1992 Domaine de Chevalier blanc

1992 Domaine de Chevalier blanc;
Straw yellow, citrus, some minerals, oysters, lemon, and toasty oak, even caramelized butter. Fairly high acidity but doesn't feel that way at first, lemony, slightly grassy and minerals on the palate, elegant body, even if it lacks a little something. In the cross road between a lean Meursault and a maturing Chablis. I would be far off Bordeaux on this one blind. It's way finer than it's rumours state, yes it's a bit lean, maybe even skinny, but what is here is quite fine, quite balanced, and quite long. 89

1963 Domaine de Chevalier blanc

1963 Domaine de Chevalier blanc;
Mid shoulder fill. Golden colour, with greenish hue, minerals, something petroleum-like, faint hint of apricots. Quite high acidity, not that much fruit left on the palate, but some lime cling on to minerals for their bare life, quite lemony finish. Lean.83

1962 Vietti Barolo

1962 Vietti Barolo;
Fill in the lower neck, cork pretty good. Bright pale garnet with orange hue. Some mushrooms, tar and roses, more heavy of licorice and rose hips. Quite high acidity, with an almost shy attack before rushing in like a basketball team hoping to score, and then falls back off, like the waves on the beach. Tannins stil there, lots of them, but they are more like spectators to the theme, just in the back, like a barrier, to keep the players on the field. A more gentle style of Barolo than many, not too intense, but lasting on the palate, a somewhat figgy, licorice, sweet tobacco aftertaste. More refreshing with air, has a nerve in it. 90

By the way, even on this 1962, the alcohol level is stated, at 14%, not that one notice.....

05 Wegeler Bernkasteler Doctor BA

2005 Wegeler, Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Beerenauslese;
Golden, apricots, pineapples, botrytis, heavier feel underneath. High and lively acidity, mouthwatering, balanced, lovey and fresh, long. I wish I had more. 93

06 Schloss Lieser LNH BA

2006 Schloss Lieser, Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Beerenauslese;
Golden, botrytis, intense yet subtle, pineapples, layered and nuanced. Astonishing acidity, superb balance, playful as few, not too complex for a BA, but superb texture, very mouthwatering, long. 94

1988 Poggio Antico Brunello

1988 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino;
Ruby with garnet rim. Warm and dusty nose, sharp cassis, metallic nose, drying, tired.

1976 Rüdesheimer Roseneck Auslese

1976 Dr.Heinrich Nägler, Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese;
Golden, orange tints, apricots, raisins, lime, fresh oranges and Acacia honey. Lovely acidity, beautiful balance, a bit short. 89

Madeira of the week 5: 1903 D'Oliveiras Boal

1903 D'Oliveiras Boal;
Deep amber, red tints, golden rim. Intense and complex nose, nothing jumps out as Paul Pontallier says, magnificent and layered nose. Fresh and high acidity, playful, very lively fruit, superb texture, somewhat leaner than the 1908 Boal, but maybe a touch more refined. Very nuanced and long. 95

About Boal in Alex Lidell's book, Madeira: Boal, a relatively uncommon variety, grows at fairly low altitudes (100-300 metres) on the south of the island, and at present the best seems to come from Campanario and Calheta. It is a sturdier vine than Malvazia and relatively low yielding.

Boal has quite rich taste and a fuller body than Verdelho. It's labeled as medium sweet, but as always with Madeira, acidity is so high, that the residual sugar is often felt to be dryish to off dry on the palate. It's more the aromas that make one feel the sweetness, or a perception of it.

1988 Château de Beaucastel

1988 Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf du Pape;
(Served blind) Ruby, pink rim. Some dust and anise, quite fresher palate happily, high acidity, ripe tannins, a bit lean finish. 81
With answer in hand, an off bottle, had this several times, and never like this one, even if never that much of a wine....

