2010 Schloss Johannisberg, the Royal treatment

A nice line up of beautiful Riesling

The legendary Schloss Johannisberg

A beautiful article was written in yesterday's Norwegian newspaper DN, (in the D2 part) but they failed to give any description on the wines for some reason, and for the 2010's that they said was out of this world. I used to work for the Norwegian importer of this fantastic estate, so I seem to be lucky enough to taste the latest vintage every year (and sometimes even older vintages as well). Here is my view of the truly amazing 2010's of Schloss Johannisberg.

2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Gelblack Trocken;

Pale lemon, very pure, fruit driven, yellow fruits, elegantly balanced, fresh acidity, long finish. 91

2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rotlack Trocken;

Pale lemon, again very pure, elegant texture, more focused and "sharp" in structure, long length. 91

2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Gelblack Feinherb;

Pale lemon, again more fruity and pure, well balanced, slightly more rounded texture, lively and long. 91

2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rotlack Kabinett (Feinherb);

Pale lemon, very refined and elegant Kabinett, on the slightly drier style, or rather more classic than has been in fashion lately, pure, lively and long. 92

2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Grünlack Spätlese;

Pale lemon, superb refinement on the nose, balance perfection, fragrant, nuanced, layered, the elegance is out of this world, I just love this wine.... 94

2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rosalack Auslese;

Somewhat deeper lemon, pure, roses, intense, layered, complex, superb acidity, stunning texture and so mouthwatering, marvelous, fantastic length. 97

2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Goldlack Trockenbeerenauslese;

Golden, intense, layered and seductive. 23 grams acidity, 254 g. rs, the balance, intensity and complexity is beyond words, length for minutes on end, acidity is beyond description. I think perhaps the best way to describe this wine would be to describe the reaction of the four of us tasting it. (well Christian Witte (Domäneverwalter) has tasted it many times, but I could see the anticipation in his eyes). We smelt it in the glass, looked at each other with a -"Ahhh". Then tasted it, everybody started looking at each other, smiling more and more with eyes wide open in pure pleasure, then everybody just started laughing loudly. 100

In the olden days, the wine from Schloss Johannisberg was sold only to families of Royal blood. This is also the first estate recorded to plant solely with Riesling, and Spätlese was introduced here. Few wine making properties are more legendary.

Colour coding of Schloss Johannisberg:

Gelblack: Qba, normally both dry and off dry (Feinherb) made every year.

Rotlack; Kabinett, normally both dry and off dry (Feinherb) made every year.

Silberlack: Erstes Gewächs (EG) (Grand Cru) Dry/Trocken

Grünlack: Spätlese

Rosalack: Auslese

Rosa-Goldlack: Beerenauslese (BA)

Goldlack: Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)

Blaulack: Eiswein

2010 Haut-Brion with family

2010 La Clarté de Haut-Brion;

(2nd label of both HB Blanc and La Mission HB Blanc, used to be Plantiers HB) Pale lemon, pure fruit, citrus, tropical, grapefruit, minerals, flint, fresh acidity, beautiful balance, yellow fruits and smokey mineral long finish. 93-94

(Did you know that smokey flavours in Pessac-Leognan reds and whites stem from the minerality, not from barrels?)

2010 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc;

(Formerly Laville Haut-Brion) Pale lemon yellow, citrus, minerals, tropical, acidity is perfection and balance is superb, pure joy to taste this, complex, refined, and stunning length. Pure. 97-98

2010 Château Haut-Brion Blanc;

Pale lemon, citrus, flint, minerals, somehow fuller than LMHB on the texture, apples, tropical, fatter also, stil elegant texture, superb balance and gorgeous length. 97-98
2010 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion;

(2nd label La Mission HB) Deep ruby, elegant cassis, blackberries, floral and eucalyptus, even minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, mouthwatering finish, long length. 92-93

2010 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion;

(2nd label Haut-Brion, former Bahans HB) Deep ruby, floral, ethereal, perfumed, black- and blueberries, cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, beautiful texture, superb balance, long length. 93-94
2010 Château La Mission Haut-Brion;

Deep ruby, cassis, floral, perfumed, rose garden. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, beautiful balance, refreshing, chocolate and a very long finish. 94-95

2010 Château Haut-Brion;

Deep ruby, cassis, terracotta, mint, violets, chocolate touch, so complex and layered. Fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins, superb aromas, so refreshing and massive length, minutes of raspberries and chocolate. 97-99 (100)

2010 Duhart-Milon

2010 Château Duhart-Milon;

Deep ruby, floral, cassis, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, Pauillac texture, long length, and quite sexy. Probably the best Duhart-Milon ever. I have found the slightly boring if correct, and uninspiring before, this one isn't. 92-94

2010 Lafite Rothschild and family

Random cases of Lafite, just like home (or not :))

My last visit during primeur, but definitely not the least!

