98 Rousseau Chambertin

1998 Armand Rousseau Chambertin:
Pale ruby with garnet rim. Still youthful nose, strawberries, basil, leaf notes, some flowers, touch of vanilla, refined, easy, yet intense feel. Slightly spicy. Fresh and elegant acidity, ripe tannins, gorgeous balance and layered, feels like perfection, exceptional length. 97-98

90 Dalla Valle

1990 Dalla Valle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon:
Ruby red, thin garnet rim. Gorgeous nose of some spicy, almost heavy dark berries and cassis. Complex and layered with a touch of coffee shop and fine leather. Fresh acidity, a bit sweeter than I remember, tannins ripe and elegant and long finish. 93

2004 Vietti Barolo Rocche:

2004 Vietti Barolo Rocche:
Bright ruby, roses and tar, intense fruit, some cherries and starting leather hiding behind. Very complex and feels full for Barolo. High acidity and high of ripe tannins. Didn't need too much air to feel open, but young. Long. 91+

1998 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva:

1998 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva:
Bright ruby. Gorgeous nose, more open than the last bottle two years back or so. Pure cherries, some leather, redcurrants, light whiff of tobacco. Fresh and towards high acidity, ripe tannins, some oak feel, balanced and very long. Goes on and on. 96

1907 D'Oliveiras Moscatel

1907 D'Oliveiras Moscatel:
Deep amber. Again grapey and a whiff of citrus over sultanas and apricots. Fresh acidity, livelier than the 1875, and a bit leaner. Playfull and long. 94

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel:

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel:
Deep amber. Heavy nose of sultanas, some sweet lillies, apricots and pineapples. Fresh acidity and lively for Moscatel, less oppulent on the palate, long and rich. 91

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho:

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho:
Amber with yellow rim. I've had this a few times, always a favorite with its straight ahead and open nose, marzipan, citrus, nuts and sweet dried apricots. Fresh and lively acidity, great balance, fresh and lively, complex and layered, very long finish. 95

07 Cantelys

2007 Château Cantelys:
Dark ruby. When opened, raw, brutal and in teenage wrath. Ungainly and difficult to enjoy. The next day, it settled down, just a bit of the vintage herbs, cool feel overshadowing the minerals, slightly unripe blackcurrant's. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit hollow mid palate, good length. 86

07 Ramonet Chassagne Boudriotte

2007 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte:
Towards lemon yellow. Increasingly rich nose, lemons, apples, some barrel notes and creamy feel. Fresh acidity but lacks the freshness of the vintage, feels on the heavy side and a bit laid back all the way. Good length. 87

Five wines from Zind-Humbrecht

Zind-Humbrecht was created in 1959 by the union of the properties of Emile Zind and Zénon Humbrecht. Earlier the family estates had produced wines under each family name. The Humbrecht family has long traditions as winemakers, starting in 1620. They started to bottle themselves in 1947 and have only made wines with their own grapes since.

2010 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Gueberschwihr:
Pale lemon yellow. Rich and rather heavy nose of apples and ripe lemons. Fresh acidity, nicely balanced, fresh and long. 87

2010 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Windsbuhl:
Pale lemon yellow. Again rich nose, but feels lighter than the Gueberscwihr, more nuanced and layered. Fresh acidity, lively even, elegant, balanced, floral notes, apples and lemons. Long. 92

2010 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain:
Pale lemon yellow. Intense, rich, fruity, flowers and mineraly nose. Fresh enough but lacks a bit of that liveliness of the Windsbuhl. Very rich, so it feels more subdued, and therefore a bit more boring. Long. 90

2010 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Vielles Vignes Vendange Tardive:
Pale lemon yellow. Plums and apples on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, very elegant Pinot Gris, fine balance and length. The sweetness feels to be more from the fruit than residual sugar, very well integrated. 91

1999 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive:
Pale golden. Floral, plums and apples. Nuts and some wax behind. Fresh acidity, elegant and balanced, but could be a bit longer. 89

5x Rieslings from Josmeyer

2010 Josmeyer Le Kotabe Riesling:
BU9746501 (209,90) Pale lemon yellow. Light minerals and lime-soaked apples. Fresh, lively and playfull acidity, great balance, elegant, nuanced and long. 89

2008 Josmeyer Le Kotabe Riesling:
BU5976601 (197,90) Pale lemon yellow. Lillies of the valley, minerals, slightly richer and fuller than the 2010. Elegant, balanced, fresh acidity, long and refreshing finish. 88