1988 Conterno Cascina Francia

1988 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia;
(Served blind) Ruby with brick rim. Perfumed, dark berries, some VA, sweet lilies, vanilla and mint. High acidity, apple tartness, high of ripe tannins, mouthwatering, lean finish. With more air (it was decanted) tar, roses, anise. 89

1988 La Chapelle

1988 Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle;
(Served blind) Ruby with garnet rim. Floral and red berries. Some metallic notes, tomato. Fairly high acidity, balanced, ripe tannins, a bit hollow and sharp finish, not an optimal bottle. 82

1988 Cos d'Estournel

1988 Château Cos d'Estournel;
(Served blind) Ruby with garnet rim. Bell peppers, herbs, Cab F nose, dark berries behind. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively, nuanced, good length. 90

I was on a very nice Chinon, something like Clos de la Dioterie from Joguet. This wine needed four hours in a decanter to start to smell like a real Bordeaux, the day after, I wrote the following note:

Ruby, garnet rim. Herbs, cassis, bell peppers, spices, anice, some leather and a touch of cigars and fine sweet tobacco. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean and quite elegant body, long. 90

88 Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin

1988 Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin;
(Served blind) Garnet with brick rim. Mocca, morellos, faint hint of anise. Good acidity, a bit on the lean side, some dry tannins, a bit short. Some strawberries after a while, feels one-dimesjonal, a bit tender. 84
After a while, I was on Pinot.....

93 Musar

1993 Château Musar;
(Served blind) Bright ruby, brilliant garnet rim. Some VA, cherries, redcurrant's, leather, layered. Rounded texture, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mouthwatering, elegant and fruitdriven. Some VA sort of carries the whole thing about. 92
My guess was Musar, 2000.

95 Tannin monster

1995 Castelnuovo Berardegna Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva;
(Served blind) Towards opaque, garnet rim. Vanilla, sweet blueberries, faint hint of coffee. High and fresh acidity, mouthwatering second before the mountain of massive tannins completely dries the palate and glues your gums to your teeth, tannic finsih, not that long. 87
(I was guessing Tannat something...)

1999 Mastroberardino Taurasi

1999 Mastroberardino Radici, Taurasi Riserva;
(Served blind) Deep ruby, massive nose, compact, ripe and sweet, vanilla and blackberries. Medium plus acidity, high of ripe tannins, ripe, intense, sweetish, but one-dimensional finish. Perfumed and minty. 86

07 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia

2007 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia;
(Served blind) Ruby, garnet rim. Carrot, spices, tomatoes, dreid oregano, anise, red berries, with air, some floral notes. High acidity, high tannins, somewhat short. 86
I was in Italy, nowhere near Piemonte on this one....

1958 Barolo

1958 Negro G. Giovenale Barolo;
Garnet with orange rim. Lots of sediments. Anise, licorice, cherrystones and redcurrant's, caramel. High acidity, tannins almost gone, just a few astringent ones left, fairly long if one-dimensjonal, bitter finish, declining quickly. 84 for the best few minutes.

89 Potel Clos de la Roche

1989 Nicolas Potel Clos de la Roche Grand Cru;
(Negoc bottle) Garnet, brick rim. Earth, dirt, leafy, some strawberries clinging on for their bare life, far in the back. Herbs. Goos acidity level, tannins almost gone, grapefruit finish. Never opened up, even the day after. Not optimal bottle? 85

03 Clos du Marquis

2003 Clos du Marquis;
Ruby, very youthful, surprisingly young even, just as thight, or maybe tighter than a Les Forts a few months back. Cassis, touch of spices and vanilla, blueberries and chocolate. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit, long, needs time. Served blind, people was guessing 08 vintage! 91

1979 Scharzhofberg Spätlese

1979 Vereinigte Hospitieren Trier, Sanctus Jacobus, Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese;
Pale golden with orange tints. Some petroleum, apricots and oxidized, overripe yellow apples. Medium plus acidity, gives a lazy feel for a Riesling, starting to dry, somewhat bitter finish. 84

Madeira of the week 4: 1950 Barbeito Terrantez

1950 Barbeito Terrantez;
Deep amber, yellow rim. Intense nose, complex, nuts, dried fruits, some orange marmalade. High acidity, intense palate, layered, extremely long. 93

