Port and Madeira tasting

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Graham's Extra Dry White
Kr 185,-
Pale golden. Some yellow fruits, light apply nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded, touch of nuts, minerals, good length. 86

Graham's Six Grapes Reserve
Kr 219,90
Deep ruby. Dark fruits, blackberries and blueberries nose, rich, some chocolate. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, sweet, dark berries, elegant texture, good length. 88

2003 Smith Woodhouse LBV late release unfiltered
Kr 269,90
Deep ruby. Dark fruits, some spices, dark berries, light smoky note, blackberries, intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, dark berries, intense, liquorice, long. Drink over the next ten to fifteen years. 90

1977 Gould Campbell Vintage Port
Magnum. Bottled 1979. Ruby. Red berries, some cherries, light chocolate note nose, almost a touch floral. Fresh acidity, few tannins, bright red fruits, some dark chocolate, smooth texture, long. 92

1985 Warre's Vintage
Kr 890,-
Ruby with garnet rim. Some red berries, some chocolate, minty notes, detailed, bit more subdued nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins polishing off, dark fruits, some chocolate and mint again, light bitter note, long. 91

1991 Graham's Vintage
Ruby. Blackberries, mulberries, some chocolate, spices, dark fruits nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, dark berries, some spices, blackberries, elegant balance and body, long. 93

2000 Gould Campbell Vintage
Kr 450,-
Ruby. Dark berries, fruity, some spices and anise, faint almost tobacco like note and starting figs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, almost playful, delicate and fresh acidity, lovely fruit, long. 93

2000 Smith Woodhouse Vintage
Kr 450,-
Ruby. Dark fruits, some spices, mint, starting figs nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, some spices, elegant texture, detailed, long. 92

2003 Dow's Vintage
Kr 669,-
Deep ruby. Spices, blackberries, liquorice, rich and intense nose, ripe. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, some spices, intense and juicy, structure, long and sweet finish. 94

2004 Dow's Quinta do Bomfim Vintage
Kr 185,- halvflaske
Deep ruby. Dark fruits, ripe blackberries, blueberries, some liquorice, very fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins,d ark berries and mint palate, some chocolate, rich yet lovely balance, long. 94

2007 Smith Woodhouse Vintage
Kr 450,-
Deep ruby. Dark fruits, some spicy notes, blackberries, fruity, bit tight nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, dark berries, intense, juicy, even so bit tight and introvert, needs a few years cellaring still. 94

2012 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage
Kr 525,-
9000 bottles made. Towards black. Dark fruits, some spices, blackberries, intense nose, layered, deep. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark fruits, juicy, intense, rich, balanced, long. 94

2013 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage
Kr 545,-
9000 bottles made. Towards black. Dark fruits, ripe, fruity, intense, blackberries and blueberries, intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, dark berries, fruity, juicy, sweet, intense, long finish, firm. 95

Madeira

Cossart Gordon 5 Years Old Verdelho
Kr 109,90
Pale golden. Light nutty note, some dried fruits. Fresh acidity, ripe notes, some dried fruits, quite fresh. 84

Cossart Gordon 5 Years Old Malmsey
Kr 139,90
Gold with amber rim. Some nutty notes, raisins and touch of caramel nose. Fresh acidity, leaner palate, quite fresh and somewhat sweet 84

Blandy's 10 Years Old Sercial
Kr 245,-
Pale amber. Some dried fruits, raisins and some nuts, lighter nose. Fresh acidity. Fresh, minerals, light smoky and nutty note, good length. 87

Blandy's 10 Years Old Bual
Kr 245,-
Amber, golden rim. Some dried fruits, light apricots and raisins nose. Fresh acidity, sweet fruity palate, leaner body but fairly intense, good length. 88

1975 Cossart Gordon Verdelho Vintage
Kr 1499,-
Amber with yellow green rim. Some nuts, dried fruits, almost smoky notes, some raisins, give it air to open. Fresh acidity, fruity, detailed, rich, intense, leaner palate body wise but intense and almost smoky. Long finish. 91

1969 Blandy's Bual Vintage
Kr 1945,-
Amber, green hue. Intense nose, some dried fruits, raisins, dried apricots, layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, dried fruits, playful, refreshing, intense, lively, detailed, very long. 94

Borgogno Barolo Chinato
Kr 365,- 0,5 liter
Garnet with golden rim. Spices, some cherries, mint, eucalyptus, cinnamon, medicinal, kinin, layered. Fresh acidity, bitter kinin, some fruits, lots of herbs and medicinal, long. 90