2008 Josmeyer Riesling Les Pierrets:
BU5976701 (255,90) Pale lemon yellow. Lemon and ripe yellow apples on the nose. Elegant acidity, maybe a bit hollow mid-palate that pulls it down a bit, fresh finish. 87

2008 Josmeyer Riesling Grand Cru Hengst:
BU5976401 (349,90) Pale lemon yellow. Lime, lemon, orange blossoms and apples. Fruit and flower driven, very elegant nose. Fresh acidity, intense, mouthwatering and lovely balance. Long. 92

2000 Josmeyer Riesling Grand Cru Hengst:
(Spesialimport) Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lemons and yellow plums. Feels a bit closed. Young, just showing some development. Fresh acidity, good length. I didn't get the time for it to open fully. 91 for now.

30 years of Coulée de Serrant

La Coulée de Serrant was planted with vines by Cistercian monks as early as 1130 and has had 881 (soon 882) consecutive grape harvests. It's a single AOC of just 7 hectares. Biodynamic guru Nicolas Joly is at the helm here. I've been a bit sceptical, especially after the monstrous 06 and 05's, (and oxidized!) but todays tasting of 08 and 09 makes me feel they might be back on track. Todays speach on how a cow see right through you and that snowflakes are individual may seem a bit far off topic.

On the other hand, when he talks about that a little of this, or a little of that may, or may not be harmfull in or on the soil. When he then says that a leech was nothing but a tiny seed a few months back, it's all easier to see how only a tiny piece of something, can have a good or a bad effect. Obvious really, even if it sometimes feels like a gospel choir should be on stage with him. Below are the two latest vintages, and some older ones tasted back in 2010 further below.

2009 Coulée de Serrant:
Pale lemon yellow. Nutty, creamy nose, sweet lilies, marzipan, bananas and a touch of VA. Rich palate, medium acidity, balanced, didn't get a look at the alcohol level, but this felt less alcoholic than the 05. Good length. 90

2008 Coulée de Serrant:
BU5249401 (498,-) Pale lemon yellow. Feels like there is some botrytis, creamy and some vanilla. More subdued marzipan. Rich palate, fresh acidity, lively and elegant, again, feels like a change of style. Long. 91

Straws want to reach high into the sky, they are tied with the sky according to Mr.Joly

2006 Coulée de Serrant:
Golden. Massive nose of oxidation, alcohol and bananas. Lazy acidity overshadowed by alcohol and huge body, again unfresh and massive. At least ten bottles have behaved like this, from different cases, so I don't think it's bottle failure.... 75

2005 Coulée de Serrant;
Pale golden, almonds, tulips, floral, honney, orange blossoms, nuts, marsipan, intens and beautifull. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, almost velvety, so balanced, even with the quite high alcohol of 15%, one barely notice it way back in the finish. I have probably tried two dozen bottles of this, and this one is so different from the others, all of them oxidized in one way or the other, this one is just elegant, smooth and joyfull, with very different aromas. Bananas, melons, honney, pear, if this is how it should be, what a cool wine, but this bottle is, as stated above, nothing like the others. Very long finish. Lacks the minerality I associate with this wine though. 92 (On this one great bottle, the rest are low 80's....)


2002 Coulée de Serrant;
Dark lemon, high fill, no sign of sepage, but soaked cork. Intence minerality, some apples and yellow plums, petroleum, dust, cellar and fresh mushrooms. Medium body, fresh in a weird way, lots of acidity, lots of intencity, some oxidized notes, long aftertaste, different but good, needs decanting. Can be left in the bottle for weeks without much happening. 86

Not as oxidized as 05 and 06, but still, much of the same. Major difference is actually less alcohol, and that always helps.

1996 Coulée de Serrant;
Dark golden, soaked cork. Again this almost insane minerality, pear, stone, leaves, schistes, some mushrooms, actually more youthfull than the 02!. Medium body, extreme intencity, massive and fresh acidity, yellow plums, apples and pears, acidity never gives in, very long finish, but still a bit oxidized........88

So, how much older do we have to go, to get rid of the oxidation.........

1994 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, cork only half soaked, this one leaps out of the glass, again this massive minerality, honey and melon, grapefruit, flint and schistes, unripe pear and is it botrytis back there? It almost has this Sauternes tropical fruit over this increadible massive minerality, it want's to love you and kill you at the same time, dry and crisp finish, still some oxidation. 92

I like them better and better, mostly because the oxidation and alcohol level both seems to drop with age......