From Alex Lidells book on Madeira; 'Terrantez, which has a black variant Terrantez Tinto, is first recorded in Madeira in the eighteenth century. We know howevere, that it was widely cultivated at Lamego in the Douro region of the mainland Portugal as early as 1531, so it may well have arrived in Madeira earlier. The grapes are sweet and the sugar content fairly high. Terrantez all but died out during the phylloxera blight. In 1921 Silva and Meneses report that it is 'cultivated on Porto Santo (neighbouring island) but appears to be extinct or almost extinct on Madeira'. Happily it is still with us and appears, if the increasing number of more recent vintages to be found is any guide, to be gaining ground'.

The problem with Terrantez is that it does not graft well on American rootstocks, so phylloxera is a constant threat. By taste it's somewhat fuller and more intense than Verdelho, acidity seems higher, but not as sweet as Boal. It normally falls somewhere between these two in style. Arturo de Barros e Sousa (ABSL) on the other hand makes a very dry Terrantez style, which is almost peaty on the nose, and Artur Olim (one of the owners of ABSL) call it the Whisky of Madeira.

1993 Château Poujeaux;
Ruby, garnet rim. Some blackcurrant's, anise, some floral hints. Good acidity, ripe tannins, fairly mature, easy going, good length. 77

81 Ch La Grave

1981 Château La Grave (Trigant de Boisset);
Ruby, thin orange rim. Plums, chocolate, redcurrant's, cherry-stones. Lean, lacks nearly everything on the palate. 45

1978 Ch Pontet

1978 Château Pontet (St-Emilion Grand Cru);
Ruby, orange rim. Figs, plums, anise. Lean but fairly elegant texture, somewhat lean finish. 53

76 Coutet (St-Emilion)

1976 Château Coutet, St-Emilion Grand Cru;
Touch of coffee and hints of figs, more or less dead.

1975 Château Côte Baleau

1975 Château Côte Baleau, St-Emilion Grand Cru;
Dry and dusty, dead.

75 Angelus

1975 Château Angelus;
Dead

06 SHL

2006 Château Smith Haut Lafitte;
Ruby, seems to be closing up, at least more closed than last time I tried it, more herbs and less minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, long and elegant finish, needs time. 91

06 Sierra Cantabria Amancio

2006 Sierra Cantabria Rioja Amanicio;
Ruby, lovely modern Rioja style, the Temperanillo showing off with blueberries and licorice. Good acidity, ripe tannins, well balanced, long. 92

05 Livio Felluga Refosco

2005 Livio Felluga, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso;
Ruby, some herbs and bell peppers, fairly green nose with some red berries behind. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, green and somewhat sharp feel to it, good length. The day after, most of the greeness were gone, redcurrant's, cherries, some leather and feels more refined, good length. 88

40 yrs Sandeman's Tawny

Sandeman's 40 Year old Tawny;
Amber, gold/green rim. Oxidized and Maderized nose, resembling som Sercial's of similar age. Dried fruit, nuts, caramel, quite intense. Good acidity, the sweetness covers it up a bit, on the verge of tired. This bottle had been open for a while, I don't know how long. My last bottle of this was about three years ago I think, and that was far better.... 84

2010 Dr.Thanisch BG Spätlese

2010 Dr.Thanisch MÜller-Burggraef Bernkasteler Graben Riesling Spätlese;
Pale lemon yellow, apples, apricots, pineapples, some minerals and raspberries. Sweet, light and elegant with a lovely, gentle acidity, a bit short. 86

From Croatia, 08 Zlatan Crljenak

2008 Zlatan Crljenak Makarska Croatia;
Crljenak is supposedly the parent of Zinfandel. Deep ruby, plums, figs, cooked jam, just a touch oxidized feel to it, coffee, dust and black tea. Medium acidity, but feels acidified later on the tasting curve, ripe tannins, fairly elegant, good length. 80

