Tasting with the owners of the BIG 5 Haut-Brion

A fantastic tasting together with the owners of all the Bordeaux First Growth, every chateau owner presenting two wines. The wines were served alphabeticaly and Haut-Brion was first out with HRH Prince Robert de Luxembourg in great mood.

2005 Château Haut-Brion;
Ruby, violets, minerals, vanilla, plums, cassis, extremely seductive, secretive. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, stunning texture, soft, elegant, refined, amazing length, really needs time. 98

1998 Château Haut-Brion;
Ruby, smoky Pessac notes, leather, fine tobacco, cassis, anise, layered, seductive and astonishing depth. Superb acidity, ripe tannins, amazing balance and refinement, silky texture, flirting, long. 96

Tasting Wine Spectator's 2010 top 10 list

#1 2007 Saxum James Berry Vineyard, Paso Robles;
WS 98 Ruby, ripe, coffee, touch sweet, on the palate just sweet and alcoholic with warm finish. 75

#2 2008 Two Hands Barossa Valley Shiraz, Bella's Garden;
WS 94 Very deep ruby, intense, ripe, plums and boysenberries. Good acidity but feels on the outside (acidified?) ripe tannins, not to long. 86

#3 2008 Peter Michael Ma Belle-Fille, Sonoma County Chardonnay;
WS 97 Pale lemon, popcorn, vanilla, butter. Nice acidity, fatty texture, some alcohol sweetness, good length. 89

#4 2007 Revana St.Helena Cabernet Sauvignon;
WS 95 Ruby, floral, artificial roses and cheap perfume. Good acidity, ripe tannins, strucktured, feels made.... 85

#5 2007 Altamura Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon;
WS 96 Deep ruby, sewwt and ripe, plum jam, alcohol on the nose. Warm, sweet of alcohol, fresh acidity, ripe tannins. 86, if I'm very kind.

#6 2008 Paul Hobbs Russian River Valley Pinot Noir;
WS 94 Ruby, strawberry jam, pepper, cinamon and spices. Good acidity, ripe tannins, almost non excisting, fruit driven, good length. 88

#7 Not tasted

#8 2007 Fontodi, Flaccianello Colli della Toscana Centrale;
WS 95 Ruby, ripe plums, spices, oak on top, coffee and goat cheese. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, structured, mocca, coffee intense finish. 91

#9 2007 CARM Duoro Riserva;
WS 94 Ruby, sweet tobacco, blueberries, licorice and cinamon. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly herbal on the palate, good length. 88

#10 2009 Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc;
WS 94 Pale lemon, yellow fruits, some minerals behind. Lowish acidity, flat feel, for those with special interest. 88

Interesting for a person with a European palate to see how this, an American magazine, preffer so sweet wines, many with to much alcohol to be in real balance....

94 Quinta do Noval Nacional

1994 Quinta do Noval, Nacional;
Ruby with sediments, intense, layered, red and darker berries, coffee, licorice, massive nose. Fresher palate, still intense, high acidity, ripe tannins, hardly any development, long finish. Will become even more fantastic. 95

4 Chefs, matching food and wine.....

This tasting was held by Wine Spectator with four famous chefs preparing the food, and one of the other chefs should match it with wine, and this is also done by Thomas Matthews, excecutive editor of Wine Spectator. Interesting to try, and interesting to see how they can hit and sometimes misses. But with José Andrés comment:'-When you eat, you eat, when you drink, you drink, why match?' you see the kind of attitude that is all about the ego of the chef, and who cares about the custommer.

As a restaurant customer, what you drink is normally as important as the meal itself. Anyone driving and sits at a nice restaurant drinking water, knows how utterly boring even the best dishes get to be. But, do José Andrés really mean it?


Charlie Trotter:
Terrine of Tripe and Maine Lobster with Wild Mushroom Jus and Saffron

Daniel Bouloud's wine:
1993 Viña Tondonia Rioja Reserva White;
Golden, the typical slight oxidation, minerals, oxidized apples, low acidity, a touch rustic finish, still one of the fresher bottles I've had. 86

Thomas Matthews' wine:
2009 Paul Hobbs Richard Dinner Vineyard, Sonoma Mountains Chardonnay;
Pale lemon, slight popcorn, flinty minerals, some flowers, good acidity, fatty texture, good length. 89

To sort of waste the lobsters delicate fragrance with all these ingredients is a bit strange to me, even if the onions gives it freshness and liven it up, the saffron over-shadows the aftertaste. The texture of the dish on the other hand is excellent.