1991 Coulée de Serrant;
Paler than the 94, still golden, again soaked cork, but it's a older bottle. Not as intence as the 94, otherwise more or less exactly the same, more gentle, shorter and easier, more forgiving, but still a bit oxidized, and as a lighter one, it shows better. 87

1990 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, explosive minerality again, honey melon, fresh pears, honey and nuts, even when decanted for two days, nothing much happens in any direction, but the acidity is lazy, a bit lean body and all the honey don't mach, like the oposite of a fat girl with a bit too small top. And still oxidized.........84

So, trying wines from 16 years from oldest to youngest, all sharing a very similar style, except the lowering of alcohol, and to some exctent, oxidation, but it is still very much a part of the style.

1989 Coulée de Serrant;
Lemon yellow, more mature smelling, dust, leaf, minerals, quite less oxidation than the 90, flint, plaster and lemon, a bit steely and lean, not that long and an acidic finish. 83

1984 Coulée de Serrant;
Golden, a bit closed, some minerals, apples, pears, much fresher than the 89 and 90, massive nuts, probably how a squirrel feels when it has the cheeks filled with hazelnuts, lean, acidic, a bit short finish. Still some oxidation, great balance, but a bit short. Nothing happened during 24 hours open, in the bottle. 86

Seems to get fresher again after two a bit dissapointing bottles of 90 and 89.

1980 Coulée de Serrant;
Deep straw yellow! First light colour, and that at almost 30 years of age! Some smoked meaty notes, flint, hints of melon, more citrus, then oysters. This is really different. Even more, almost massive citrus with more air, fresh and lively minerality, very elegant and great balance, leaner than all the others, and so much fresher and more youthfull, actually has the fat girls 14,5 alcohol, but this one knows how to dress, and looks smart. Very long finish. 90

So. This last one, doesn't have any oxidation at all. Is this more of the style that made Coulee de Serrant world famous? It was an impressive old bottle from a lesser vintage. I preffer this style. Has the style gone more back to its roots? I don't know, I didn't taste them young, but from those two young vintages (and bottles) today, I keep my fingers crossed.

Peter Jakob Kühn

Tasting through a flight of Rieslings from Peter Jakob Kühn today from Rheingau. New from this post will be a order number (Vinmonopolet, where available), and the price in Norwegian kroner (where available).

2010 Peter Jakob Kühn Hallgarten Händelberg Riesling Trocken:
BU9740101 (209,-) Pale lemon yellow. Light nose of almonds, apples and some citrus. Lovely acidity, rounded and fine balance. Fresh feel to it and elegant. Good length. 87

2010 Peter Jakob Kühn Mittelheim St Nikolaus Riesling Trocken:
BU9740201 (289,-) Pale lemon yellow. Ripe nose, yellow plums and apples. Fresh acidity, lively, more energetic than Händelberg in a way, elegant finish of apples and lemons. 89

2010 Peter Jakob Kühn Oestrich Doosberg Riesling Trocken:
BU9740301 (299,-) Pale lemon yellow. Very elegant and subdued nose. Apples, lime and some minerals. Fresh acidity, lively and playful. Gives more on the palate than on the nose. Long. 89

2009 Peter Jakob Kühn Riesling Amphore:
Straw yellow. If you take a terracotta flower pot, and if you change it into a bigger one for your plants, the smell in the old pot, a bit of moist dirt and wet terracotta, thats exactly how this wine smells. Rich and fullbodied, medium acidity, flavours have very little to do with any normal conception of Riesling that I know of. 86

2008 Peter Jakob Kühn Oestrich Lenchen Riesling Beerenauslese;
BU5163802 (577,-) (Demi) Pale golden, apricots, apples, pure nose, oranges. Refreshing and playful acidity, stunning balance, a bit tender first, then explodes on the palate. Lively and very long indeed. 94

05 Daniel Rion NSG

2005 Daniel Rion Nuits-St-Georges Vielles Vignes:
Bright ruby. If yoy can think of a mix of strawberries and blackberries, that's how this smells now. There is a slight whiff of vanilla as well, but on release, for me at least, this was like sucking on oak. I'm a bit amazed actually, of how well the oak has integrated. Just a whiff of floral notes if you look carefully. Fresh acidity, tannins ripe, elegant body and fruit, not too intense first, more intensity in the aftertaste, long and dark for pinot. Anyway, lovely. 90

