Visiting Vega-Sicilia

Visiting Vega-Sicilia is not for everyone. It's like a fortress. Some say that it is even more difficult to get a visit at Vega-Sicilia than DRC. But with an invitation, everything went smoothly. It was perfect, and it has been a dream for years, ever since that bottle of 1962 Vega-Sicilia Unico that was totally mind-blowing. I was warmly welcomed by the Export Manager with the magnificent name of Puri, short for Purificacion Mancebo.

It was interesting to hear that the vineyard of Vega-Sicilia is some of the coolest in the area, and that they are some of the latest to pick the grapes. I have always wondered why, when Vega-Sicilia is the only truly legendary estate in Spain, and one of the most legendary in the world, why haven't the upstart tried to make something remotely similar? When other estates of Ribera del Duero are huge, alcoholic, over-oaked and over-extracted, lacking anything remotely similar to the complexity, layers, subtlety and sheer elegance of Vega-Sicilia. It's like trying to create a new Cameron Diaz, and to do that, you start out with Sylvester Stallone.

The altitude of the vineyards are high, 700 metres above the sea, and even in June when I visited, the wind was still cool. Vinification is going back to the more old school as so many do now in Bordeaux as well, out with stainless steel, and fermentation in huge old oak vats. Vertical presses are back, it seems they have pressed the grapes more gently the whole time anyway, invention is not always for the better.

I tasted some Oremus wines as well, but I will only write about the wines from Spain.

2006 Pintia, Toro;

Almost opaque, very deep colour. Some spices, pine trees, pine nuts, dark berries, black- and blueberries, some leather and licquorice. Nice balance, good acidity, tannins like falling snow, slightly rustic feel to it, still elegant, strange combination that works very well, slightly hollow mid way and a long length. 88

2005 Alion, Ribera del Duero;

Deep ruby, pure fruit, some spices and licquorice, red berries, blueberries, complex and young. Silky tannins, fresh acidity and superb finesse, very elegant and balanced, medium body and fruit intensity, good length. 88

2004 Vega-Sicilia Valbuena;

Deep ruby, ruby rim. More closed, needs more time to open, some licquorice, blueberries, cherries, blackcurrant's, vanilla, very complex. Fresh and lively, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, perfect balance, very long finish. 91

1999 Vega-Sicilia Unico;

Ruby with ruby rim, chocolate, some coffee, licquorice, cherries and blackcurrant's, leather and vanilla, enormous complexity, cedar touch, intense and beautiful. Fantastic balance and elegant acidity with ripe tannins, needs years and years in the cellar or a really thorough decanting, long finish. 95

By the way, Puri could tell me that the 62 Unico is also the favorite of the owner of Vega-Sicilia, Pablo Alvarez.

I always look forward for my next bottle of Unico.