Viña Tondonia complements it nicely on flavours, but barely, with a bit more acidity it would work nicely. The Paul Hobbs works even better on aromas, but the minerality of the wine drowns the allready exhausted lobster even more, and Emeril Lagasse finds it to heavy as well. I can't say I disagree.



José Andrés:
Jamon Iberico de Bellota"Fermin"with Salmon Tartar and Trout Roe

Charlie Trotter's wine;
2006 Soter Vineyards Willamette Valley Brut Rosé; (Sparkling)
Pale pink with small bubbles, artificial strawberries, elegant mousse, OK acidity, short and lean, if refreshing. 75

Thomas Matthews' wine;
Champagne Barons de Rothschild Brut NV;
Pale lemon, tiny bubbles, brioch and apples, elegant mousse, fine acidity, refreshing. 87

Fantastic dish, salty and elegant, the Iberico giving texture and a slightly smoked taste, even nutty, then the roe exploding with licquid and salt, with the salmon tartar dampening the effect being a bridge between the two. The Soter is not to bad on the flavour match, but has no chance otherwise, it feels metallic and lean and just a bit to dry, you need some sweetness with all the salt. Rothschild Champagne works well indeed, blending the flavours of the wine and dish into a new flavour picture, even if a slightly fatter bodied Champagne but without more acidity would probably do even better. How about a Charta Riesling?



Emeril Lagasse:
Stuffed Pig Trotter with Apple-Brussel Sprout Salad and Tangerine Brown Butter Vinaigrette

José Andrés' wine:
Antonio Barbadillo Olorose Jerez Dulce Amoroso San Rafael NV;
Deep amber, heavy minerals, some salt, oxidized. Fresh acidity, sweetness balances well, good length, softer style Oloroso. 88

Thomas Matthew's wine:
2009 Guigal Condrieu;
Pale lemon yellow, lime, minerals, elegant nose. Acidity keeps playing throughout the taste curve, even if never feeling fresh, as always with white Rhône, I'm confused. 85-92?

A bit too stuffed I'm affraid, heavy texture, flavours a bit bland and somehow confusing, to much going on, and in no particular direction. Luckily the vinaigrette is easy going, and even if vinaigrette's normally manages to overshadow everything else completely, this one was refreshing to the otherwise too heavy and compact dish. The sprout is slightly refreshening things up as well, but goes terribly with the wine, absolutely awfull, to green and harsh. The Oloroso working well flavor wise, but overshadows, it's too intense. The Guigal works with the spiciness of the dish, and somehow the acidity that feels like it isn't there manages, just.....



Daniel Bouloud:
Rabbit Porchetta with Chorizo, Porcini, Argula and Hazelnut

Emeril Lagasse's wine:
2009 Joseph Drouhin Morey-St.-Denis;
Ruby, easy. fragrant, strawberries and a touch of spices. Elegant flavours, good acidity, ripe tannins, oak shines through in the finish. 87

Thomas Matthews' wine:
2001 Bodegas Roda Rioja Cirsion;
Deep ruby, dark plums, blueberries, vanilla and licorice. Rich Rioja, towards Baigorri de Garage, but not as complex. Fresh acidity, tannins soft, vanilla in the aftertaste, rich and still elegant, long. 90-91
This dish was exceptional on the balance between fresh and lively, refined in flavours and texture. Very elegant, complex, gorgeous flavours, how you needed to have all the elements of the dish in your mouth at once, or something would be missing. Andrés stated '-Amazing dish.' and Trotter said '-Delicious.' and I can't disagree. Superb. The Drouhin falls totally apart with this dish, doesn't stand a chance, it's totally over shadowed, the Roda works well, maybe on the verge of lean together with the food, but only maybe.