Taupenot- Merme Charmes Chambertin and more

2012 Fanny Sabre Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, lighter nose, floral. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded, apples, lighter finish, delicate. 89

2014 Ochota Barrels Weird Berries in the Woods Gewürztraminer
1880 bottles made. Pale lemon yellow. Fruity, grapey nose, light rose touch. Fruity, leaner, fresh, rounded, scented, roses. 87

2012 Charles Audoin Marsannay Blanc Au Champ Salomon
Towards lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, detailed, light yellow fruits note nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded, fresh and elegant, lime finish. 87

2011 Bisol Venissa
Golden. 100% Dorona. Apricots, some clay, bananas, lilies florality on the nose. Fresh acidity, rounded, fruity, fairly playful, diffeent, sort of smooth, long. 89

1991 Château Musar blanc
Pale amber. Nuts, dried fruits, light VA, apricots, wood polish. Fresh acidity, leaner, fairly intense, wood and nuts, dried fruits, good length. 89

2009 Fonterenza Brunello di Montalcino
Ruby. Scented, leather, liquorice, cherries and figs nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, bit jammy, fruity, ripe, rich, good length. 89

2008 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino
Ruby. Intense, scented, liquorice, raisins nose. Cherries and chocolate. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, ripe, rounded, little bit lean and herbal finish, bit hollow. 88

2013 Innocent Bystander Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir
Bright ruby. Spices, strawberry jam nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, ripe, spices, little bit of a burnt note, slightly warm finish. 87

2012 Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny
Bright ruby. Light nose, scented, red berries, somewhat scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, elegant, rounded, little bit hollow. Good length. 89

2012 Taupenot-Merme Charmes Chambertin
Bright ruby. Scented, elegant nose, spices, fruity, some vanilla and spices, nuances behind. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, but bit firm oak texture behind, some  toast, needs air or rather cellar ageing, long. 92

2011 Clos du Jaygueron Margaux
Ruby. Cassis, violets, quite scented, ripe fruits, elegant nose but needs air to open. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, ripe, rich, structured, tannic but fruit to balance it seems, long. 91

The complete notes, Sommersmakingen including 05 Chevalier-Montrachet from Leflaive, 86 Petrus and much more

2013 Villany Weninger & Gere Rosé
Pale pink. Light fruity nose, some red apples and slightly scented. Fresh acidity, fruity, rounded if slightly edgy mid palate, softer finish. 84

2012 Szepsy Furmint
Served blind. Pale lemon yellow. Highly scented, floral, wax, jasmin, slight rose note on the nose. Almonds. Freshish acidity, fruity, rounded, rich, some honey, peach, slightly alcoholic finish. 86

2000 Philippi Pinot Gris
Served blind. Light amber. Nuts, smoky minerals, a bit oxidized nose. Fresh acidity, minerals, almonds, bit bitter, honey, wax, dried apricots, served warm but oxidative, roasted wood. Lean finish. 87

1986 Château Petrus
Served blind. Ruby, garnet rim. Cassis, blueberries, figs, prunes, leather, elegant nose, detailed, VA, rich nose. The VA blows off leaving a highly scented nose, flirting. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rounded, fruity, fairly elegant but a bit dry mid palate and the finish never catches up. Got a bit better for a while before drying a bit. More intense nose than last bottle, palate fairly similar but drier. Long. I was at Musars doors while the VA notes lasted, I went through Radici as well, ending in 89 Trotanoy. 92 at best. (95 on the nose)

2010 Gentilini Eclipse
Served blind. Ruby with pink rim. Scented, red berries, little bit warm and alcoholic, cherries, fruity nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity if leaner palate, vanilla, bit rich, fruity finish. Quite elegant Mavrodaphne. 86

2006 Brewer-Clifton Rio Vista Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir
Pale but not bright ruby. Red berries, fruity, raspberries, rich nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich and big palate, lots of alcohol, even if leaner fruit, well done for what style it is, but hardly a great wine. 85

2007 Rinaldi Barolo
Served blind. Bright ruby with sediments. Scented, tar and roses, rich nose, tea, anise, leather and cherries nose. Fresh and high acidity, high of ripe tannins, fruity and lively, intense, cherries and red berries, little bit high alcohol making it a bit sweet, long. 90

1971 Osvaldo Barisone Barolo
Served blind. Bright ruby core with brick rim. Leather, dusty and earthy nose, liquorice. Smells tired. Fresh acidity, but dry tannins and dry palate, tired.

1961 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino
Served blind. Cloudy garnet with brick rim. Tired nose, oxidized. Broth. Very tired.