2010 Château Lafite Rothschild;

Deep ruby, floral, cassis, complex and refines, very difficult to analyze, that feeling of some real greatness just teasing you out there in the back. Beautiful texture, elegant and ripe tannins, pure, long, for the long haul, will need thirty years in the cellar to start to show it's full potential. 96-99, probably a legend in the making.

2010 Carruades de Lafite;

(2nd label) Deep ruby, fruity, floral, complex and refined, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, beautiful texture, very long length. Even this one will need fifteen-twenty years to really shine. 92-93

Lunch at Château Dalem in Fronsac, tasting back to 1964

Going in the opposite direction from how the wines was tasted, this was an inspiring lunch during my first Fronsac visit. The landscape is captivating, like the hillsides of Tuscany or Umbria, and turning into the driveway of Château Dalem, an astonishing view towards Pomerol and Saint-Emilion revealed itself. Owner Brigitte Rullier-Loussert welcomed warmly, and after a tour of the estate (talking mostly french with my visiting companions, that I don't understand at all (French that is)) I used the time to gather my thoughts after a pretty busy primeur week. So my head was ready for some food, and a great mushroom pie was served among other courses, and some older vintages. Curiosity ran high!
2001 Château Dalem;

Ruby, maturing beautifully, starting to reach a very nice drinking window, fresh acidity, tannins starting to mature as well, good length. 89

2005 Château Dalem;

Ruby, more fruit driven than the 01, elegant texture and good acidity, feels classic in structure (meaning quite high tannins) yet lovely textured, long length. 91

2007 Château Dalem;

Ruby, fruity and spices at the moment, again fresh acidity, somewhat leaner body, typical of the vintage, but not much of the herbs so typical, ripe tannins, elegant texture, long finish. 89

1995 Château Dalem;

(Magnum) Ruby with garnet rim, fresh and fruity still, leather, figs, plums and cassis, showing evolution in the glass. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, elegant texture, long finish. 92

1990 Château Dalem;

Ruby, garnet rim, floral, expressive, fruit driven, prunes and cassis. Fresh acidity, some elegant tannins, lively and flirting, drinking beautifully now, long and fresh finish. 93

1985 Château Dalem;

(Magnum) Ruby, garnet rim. Prunes, blackcurrant's, leather, perfumed and elegant. More acidity, fresh, lively, tannins ripe, elegant texture, long and fresh finish. 93
1981 Château Dalem;

Ruby with thin brick rim, roses, prunes, violets and fine leather, fresh acidity, mature and really pleasing, elegant finish. 81's, especially Right Bank can surprise, as this one. 90

1970 Château Dalem;

Very top shoulder fill, ruby with orange rim, prunes, roses, floral, flirting and expressive, even plums. Beautiful texture, fresh acidity, soft and ripe tannins, refreshing, to me peaking right now. Gorgeous wine, very good length. 93

1964 Château Dalem;

Very top shoulder fill, ruby with orange rim. Truffles, roses, figs, raisins, some sweetness, cherries and leather. Fresh, elegant, like that old gentleman with a linen suit and a Jaguar XK 140 roadster on a hot summers day, sexy, classic, but not for everybody's taste, tannins seems long gone, long finish. For those who love old wine. 92
This Fronsac visit was a huge eye opener for me, I thought I knew something about Bordeaux..... When you have tasted more Mouton than Fronsac, it's pretty clear one doesn't. That's about to change! Some stunning wines, that really age very well indeed, and you can really afford not bottles, but cases of them. After visiting more estates in the last few weeks, I'm a new fan!

2010 Ducru- Beaucaillou and La Croix

2010 Château Ducru- Beaucaillou;

Black, intense, fruit driven, still elegant somehow, all over the place stylistically, love the acidity and texture, long finish. 92-95

2010 La Croix de Beaucaillou;

Not a second label as such, but since 05 made from different parcel(s) from Ducru, just like Clos du Marquis. Deep ruby, lovely nose of fresh fruits, beautiful acidity and structure, delightful, long length. I prefer this one over Ducru! 90-92

2010 Las Cases and family

2010 Château Leoville Las Cases;

Deep ruby, intense nose, some floral notes, cassis, complex and refined. Gorgeous texture and structure, fresh and lively and an amazing length. 95-97