Then Andrés came up with something genious, I'have never heard anybody mention this before. '-Adding ingredient's to a dish, can alter it, even if a small, or bigger amount, it can lift or ruin it. (nothing new so far) It's the same with wine match, a sip, a mouthfull, just wetting the lips, makes the match different.'

So, the Roda, small sip, with the dish, became mineraly, earthy, blending nuances and matching delicately with the dish (still Bouloud's) Bigger sip, more fruit dominated, complement each other, works well, if not as great as the smaller sip.

Thank's to the four chefs and to Wine Spectator for arranging this event, this was my second tasting of this style, and so much better than the one in 2008!

Wine quote

"-I produce red wine, not black wine." Christian Moueix

Wine quote

"-When people ask me what part of Italy my wine is from, I tell them it's from Spain." Pablo Alvarez, owner of Vega Sicilia

Splendid 94 Vega Sicilia Unico

1994 Vega-Sicilia Unico;
Ruby, seductive, plums and blueberries, just a sprinkle of anise, hints of chocolate below, layered, nuanced, one can smell this on forever, just find yourself a nice dekk chair, and you will have the time of your life. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, stunning elegance and refined, violets and lillies with air, flirting, mouthwatering, absolutely stunning, waves of aftertaste. 97 for now.

Tasting with Marchesi Piero Antinori, four 2001's

Tasting of four wines from Antinori, all in the 2001 vintage. All wines directly from the cellars of Antinori. Marchesi Piero Antinori was in good spirit, but I tend to focuse too much on the wine I have in the glass, as I have heard to much sales pitch..... But when you come to these guys, the sales pitch is normally toned down, sometimes non excisting all together, so it's just old habbit... Any way, the wine talks by itself, that's anyway the truth, even if I probably missed out on some good stories.

2001 Antinori Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, Fattoria La Braccesca;
Ruby, brick rim. Coffee, licorice, cherry stone, chocolate, almost dusty oak behind. High acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit, balanced, good length, again some oak in the end, very good now, with less oak, even better. 88

2001 Antinori Chianti Classico Badia a Passignano Riserva;
Ruby, coffee, licorice, cherry stone, chocolate, floral, violets. Elegant acidity, ripe tannins, slightly rustic oak tannins in the back, long length. 90

2001 Antinori Brunello de Montalcino Pian delle Vigne;
Ruby, more coffee, stone fruit, dreir feel on the nose, some violets and dried leaf, cigars. High acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, lovely balance and long length. 91

2001 Antinori Tignanello;
Ruby, rosemary, oregano, tobacco, cherry stone, spicy, more exotic. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, structured, long finish. 91

2010 Flowers Camp Meeting Ridge

2010 Flowers Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Camp Meeting Ridge;
(Barrel sample) Ruby, strawberry jam, minerals, fresh acidity, beautiful texture, ripe tannins but a bit warm at the tip of the long finish. 90. Wine Spectator's Matt Kramer suggest's that this is the best California Pinot he has tasted, it's not the best I've tasted.....

09 Peay Pomarium

2009 Peay, Pomarium, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir;
Ruby, strawberry jam, minerals, pepper and spices. Good acidity, ripe tannins, father texture, good length. 88

09 Littorai, Hirsch Vineyard Pinot

2009 Littorai, Hirsch Vineyard, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir;
Ruby, strawberry jam, floral, sweet but refined nose, layered. Cooler palate than expected, fresh and lively acidity, elegant style, ripe tannins, lovely texture, flirting and a long aftertaste. 92

05 Caymus Special Selection

2005 Caymus Special Selection Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon;
Dark ruby, ruby rim. Morellos, dark plums, cassis with a touch of coffee. Intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body, long finish. Needs time. 92

09 Grivot Clos de Vougeot

2009 Jean Grivot. Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru;
Ruby, closed nose, just strawberries trying to show. Fresh acidity, quite lively palate, oak feels on the outside, ripe tannins, good length. There should be potential here. 91

09 Roumier Morey-St.-Denis

2009 G.Roumier, Morey-St.-Denis, 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière;
Ruby, more floral and nuanced, strawberries, touch of mint and spice, "richer" and more rounded Pinot, elegant acidity, ripe tannins, long. 91