07 Dominio do Bibei Lalama

2007 Dominio do Bibei, Lalama, Ribeira Sacra;
Ruby, floral, forest berries, anise, cinamon, ripe nose. Medium acidity, few and ripe tannins, a bit short. 83

08 Domaine Serene Yamhill

2008 Domaine Serene, Yamhill Cuvée Willamette Valley Pinot Noir;
Ruby with pink rim, sweet strawberries and cinamon, drizzled with vanilla sugar. Medium acidity, ripe tannins and few of them, quite elegant, just a faint touch of alcohol and oak on the finish. 87

08 Flor de Pingus

2008 Flor de Pingus;
Deep ruby, sweet, plummy, almost Port-like nose, just less intense, with alcohol showing. Sweet palate, fairly intense, ripe, boring, one-dimensional. 82

2010 Pichler-Krutzler

2010 Pichler-Krutzler Riesling In der Wand, Wachau;
Pale lemon yellow, closed nose, some apples, minerals, redcurrant's, wet schistes. High acidity, mellow feel to it even so, ripe, almost feels of a touch residual sugar, lovely balance and length. 89

08 RWT

2008 Penfolds RWT;
Deep ruby, ripe, exotic, spicy, blackberries and cassis. Deeper feel to it, nuanced nose. Good acidity, ripe tannins, sweet but manages, long length. 90

06 Alion

2006 Bodegas Alion;
Deep ruby, almost exotic nose, blueberries, plums, spices, ripe feel to it. Rounded texture, wood comes creeping in on it mid-palate, doesn't let go, smoky, toast finish. 87

08 Gaja Rossj Bass

2008 Gaja Langhe Rossj Bass;
Pale lemon yellow, tropical, yellow plums and pineapple. Good acidity, quite oaky on the palate, ripe, smoke, a bit warm finish. 86

07 Fevre Vaudesir

2007 William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir;
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, steely nose, touch of something tropical in the back. Good acidity, lively even if it feels low for 07, elegant texture, long length. 90

Madeira of the week 3: 1932 D'Oliveiras Verdelho

1932 D'Oliveiras Verdelho;
Deep amber, orange rim. A touch of VA obsures this one a bit, caramel, nuts and spices. Fresh acidity, quite rich, fuller body than some Verdelho's, long finish. 88

Alex Lidell states in his Madeira book that: Verdelho in Madeira is different from Verdelho Branco or Gouveio, the variety of Verdelho found on the mainland Portugal, but is the same variety found on the Azores. Verdelho was the commonest variety until Phyloxera, at which time it was estimated to two- thirds of the island's vineyards, but now has the smallest production of the classical varieties (Bastardo, Terrantez and Moscatel is rarer by the way). It was not regarded as anything other than a good variety until early this century, when it was elevated to classical status.

Verdelho now grows mainly on the north side of the island, where it is more suited to the harsher climatic conditions. Must has marked acidity, and normally a potential alcohol of 10-12% Verdelho is often reffered to as medium rich, and the driest after Sercial. One producer, Artur de Barros e Sousa normally make a drier Terrantez, but this grape is normally similar or slightly sweeter, at least on the palate, than Verdelho.

I have not been able to find any other tasting note on this 1932 Verdelho, from any sources.

08 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno

2008 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno;
Ruby, cherry-stones, leather, blueberries, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit sharp on the edges, needs time, good length. 90

07 Paolo Scavino Bric Dël Fiasc

2007 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric Dël Fiasc;
Pale ruby, more tender feel on the nose, some roses in the back, cherries, licorice, shyer than other bottles of Bric Dël Fiasc's I've had, vintage or new style? Elegant acidity, ripe tannins, good length, maybe a bit vague? 89

07 Sassicaia

2007 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia;
Deep ruby, elegant and layered nose of cassis, plums, coffee and spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant if somewhat leaner style Sassicaia, good length. 90

06 Sandrone Le Vigne

2006 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne;
Bright ruby, ripe nose, sweet morellos, anice and a faint hint of rose-water. On the sweet and ripe side for Barolo, high acidity, playful, ripe tannins. 90

99 Salon

1999 Salon;
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Youthful, closed, minerals, lime, some apples, layered and nuanced. Fresh, lively and high acidity. Mousse of astonishing elegance, mouthwatering, very long. 93 now, very likely to get higher with age.