2001 Yquem

2001 Château d'Yquem:
Just a few weeks ago I stated it was almost embarrassing to post another note on this perfect wine, and yet, I've allready been lucky enough to have it again. (Demi) Pale golden, pure, rich, intense, apricots, pineapples, vanilla, beyond refined, layered and complex. Balanced beyond words, fresh acidity neatly packed in silk, playful and refined, gorgeous as always, perfection. And yet again, hardly any evolution at elleven years. Enormous length. 100

1982 Suduiraut

1982 Château Suduiraut:
(Demi, recorked in 2006) Towards amber golden, rich, nutty, botrytis, raisins and dried apricots. Fresh acidity, lovely fruit, and one of the fruitier bottles of several I've tasted, without (luckily) the burnt sugar note some have. Fine and elegant, lovely balance and refreshing with that fruit. Long finish. 93

82 Borgogno Barolo Riserva

1982 Borgogno Barolo Riserva:
Ruby with brick rim. Cooked and boiled fruit, dry and gone. Directly from producer.

1983 Trotanoy

1983 Château Trotanoy:
In the neck fill. Soaked cork. Ruby with brick rim, rich tobacco, plums, almost cedary, flirting, and after some great Burgundies, flirting like few. Complex and layered, cigars, perfumed, hyacinths, violets hardwood and anise. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, biting texture, a bit lean mid-palate first but got richer with air, fuller, after 45 minutes a perfect palate. Balanced, elegant, even if not rich, surprisingly powerfull. Fantastic length. 96

2009 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin

2009 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin Grand Cru:
Pale ruby. Fine and pure nose, strawberries, spices, fruity and ripe. Less flamboyant than some 09's. Some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely balance, refreshing. Long and very elegant finish. Lovely. 92

1985 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny

1985 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru:
Fill 25 millimterers below cork. Pale garnet, brick rim. Earth, leaf, whiff of floral notes, almost oxidated, but verging on being to fresh for that. Darjeeling. Fresh acidity, tannins gone. On the palate it's like a shell of rich and oppulent fruit, that is now gone. Like an old aristocrat that really isn't as young and good looking as she hopes to be, trying to keep up the appearance. 86

From other notes found on this wine, it's rather too old now, more than this being a particularly bad bottle.

06 Roumier CM les Cras

2006 Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras:
Pale ruby, just a bit edgy nose the first twenty or so minutes. Slightly floral and pure strawberries, very finetuned. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, the somewhat edgy first impression dissapears and the wine, gets really elegant, if always on the slightly narrow side. Exceptional length. 94

2007 Leflaive PM Clavoillon

Visiting the Baron of Brøttum

2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon:
Pale lemon yellow, lime, "Røros-butter", fine minerals, touch of grapefruit and some floral notes with more air. Fresh acidity, focused and narrow minerality, tight, needed time to open. Fine and nuanced, long, elegant lemon mineraly finish. 93

1988 Château Latour a Pomerol

1988 Château Latour a Pomerol:
In the neck fill. Deep ruby, brick rim. Refined nose of fine floral notes and elegant fruit. Exotic spises, feels rich yet subdued. Maturing nicely. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body and a bit greenn and unripe mid- palate, more chocolate and blueberries in the long finish. Started out a bit rough on the texture, but that settled down nicely after about fifteen minutes of air. Long. 91

86 Potensac

1986 Château Potensac:
In the neck fill. Deep ruby, brick rim. Prunes, figs and anise. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, getting more mellow. Intense if not too complex. Surprisingly fresh, a bit rough around the edges if you're picky, good length. From my fathers cellar. 88

05 Roccolo Grassi Recioto

2005 Roccolo Grassi Recioto de Valpolicella:
Deep ruby, rich nose. A bit alcoholic over sweet cherries, blueberries and dark chocolate. Fresh acidity, rich palate, mouthwatering, almost sweet and sour, alcohol more integrated on the palate. Long if a bit lean finish. Excellent match with Papillon black label. 88

76 Filhot

1976 Château Filhot:
Deep golden, amber hue. Nuts, caramel, floral and sweet vanilla. Slightly oxidized. Fresh acidity, lively, but shorter and not as fresh as a bottle last week. Leanish and good length. 83