09 Tollot-Beaut Corton Bressandes

2009 Tollot-Beaut, Corton Bresandes Grand Cru;
Ruby, floral, strawberries, touch of herbs, elegant acidity, ripe tannins, just a touch of the slight rusticity I associate with this vineyard, good length. 89-90

09 Clos des Ducs

2009 Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs;
Ruby, ripe strawberries, some barrel notes, spices and red fruits hiding in the back, intriguing nose. Fresh acidity, lovely body and texture, ripe tannins, cinamon, lovely acidity string through the tasting curve, long and very elegant finish. 93

99 Sperrs

1999 Gaja Langhe Sperrs;
Ruby, intense of roses and tar, some anise, starting to open, but also vanilla and oak with more air. High acidity and high of ripe tannins, oak is slightly over-shadowing the finish. Long. 92

Dom Perignon with Richard Geoffroy

It's not every day that one gets to taste wines with people like Richard Geoffroy, but he desided to show four vintages of Dom Perignon at the New York Wine Experience held by Wine Spectator. I have tasted lot's of older Dom Perignon's, and as of tomorrow, even more, but rarely encountered any Oenotheque. This tasting had three! All bottles directly from Moet's cellar's. The Oenothèque bottlings show extreme youth and purity and realy show the importance of provenance and storage. These are serious Champagne's, beyond the "regular" ones.

2002 Dom Perignon;
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Citrus, minerals, green apples. Elegant acidity and mousse, some caramel and yeast with burnt bread underneath in the finish. Long. The most open 02 Dom Perignon I've tasted, and one of the more open 02 prestige cuvee's as well. 94

This is how it feels like to drink the 96 Oenothèque

1996 Dom Perignon Oenothèque;
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Brioch, yeast, oxidized yellow apples, apple peel, rich nose. Beautiful mousse, elegant acidity, beautiful balance, so fresh and lively, gorgeous, generous yet firm, tantalizing and very long finish. 95

This is the feel of the 1990 Oenothèque

1990 Dom Perignon Oenothèque;
Pale lemon yellow, extremelly youthful color, minerals, lime, cooler feel than Cristal, feels sharper and more focused, still youthful aromas, flint, yeast, lime, apples, ripe lemon, exotic flowers, tight, superb balance, so fresh and lively, vigorous if shorter than the 96. 94

This is how you feel when having the 1975 Oenothèque

1975 Dom Perignon Oenothèque;
Pale golden, tiny bubbles, again youthful colour, minerals, smoke, lime, lemon, and again, youthful expression. Exotic flowers, yellow plums and such a purity, WOW! Creamy texture, superb balance, stunning feel, lifted, layered, complex, smooth and seemless texture and structural perfection. Streamlined and an enormous length, wave upon wave. 100


(NB How generous of Moet & Chandon to have pictures describing the wines and their feel available)

Different perspective, wine from superstars!

Wine from superstars can mean different things to different people. On this Saturday in New York, a special tasting took place with some superstars. I had heard of three of them before to be honest.

Christian Moueix, owner of several prestigious Bordeaux estates, amongst them Château Trotanoy was first out. It wasn't actually in quite the same setting, but anyway, the same people were there to taste. Christian, making wine for drinking, took big gulps of his 2005 Trotanoy, and I cant blame him. 2005 Château Trotanoy; Ruby, leather, anise, cinamon, layers of spices and herbs, vanilla, tea hints lingering above, mint. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, elegant palate, long length. 94

In my world, Christian is a superstar. Today talking lot's of fact's, proclaiming how frost is rarely an issue in Bordeaux, but can be so in California, how there are 200-250 berries in a bunch normaly, how one berry weighs in at about one gram, that a dried and shriveled grape (because of draught) way in at 0,7 and one bursting from exsessive water (from rain) weighs in at between 1,4 and 1,6 grams. Fascinating man to listen to.

