange rim, prunes, roses, floral, flirting and expressive, even plums. Beautiful texture, fresh acidity, soft and ripe tannins, refreshing, to me peaking right now. Gorgeous wine, very good length. 93

1964 Château Dalem;

Very top shoulder fill, ruby with orange rim. Truffles, roses, figs, raisins, some sweetness, cherries and leather. Fresh, elegant, like that old gentleman with a linen suit and a Jaguar XK 140 roadster on a hot summers day, sexy, classic, but not for everybody's taste, tannins seems long gone, long finish. For those who love old wine. 92
This Fronsac visit was a huge eye opener for me, I thought I knew something about Bordeaux..... When you have tasted more Mouton than Fronsac, it's pretty clear one doesn't. That's about to change! Some stunning wines, that really age very well indeed, and you can really afford not bottles, but cases of them. After visiting more estates in the last few weeks, I'm a new fan!

Finally a beautiful old DRC

1981 Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Richebourg;

Bottle 5690. High fill, bright ruby, orange rim, strawberries, fruity, elegant and quite tender nose first, gaining in intensity with air. Fresh acidity, very refreshing, a bit lean, acidic style with some good fruit lurking behind, ads on both nose and body, getting better by the hour, spicy, very good length, finally a beautiful mature DRC! 94

1981 Dr.Loosen WS Auslese

1981 Dr.Loosen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese;

Pale golden, closed, some tropical notes, easy going. Yellow fruits, good acidity, fresh and lively, not that sweet anymore, otherwise little that show of the age, lacks some complexity, very nice, good length. 86

1981 Biondi-Santi Riserva

1981 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva;
Bttl 7066. A level fill, cork half soaked, deep ruby, garnet rim, deeper colour than most Biondi's. Very earthy, dusty and mineral, deep notes of plums behind. Lean and some oxidation, licquorice, high acidity, some unripe tannins, woody highnotes, short finish. 73 at it's best, fading quickly.