2006 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino
Served blind. Bright ruby. Tar, roses, tight, scented, anise, cherries, things happen far back, nothing happens even after two hours in decanter. Fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins, tight, youthful, coffee and quite heavy. Who knows? Not like last bottle. 88-95

1999 Mastroberardini Taurasi Riserva
Served blind. Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, Christmas tree, tar and roses, fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner palate, refreshing, cherries and redcurrants, bit biting finish and somewhat hollow. Good length. 89

2007 Anselma Barolo Collaretto
Served blind. Ruby with garnet rim. Scented, tar and roses, subtle, violets, anise. Fresh and lively acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fresh and lively but a bit lean, scented but a bit hollow finish. Charming Barolo even so. 89

1991 Bonneau du Martray Corton
Served blind. Ruby with brick rim, lots of sediments. Red and darker berries, fruity but a bit subdued, starting sous bois. Spicy with more air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, elegant but slightly hollow, served a bit cool, refreshing. Long if a bit narrow. I was on 98-02 Clos de Vougeot. 92

2004 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
Bright ruby, garnet rim. Scented, red berries, slightly herbal but not that tight or herbal for the vintage, some spices, elegant nose if not flirting. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, bit tight, fruitier than last bottle, fresh and lively, bit thin. 90

2005 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet
Served blind. Towards lemon yellow. Minerals, flint, butter, lemons, elegant nose, lovely. Fresh acidity, elegant, fresh, some nuts, lemons, quite intense and fairly nuanced, detailed and long. I was on 2004 Leflaive Bienvenues. 95

1937 Giacomo Conterno Riserva
It's rare to have something as maderized as this one.

2007 Oremus Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos
Bright golden. Apples, apricots, fruity, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, elegant if a bit lean, very tropical, fresh, good length. 88

1938 Château Villargeil Rivesaltes
Ruby with very orange rim. Intense, rich, intense, coffee, massive nose but also dry notes. Fresh acidity, rich, intense, some sweetness, bit hollow, lots of alcohol, good length. 89

2006 Peter Nicolay Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Beerenauslese
Pale golden. Apples, botrytis, minerals, light peach note, apricots, slightly spicy, bit shy nose. Fresh acidity, lively, rounded and fruity, could be fresher, elegant, bit short. 89

2005 Oremus Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos
Golden. Tropical, fruity, intense of pineapples, rich, vanilla notes, very clean and vibrant nose. Fresh acidity, lively and playful, refreshing and fruity, again vibrant, detailed, mouthwatering and long. 93

1958 Cappelano Barolo
Tired and oxidated.

Excellent Talbot 86, Clos Fourtet 88, Hudelot-Noellat VR Suchots, Lanson Gold label 96 and more

2000 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs
Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Apples, lemons, some yellow fruits and light minerals. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, fresh and fairly fruity, some yellow apples, long if a bit lean finish. 90

1996 Lanson Gold Label
Towards lemon yellow, small bubbles. Apples, minerals, slightly flinty, intense nose. Fresh acidity, lively mousse, fresh, lively, intense, apples, citrus, minerals, very long finish. 94

2008 Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
Pale bright ruby. Lovely red berries and faintly scented nose, delicate and detailed, more intense with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and light texture and palate, more intense fruit, lovely balance, quite mouthwatering, long. 93

2002 Château Pichon-Longueville
Ruby. Cassis, starting cedar notes, some tobacco and leather, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, youthful and fresh palate, bit lean and slightly raw texture without air, long. 91

2000 Château Montus Cuvée Prestige
Ruby. Blackberries and raspberries with tobacco and coffee on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slight drying texture, could have more fruit mid palate, mulberry note, long finish. 90

2008 Pignan Chateauneuf-du-Pape Réservé
Light ruby, brick rim. Ripe plums, figs and blackberries nose, quite seductive nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich and fruity, slightly warm with delicate fruit behind, long. 91

1967 Fontanafredda Barolo Vigna La Rosa
In neck fill. Pale orange, oxidative and earthy, thin and dry palate

1967 Fontanafredda Barolo Vigna La Villa
In neck fill. Pale ruby with brick rim and lots of sediments. Earthy, touch of prunes, very oxidized. Acidic and lean palate, drying finish.

1964 Mirafiore Barolo
In neck fill. Cloudy brick. Dry and dusty nose, some earth and wet mud nose, slight tar and roses note fat back. Lean and thin, dry.