04 Suduiraut

2004 Château Suduiraut:
Golden. The pure nose of the vintage, very fresh and fruitdriven. Apricots, vanilla and pineapple. Fresh acidity, lively, elegant, balanced, not too intense or rich. 04 is not for the cellar, should be enjoyed over the next five years or so. Long. 91

98 Château Olivier

1998 Château Olivier:
Château Olivier is an estate that really has sharpened up in the last five to ten years. The wines have become better and better after new leadership, and for me, especially from 07. The whites today are some of the finest for the price in Pessac, and the reds are following behind. Even if I have a soft spot for the red Pessac's of 98, I didn't expect much on this one. Deep ruby, intense nose of cassis, minerals, leather and tobacco. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and fruity, getting mature, some figs in the aftertaste. Quite robust feel to it. Real Bordeaux. Long. 91

2010 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères:

2010 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères:
Pale lemon yellow. A bit lean nose of lime, apples and fine minerals. Fresh acidity, again narrow on the palate, even after a few hours of air. Flavours seems open, lime and mineraly finish, good length, just a whiff of popcorn in the finish. 91

08 Ch de Puligny-Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet

2008 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet:
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, butter, subdued minerals and citrus. Almost orange blossoms behind. Fresh acidity, lively, very elegant, long finish. 93

08 Ch de Puligny-Montrachet Meursault Poruzots

2008 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots:
Pale lemon yellow, minerals, apples and lemons. Narrower and more focused than the Perrieres, but lacks the complexity. Fresh acidity, elegant, balanced, and long. 89

2006 Cappellano Pie Rupestris

2006 Cappellano Barolo Pie Rupestris-Nebioli Otin Fiorin:
Pale ruby, brick rim. Tar, roses, licorice, stunning nose. Fresh acidity, high even and high of ripe tannins. Pure and elegant for Barolo, has a classic feel to it. 92

07 Fonterenza Brunello

2007 Fonterenza Brunello di Montalcino:
Ruby, vanilla, strawberries, cherries and chocolate. Fresh and high acidity. Hogh of ripe tannins. Vanilla and forest berry finish, long. 90

08 Long-Depaquit Moutonne

2008 Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne:
Pale lemon yellow. Apples and minerals on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, elegant, citrus apply finish. Long and lovely balace. Has a Côte de Beaune feel to it.... 91

2000 Jacquesson Avize

2000 Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru:
Towards lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Apples, minerals, oysters, almost seafront. Fresh acidity, lively mousse, ripe lemons. Lovely balance and very long finish. 92

2002 Pesquera Reserva Millenium

2002 Pesquera Reserva Millenium:
Ruby with garnet rim. Vanilla, tobacco, floral and violets. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, quite a mouthfull, long finish. 89

2009 Leflaive & Associés Charmes Chambertin

2009 Leflaive & Associés Charmes Chambertin:
Ruby, rich warm fruit, plums and dark berries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins and palate feels fresher than nose. Cherries and white chocolate. Seems to lack a bit of harmony. Long finish. 90

08 Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny

2008 Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny:
Ruby, closed, needs time to show. Pure strawberries with a dash of vanilla. Fresh, lively palate, elegant, refined (with enough air), mineraly, pure finish, very long. 92+

07 Dennis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs

2007 Dennis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs Vielles Vignes:
Ruby, mature plums, figs, feels mature for its age. Fresh acidity, elegant palate, lovely ripe tannins, good length. 89

09 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin

2009 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin:
Deep ruby, vanilla and red berries, stone from stone fruits. Deep and intense for Gevrey. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely balance, long and refreshing finish. 91

08 Soalheiro Reserva

2008 Quinta da Soalheiro, Soalheiro Alvarinho Reserva:
Just 1500 bottles produced. From the producers web-site: "Vineyard: the grapes are organically produced and harvest by hand from the old vines at Quinta de Soalheiro.
The microclimate that influences the production of Alvarinho grapes is very particular. Melgaço region, the northern point of Portugal, is protected by a range of mountains that create the perfect conditions of rainfall, temperature and number of hours of sunshine needed to the better ripeness of the Alvarinho grapes. The brand name – Soalheiro - arises from the excellent sun exposure of the vineyards bearing the same name - a sunny place.
2008 harvest is characterized by a slow maturation process with low temperatures during the months of August and September. The harvest occurred in the third week of September.
Wine: the grapes are harvested manually in boxes of small capacity and carried to the cellar in a short space of time. After the pressing and the before fermentation with controlled temperature, the must was decanted during 48 hours. The fermentation and aging take place in French oak (new and used), and remained in “batonnage” with fine lees until the end of August 2009." I've never tasted it before, but a fellow wine collector wanted my views on it. Pale golden, nose of tender white fish grilled with lemons, olive oil and butter. Minerals, all very subdued and refined. Like sitting on a (good) Mediterranean seafront restaurant. Fresh acidity, lovely balance, elegant and quite mouthwatering. Almost Chablis like, without the steelyness, oysters and lemon finish. Long. 91+