2010 Le Petit Lion;

(2nd label) Ruby, elegant texture, some wood in front now, refreshing, some coffee and deeper notes, good length. 88-89

2010 Clos du Marquis;

Deep ruby, elegant and refined, feels very pure, refreshing, almost flirting. 90-92

2010 Cos d'Estournel

2010 Château Cos d'Estournel;

Black!, extracted and massive, the acidity is just able to manage it, huge body, alcoholic finish, vulgar as few, easy to like probably, no refinement what so ever, hopefully there is something in there that will show in the future. For now 92-94

2010 Pagodes de Cos;

(2nd label) Dark, extracted, coffee, dark berries and a bitter touch, masochistic wine. 87-89

2010 Latour with the family

2010 Château Latour;

Deep ruby, deep feel to the nose, complex, refined, massive nose, superbly structured, massive and layered, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very long length. 96-99

2010 Les Forts de Latour;

(2nd label) Deep ruby, complex nose, superb texture, fresh, elegant, alive, probably the best Les Forts ever. 93-94

2010 Pauillac

(3rd label) Deep ruby, paprika, blackcurrants, fresh, lively, slightly rough texture in the finish. 86-87

2010 de Pez

2010 Château de Pez;

Deep ruby, cassis and fruit, rougher texture than most, very pure fruit. 86-88

2010 Haut-Batailley

2010 Château Haut-Batailley;

Deep ruby, spicy nose, mint, good texture, some tight tannins, good length. 88-90

2010 Grand Puy Lacoste

2010 Château Grand Puy Lacoste;

Dark ruby, classic Pauillac nose, ripe style, nicely structured, long length. But it really did not give me quite the same as some wine critics.... 90-92

98 Granbussia

1998 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia;

Garnet with thin brick rim. Starting out vulgarly sweet and felt almost tired, but after ten fifteen minutes starting to smarten up, think a guy, sweating from basketball or football practice, then taking a shower, and smarting up for the evening in a tuxedo. (A Barolo will never be a girl) That was the transformation on this one, acidity sharpened things up, getting maybe not more structured, but more nuanced, more and more refined, more and more layers, ending up with a superb truffle and rose nose. 93

2010 Château Margaux and the family

Some cares less about great wines than others

2010 Château Margaux;

Ruby, floral, pure blackcurrants, violets, roses, layers. So elegant, fresh and mouthwatering acidity, tannins massive and ripe, yet the wine feels elegant and almost velvety already on the palate, superb texture, and incredible length. For me the wine of the vintage (as it was in 09) 97-100

2010 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux;

(2nd label) Ruby, floral, fine tea, easier to taste than the big boy, elegant, complex, superb nose. Freshness is stunning, beautiful acidity, ripe tannins, texture is gorgeous, great length. 93-95

2010 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux;

Pale lemon yellow, fresh, tropical, citrus, minerals. Superb balance, mouthwatering acidity, amazing balance, very long length. 92-94

2010 d'Issan and Blason d'Issan

2010 Château d'Issan;

Deep ruby, floral, elegant, charming, beautiful texture and structure, lively and seductive, pure, long finish. WOW, must be the best Issan ever. 92-94

2010 Blason d'Issan;

(2nd label) Deep ruby, somewhat brighter, fruity, clean, pure, aromatic, elegant texture, ripe tannins, very nice length. 88-89

2000 Alion

2000 Bodegas Alion;

Ruby, towards brick rim, quite intense nose, but not as layered as before, feels more mature. Slightly rustic on the palate, matured far quicker than I suspected from my last bottle (about a year ago), might be somewhat faulty this one..... I also find the oak overshadowing a bit now. This bottle, only 83

2010 Mouton Rothschild and Petit Mouton

2010 Château Mouton Rothschild;

Deep ruby, cassis, coffee, very complex nose, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, beautiful texture, refined, difficult to describe, long finish. A beautiful wine, but still disappointing in this vintage. 94-96

2010 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild:

(2nd label) Deep ruby, cassis, leaner, but very much resembling the big brother, very refreshing and elegant. 89-90

2010 Clerc Milon

2010 Château Clerc Milon;

Deep ruby, cassis, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, classic Pauillac aromas, mouthwatering, best Clerc Milon I've tasted. 93-95

2010 d'Armailhac

2010 Château d'Armailhac;

Deep ruby, cassis, leather, bell peppers, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, long. 91-93

2010 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc & Rouge

2010 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc;

Pale lemon, fresh, lively, intense grapefruit, citrus and minerals, fantastic acidity, superb balance, exceptional length. 95-97

2010 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge;