09 St.Urbans-Hof Riesling Auslese

2009 St.Urbans-Hof, Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese;
Pale lemon yellow. Elegant og yellow and tropical fruits. Rounded, well integrated acidity, elegant texture, long, feels a bit shut, needs air to glow, this never got that chance. 89?

09 Saint Préfert

2009 Domaine Saint Préfert, Collection Charles Giraud Châteauneuf du Pape;
Dark ruby, licorice, plums, tobacco, blackberries. Good acidity, ripe tannins, either the acidity of the 09, or a new, less ripe style seems to be emerging in Châteauneuf du Pape. 89

08 Roumier Clos de la Bussière

2008 Roumier, Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière;
Pale ruby, wild strawberries, herbs and redcurrant's. Thight, towards lean body, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, needs time. For now, 88

04 Roederer Cristal

2004 Roederer Cristal;
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Seriouslu closed and more so than some bottles during last autumn. Lemons, lilies of the valley, elderflower, a faint hint of minerals. Fresh, lively acidity, balanced, very long, needs time. 93

06 Rieussec

2006 Château Rieussec;
Golden, intense of apricots, peach and tropical fruits, botrytis. Big texture, fat style, acidity always just on the low side to be really refreshing, beautiful balance, very long. 93

09 Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger GG

2009 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Scharzhofberger GG;
Pale lemon yellow, minerals and yellow apples. Fresh and high acidity, very lively, still elegant and well balanced. Can be enjoyed allready or kept. 92

06 Mouton Rothschild

2006 Château Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby, way better than last bottle. Layered, nuanced, blackcurrant's, leather and spices. Anise and herbs with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced and long finish. 94

06 Rauzan-Ségla

2006 Château Rauzan-Ségla;
Ruby, violets, plums and cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, feels very elegant. When young these wines are very ripe and almost sweet, and already this one has been to Saville Row. 91

08 Ramonet Les Ruchottes

2008 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes;
Pale lemon yellow, minerals, oak notes, apples, layered and quite intense nose. Fresh acidity, more minerals on the palate, balanced, long finish. 92

1976 Montrose

1976 Château Montrose;
Very top shoulder fill, ruby with brick rim. Closed first, was also somewhat cold as a spur of the moment opening from the cellar. Double decanted and opened up quickly as soon as the temperature was correct. Nose of leather, figs, some cassis and tobacco, good acidity, mellow, rounded texture, few and ripe tannins, elegant and mature Montrose, somewhat lean finish, good length. 91

A great evening at Oddvar Walle Jensen's.

1978 Mouton Rothschild

1978 Château Mouton Rothschild;
A level fill, soaked cork. Ruby with brick rim. Leather, somewhat exotic, cassis, plums, cherries, rich if not too intense nose, spices and sweet tobacco. Fresh acidity, tannins soon gone, somewhat lean, mouthwatering if not a great Mouton, it manages to give more pleasure than most wines at this score. 90

05 Moulin d'Issan

2005 Moulin d'Issan;
Ruby, massive sweet nose (in this context), some bell peppers, easy going, one-dimentional and ripe. 78

This is not a second label of Château d'Issan as one would expect, but a Bordeaux Superieur grown right on the border with the Margaux appelation.