I have also heard of Greg Norman, golfer. "-I love the way you drink your wine." he said to Christian after seeing how he drank the Trotanoy. When Christian said that he still had a way to go, his father had been drinking two bottles a day, but so far Christian was only doing one, Greg replied asking if anyone had ever answered truthfully at their doctor's, when asked how much they actually drink? He drinks two bottles a day. 2006 Greg Norman Estates Shiraz South Eastern Australia Reserve; Ruby, leather, touch of anise and cinamon in the back, peppered beef, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe and soft tannins, elegant play of slightly sweet dark berries and milk chocolate flavours and the acidity, good length. An elegant Aussie Shiraz! 90

Gregory John Norman AO (born 10 February 1955) is an Australian professional golfer and entrepreneur who spent 331 weeks as the world's Number 1 ranked golfer in the 1980s and 1990s. He is nicknamed The Great White Shark or sometimes simply The Shark – a reference to Norman's blond hair, size and aggressive golf style and the shark inhabiting Australian waters.

Was it here Mr Norman found out that grapes tastes better than grass?

This guy was totally unfamiliar to me, Drew Bledsoe, quarterback of New England Patriots in American football. This is quite a small sport here in Norway, and I know that because my (half-)brother plays it (different genes). Anyway, seeing the gear he wears for practice, it's tough... No. it's on the verge of insane. They say that if one of these guys hits you, meaning runs you down on the field, it's like a truck hitting you at 30 km/h. It's a reason why I drink wine instead.... Was it after one of these collitions he started dreaming of something elegant to drink?
Drew McQueen Bledsoe (born February 14, 1972) is a former football quarterback in the National Football League, best known as the starting quarterback for the New England Patriots from 1993-2001. During the 1990s, he was considered the face of the Patriots franchise. Bledsoe, a Pro Bowler, All-American for the Washington State Cougars and #1 overall draft pick in the 1993 NFL Draft, announced his retirement from the sport on April 11, 2007.

New style Lagare treading in Walla Walla Valley

Expecting a wine as harsh and violent as the sport, finding something completly different.... 2008 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley; Ruby, fresh fruit, spicy, floral and cinamon. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and quite refined texture and structure, quite cool and refreshing, lovely finish. 90

Let's hope they don't do this with wine!

Then a Baseball star, again a tiny, if excisting sport at all here in Norway, with Tom Seaver. George Thomas "Tom" Seaver (born November 17, 1944), nicknamed "Tom Terrific" and "The Franchise", is a former Major League Baseball pitcher. He pitched from 1967-1986 for four different teams in his career, but is noted primarily for his time with the New York Mets. During a 20-year career, Seaver compiled 311 wins, 3,640 strikeouts, 61 shutouts and a 2.86 earned run average. In 1992, he was inducted into the National Baseball Hall of Fame by the highest percentage ever recorded (98.84%), and has the only plaque at Cooperstown wearing a New York Mets hat. As of 2010, Tom Seaver and Gil Hodges (played for the Mets in 1962-63) are the only Met players to have their jersey numbers retired by the team (Gil Hodges' number was retired as a manager even though he also played for the Mets).

2008 GTS Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District Seaver Family Vineyards;
Ruby, sweet plums, blackcurrant's. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweet and quite long finish. This was the simplest wine here, and the most easy going with bunches of ripe fruit. 88

What a wine glass, even if I preffer Riedel....

Theodore Ernest "Ernie" Els (born 17 October 1969) is a South African professional golfer, who has been one of the top professional players in the world since the mid-1990s. A former World No. 1, he is known as "The Big Easy" due to his imposing physical stature (he stands 1.91 metres [6 feet, 3 inches]) along with his fluid, seemingly effortless golf swing. Among his numerous victories are three major championships: the U.S. Open in 1994 at the Oakmont Country Club and 1997 at the Congressional Country Club, and The Open Championship in 2002 at Muirfield.
Other highlights in Els' career include topping the 2003 and 2004 European Tour Order of Merit (money list), and winning the World Match Play Championship a record seven times. He is the leading career money winner on the European Tour, and was the first member of the tour to earn over 25 million Euros from European Tour events. He has held the number one spot in the Official World Golf Rankings and holds the record for weeks ranked in the top ten with over 780. Els was elected to the World Golf Hall of Fame in 2010, on his first time on the ballot, and was inducted in May 2011.
2007 Ernie Els Stellenbosch Signature; Ruby, intense of herbs and nettles over cassis and chocolate. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing, even if some around the table felt it a bit to green on the nose, I admired the freshness, and it's one of the best red's I've ever tried from South Africa. Long length. 91

