One suzukii you do not want

At a recent Barone Ricasoli winemaker’s dinner, Baron Fransesco Ricasoli talked about the fruit fly Drosophila suzukii had turned up in his vineyards this year, and made themselves noticed. This insect was discovered in Japan in the early parts of the twentieth century but have travelled the world fairly recently. The fly was discovered in the USA in 2008 and have also been found in Italy, France, Belgium and Spain. Fruit flies are not uncommon, but this one attacks healthy and ripe fruit. 

In the vineyards of Ricasoli it attacked Sangiovese as the grapes were almost bursting with water after a wet season, an unusually wet season that is. Cabernet Sauvignon with its thicker skin was not affected. The female has a prominent ovipositor so it can cut into healthy fruit skins seemingly with more ease than other species, so they don’t need to wait for the berries to start rotting. This makes this fly a pest and they can spread very quickly. Each female can lay 300 eggs and there can be as much as 13 generations in one year. One upside is that the males seem to become sterile in excess temperatures of 30 degrees C, but the down side is that the insects can live for 300 days without fruit to feed on. The baron said the fruits got a stinky smell like vinegar once affected and that they got a strange look. 

 

According to UCDavies, the fly is mostly attacking ripening raspberries, blackberries and strawberry crops, but has been observed occasionally attacking plums, apricots, plumcots, nectarines and figs. Now also grapes. There seems to be quite a few new insects to worry about for the wine lover these days, they are not new but they live places they haven't been before. Travelling wine killers. 

For further reading:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/EXOTIC/drosophila.html

Castello di Brolio winemakers dinner.

4473601
Torricella 2012
Toscana, Italia Pale lemon yellow. Apples, light tropical notes, some peach on the nose, not too intense. Fresh acidity, slightly bitter and quite phenolic, bit hollow, citrusy finish. kr 199,- (Bestilling)

83 poeng
Vinarius AS

1556901
Ricasoli Chianti 2013
Toscana, Italia Bright ruby. Lightly scented, dark berries, light liquorice note nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, leaner, fruity, some berries, easy going. kr 139,90 (Basis)
82 poeng
Vinarius AS

69901
Brolio Chianti Classico 2012
Toscana, Italia Ruby. Liquorice, cherries, lightly scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, fresh, fairly elegant structure and fruit. kr 159,90 (Basis)
84 poeng
Vinarius AS

4509001
Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2011
Toscana, Italia Ruby. Scented, some cherries, anise, light floral note nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cherries, liquorice, light herbal note, bit lean finish. kr 184,- (Basis)
86 poeng
Vinarius AS

9070701
Barone Ricasoli Casalferro 2010
Toscana, Italia Ruby. Ripe, rich, blueberries, scented, dark fruits. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, ripe, rich and fruity, little bit dry in the finish, cherries finish. Little bit warm. Passer til: Storfe. kr 319,- (Bestilling)
87 poeng
Vinarius AS

9070601
Barone Ricasoli Colledilà 2010
Toscana, Italia Bright ruby. Liquorice, cherries, light ripe plums note, floral, quite seductive nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded, fresh, fairly detailed, good length. kr 319,- (Bestilling)
88 poeng
Vinarius AS

4198701
Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 2011
Toscana, Italia Bright ruby. Scented, red berries, elegant nose, liquorice, light violets note, elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, playful and elegant texture, somewhat firmer finish, give it two hours in decanter or more, long. Passer til: Lam og sau, Storfe. kr 299,50 (Bestilling)
92 poeng
Vinarius AS

4198701
Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 2010
Toscana, Italia Bright ruby. Somewhat fuller nose, liquorice, cherries, morellos, scented, quite rich nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, fuller bodied, ripe cherries and liquorice, bit firmer finish. Decant it for two hours or more. Passer til: Lam og sau, Storfe. kr 299,50 (Bestilling)
91 poeng
Vinarius AS

4198701
Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 2007
Toscana, Italia Deep ruby. Liquorice, hung meat, coffee, intense cherries, quite seductive nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, sweet dark berries, some liquorice, little bit herbal and rougher finish, decant it for an hour. Passer til: Storfe. kr 299,50 (Bestilling)
89 poeng
Vinarius AS

869601
Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 2000
Toscana, Italia Ruby, garnet rim. Liquorice, figs, prunes, some violets, mints, evolving nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, intense, fruity, ripe but also a bit firm texture, bit woody finish, fruit can't fully handle it. Decant it for an hour, maybe more. Passer til: Lam og sau. kr 315,- (Bestilling)
88 poeng
Vinarius AS

