2017 is now firmly part of history
and with 7826 wines tasted in 2017, it has been a busy year. But two wines have
already seen 96 points in 2018! Highlights of the year other than specific
wines?
-My first trip to the Rhône Valley,
and my first really close look on several wines from this valley side by side.
Some stunning stuff made here. I knew that from before, but I still get to
taste very few of these lovelies.
-A brilliant trip to Douro, yes, I’ve
been there before, but my is this place breathtaking!
-I was intronised as a Commander of the Order of Bontemps during
Vinexpo, a huge honour, I am very grateful!
-Being quoted for the primeur
campaign of estates like La Conseillante, Haut-Bailly, Pape Clemet and the
other estates of Bernard Magrez, Lagrange, Belgrave and several others. I am humble
and deeply honoured.
I am so thankful to all wine
producers and wine collectors who open their doors and invite me in for
fantastic tastings. It is a magic world to be taking part of.
No barrel samples from the lovely 2016 vintage of Bordeaux and Burgundy on this list, just because I just wanted bottled wines. Some stunning wines made in both regions.
No barrel samples from the lovely 2016 vintage of Bordeaux and Burgundy on this list, just because I just wanted bottled wines. Some stunning wines made in both regions.
Top 6 Bordeaux from 2017
1945 Château Haut-Brion
Ruby, brick rim. Tobacco, leather, minerals, anise, some mint, figs and prunes nose. Rosemary and thyme. The nose is stunning, just ads layers. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, structure getting softer, some leather, anise, lighter, elegant texture, lovely balance, playful, not that intense, yet just have layers of refined silky notes, long. 97
Ruby, brick rim. Tobacco, leather, minerals, anise, some mint, figs and prunes nose. Rosemary and thyme. The nose is stunning, just ads layers. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, structure getting softer, some leather, anise, lighter, elegant texture, lovely balance, playful, not that intense, yet just have layers of refined silky notes, long. 97
1959 Château Latour
Ruby. Dark fruits, anise, cassis, fruity, ripe, blackberries, some leather and minerals, almost a stony touch. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, blueberries, anise, detailed, structured, firmer yet enough fruit to pack it all in. Long. 99
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild
Ruby, garnet rim. Blueberries, some
anise, floral, fruity, detailed, layered, nuanced, playful, seductive, stunning
nose, absolutely gorgeous nose. Touch of mint, tobacco, incredible nose. Fresh
acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, anise, blueberries, spices, tobacco, cigars,
figs anise, blackberries, lively, nuanced, layered, intense, stunning fruit and
balance, minerals, exotic fruits, playful, magic. 100
1989 Château Margaux
Ruby, garnet rim. Scented,
blueberries, some cassis and figs, intense, layered and nuanced, floral,
stunning nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, red berries, anise, floral, figs
and dates behind, layered, minerals, stunning balance and never ending finish,
magic. 100
1989 Château Lafite Rothschild
Magnum. 3 hours in decanter. Ruby.
Floral, scented, red berries, cherries, cassis, elegant and refined, touch of
cedar and tobacco behind, not the most up front but such layers. Highly
seductive. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant, detailed, layered, playful,
nuanced, superb balance, layers of fruit and freshness to back it up in such a
balanced and refined way, superb length, stunning. Filigree. 100
1989 Château Latour
Magnum. 3,5 hours in decanter. Ruby.
Cassis, blueberries, firmer nose, tight, nuanced, layered, some black tea
notes, opens up with some floral notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, anise,
figs, cassis, intense, layered, deeper, dense, has depth and power, very long
finish. 99
Top 5 red Burgundies tasted in 2017
2010 Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée
Bright ruby. Scented, red berries,
just a touch of sous bois, exotic spices, nuanced, detailed, layered, amazing
nose, just layers. Just starting figs and Christmas spices far in the back.
Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, bright, fruity, spices, playful, nuanced, exotic
spices, really broadened up since last bottle, superb body and texture,
excellent. Liquid magic. 100
2009 Comte de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares
Bright ruby. Scented, red berries,
some darker fruits, floral, nuanced, layered, leaps out of the glass, unusual
depth, faint mint touch, liquorice, violets, magic nose. Fresh acidity, ripe
tannins, fruity, red berries, anise, some spices, anise, juicy and refreshing,
quite full bodied, detailed, structured, incredible length, raspberries,
liquorice and strawberries, just layers. Served blind, I guessed 2009,
Musigny and Comte Vogüé. 98
2014 Armand Rousseau Chambertin
Bright ruby. Red berries, some
spices, fresh, scented, floral, nuanced, detailed, pure and layered. Fresh
acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, detailed, nuanced and refreshing,
mouthwatering even. Stunning length. 98
2013 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche
Bright ruby. Tight, some herbs,
spices, vanilla, red berries and deeper fruits notes, tight, violet touches
with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, tight, closed, red berries and again
darker fruits notes, vanilla and spices, long, very long finish. 97
2014 Domaine Leroy Richebourg
Bright ruby. Scented, red fruity,
elegant, nuanced, refined, fresh and bright nose, layers, some darker fruits.
Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, bright fruity, nuanced, layered,
refreshing, pure, bright and transparent, long indeed. 96
Top sweet of 2017
2001 Château Suduiraut
Golden. Apricot, peach, fruity,
vanilla, some spices, intense and detailed nose, layered. Fresh acidity,
fruity, apricots, peach, light spicy note, layered, touch of cinnamon, intense
and deep, superb balance and texture, long. 98
…and runner up…
1976 Château d'Yquem
Deep golden-orange. Rich, caramel, ripe, massive nose, crème brulée, burnt sugar, extremely rich nose, deep. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, overripe berries, anise, spices, rich, fruity, intense, caramel, almost a burnt touch, butterscotch, long. 97
Deep golden-orange. Rich, caramel, ripe, massive nose, crème brulée, burnt sugar, extremely rich nose, deep. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, overripe berries, anise, spices, rich, fruity, intense, caramel, almost a burnt touch, butterscotch, long. 97
Top 3 dry whites of 2017
2015 Bouchard Montrachet
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, fruity. Minerals, vanilla, spices, detailed, transparent yet fuller nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, detailed, playful, rounded, fresh apples, spices, layered, stunning length, superb balance. 98
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, fruity. Minerals, vanilla, spices, detailed, transparent yet fuller nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, detailed, playful, rounded, fresh apples, spices, layered, stunning length, superb balance. 98
2012 Bouchard Montrachet
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals,
lemons, fruity, vanilla, intense nose, some spices, faint peach touch, acacia
note. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, apples, minerals, detailed, nuanced,
apples, all facets of citrus, properly long. 97
2009 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus,
lemons, some candied lemons notes, vanilla and spices, minerals, touch smoky
nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity, apples, pears, minerals, some vanilla,
intense and concentrated, incredible length, this one just goes on and on. 97
Top two American wines of 2017
1999 Screaming Eagle
Ruby. Scented, fruity, bright red fruity and lush dark fruits nose, thyme, rosemary and other Mediterranean notes, reminds me of the 94 I had several years ago. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, bright red and dark fruity, spices, layered and detailed, stunning length. Very scented. 97
Ruby. Scented, fruity, bright red fruity and lush dark fruits nose, thyme, rosemary and other Mediterranean notes, reminds me of the 94 I had several years ago. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, bright red and dark fruity, spices, layered and detailed, stunning length. Very scented. 97
2001 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23
95,9CS 3,8M 0,3PV Ruby. Tobacco,
some anise, blueberries, touch of plums and figs, violets, cedar, cigars,
detailed, layered, refined nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, dark
berries and spices, anise, cassis, blueberries, cigars, minerals, tobacco,
layered and nuanced, incredible length, never ending. Decant this one, it just
keeps on building, hour after hour. 97
Best Australian wine of 2017
2012 Penfolds Grange
Ruby. Dark fruits, spices, red
berries, intense, anise, vanilla and spices, detailed, layered nose. Fresh
acidity, ripe tannins, ripe, rich, intense, detailed, some spices, liquorice,
long. 97
The best Spanish wine of 2017
2005 Vega Sicilia Unico
Ruby. Blackberries, some exotic
spices, layered, deep, floral, scented, nuanced, so detailed yet so subdued,
layered, touch of mint and fine leather, incredible nose. Fresh acidity, ripe
tannins, red berries, blackberries, detailed, nuanced, refined, juicy,
refreshing, incredible balance and body, long. 97
Best Italians, been fewer of these than usual in 2017.
1995 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino
Ruby, garnet rim. Tar, roses, fruity, cherries, anise, liquorice, intense nose, rich and ripe, some alcohol. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, dark berries, anise, liquorice, spices, anise, long. 95
Ruby, garnet rim. Tar, roses, fruity, cherries, anise, liquorice, intense nose, rich and ripe, some alcohol. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, dark berries, anise, liquorice, spices, anise, long. 95
1993 Gaja Costa Russi
Bright ruby, thin garnet rim.
Cherries, liquorice, tar, roses, somewhat deeper and fuller nose, fairly rich.
Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, cherries, anise, some spices,
liquorice, playful and lively, detailed, long. 95
Best Austrian wine
2000 Nikolaihof Riesling Vinothek
Towards lemon yellow. Apples, fresh,
fruity, some yellow fruits, detailed and elegant nose. Fresh acidity, fresh, fruity,
apples, some minerals, detailed, refreshing, playful, some bitter notes, long
and intense. 95
Best of Germany
2006 Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling
Trockenbeerenauslese
Golden with orange hue. Raisins,
apricots, vanilla (not from barrels), fairly intense, honey, cloudberries,
nuanced, layered and detailed. Fresh acidity, smooth, scintillating, playful,
rich, ripe, nuanced, creamy, cloudberry cream, sultanas, apricots, superb
balance, detailed, layered, absolutely gorgeous. Stunning length. Magic
in a bottle. 98
Oldest wine tasted in 2017…..
1882 Graham's Ne-Oublie Very Old Tawny Port
656 bottles made. Brown with
golden-yellow-green rim. Leather, some anise, figs, dates, floral, nuanced,
light mahogany touch, almonds and marzipan, elegant, refined, layered nose.
Fresh acidity, refreshing, playful, detailed, lively, concentrated, dried
fruits, faint caramel touch, layered, beautiful balance, faint candied citrus
touch. Long. 98
….and also sharing the spot with this one as the greatest fortified.
2007 Dow's Vintage
Ruby. Blackberries, blueberries,
raspberries, nuanced, detailed nose, elegant, scented, refreshing nose, light
spices, intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, dark berries,
anise, spices, detailed, nuanced, very elegant, playful, layers of dark fruits,
very long. 98
Oldest Champagne
1961 Bollinger Rare Année
Magnum. Served blind. Golden. Some oxidative notes, yellow fruits, nuts, elegant if very mature, some caramel notes. Fresh acidity, elegant minerals note, lovely balance if again oxidative, smooth mousse, narrower caramel finish. Long. Verging on too old. 93
Magnum. Served blind. Golden. Some oxidative notes, yellow fruits, nuts, elegant if very mature, some caramel notes. Fresh acidity, elegant minerals note, lovely balance if again oxidative, smooth mousse, narrower caramel finish. Long. Verging on too old. 93
Top 5 from Champagne
1995 Krug Clos du Mesnil
Pale lemon yellow. Detailed nose,
brioche, citrus, minerals, fresh, bright, touch of oysters, lemons and green
apples nose. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, fresh, detailed, minerals, focused,
nuanced, long and playful, stunning balance, long. 96
1988 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz Brut
Golden. Nuts, brioche, some smoky
notes, minerals, detailed, layered, some apples, stunning nose. Fresh acidity,
fresh mousse, fruity, minerals, spices, smoky, some nuts, detailed, refreshing
and nuanced, brilliant expression, layered and long. Beautiful. 96
1995 Krug Vintage
Served blind. Towards straw yellow.
Apples, massive brioche, intense, minerals, some nuts, rich citrus nose, leaps
out of the glass. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, fresh, fruity, elegant,
detailed, citrus, flinty, very intense, very long indeed. 96
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut
Cuvée 164 (2008 base wine) Pale
lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, brioche, oysters, bright, intense, touch of
pears, nuanced, brighter expression, almost transparent yet intense. Fresh
acidity, fresh, fruity, apples, lime, lemons, tighter mousse, nuanced,
detailed, playful, a firmer Grande Cuvée with refinement and nuances. Beautiful
length. 96
2004 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, fresh,
fruity, some minerals, light flinty notes nose, detailed, brioche nose. Fresh
acidity, fruity, minerals, apples, brioche, nuanced, layered, intense,
detailed, long. 96
Coolest wine to have tasted from my vintage in 2017…
1979 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux
Golden. Fruity, rounded, peach, minerals, smoky, spices and honey nose. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, peach, minerals, some smoky notes, long. 92
....and especially this one....
Golden. Fruity, rounded, peach, minerals, smoky, spices and honey nose. Fresh acidity, ripe, fruity, peach, minerals, some smoky notes, long. 92
....and especially this one....
1979 Château
Tertre Roteboeuf
In neck fill. Ruby with brick
rim. Scented, truffles, figs, dates, wild strawberries, charming, almost
Burgundian nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, anise, truffles, figs,
dates, again wild strawberries, beautiful, refined, surprisingly intense. No
new wood this vintage. A very special moment indeed. Francois always ask me if
there is an older vintage I would like to taste. So I said, yes, my vintage.
1979. Oh, what a good idea he answered, I haven’t tasted in a while. It was my
second vintage. You know, we were very poor then. No new barrels. Miloute came
and joined in and the two looked at each other with a gentle look, you could
tell it was a lot of memories that was rushing by in their minds. It became
emotional for all of us. A brilliant wine moment. 94
…and the best wine tasted from my vintage
1979 Lanson Brut
Magnum Deg 2013. Lemon yellow.
Apples, brioche, minerals, detailed, some nuts, smoky notes, intense nose. Fresh
acidity, elegant mousse, apples, nuts, fruity, minerals, smoky notes, quite
detailed, some spices, long. 95