Deep ruby, tea, spices, cassis and terracotta, perfect balance, lovely freshness, long. 93-95

2010 Carmes HB

2010 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion;

Deep ruby, floral Pessac nose, fresh, somewhat herbal, peppery finish. 88-89

2010 Carbonnieux Blanc & Rouge

2010 Château Carbonnieux Blanc;

Pale lemon, yeast, minerals, apples, citrus, fresh, balanced, good length. 92-93

2010 Château Carbonnieux Rouge;

Deep ruby, fruit driven nose, fresh, slightly rough texture. 87-88

2010 Brown Blanc

2010 Château Brown Blanc;

Pale lemon, tropical, grapefruit, fresh acidity, good length. 89-91

2010 Bouscaut Blanc & Rouge

2010 Château Bouscaut Blanc;

Pale lemon, minerals, citrus, floral high notes, fresh, honey, fat body, good length. 90-92

2010 Château Bouscaut Rouge;

Deep ruby, floral, pepper, vanilla, blackberries, terracotta, nice texture, ripe tannins. 88-89

2010 Phelan Segur

2010 Château Phelan Segur;

Deep ruby, ripe, fresh, some herbs, grippy texture, long. 90-92

2010 Ormes de Pez

2010 Château Ormes de Pez;

Deep ruby, fresh, ripe, chocolate and dark berries, long length. 89-91

2010 Lafon-Rochet

2010 Château Lafon-Rochet;

Deep ruby, elegant fruity, touch of paprika just to make it more nuanced, long finish. 89-91

2010 Cos Labory

2010 Château Cos Labory;

Deep ruby, fresh, firm and fruity, nice texture, long finish. 91-93

2010 Pichon Comtesse

2010 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande;

Deep ruby, layered, sophisticated, lots of structure, beautiful balance, long length. Back on form. 94-96

2010 Pichon Baron

2010 Château Pichon Longueville Baron;

Deep ruby, fresh, elegant, ripe, beautiful texture, long finish. 93-95

2010 Lynch-Moussas

2010 Château Lynch-Moussas;

Deep ruby, herbs, cassis, fresh acidity, ripe tannins. 87-89

2010 Lynch-Bages

2010 Château Lynch-Bages;

Deep ruby, structured, intense, almost massive Pauillac, still manages to be elegant and nicely balanced. 92-94

2010 Haut-Bages Liberal

2010 Château Haut-Bages Liberal;

Deep ruby, lovely freshness, elegant texture and balance, long finish. 90-92

2010 Grand Puy Ducasse

2010 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse;

Deep ruby, fresh, elegant, soft feel and velvety, yet structured, long length. 87-89

2010 Croizet-Bages

2010 Château Croizet-Bages;

Deep ruby, clean, stylistically correct Pauillac, fresh. 90-91

2010 Batailley

2010 Château Batailley;

Deep ruby, good fruit but uninspiring. 86-88

2010 Saint-Pierre

2010 Château Saint-Pierre;

Deep ruby, fresh fruit, lively acidity, elegant texture and body, refreshing finish. 90-92

2010 Leoville Poyferré

2010 Château Leoville Poyferré;

Deep ruby, elegant nose, lacks a bit of intensity on the palate, otherwise fine. 89-91

2010 Leoville Barton

2010 Château Leoville Barton;

Deep ruby, fresh, elegant, beautiful balance, long. 93-95

2010 Langoa Barton

2010 Château Langoa Barton;

Deep ruby, fruity, pure, nicely balanced long finish. 91-93

2010 Lagrange

2010 Château Lagrange;

Deep ruby, elegant and pure, a seldom seductive wine from this estate. 92-93

2010 Gruaud Larose

2010 Château Gruaud Larose;

Deep ruby, intense, yet layered, complex, superb balance, refined, superbly structured as well, fresh and lively, beautiful length. 94-96

2010 Branaire-Ducru

2010 Château Branaire-Ducru;

Deep ruby, pure, elegant, fresh and lively acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 89-91

2010 Beychevelle

2010 Château Beychevelle;

Deep ruby, fresh, lively, pure, fruity, but I would have liked a bit more spark in it, not to sound too spoiled, but for this superb vintage, it feels a bit boring. 88-90

1998 La Clemence

1998 Château La Clemence;

Ruby, spices and quite intense fruit, lively, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 88

98 La Tour HB

1998 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;

Ruby, terracotta, vanilla, berries on the nose, fresh, lively, ripe tannins, mouthwatering, blalanced, pure, long finish. 94

2010 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc

2010 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc;