03 von Kesselstatt WS Auslese

2003 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese:
Golden, over-ripe apples and soap on the nose. Lazy, almost flat acidity, boring and short. 75

04 JJ Christoffel Erben ÜW Eiswein

2004 Joh.Jos.Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Eiswein:
Pale golden. Not quite as rich as some bottles, this one more apples, minerals, apricots and feels very fresh and youthful. Touch of honey. Fresh and lively acidity, mouthwatering, stunning balance, long and elegant. Very fresh finish. 94

83 Talbot

1983 Château Talbot:
Fill just a few millimeters below the perfect cork. Ruby, brick rim. Licorice, hung meat, leather, cassis, fruit is slightly in a ball still. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body. Lovely balance, mouthwatering, refreshing and very long. In my fathers cellar since release more or less. 93

79 Pichon Baron

1979 Château Pichon Longueville Baron:
Bought in Newcastle, probably in 1985, at Victoria Wine for £ 7,29, and stored in my fathers cellar since. Low neck fill, perfect cork. Ruby with brick rim. Figs, prunes, minerals, leather, anise, mature nose. Gentleman's wardrobe. Fresh acidity, tannins ripe and not fully gone. Elegant texture, Christmas spices, getting fuller (but never rich) with air. Cinamon, long finish. 92-93

03 Karthäusehof Auslese Nr.18

2003 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese Nr.18:
Pale golden, apricot compot, fresh vanilla or is it coconut? Lazy acidity, but sifficient, a bit-onedimensional and short. 79

76 Filhot

1976 Château Filhot:
Amber gold. Dried apricots, sultanas, beeswax and rose hips. Fresh acidity, fairly lean body, elegant but probably not to everyones palate. Gaining somewhat with air, getting drier. Fine length. 88

98 Meyney

1998 Château Meyney:
Ruby with garnet rim. Cassis, fine leather, some vanilla and anise. Starting prunes, getting fuller with air. Fresh acidity, tannins ripe and just starting to melt. One of my best bottles of many, this one, my last of a very popular house wine. Long. 89

04 La Tour de By

2004 Château La Tour de By:
Ruby, garnet rim. Minty cassis and some herbs. Leaner and greener than 01. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit hollow mid palate and a bit rustic. Good length. 83

01 La Tour de By

2001 Château La Tour de By:
Ruby, garnet rim. Slightly sweet and pruny nose, mature and towards seductive. Licorice and some vanilla. Fresh acidity and ripe tannins. A bit edgy texture in the classic finish and a classic Bordeaux. Long if somewhat lean finish. 86+

2010 W. Fevre Petit Chablis

2010 William Fevre Petit Chablis:
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, some lime and cool minerality. Fresh acidity, fruity, balanced, easy and refreshing. OK length. 83

07 Schloss Johannisberg Grünlack

2007 Schloss Johannisberg Grünlack Riesling Spätlese:
Pale golden. Subtle nose of green apples, some vague floral notes, apricots and jasmin. Orange blossoms. Fresh acidity and near perfect balance. Young, and seems more closed than before, with hardly any development so far. Wait for five or more years. 91

01 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguishe

2001 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguishe:
Lemon yellow, minerals, some butter, apples and vanilla. Floral high notes. Fresh acidity that carries the flavours into quite a long length. Balanced, complex and still needs time. 93

98 Pedesclaux

1998 Château Pedesclaux:
Ruby, some herbs, slightly edgy, cassis and plum-juice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, young and juggling between fruit and herbs. Needs another five years to settle. 85

1952 Beychevelle

1952 Château Beychevelle:
Deep ruby, thin garnet rim! Lots of sediments. Layered and complex nose, floral, cedar and cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe and superbly elegant tannins. A bit lean body and therefore not a style for everyone, but just adorable in my world. Very long finish. 92

1959 Croizet-Bages

1959 Château Croizet-Bages:
Dark ruby, thin brick rim. Leather, barely figs, smells of warm storage. But, I'm actually surprised that it's and fig note in this one at all. Even young wines dry out quickly from this undistinct producer.

