Madeira of the week 2: 1937 Sercial

1937 D'Oliveiras Sercial;
Amber with thin green rim. Layered nose, complex, nuts, caramel, spices, like spice shop, floral, orange peel. High acidity, mouthwatering, superb texture, old enough to have melloved, beautiful balance, concentrated feel, very long. 93

Some believe that Sercial and Riesling is the same grape, especially I've been told so many times on the island. The acidity is high for sure, but the flavours are so different, so I have my doubts. Noël Cossart in his book, Madeira, the island vineyard just states: "Sercial, pale, light-bodied, dry or extra dry, 0,5-1,5 degrees Baumé. True Sercial has a nutty nose and with age becomes mellow and medium dark, the mellowness rather covering the dryness." That is spot on for this one. Then he continues,"Sercial or Cercal was thought to be similar to the German Riesling, which, like its cousin in the Rhine valley, grows at high altitudes(?). It is fairly prolific, but rather shy bearer, and only grows in certain places. The grapes are round, soft and white, the leaf has four round lobes and very strong nerves which, by their projection, form a wrinkled appearance. The fruit is rather tasteless but fragrant."

Trevor Elliot in his book: The wines of Madeira states: " Sercial is grown mostly on the north of the island in Seixal, Porto Moniz, Ponta Delgada, Sao Vicente and Arco de Sao Jorge. In the south its mainly planted in Jardim da Serra at an altitude of 600-700 metres. (On the north coast, 100-150 metres) The grapes and bunches are medium in size, have high levels of acidity and the must have potential alcohol of 10-11% abv. Lastly, Alex Lidell's book, Madeira finaly states: "-to the German Riesling, it has no conection at all. On the mainland (Portugal) the variety is called Esganocao, or 'dog strangler', so called because of its mouthpuckering, astringent acidity."

The driest of the noble varieties.