From www.thewinedoctor.com: The vineyard at d'Issan has been expanded considerably since the acquisition by the Cruse family, gradually increasing from just a couple of hectares after the war to the current size of 53 hectares, a small proportion of the entire estate which covers 120 hectares, most of which is pasture. Until recently these vineyards included 22 hectares outside the Margaux appellation, some classified as Haut-Médoc and some as a Bordeaux Supérieur. The former is named for the Candale family, as Château de Candale (typically 6000 cases per annum). The latter, introduced in 1988, is the product of the vines on the right-hand side of the poplar-lined driveway up to the château (the vines on the other side are AC Margaux), and is labelled Moulin d'Issan (typically 6000 cases per annum). Both provide for potential confusion with the second wine, discussed below, but they are in fact sourced consistently from the same vineyards and their differing appellations should remind us of this. Having said this, in recent years it has been "all-change" at Issan, with the reclassification of some of these vineyards. In October 2007 10 hectares of the Haut-Médoc vineyards have been reclassified as AC Margaux, so the production of the Candale Haut-Médoc will be drastically reduced from the 2008 vintage onwards, and as the fruit is destined for the second wine volumes of this will be greatly increased.

1964 Citran

1964 Château Citran;
A level fill, bottled by Hoki Vinimport, Horsens, Denmark. Cork crumbled. Ruby with thin brick rim, figs, mature, old nose even, somewhat dusty. Lean, acidic, iodine, OK finish, dying quickly. 71

Broadbent stated drink up allready in 1988...... And thats the only note I've found on this wine....

1981 Ausone

1981 Château Ausone;
Ruby, thin brick rim. A level fill, splendid cork. Very little on the nose, maybe a faint touch of brett, some cassis, getting somewhat more sexy with air, coffee and chocolate, ripe plums. Good acidity, tannins more or less gone, easy going, a bit simple even if better with air. 83

Back in 1990 Parker felt this was an austere, tough-textured and charmless wine that needed ten more years to soften and develop. This bottle got twenty, and the tannins was almost gone.

1970 Grand Puy Lacoste

1970 Château Grand Puy Lacoste;
Ruby, towards brick rim. A level fill, soaked cork. Coffee, licorice, dust, iodine, feels like a tired bottle on the nose. Luckily the palate is better, some cassis, Pauillac aromas, towards high acidity, most tannins gone, those left are astringent, lean but good length. 86

I'm not sure this was quite an optimal bottle, Parker describing a full bodied chewy wine, but that was in 96, meaning fifteen years ago, even so, difficult to see that it could have lost so much fruit in those years. But he also mentions that there is inconsistent bottles, and believing many to have been cooked, that sounds more like this one. Broadbent also seem to note bottle variations, some concentrated and even Port-like, this didn't resemble that at all.

95 Lèoville Poyferré

1995 Château Léoville Poyferré;
Ruby, garnet rim. Blackcurrant's, bell peppers, touch of leather and anise, just starting to evolve, yet it feels too rough and not ready. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, youthful, slightly astringent and closed, long. Give it another five to ten years. 91

02 Domdechant Werner Auslese

2002 Domdechant Werner, Hocheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Auslese;
Golden on the verge of amber tints, mature nose, touch of betroleum, some botrytis, overripe apples and orange marmalade. Medium+ level of acidity for Riesling, well integrated and balanced, have matured very quickly, reminding me of many 76's, not too complex, good length. Drink very soon. 86

08 Quinta do Noval

2008 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port;
Dark ruby, massive youthfull Port, layers of dark fruit, very fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins, almost exploding on the palate, very long. Extremely young, on the border of waste to drink now. 94

07 JJ Prüm WS Spätlese

2007 Joh.Jos.Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese;
Pale lemon yellow, apples, minerals, pineapples, fresh and lively feel, very well behaved sort of Mosel, elegant. Needed time to open (as usual), acidity balanced and well integrated, long length. 93

06 Pontet-Canet

2006 Château Pontet-Canet;
Ruby, elegant cassis nose, some herbs in the back, just to liven things up a bit. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, long length. 93

08 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande

2008 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande;
Ruby, cassis, floral, typical and elegant, but a bit uninspired still. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, long length. Well made wine, but not quite at the level one expects from Comtesse, but they seem to be back on track from 2010. 91

03 Pichon Baron

2003 Château Pichon Longueville Baron;
Ruby, fresh and elegant for 03, not showing too much evolution yet, somewhat resembling the 03 Forts de Latour a few months back. Classic Pauillac aromas, somewhat less acidity, ripe tannins, long length. 92