79 Mouton Rothschild

1979 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Ruby, brick rim. Bell peppers, herbs, tobacco, coffee and a bit heavy nose. Medium acidity, mature tannins, almost gone, leaner body and fruit than nose. Dark chocolate bitterness in the finish, wood polish. Only tasted this once before, and that felt fresher and more together. 87

83 Pichon Baron

1983 Château Pichon Longueville Baron:
Ruby, brick rim. Blackcurrant's, cedar, sweet anise and some violets. Camphor and tobacco. Lovely nose. Fresh acidity, almost tight, stone fruits, ripe tannins, and long. This was served blimd and I was more in Margaux somewhere than Pauillac. 90

1957 Cos d'Estournel

1957 Château Cos d'Estournel:
Cloudy and pure vinegar

90 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Varoilles

1990 Domaine des Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Varoilles:
Ruby, brick rim. Earthy, some red berries behind. Licorice touch. Fresh acidity, dry tannins, dry leafy feel, stone from plums. Short and edgy finish. 85

96 Guillon Gevrey-Chambertin

1996 Jean-Michel Guillon Gevrey-Chambertin Vielles Vignes:
Ruby, brick rim and sediments. Mature nose, slightly metallic, prunes and raisins. Fresh acidity, starting to dry palate, lean and a bit edgy. 82

2001 Yquem

2001 Château d'Yquem:
Here we go again. I've tasted this one so many times it's getting embarrassing, and every single time, I'm blown away. Golden, so pure it's impossible to describe it fully. Comes, gives, comes and gives again. Waves of flavours. Fresh and lively acidity, subdued, stunning, gorgeous. Perfection before, perfection again. 100

01 Suduiraut

2001 Château Suduiraut:
Golden. Fresh nose, pure of apricots and pineapples, lively, nuanced, very young and fresh still. Fresh acidity, balanced almost beyond words, seductive and magnificent, pure joy, and a treat. Stunning! Very long. 97

01 Rieussec

2001 Château Rieussec:
Rich nose, apricots, vanilla, feels tight, that ball again. Still typically Rieussec rich and flamboyant. Fresher acidity than most Rieussec's, lots of fruit, and to be a real pain in the arse, for my palate, the acidity could still be fresher. But for once, the Rieussec bottle was finished. Long. 94

01 La Tour Blanche

2001 Château La Tour Blanche:
(Served blind) Golden, apricots, rasp- and strawberries on the nose. Vanilla, botrytis, rich yet tenderish feel, very elegant. Refreshing, pure and long. 95 (I guessed Lafaurie-Peyraguey or La Tour Blanche 01)

1989 Montrose

1989 Château Montrose:
Deep ruby. Feels more evolved with some figs and stone-fruits next to that ball of a 90 Montrose. But way more layered and nuanced. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively feel to the palate, red berries and younger feel with some air, flirting, seductive and very elegant. The finest leather available. Superb, and exceptional length. 97

1990 Montrose

1990 Château Montrose:
Deep ruby. Deep nose, minty, concentrated, massive, everything is packed in there, in glossy paper, but very hard to decipher. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, intense structure, still superb balance, mouthwatering, rich, like a ball, rolling over the palate, this bottle could be longer, and lacked even the faintest hint of any brett. Perfect bottles like this one should lie for another ten-to twenty years for assessment. 95

08 Duplessis Chablis Les Clos

2008 Duplessis Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos:
Straw yellow, narrow and almost steely on day one, never decanted but had half the bottle first, and half rested in the fridge for about 20 hours. Day two saw almost transparent floral notes, seaside minerality, oysters and some very ripe and sweet lemons. Fresh acidity, and the towards steely minerality has lingered on the palate, refreshing, creamy aftertaste, long. 92

89 Mouton Rothschild

1989 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Ruby, intense nose of cedar, Hermes sadle, cassis and fine tobacco. Floral and Mouton's fine exotic spices, some herbs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely texture, refined and elegant. Seductive and very long finish. Probably my finest bottle of 89 Mouton. Lovely. 96

90 Mouton Rothschild

1990 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Ruby. Starts out a bit herbal, later classic bell peppers, licorice, blackcurrant's leaf and some exotic spices. Easygoing Mouton, lovely texture, feels a bit rich, but subdued by the herbs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good length. But I have had more complete bottles. 91

89 Pichon Lalande

1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande:
Ruby. Stunning nose, leather, cassis, perfumed, elegant and still quite rich. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely texture. Fresh feel to it, mouthwatering, very long. 94

90 Pichon Lalande

1990 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande;
Ruby. Burnt feel, almost rubbery, like after a dragrace. Seems to have some sort of a bottle/storage failure. Palate somewhat fresher than nose. I've had better bottles.