1952 Fontanafredda Barbaresco
Almost in neck fill. Watery red with orange rim and lots of sediments. Tar, roses and dusty nose, some cherries. Fresh acidity, few tannins, leaner palate, still balanced if lacking in complexity, good length. Must have been very good. 86

1990 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pora
Ruby, broad orange rim. Oxidative nose of tar and roses, very mature, slightly figgy and sherry notes. Fresh acidity, lean and dry.

1988 Clos Fourtet
Bottom neck fill. Ruby. Lovely and elegant floral nose, detailed, layered, seductive nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner palate but playful and detailed, lovely freshness, not the most complex but very charming indeed, long. 92

1986 Château Talbot
Very top shoulder fill. Ruby, very thin brick rim. Youthful, fresh and detailed nose, layered, complex, leather, cassis, superb nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some sweet and ripe notes and still fresh and vigorous, detailed again, layered, superb, refined, superb bottle. Very long. 96

1988 Château Suduiraut
Golden. Apricots, light caramel note, especially light for producer and vintage, tropical and some fried pineapples nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, fresh and rounded mid palate, bit more edgy finish, long. 92

1991 Hutcheson Vintage Port
Slightly cloudy ruby with garnet rim. Some figs, dark berries and alcohol note nose. Fresh acidity, some figs and fairly fruity palate overshadowed by a bit obvious alcohol. Good length. 89

1977 Dow's Vintage Port
Very pale brick. Plums, figs, dades, some dark notes. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, bit alcoholic, dried fruits, not to complex, long. 90

Faustino I 2000-1964

2000 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby, garnet rim. Figs, anise and blueberries nose, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, bit oaky palate. Fresh, good length. 88

1994 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby with garnet rim. Scented, nuanced. Blueberries, youthful and expressive nose, lovely bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, elegant, fruity, long finish. 91

1991 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, figs, leather, vanilla and tobacco nose. Fresh acidity, tannins polishing off, fruity, lively, long. 90

1970 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Bright ruby, garnet rim. Scented, figs, leaner and slightly dusty nose. Fresh acidity, leaner than last bottle, fairly nuanced but a bit short. Bottle variations on these. 87

1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Bright ruby. Orange rim. Figs, leather, blueberries touch, scented nose. Fresh acidity, few tannins. Fresh. Elegant and nuanced, lovely if somewhat less intense bottle, long. 92

Four from Latour de By

1998 Château La Tour de By:
Ruby, thin garnet rim. Tobacco, cassis, leather, vanilla and anise nose, maturing. Slight cedar touch. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cassis, leather, some vanilla, elegant Médoc, starting to drink well now, kan be kept another ten years. 87

1996 Château La Tour de By:
Ruby, thin brick tim. Cassis, plums, starting figs, leather, vanilla, spicy nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leanish body for the vintage, anise, evolving, good length. 88

1991 Château La Tour de By:
Ruby, brick rim. Tobacco, figs, prunes, leather and anise nose. Some herbs in the back. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean body, just starting to dry, slightly dusty finish. Drink soon. 85

1982 Château La Tour de By Heritage Marc Pages:
3000 bottles, 80 CS, 20 M. Ruby, thin brick rim. Scented, anise, red berries, leather, figs and cedar touch. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, palate, rich for médoc, fairly nuanced, long. 90

Comte Georges de Vogüé at Bagatelle

Tasting notes in English and a few comments about the food in Norwegian.
 
Det ble en rekke småsmaker til Champagne før burgunderne kom på bordet, alle delikate, flotte og subtile, jeg trekker frem tre favoritter. 

Råreke- rabarbra, elegant og sødmefult, ganske tender, men en slurk med Champagne får det til og eksplodere i mineralitet. 

Krabbe- flatbrød, superb kombinasjon av sødmefult klokjøtt og jordlig flatbrød med elegant syrlig kremet ost. 

Nordisk tartar, en elegant og delikat smak.

Endelig en kamskjellrett hvor tilbehøret fremhever aromaene i kamskjellet isteden for å overdøve. Elegant og flott, med en intens lukt av sjø fra tangen skjellet lå på. Herlig rett. Og bedre ble det, en runde med kamskjelltartar med blomkålsaus fulgte, elegant og deilig hvordan blomkålen kanskje rundet av sødmen i kamskjellene noe, og tilførte noe kremet og løftet kanskje mineralene noe. Fantastisk. 