2010 F.X.Pichler

2010 F.X.Pichler, Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd Trocken;
Pale lemon yellow, elegant nose of apples and yellow plums. Fresh acidity, balanced and elegant, but lacks some vibrancy, one doesn't need a second glass.... 88

02 Belle Epoque

2002 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque;
Pale lemon, tiny bubbles. Elegant nose if a bit closed, fresh acidity and feels more intense than usual for Belle-Epoque, firmer acidity as well. Refreshing, lime citrus and minerals, needs time. 93

Madeira of the week 2: 1937 Sercial

1937 D'Oliveiras Sercial;
Amber with thin green rim. Layered nose, complex, nuts, caramel, spices, like spice shop, floral, orange peel. High acidity, mouthwatering, superb texture, old enough to have melloved, beautiful balance, concentrated feel, very long. 93

Some believe that Sercial and Riesling is the same grape, especially I've been told so many times on the island. The acidity is high for sure, but the flavours are so different, so I have my doubts. Noël Cossart in his book, Madeira, the island vineyard just states: "Sercial, pale, light-bodied, dry or extra dry, 0,5-1,5 degrees Baumé. True Sercial has a nutty nose and with age becomes mellow and medium dark, the mellowness rather covering the dryness." That is spot on for this one. Then he continues,"Sercial or Cercal was thought to be similar to the German Riesling, which, like its cousin in the Rhine valley, grows at high altitudes(?). It is fairly prolific, but rather shy bearer, and only grows in certain places. The grapes are round, soft and white, the leaf has four round lobes and very strong nerves which, by their projection, form a wrinkled appearance. The fruit is rather tasteless but fragrant."

Trevor Elliot in his book: The wines of Madeira states: " Sercial is grown mostly on the north of the island in Seixal, Porto Moniz, Ponta Delgada, Sao Vicente and Arco de Sao Jorge. In the south its mainly planted in Jardim da Serra at an altitude of 600-700 metres. (On the north coast, 100-150 metres) The grapes and bunches are medium in size, have high levels of acidity and the must have potential alcohol of 10-11% abv. Lastly, Alex Lidell's book, Madeira finaly states: "-to the German Riesling, it has no conection at all. On the mainland (Portugal) the variety is called Esganocao, or 'dog strangler', so called because of its mouthpuckering, astringent acidity."

The driest of the noble varieties.

08 Château Latour

2008 Château Latour;
Ruby, cassis, intense, leather notes, just like Mouton, a bit closed now, last bottle, only three months ago, was more open. Has a refined feel to it, regal. Gorgeous acidity, ripe tannins, superb length. 95+

08 Mouton Rothschild

2008 Château Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby, leather, cassis, peppers, heavier notes and fruits, even minerals, but this feels a bit more shut than the others. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant, flirting and seductive, long length. 94

08 Château Margaux

2008 Château Margaux;
Ruby, massive intensity of subtle notes. The aromas just jumps in your face. Violets, pepprs, blackcurrant's, cigars, very layered, complex and nuanced. Fresh acidity, very integrated in the body, ripe tannins, marvelous texture, stunning length. 95

08 Haut-Brion

2008 Château Haut-Brion;
Ruby, more minerals and less rich than La Mission, feels more nuanced, easier to look into, blackcurrant's. some floral notes, layered and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, gorgeous texture, a bit fuller on the body than some vintages of HB, absolutely superb finish. 95

08 La Mission Haut-Brion

2008 Château La Mission Haut-Brion;
Ruby, intense nose, minerals and layered, complex, rich feel to it, quite estate typical. Gorgeous acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, lively and great length. Save it for ten to twenty years, before it will really shine. 95

09 von Kesselstatt Kabinett

2009 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Riesling Kabinett;
Pale lemon yellow, watery rim. Apples and some minerals, touch of something more exotic in the back. Fresh and lively acidity, very elegant and nicely balanced, a very fine basic Kabinett. 82