89 Pichon Baron

1989 Château Pichon Longueville Baron:
Towards deep ruby. Rich nose, coffee, heavy and ripe feel. A bit (for a wine of this stature) one-dimensional. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, lacks a bit of freshness, very rounded, but more elegant palate and fruit, than nose. Long. 91+

90 Pichon Baron

1990 Château Pichon Longueville Baron:
Ruby, tobacco, prunes, cassis, leather and mint. Layered and seductive. Quite intense, feels robust. Fresh acidity, almost lively, elegant but slightly hollow mid-palate. Long. 93

86 Lafite Rothschild

1986 Château Lafite Rothschild:
Bottom neck fill. Ruby, tight nose, cassis, leather, very nuanced, layered and seductive. Transparent yet full somehow. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly grippy in the most elegant way ever. Violets, perfumed and exceptional length. More closed even so than other bottles. 99

85 Lafite Rothschild

1985 Château Lafite Rothschild:
Bottom neck fill. Ruby. Just a touch of bell peppers, licorice, cassis and maybe some floral notes. Very elegant nose. More and more seductive with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some herbs, cool and stunning. Long length. 95

86 Ch. Margaux

1986 Château Margaux:
Fill only 5 mm below cork! Deep ruby. Elegance, intense, yet tiptoing like a ballet dancer. Violets, cassis, superbly nuanced, seductive. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, has everything. Nothing jumps out. Velvet texture, one of my finest bottles of this wine in this vintage. Needs time, even if some bottles are starting to open up. 97

85 Ch. Margaux

1985 Château Margaux:
Ruby, garnet rim. After tasting many of these last year, and some together with Mr.Pontallier, this was clearly not an optimal bottle. Lacks the nuances and elegance of the vintage, seems to have been stored to warm, coffee and caramel.

82 La Lagune

1982 Château La Lagune:
(Served blind). Ruby, brick rim. Minerals, cassis, leather and prunes. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins. Nice fruit and body but a bit short. 87

85 Pichon Comtesse

1985 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande:
Bottom neck fill, ruby, garnet rim. Blackcurrant's leaf, bell peppers, barnyard touch, anise. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner style, elegant if somewhat edgy. Fresher with air. 90

86 Pichon Comtesse

1986 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande:
Bottom neck fill. Ruby, garnet rim, tight and more closed than several bottles lately. Cassis, bell peppers, licorice. Towards high acidity, high level of ripe tannins, intense, young and rough. This bottle would have needed another fifteen years. 92

09 Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne Rouge

2009 Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne Rouge;
Pale ruby. Quite elegant and refined nose of strawberries, touch of leather and delicate anise. Fresh acidity, slightly edgy texture, tannins ripe, a bit lean, but fresh, good length. 86

02 von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberg Eiswein

2002 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Eiswein:
Golden with amber hue. Rich, exotic and quite mature nose, raisins, intense, in a ball, hard to describe. Fresh acidity, lively and playfull. Fairly full bodied mid palate, more elegant towards the aftertaste where the acidity comes back and turns everything into a magnificent combination. Very long finish. 95

85 Cos

1985 Château Cos d'Estournel;
Neck fill. Garnet, garnet rim. Cassis, bell peppers, leather and prunes. Frersh and cool feel to it, some might say lean. Easygoing texture, medium acidity, ripe and soft tannins, elegant and long. 90

86 Cos d'Estournel

1986 Château Cos d'Estournel:
Neck fill. Ruby, garnet rim, tender nose, well, maybe not tender, but sudued and discreet, especially considering newer vintages of Cos. Opens up, getting richer, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, needed air to open, gives a punch, has everything but could have been longer. Would have been nice to let a bottle sit for longer in the glass. A fine Cos. 93+