1999 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne blanc:

Towards lemon yellow. Intense nose, lemons, apples, minerals, slightly floral and yellow fruits. Touch of butter. Flinty with more air in the glass. Fresh acidity, leaner palate, pure Madagascar vanilla, smoky, quite focused, but could have a bit more mid-palate. Long and intense finish. Ever so slight touch of honey and beeswax, that just rounds it off a bit.  94

Piggvar-selleri-brunet smør. Saftig piggvar, med ørsmå selleribiter som ga både tekstur til retten og ekstra smak. Smørsausen var mer kremet enn brun på smak, og rundet det hele av, meget elegant, og nært perfekt match med vinen, som fremsto mer mineralsk. 

2011 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny:

Bright ruby. Red berries, slight herbal note far behind, slightly scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, youthful and fruity, but a bit lean and tight, good length, quite nuanced. 89

1993 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny:

Ruby, still garnet rim. Scented, red berries, touch of sous bois, hint of leather, elegant and nuanced nose, superbly charming. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly edgy palate still, feels far younger, blind I would be ten years or so younger. Slight iodine note with more air. Long. But the secret is that the young vines of Musigny, the ones younger than 25 years, was blended into this wine. This practice ended in 1995. 92 

2011 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru:

Bright ruby. Scented, floral, red berries, almost violets nose, again pure Madagascar vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, tight, quite intense, focused, nuanced, long. 92

 

 

2002 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru:

Bright ruby, thin garnet rim. Scented, fruity, nuanced, a more subdued violets note, beautiful nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, tight, bit gripping before it opens into an almost velvety aftertaste, long. 93

1997 Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, red berries, minerals, nuanced and elegant nose, layered, pure, complex and refined. Floral and an almost Mouton Rothschild like exoticness.   Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly drying texture mid palate, ever so slightly oaky still, surprisingly youthful fruit, can be kept to polish it off a bit more. Long. 94

Villand med traktkantarell, smakfult kjøtt, elegant saus med lekker sopp. Salaten dro frem for mange negative toner i vinen, og ble også noe bitter til maten. Anden hadde litt jodtoner som ble fremhevet av salaten, men noe nøytralisert av soppen. 

2011 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares:

Bright ruby.  Red berries, scented, pure and quite intense nose, slight plummy note. Floral with more time in the glass, getting the floral note quicker than the '95 a month ago. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, that for me seemingly typical slightly unripe strawberries tightness and coolness of flavour, refreshing, long finish. 94

2001 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares:

Ruby, thin garnet rim. Fruity, scented, ripe plums, overripe strawberries, holds on to the floral notes much tighter than the '11, doesn't quite want to let go. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit, refreshing, again a bit tight, almost playful. Ever so slightly edgy still, needs five to ten years, long. 94

Aldeles nydelig reinsdyr, men tilbehøret her ble for kraftig for meg. Noe intenst av einer, nesten mot noe kvaepreg, og litt kraftig, nærmest rå løk. Kjøttet var himmelsk. 

2011 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vielles Vignes:

Ruby. Red berries, scented, some vanilla, ever so slightly herbal, nuanced, floral, violets, layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, bit tight and closed even after a few hours in decanter, delicate, nuanced, transparent, elegant, long finish. 95

1991 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vielles Vignes:

(Magnum) 16 hl/Ha. Ruby, thin garnet rim. Floral, scented, layered, nuanced and evolving nose. Ever so slight sous bois touch, red berries. Spicy. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, intense, refreshing, redcurrants and strawberries, long finish. 94

Avsluttet med ost og Frossen skog, en dessert som for meg oste av beskt granbar. Ikke årets første bitre/ beske dessert, kanskje er dette trendy, for meg helt håpløst som er litt vel sensitiv mot det bitre og beske. Smakte som duften man får i stuen når man står opp i jula. Nå hører det med til historien at flere rundt bordet syntes dette var fantastisk. Herlig å få så mange smaker og retter hvor råvaren fremheves av tilbehøret og de justeringene av smakene som måtte til ved første besøk i våres er helt klart gjennomgått mange ganger og finjustert. Nensomt, nyansert, detaljert og elegant. En strålende kveld på Bagatelle. Takk for at jeg fikk oppleve dette.