07 Penfolds RWT

2007 Penfolds RWT
Deep ruby, peppery and dark, ripe plums, some vanilla, layered and quite refined nose. Fresh acidity, ripe and high tannins, balanced, elegant shiraz, long. 92

2000 Palmer

2000 Château Palmer;
Ruby, tobacco, anice, blackcurrant's, starting to show development, getting ever more elegant, both as a whole with age, and with air in the glass. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, opening up beautifully, but should be kept further. 94

01 Ornellaia

2001 Ornellaia;
Ruby, tobacco, prunes, cassis, leather, starting to show some maturation. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, elegant and long aftertatse. 92

08 Niellon Chassagne

2008 Domaine Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroie;
Pale lemon yellow, closed nose, some apples and minerals. Very elegant palate, acidity feel integrated in the texture, layered, but still feels a bit boring somehow. 90

1979 La Tour Haut-Brion

1979 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;
Top fill, in the neck, ruby with garnet rim, cassis, plums, minerals, smoky touch, leather, anise, spices and hint of flowers. Later on cherry stones. Quite intense nose, reminds me of La Mission (to which it is now incorporated). Fresh acidity, towards high even, tannins ripe and soon gone, layered, velvety, slightly lean finish, but very long. Splendid bottle. 93+

1987 Montecillo Gran Reserva Especial

1987 Montecillo Gran Reserva Especial;
(Magnum) Ruby with towards brick rim. Licorice, warm blueberries, vanilla, spices, cinamon. Fresh acidity, tannins almost gone, elegant, fairly mature, good length. 91

08 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion

2008 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion;
(Former Bahans Haut-Brion, 2nd label of Haut-Brion) Ruby, minerals and a touch of Pessac smoke, cassis, leather, refined nose. Feels subtle, yet intense. Entising acidity, ripe tannins, superb balance, long. 92

08 Pavillon Rouge

2008 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux;
Ruby, floral, violets over superbly elegant blackcurrant's, touch of herbs behind. Fresh acidity, elegant and ripe tannins, very elegant structure and texture, long. 92

96 Nenin

1996 Château Nenin;
Ruby, garnet rim, very tender nose, giving little, some blueberries, anise and figs. Medium acidity, ripe and soft tannins, drinking well now, more fruit on the palate, good length. 87+

Madeira of the week: 1832 Terrantez

After a splendid trip to Madeira, during the Christmas holidays, and tasting some astonishing Madeira's. I find that these underrated wines need some publicity. I have therefore decided to at least try to have one Madeira note published for each week of the entire 2012. I start with a magnificent bang of excellence.

1832 Barbeito Terrantez;
Golden with orange hue and yellow rim. Even as the cork went out of the bottle, it filled the room with aromas, pouring it into the glass, one could just sit and sniff it while the glass still rested on the table, getting ever more intense as the nose and glass finaly met up. Enormous intensity, layers, superb complexity, has almost every aroma you can think of, dried fruits, smoky hints, cakes, spices, wood polish, just ads and ads. Fresh and high acidity, intense, layered, fantastic length, minutes, could still taste it half an hour after the last sip. 100


This was tasted when visiting Barbeito outside Funchal, from the bottle above. I have never seen a note on this one, and never seen it for sale anywhere..... It's not listed in Alex Lidell's book on Madeira, and on the Madeira Wine Guide (which seems not to have been updated since 2006), it's not mentioned in the vintage guide. (There were a few other wines missing from that list as well). But another wine is, the 1832 Oscar Acciaioly Terrantez. On the 1795 Barbeito Terrantez, the Madeira Wine Guide states the following: "As Alex Liddell explains in his book “Madeira”, this wine originally belonged to the Hinton family. Oscar Acciaioly bought the wine from the Hintons. Later the wine was divided between his descendants. Mario Barbeito bought part of the remaining wine and returned it from demijohns to wood." Maybe this will be a future release and was bought in similar fashion, from the same source. As with the 1795 Barbeito Terrantez that I have actually tasted a few years back (a benchmark Madeira), this 1832 was magnificent as well.