1974 Cristal

1974 Roederer Cristal;
Golden, few but tiny bubbles. Minerals on nose, didn't find much more, fresh acidity, lively feel, lacks some fruit in this company, still the elegance of Cristal, good length. 88

If you think less of Roederer's Cristal because of some musicians of odd taste in clothing and texts, think again. This was a big eyeopener, these are Champagne's of impeccable elegance and refinement, and truly deserving it's legendary status. Rarely have one vitnessed a style so similar over 30 years, maybe they are a bit more rounded from 85 and older, if that has to do with the older age and maybe a higer dosage back then, I can't tell, but I could enjoy all the fifteen vintages, one glass of each without getting GORD that, for me at least, can occur with several high acidity wines in one evening. (Riesling or Champagne normally).

Cristal is a wine of true elegance, refinement, layers, complexity and impeccable length, and one of the top Prestige Cuvée's in the industry. I look forward to my next bottle.....

A huge thanks to Frank Herfjord and Gard Kverneland, (and others that have helped) to make this evening a possibility, and for letting me join. A splendid evening.

1975 Cristal

1975 Roederer Cristal;
Golden, tiny bubbles. Minerals, apples, harder and tougher style than 76, amazing acidity, even if a bit on the outside, and not fully integrated in the taste curve, youthful expression for it's age, lively, long if slightly hollow finish, I actually find it still needs ageing. Think Picasso Cubist style in a Champagne. 95

76 Cristal

1976 Roederer Cristal;
Golden, paler hue than 78. Rich, minerals, citrus. smokey and tobacco leaves, elegant texture, absolutely gone for one second, talk about non excisting mid palate, but everything is forgiven with such an aftertaste, beautiful, if never as fresh as the 78 or 79, long finish. 95

78 Cristal

1978 Roederer Cristal;
Golden, few bubbles. Mature nose, coffee and minerals, hardly any of those typical oxidative apply notes that are in so many of the aged Champagne's. Elegant mousse, beautiful acidity, citrus, lemon, orange peel, lively and very long, must be a perfect bottle and a surprice for me. 96-97

If the 96 Roederer is the King of the evening, the 79 is the Tsar

The Tsar of the evening

1979 Roederer Cristal;
Rarely have I looked more forward to tasting a wine of my vintage than this one. And it gave even more than I expected..... Golden, tiny bubbles, layered, refined, complex, lemon, orange, minerals, flint, thoroughbred, mouthwatering. Fresh acidity, lively feel and stunning balance, some forest floor, intense and refined to it's finger tips, nuanced, and an imense length, minutes.... 100

1982 Roederer Cristal

1982 Roederer Cristal;
Golden, tiny bubbles, lobster shell, leafy, towards tobacco, but also something more herbal, caramel and ripe lemon. On flavours and texture, quite interesting, but it also fails, beeing a bit hollow mid-palate and somewhat short, especially in this company. 88

I see my fellow tasters have been much more kind to it.....

1985 Cristal

1985 Roederer Cristal;
Golden, tiny bubbles, tobacco, pure yellow apples, minerals, lillys of the valley again. Superb balance, stunning elegance, ripe yet fresh, evolving beautifully in the glass, green asparagus, lovely texture, lively if on the low side acidity for Champagne, long length. I think my best 85 Champagne so far. 96

Not all is well in heaven, 89 and 88 Cristal

After the sublime 96, and the 90 trying to be, there was, I would say, utter disaster. The 1989 Roederer Cristal was oxidized after faulty storage, and one of the bottles I was looking the most forward to, the 1988 Roederer Cristal was corked.