9814802
Castello di Brolio Vin Santo 2006
Toscana, Italia Golden with amber hue. Apricots, dried fruits, almonds, hazel nuts, ever so slightly of caramel. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, playful and clean, some almonds and dried apricots again, lively finish for Vin Santo. Long. kr 279,- (Bestilling)
91 poeng
Vinarius AS

Siden jeg nå er utestengt av fullstendig latterlige årsaker av Vin-Forum på facebook, kanskje av en som ikke ønsker at jeg skal pirke mer i noe som åpenbart er ett dypt sår, så finner dere som er interessert meg her. Her blir det ikke rare dialogen dessverre men noen av dere finner meg på vanlig facebook. Vin-Forum kan jeg neppe komme tilbake til når det er drevet av såpass useriøse aktører. Takker for følge, da blir aktiviteten her en helt annen fremover.

Excellent Roagna vertical tasting, Crichët Pajé going back to ultra rare 1988

A grand Roagna tasting in Oslo a few weeks back, some excellent wines, showing real finesse and details, and that one doesn't have to make big and high alcohol levels wines from Nebbiolo. One can focus on refinement and nuances instead. Lovely flight. 

Roagna Barbera d'Asti 2011
Ruby. Scented, red berries nose, fruit driven nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fruity, lively. 85 

Roagna Dolcetto d'Alba 2012
Piemonte, Italia Ruby. Scented, ripe dark berries, quite intense nose, almost seductive. Freshish acidity, ripe tannines, fruity palate, rounded. kr 179,90 (Bestilling)
85
Unico Real Wines AS

Luca Roagna Langhe Rosso 2012
Piemonte, Italia Bright ruby. Red berries, light tar note, roses on the noe. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity and detailed, firm and focused, red berries finish, good length. kr 169,90 (Bestilling)
87
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Langhe Rosso 2008
Piemonte, Italia Bright ruby, brick rim. Scented, red berries, liquorice, detailed nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, lively, sweet morellos, red berries, stone from stone fruits, good length. kr 249,90 (Bestilling)
87
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barolo 2008
Piemonte, Italia Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, dark fruits, anise, tight nose even with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, ripe and fruity, somewhat fleshy, ripe morellos, liquorice, little bit warm finish. kr 339,90 (Bestilling)
88
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti 2008
Piemonte, Italia Bright ruby, garnet rim. Highly scented, intense, layered nose, anise, intriguing, not that easy to describe, seductive. Fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins, ripe, intense, fresh and detailed, nuanced and layered, long. kr 699,90 (Bestilling)
94
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti 2009
Piemonte, Italia Ruby, garnet rim. Leather, cherries, anise, roses, detailed nose, not quite as seductive as it's older brother. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, fresh, little bit fuller bodied, red berries finish, long.
93
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti 2008
Piemonte, Italia Bright garnet. Coffee, intense nose, scented, liquorice, plums and morellos. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, ripe and fruity, rich, intense, layered and mouthwatering, long. kr 699,90 (Bestilling)
94
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti 2008
Piemonte, Italia Pale garnet. Tar, roses, cherries, intense, scented, liquorice behind. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, ripe, rich, fruity, intense, layered and detailed, nuanced and long. kr 699,90 (Bestilling)
94
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti 2008
Piemonte, Italia Pale ruby. Scented, anise, cherries, liquorice, red berries, floral nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, ripe and intense palate, fruity, detailed and nuanced, liquorice and leather, long finish. kr 699,90 (Bestilling)
94
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti 2009
Piemonte, Italia Bright garnet. Scented, floral, roses, violets, red berries, elegant nose, seductive. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, rounded, fruity, long.
91
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 2005
Piemonte, Italia 1650 bottles made. Garnet. Intensely scented, anise, roses, violets, red berries, flirting nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, ripe, red berries, layered, seductive and long.
93
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 2002
Piemonte, Italia 1000 bottles made. Bright ruby, scented, ripe nose, liquorice, roses, red berries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, ripe, fruity, leaner, detailed, nuanced, long. 

90
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Pajé 2001
Piemonte, Italia 1200 bottles made. Highly intense, scented, floral, anise, light tar note, layered nose, seductive. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, ripe, fruity, intense, sweet morellos, liquorice, long. 