1991 Latour and 00 Carruades de Lafite

2000 Carruades de Lafite:

Ruby, garnet rim. Nuanced, elegant, refined, complex, a lovely if subdued nose, especially for the vintage. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, nuanced, fresh, elegant, superb balance, long finish. 91

1991 Château Latour:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, fruity, elegant, nuanced if lighter nose, spicy, trying to seduce. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, leaner, elegant but lacks some nuances, still lots of pleasure. Good length. 89

Faustino I 1964-2000

2010 Faustino VII:

Ruby. Red and blueberries nose, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fairly elegant fruit, but a bit simple. 83

2006 Faustino VI Reserva:

(Magnum) Ruby. Blueberries and liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some barrel notes sticks it's head out in fairly elegant fruit, good length. 85

2000 Faustino I:

Ruby. Leather, liquorice, spicy and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh fruit, a bit much barrel notes behind, good length. 86

1994 Faustino I:

Ruby, garnet rim. Somewhat dusty, figs and spicy nose. Fresh aidity, ripe tannins, fairly nice fruit but seems like a not perfect bottle. Another opened and confirmed with more fruit both on nose and palate. Good length. 88

1991 Faustino I:

Ruby, garnet rim. Spicy, liquorice and floral nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity palate but lean style and texture, good length. 87

1970 Faustino I:

Brick red. Floral, scented, figs and prunes nose, purer than last botte of this one, more refined. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, soon gone. Fruity, elegant, I think the best 70 Faustino I I've had, long finish. Many are a bit too dusty, this was not. 91

1964 Faustino I:

Brick with orange rim. Liquorice, vanilla, figs, coffee and something exotic behind. Fresh acidity, few tannins, polished texture, fruitier and more elegant than most bottles of this I've tried, and it's actually quite a few over the years, last one a few months back. 92

Bonneau du Martray winemakers dinner at Bagatelle

It's not every day that a producer with such a reputation on white wines from Burgundy visits Norway, so I even cancelled a Bordeaux-vertical tasting to attend. And since some states that there is a premature oxidation issue with the wines from Bonneau du Martray, I was even more interested in going. Personally I have never felt this producer is one of the 'bad guys' of premox, I have only had some issues with a few bottles of 2002. A 1993, 1987, 2002 and 2005 this last few months have all been excellent.

I was offcourse also very curious about the new Bagatelle with some excellent new staff and a new direction. Some fine tuning (as a bit slow refill of water) and it will all be perfect. For the first time ever in a restaurant, my white tea at the end of the meal had been brewed at a correct temperature. They normally brew white and green tea in too hot water. There was a menu of 18 smaller or larger tastes rather than courses. First was simply calles Oysters-Apple and was an excellent oyster with a sweet freshness from a bit of apples, very delicate and nuanced. I will not go into details on all eighteen windows of taste as I write first and foremost on wine.

Third taste was Raw shrimp-Tomato and the shrimps from Iceland was extremely delicate and tender in flavour and texture and truly elegant and therefore slightly over run by the again very subtle tomato flavours. An elegant small dish even if I would have preffered it even more with the shrimps by itself. But I'm also a huge fan of shellfish with no messing about. At this stage we drank a glass of magic. 2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne with it's pale golden colour and elegant and superbly nuanced nose. Refined and layered, pure minerality, gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, you need to look carefully not to miss any of the remarkable number of details in this superb wine, it's poetic. Very long indeed. 96

The King Crab-Herbs was another delicious taste that I could easilly hav as a meal in itself, with a slight crunch and a more expressive flavour to it. Perfect with the 2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, again pale golden colour (it was a bit darker lighting than usual, so could be the light) and one notice the vintage difference right away. Even if mostly apples and minerals on the nose, it's richer and fruitier on the nose. Fresh acidity, elegant if riper and fatter, long. 92

We also had a small sandwich that I can't quite find out which one of the tastes in the menue it was, but that was probably the best sandwich I've tasted. The Scallops-Broccoli was a bit too much broccoli for the scallops to handle. The more exclusive and delicate scallops was a bit overwhelmed. Turning the dish upside down on the other hand made the scallops taste more.Somewhere along here we had 2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, pale lemon yellow, refreshing lemon cest and minerals nose, tight after the 09 and even if gorgeously refreshing, it lacks a bit besides the 2010. Fresh acidity, nuanced if a bit on stilts, apples, minerals and lemon finish. 94

There was a fantastic fish that I think is called Lemon Sole in English with a soft and gentle taste, very elegant and subtle, and my first. 2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, pale golden, minerals, apples, layered and a touch of nuts. Fresh acidity, richer fruit and slightly yellow fruity, lively and some butter. Have evolved since my last bottle about two years back, but less than expected. 92 Then came an excellent pork knuckle with a superb bearnaise sauce. That sauce was pure magic and a touch sweeter than most bearnaise sauces, and maybe a touch more spices in it as well. 1991 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, towards golden, fairly rich and nutty, leaner and sharper nose. Fresh acidity, slightly bitter and not quite together. Richer palate but also a bit hollow, good length. If I had any left this would be for the summer. 88