1990 Cristal

1990 Roederer Cristal;
Golden, tiny bubbles, feels quite mature on the nose, also ripe. Rich, minerals, apples, yellow plums, some oxidation, nuts. Fresh mousse, lively acidity, fresher palate than nose suggested, wax, slightly plump finish. 92

It's not bling, but My God it shines..... 96 Cristal

The superb 96, King of the Cristal range this evening

This lobster dish was magnificent with the 96, that match was perfection

1996 Roederer Cristal;
Pale golden, tiny bubbles. Brioch, yeast and minerals, citrus, apples, youthful expression, but more aged than rivaling Salon and Krug of the vintage, layered and complex. Fresh, lively, focused yet rounded, refined and utterly mouthwatering, exceptional length. 98-99

This Champagne is a serious contender for the Champagne of the vintage in my book.

To bling or not to bling, Cristal 99

1999 Roederer Cristal;
Pale golden, minerals, some oxidized pears, sea and seawead again, but firmer and tighter, call it cooler than the 00, intense palate, slightly steely aftertaste, long. 92

To bling or not to bling, Cristal 02 and 00

St Jacques is rarely wrong, beautiful with Ponzo Sauce

Time for the 02 again, have it opened up? Will it reveal itself a bit more?

2002 Roederer Cristal;
Strawellow, tiny bubbles. Minerals, flint, apples, yeast, lemon, lime, more open and nuanced now than ever before. Stunning texture and structure, like layered veils, superb elegance, refined, stunning finish. 95

2000 Roederer Cristal;
Straw with tiny bubbles, flinty, smokey, intense of rainy sea front morning, seaweed and ripe citrus. Fresh and elegant, but feels a bit short and ungraceful after the 02. 89

To bling or not to bling, 30 years of Roederer Cristal 1974-2004

I had high expectations for this tasting, but was also slightly worried, Cristal being a Champagne that altough very good indeed, have rarely excited me imensely. It's been a journey, somewhat like my Biondi-Santi journey, of utter dissapointment when tasting it the first time, because it didn't deliver what I thought it would. Both are far more elegant, nuanced, layered, secretive and seductive, and I started to see that with Cristal when I last tasted the 02 last summer and a 99 two years back. All that I had tasted before, especially the 02 that I have tasted many times since my inicial tasting of it at Sherry-Lehman's on Park Avenue (if I remember correctly, I think that was at it's launch (in October 08)) and tasted it steadily since have been lean and felt extemely closed, even kind of empty.

Not so this evening. First the 04.

2004 Roederer Cristal;
Straw yellow, tiny bubbles, extremely closed first, flinty minerals with air, refined palate, superb mousse, acidity fine and well integrated for Champagne, lively and very elegant. Oosing of lillys of the valley (Convallaria Majalis) with touches of lime and orange peel behind. Seems to loose some acidity and mousse after a while.... 93

99 Pontet-Canet

1999 Château Pontet-Canet;

Ruby, pure and clean Pauillac nose, refined and layered, tobacco, cassis, leather. On the verge of showing age, easier to enjoy now than last year, starting to reach peak if you like the youthful fruit, but will easily last another ten years. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant finish. 91

05 Moulinet

2005 Château Moulinet;

Ruby, elegant black- and blueberries with some chocolate. Balanced, nice freshness to it, medium acidity, ripe and smooth tannins, easy going and easy drinking, but in no way boring, fine length. 89

07 Les Clos

2007 J. Moreau & FilsChablis Grand Cru Les Clos;

Straw yellow, minerals, lime, focused and narrow wine. Lively and fairly high acidity, at least it feels high with the wines tightness for the moment, long length. 92

03 Castelneau de Suduiraut

2003 Castelneau de Suduiraut;

(2nd label Ch Suduiraut) Golden, heavy botrytis and vanilla, fatty texture, could have more acidity, good length. One of the better and more reliable second labels in Sauternes, but lacks some freshness in 03. 87

95 Belgrave

1995 Château Belgrave;

Ruby, feels extracted and alcoholic, not that fresh acidity and lacks backbone to it. Short as well. 85

94 Croizet Bages

1994 Château Croizet Bages;

Ruby, dry, leather, rustic, heavy of coffee. Fresh acidity, good texture, slightly drying on the finish, a bit short. One of those never exciting Bordeaux'. 84