Pale straw yellow, superb, complex, gorgeous texture, pure and very long indeed. 95-96

2010 Clos Rene

2010 Château Clos Rene;

Deep ruby, fruity and sweet, simple feel to it. 78-79

2010 Vray Croix de Gay

2010 Château Vray Croix de Gay;

Deep ruby, fresh, fruity, good length. 87-89

2010 La Dauphine

2010 Château La Dauphine;

Deep ruby, lively, textured, ripe fruit. 85-86

2010 Cantemerle

2010 Château Cantemerle;

Deep ruby, fresh, lively, elegant. 87-89

2010 Verdignan

2010 Château Verdignan;

Some freshness, easy going. 79-81

2010 Coufran

2010 Château Coufran;

Simple 78-79

2010 Les Ormes Sorbet

2010 Château Les Ormes Sorbet;

Deep ruby, elegant, fruity, long finish. 85-87

2010 Marjosse

2010 Château Marjosse;

Deep ruby, light, balanced, clean, good. 80-82

2010 Meyney

2010 Château Meyney;

Deep ruby, fruity, structured, ripe, lovely balance, nice texture, lots of ripe tannins. 89-91

2010 Bellegrave

2010 Château Bellegrave;

Deep ruby, fresh, lively and fruity. 86-87

2010 Pedesclaux

2010 Château Pedesclaux;

Deep ruby, ripe, fruity, slightly on the sweet side. 88-89

2010 du Glana

2010 Château du Glana;

Deep ruby, fresh, lively, elegant, good length. 89-90

2010 Siran

2010 Château Siran;

Deep ruby, fresh, elegant, ripe, refreshing finish. 88-90

2010 Rauzan-Segla

2010 Château Rauzan-Segla;

Deep ruby, floral, concentrated, great acidity, lively and playful, nice texture, long. 91-93

2010 Rauzan-Gassies

2010 Château Rauzan-Gassies;

Deep ruby, nicely balanced, elegant, on the light side, but a charmer. 88-89

2010 Prieuré-Lichine

2010 Château Prieuré-Lichine;

Deep ruby, a bit vegetal and austere. 87-88

2010 Monbrison

2010 Château Monbrison;

Deep ruby, fruity and simple, a bit short. 82-84

2010 Marquis de Terme

2010 Château Marquis de Terme;

Deep ruby oak, nice fruit behind, good length, enough intensity for the oak? 87-88

2010 Malescot Saint- Exupery

2010 Château Malescot Saint.Exupery;

Deep ruby, fresh, elegant, mouthwatering even, long. 90-92

2010 Lascombes

2010 Château Lascombes;

Deep ruby, lovely fruit, body and structure, beautiful balance. 89-91

2010 Labegorce

2010 Château Labegorce;

Deep ruby, floral, cassis, nice texture, good length. Vanilla finish. 88-90

2010 Kirwan

2010 Château Kirwan;

Deep ruby, nice fruit, but some roughness in the texture. 86-88

2010 Giscours

2010 Château Giscours;

Deep ruby, cassis, pure, intense, beautiful balance, refined and long. 92-94

2010 Ferrière

2010 Château Ferrière;

Deep ruby, floral, cassis, lovely structured, fresh, elegant, real Margaux style, long length. 90-92

2010 Durfort-Vivens

2010 Château Durfort-Vivens;

Seems sweet and extracted. 82-84

Acidity and tannin levels in 2010 Bordeaux

In general, the acidity is high for Bordeaux in the 2010 vintage, making the wines fresh, lively and mouthwatering. As this is the general rule in the vintage, this is not mentioned in every note. The tannins are generally high and ripe, balancing perfectly with the acidity.

2010 du Tertre

2010 Château du Tertre;

Deep ruby, floral, cassis, elegant body and texture, nicely balanced, long finish.

2010 Desmirail

2010 Château Desmirail;

Deep ruby, elegant, perfumed, long and elegant finish. 89-91

2010 Dauzac

2010 Château Dauzac;

Deep ruby, pure, elegant, nice fruit, on the intense side, ripe tannins, slightly worried about extraction, but can turn out very nice. 88-89

2010 d'Angludet

2010 Château d'Angludet;

Deep ruby, fruity, powerful nose, barrique notes, nice fruit behind, long finish. 87-89

2010 Cantenac Brown

2010 Château Cantenac Brown;

Deep ruby, floral notes over cassis and leather, elegant body texture and fruit, nicely balanced. 90-92

2010 Brane-Cantenac

2010 Château Brane-Cantenac;

Deep ruby, floral, cassis, somewhat lean and rustic body and texture, good length. 90-91