We had a few dishes that were on the smoky side for me, and a lot it seemed of Danish cheese, and personally I would have wished for something fresher at the end of the meal. The last white was 1987 Bonneau du Martray-Corton Charlemagne, pale golden, yellow plums and apples with a touch of oxidation (off the apples). Some nuts and minerals. Fresh acidity, elegant if a bit lean, some fruit stones comming that I can't recall from earlier bottles, leaner than last bottle but holding up remarkably well. 89

Last wine was the 1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton, bright red with garnet rim. Touch of maturing Pomerol nose at first with blueberries, plums and figs, but more red berries and scented with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body and slightly Corton rusticity with some vanilla showing up. Slightly herbal finish. 88 The meal was excellent on the whole, and so was the wine. This was a set menue and was not designed for the wines and that also made it two tastings side by side, and to be honest. For me it worked perfectly. It made it maybe even easier to focus on the nuances and flavours of the food and on the wines side by side. Looking forward to next visit to Bagatelle, and the next glass of Bonneau du Martray as well.

2010 L'Extravagant and very rare 1991 Doisy Daëne

2011 Clos Floridene Blanc:
Pale lemon yellow. Citrus, some vanilla, grapefruit and minerals on the nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, almost creamy, rounded, vigorous but subdued, long. 88

2009 Château Doisy Daëne:
Pale golden. Apricots, minerals, vanilla, a very fresh and pure nose, pineapples. Superb acisity, gorgeous balance, refreshing and lively, stunning purity, very long. Amazing. 94+

1991 Château Doisy Daëne:
Never released from the estate, but sold to a few collectors and friends of the estate and familly, in small quantities. Deep golden. Raisins, apricots, overripe apples. Fresh acidity, elegant, somewhat opulent, touch of caramel. Fresh acidity, elegant texture and lovely balance, long and pure finish. 92

2010 L'Extravagant de Doisy Daëne:
Pale golden. Intense nose, extremelly complex and concentrated and still light on it's feet and fresh. Very pure. Fresh and amazing acidity, superb balance, texture is beyond, velvety or rather creamy, so together, waves of flavours, when you think it's over, another wave comes in. Excellent. 97+

Faustino I vertical back to 1964

 All bottles came directly from the cellars of Bodegas Faustino.


2001 Faustino de Autor:
Ruby. Scented, blueberries and licorice, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit not drowned in barrel notes, good length. 89

2000 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby. Scented, roses, blueberries, licorice and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing and playful, long. 89

1994 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby. Leather, licorice and blueberries. Fruity- Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshingly fruitdriven still, as it used to be, and surprisingly little have happened since the first bottles I've tried almost ten years ago. I've had some bottles in between from different collectors cellars not as pure and up front as this, comming directly from Faustino. A lovely wine, just as I remember it. 90+

1991 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby. Scented, floral, blueberries and vanilla. Fresh acidity, tannins letting go, playful, eleagnt and long. Balanced and fresh feel. 90

1970 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Bright ruby, thin brick rim. Figs, prunes, blueberries and scented notes. Lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, still lovely fruit but drying ever so slightly around the edges if I'm picky. I think the freshest and best bottle I've tried of the '70. 89

1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Bright ruby, broad brick rim. Figs, prunes, some vanilla and somewhat dusty. Fresh acidity, drying texture, less dry and dusty than most bottles I've tried of Faustino I in this vintage, and it's quite a few actually, drink it if you have it. 84

30 years of Coulée de Serrant

La Coulée de Serrant was planted with vines by Cistercian monks as early as 1130 and has had 881 (soon 882) consecutive grape harvests. It's a single AOC of just 7 hectares. Biodynamic guru Nicolas Joly is at the helm here. I've been a bit sceptical, especially after the monstrous 06 and 05's, (and oxidized!) but todays tasting of 08 and 09 makes me feel they might be back on track. Todays speach on how a cow see right through you and that snowflakes are individual may seem a bit far off topic.

On the other hand, when he talks about that a little of this, or a little of that may, or may not be harmfull in or on the soil. When he then says that a leech was nothing but a tiny seed a few months back, it's all easier to see how only a tiny piece of something, can have a good or a bad effect. Obvious really, even if it sometimes feels like a gospel choir should be on stage with him. Below are the two latest vintages, and some older ones tasted back in 2010 further below.