71 Canon-La-Gaffelière

1971 Château Canon-La-Gaffelière;

Ruby, broad brick rim, licorice, intense, leather and prunes, mature, gorgeous nose. Superb elegance, flirting and seductive (if you like really mature wines) but with a slightly dusty finish. Leaner style, surprisingly nice to be honest. 88

96 La Louviere Rouge

1996 Château La Louviere Rouge;

Ruby, bell peppers, starting to mature, oaky notes still, tobacco and minerals. Slightly on the lean and rustic side. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly hollow mid palate, balanced and good length. 86

04 La Louviere Blanc

2004 Château La Louviere Blanc;

Pale golden, rich and intense, smokey Pessac minerals, still some vanilla from the barrel, good acidity, balanced, good length. Drink soon in my book. 88

08 Ch Couhins Blanc

2008 Château Couhins Blanc;

Pale golden, intense yet elegant nose, citrus and minerals, very fresh and elegant texture, complex, balanced and very long. 91

04 Château Laville Haut-Brion

2004 Château Laville Haut-Brion;

Pale golden, rich and complex, intense minerals, honey and ripe notes. Fresh acidity, ripe and rich mouth-feel, balanced, intense and long, layered, feels closed even when it gives this much, stunning finish. 95

(NB Laville HB is no longer made, since the 2007 vintage it's been renamed Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc)

96 SHL Blanc

1996 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc;

Lemon golden, minerals, tropical and marzipan. Fresh acidity, leaner body than the nose suggest, mature, smokey, beeswax, not a style for everyone, long length. 90

2008 SHL Blanc

2008 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc;

Pale golden, creamy, minerals, citrus, tropical and yellow fruits on the nose. Intense and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe, creamy texture married with beautiful freshness, very long indeed. 94

09 Cantelys Blanc

2009 Château Cantelys Blanc;

Pale golden, fruit driven and minerals, citrus. Fresh acidity, balanced and lovely texture, good length. 87

89 Château Latour

1989 Château Latour;

Another late bottle release bottle from the Latour cellars in 2005. Ruby, more tight knit than the first bottle, somewhat less developed, but overall very similar in texture, a gorgeous and flirting Pauillac with the same fantastic length. 98

07 Plantiers Haut-Brion

2007 Plantiers de Haut-Brion;

(2nd wine of Haut-Brion Blanc) Golden, deep minerals and quite intense nose. Complex with great acidity and balance, lively and slightly fatty texture. Very long length. Drink this one soon, as these, for some strange reason, seem never to last that well, even if the components in the wine make you feel that way. 93

96 Palmer

1996 Château Palmer;

Ruby, starting to show it's future now, elegant Margaux style, floral and seductive, fresh and lively acidity, mouthwatering, tannins are ripe and elegant, flirting texture, a phrase never used before I think, long length. A seducer. 95

00 Conseillante

2000 Château La Conseillante;

Ruby with floral and raspberry notes on the nose, gorgeous purity, refined, refreshing and youthful, and still a bit tight, needs a few years still, even if oh so seductive. 94

89 Château Latour

1989 Château Latour;

Late bottle release, from the Latour cellar in 2005. Ruby, outstanding nose, starting to show some development on the nose, a great Pauillac on the elegant side, both for the vintage and for Latour, elegant and truly refined. Superb balance, beautiful acidity, ripe tannins, perfect texture, immensely long, minutes of aftertaste. 98

06 L'Evangile

2006 Château L'Evangile;

Ruby, fresh, lively, elegant, nice fruit, drinking well already with air, medium acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 91

96 Billecart-Salmon

1996 Billecart-Salmon Grande Cuvée;

Pale golden, elegant bubbles. Apples, minerals, citrus, brioch. Beautiful mousse, more easy going and open than Charles Heidsieck, refreshing, lively and good length. 92

This one was served as an after snack, after the Port's. I have to say I much more enjoy Champagne during- and after the meal, than as an aperitif. On an often empty stomach when you arrive for dinner or a gathering, I find it to lean and acidic. I find that as an aperitif, white wine does the job much better for me. The bottle above was a perfect ending for a perfect evening. Thank you KK!