93
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 2000
Piemonte, Italia 2000 bottles made. Ruby, thin garnet rim. Leather, scented, slightly dusty nose, cherries. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, fresh, red berries, intense and ripe, fruity, long. 

92
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 1999
Piemonte, Italia 2400 bottles made. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Scented, minerals, anise, violets and red berries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, ripe, fruity, firm, textured, needs time still to polish the texture, give it ten years, long. 

94
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 1988
Piemonte, Italia 120 bottles reconditioned and released September 2011. Brick. Scented, cherries, anise, floral, detailed, lovely nose, maturing. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, intense, fresh, detailed, scented, focused, long. 

94
Unico Real Wines AS

Roagna Barbaresco Paje Riserva 1998
Piemonte, Italia 480 bottles made. Garnet, brick rim. Tar and roses, scented, detailed and layered nose, seriously seductive. High acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, detailed, layered, intense and long, detailed. Superb. kr 1 099,90 (Bestilling)
96 poeng
Unico Real Wines AS 

Good Ordinary 1958 Barolo

Some thoughts on the Norwegian fine wine market. In England they have Good Ordinary Claret, a wine name I simply love. You may even find Extra Ordinary Claret. In my market, Norway, we used to drink ordinary claret as well, sometimes good, sometimes probably not as good. Claret was what you could get here for at least two hundred years. If you drank red wine, it was likely to be ordinary Bordeaux. You could get the great stuff as well; Lafite was prominent on menus from the late 19^th century. The odd Burgundy could show up as well.

Italian wines have been a much more recent phenomenon, the broad selection have arrived after 1995. So one wonders how 1961 Barolo is so much more widely available here than 1961 Bordeaux that is still widely available, relatively at least, almost everywhere. Well available, these vintages of Nebbiolo is not for sale much at the Monopoly, actually has never been in most if not all cases. A 1958 Giacomo Conterno Barolo are so widely tasted by some people that they are only mentioned in a sideline together with say a 1961 Gaja Barbaresco or a 1958 Rinaldi Barolo. The description is down to a good bottle, not as good as the bottle two days ago or something like that. Today one states as follows; “Of the Nebbiolo’s, the 61 and 58 G. Mascarello and 70 G Rinaldi impressed”. That’s all he could be bothered with writing about these common wines. But they do write full notes on a 2010 Burgundy 1er Cru, even if it’s available at the Monopoly, and should therefore be less of a rarity. These old bottles are popped and poured seemingly daily, while Bordeaux of similar age is hardly ever seen. In any market, at least where wine is not made, Bordeaux should always be the most prominent, the one most tasted, simply because they make more wine, at least when you talk of old vintages. 

For years and years now a never ending supply of old wines from Piedmont have reached the lips of thirsty Norwegians, there seems to be an unlimited supply, like a fountain were you can get more all the time. And the tasting notes used to be so common that you saw them nearly every day. Last winter there was a comment in Decanter from one of the buyers at BBR I think it was, in London, which stated that old Piedmontese wines were difficult to get. BBR should go to Norway then. In the last issue of Decanter (October 2014) Maureen Downey, states that “Rudy’s (Rudy Kurniawan, a fine wine fraudster) wines are in ridiculously good shape for their age. As a result, the entire nascent Asian market, and all the US collectors who have only really gotten into old and rare wines in the past 12 years, incorrectly expect old wines to look new, unblemished and shiny with high fills, dark colour and youthful corks”. Maureen is one of the world’s foremost experts on faked wines.  

Many of the Norwegian bottles are described as youthful. A youthful 1961 Gaja was drunk a week or so back and described as could withstand another fifty years of ageing. I didn’t taste it, but this is not an uncommon remark made by those who do. If they decide to describe it further or fully at all. These are not once in a lifetime wines here.  Further many have very high fill, which is actually pointed out quite often that these wines have much higher fill than similarly old Bordeaux, the rare times Bordeaux is opened next to them. Further on there are some unblemished labels to be seen, looks fresher than the latest release of the same wine, fifty years younger. 

When I taste similarly old Piedmontese wines, I have hardly used the description of youthful, tired or tiring is more common. But whatever the source, be it the real stuff, a mix or fraud, there simply is so much to go around, and has been for  years now, maybe even more. In Norway we have Good Ordinary 1958 Barolo.