2009 Coulée de Serrant:
Pale lemon yellow. Nutty, creamy nose, sweet lilies, marzipan, bananas and a touch of VA. Rich palate, medium acidity, balanced, didn't get a look at the alcohol level, but this felt less alcoholic than the 05. Good length. 90

2008 Coulée de Serrant:
BU5249401 (498,-) Pale lemon yellow. Feels like there is some botrytis, creamy and some vanilla. More subdued marzipan. Rich palate, fresh acidity, lively and elegant, again, feels like a change of style. Long. 91

Straws want to reach high into the sky, they are tied with the sky according to Mr.Joly

2006 Coulée de Serrant:
Golden. Massive nose of oxidation, alcohol and bananas. Lazy acidity overshadowed by alcohol and huge body, again unfresh and massive. At least ten bottles have behaved like this, from different cases, so I don't think it's bottle failure.... 75

2005 Coulée de Serrant;
Pale golden, almonds, tulips, floral, honney, orange blossoms, nuts, marsipan, intens and beautifull. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, almost velvety, so balanced, even with the quite high alcohol of 15%, one barely notice it way back in the finish. I have probably tried two dozen bottles of this, and this one is so different from the others, all of them oxidized in one way or the other, this one is just elegant, smooth and joyfull, with very different aromas. Bananas, melons, honney, pear, if this is how it should be, what a cool wine, but this bottle is, as stated above, nothing like the others. Very long finish. Lacks the minerality I associate with this wine though. 92 (On this one great bottle, the rest are low 80's....)


2002 Coulée de Serrant;
Dark lemon, high fill, no sign of sepage, but soaked cork. Intence minerality, some apples and yellow plums, petroleum, dust, cellar and fresh mushrooms. Medium body, fresh in a weird way, lots of acidity, lots of intencity, some oxidized notes, long aftertaste, different but good, needs decanting. Can be left in the bottle for weeks without much happening. 86

Not as oxidized as 05 and 06, but still, much of the same. Major difference is actually less alcohol, and that always helps.

1996 Coulée de Serrant;
Dark golden, soaked cork. Again this almost insane minerality, pear, stone, leaves, schistes, some mushrooms, actually more youthfull than the 02!. Medium body, extreme intencity, massive and fresh acidity, yellow plums, apples and pears, acidity never gives in, very long finish, but still a bit oxidized........88

So, how much older do we have to go, to get rid of the oxidation.........

1994 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, cork only half soaked, this one leaps out of the glass, again this massive minerality, honey and melon, grapefruit, flint and schistes, unripe pear and is it botrytis back there? It almost has this Sauternes tropical fruit over this increadible massive minerality, it want's to love you and kill you at the same time, dry and crisp finish, still some oxidation. 92

I like them better and better, mostly because the oxidation and alcohol level both seems to drop with age......

1991 Coulée de Serrant;
Paler than the 94, still golden, again soaked cork, but it's a older bottle. Not as intence as the 94, otherwise more or less exactly the same, more gentle, shorter and easier, more forgiving, but still a bit oxidized, and as a lighter one, it shows better. 87

1990 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, explosive minerality again, honey melon, fresh pears, honey and nuts, even when decanted for two days, nothing much happens in any direction, but the acidity is lazy, a bit lean body and all the honey don't mach, like the oposite of a fat girl with a bit too small top. And still oxidized.........84

So, trying wines from 16 years from oldest to youngest, all sharing a very similar style, except the lowering of alcohol, and to some exctent, oxidation, but it is still very much a part of the style.

1989 Coulée de Serrant;
Lemon yellow, more mature smelling, dust, leaf, minerals, quite less oxidation than the 90, flint, plaster and lemon, a bit steely and lean, not that long and an acidic finish. 83

1984 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, a bit closed, some minerals, apples, pears, much fresher than the 89 and 90, massive nuts, probably how a squirrel feels when it has the cheeks filled with hazelnuts, lean, acidic, a bit short finish. Still some oxidation, great balance, but a bit short. Nothing happened during 24 hours open, in the bottle. 86

Seems to get fresher again after two a bit dissapointing bottles of 90 and 89.

1980 Coulée de Serrant;
Deep straw yellow! First light colour, and that at almost 30 years of age! Some smoked meaty notes, flint, hints of melon, more citrus, then oysters. This is really different. Even more, almost massive citrus with more air, fresh and lively minerality, very elegant and great balance, leaner than all the others, and so much fresher and more youthfull, actually has the fat girls 14,5 alcohol, but this one knows how to dress, and looks smart. Very long finish. 90

So. This last one, doesn't have any oxidation at all. Is this more of the style that made Coulee de Serrant world famous? It was an impressive old bottle from a lesser vintage. I preffer this style. Has the style gone more back to its roots? I don't know, I didn't taste them young, but from those two young vintages (and bottles) today, I keep my fingers crossed.