Pomerol av Neal Martin

Boken om Pomerol har jeg lenge savnet, ett område hvor historien er mer grumsete enn i mye av resten av Bordeaux. Her er det små eiendommer som har byttet navn opp igjennom historien, så sporene er vanskeligere å følge og det ligger mer arbeid bak hver eneste fakta. Boken er lett og lese på en fortellermåte, nesten som om Neal sitter i rommet og leser for deg. Enkelte detaljer som hva slags musikk han hørte på på vei inn innkjøringen for å få riktig stemning er kanskje ikke nødvendig, og vi deler i alle fall ikke musikksmak eller opplevelsen av den spesifikke musikkens stemning.

Det blir også noen litt lange utgreinger om eiernes personlighet i noen tilfeller, men når dette er sagt er det ikke så mye å klage på. Jeg synes kanskje en så tykk bok, og relativt dyr, godt kunne tatt for seg noen av de mindre eiendommene bedre, både fordi alle ikke har råd til å drikke de største, men også fordi det kan være spennende historier her også. Samtidig har han allerede brukt mange år på å skrive boken, og en gang må det publiseres og man må trekke en sluttstrek.

Det er fortellerglede og glede for temaet, det skinner igjennom hele veien. Håndtegnede vinmarkskart laget av produsentene selv er både en interessant detalj, men gjør også boken mye mer personlig, om ikke dønn eksakt. Imponerende historiefortelling, såvidt meg bekjent den mest detaljerte boken i så måte om distriktet jeg kjenner til. Vi er ikke alltid enig i alle viner og produsenters nivåer på kvalitetsstigen, eller årganger på enkeltvinnivå, men slik vil det alltid være. Kanskje ikke boken jeg vil bruke som innkjøpsguide, i alle fall ikke i de fleste tilfeller, men glimrende for å finne produsenter man blir nysgjerrig på, og har lyst til å oppsøke flasker av. Og når man først sitter med en Pomerol i glasset, og leser om eiendommen i boken, blir det nesten som om man besøker eiendommen igjen, sammen med Neal selv.

Dette er ikke en vinbok man må ha, eller er det? Det er mange Bordeauxbøker man bør kjøpe før denne. Denne er for de viderekommende, ikke lesemessig eller detaljmessig, men fordi Pomerol, i alle fall som venstrebreddorientert nordmann, ofte kommer ett godt stykke ut i kjennskapet med Bordeaux. Men Pomerol er samtidig det mest personlige området i Bordeaux, der man kommer nærmest slottseierne, og der man føler det er lettest å komme innpå folk. Pomerol har lav prioritet hos Vinmonopolet, noe som er veldig synd. Kanskje burde mange nettopp derfor kjøpe boken, for å lære seg mer, bli mer nysgjerrige på produsentene, og etterspørre de mer i sitt polutsalg. Vi er en nasjon som elsker Burgund, og Pomerol er det mest burgundske i Bordeaux, både dyrkingsmessig, eiendomsstørrelser og stilmessig. Boken er mer enn velskrevet nok til å starte en interesse.

Two D'Oliveiras Old Wine Madeira's

1957 D'Oliveiras Old Wine Madeira:
Wine of Tinta Negra Mole. Deep amber, golden rim. Rich but simpler nose, dried fruits. Fairly fresh acidity, fruity and easy going palate, elegant body, fairly short. 82

1929 D'Oliveiras Old Wine Madeira:
Again Tinta Negra Mole. Gorgeous amber colour with gold rim. Richer nose than the 1957, but similar. Fairly fresh acidity, smoky feel, quite intense, spices and nuts, good length. 87

1862 D'Oliveiras Sercial

1862 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva:
Slightly paler amber hue. Some nuts, orange peel, again a more tender style. High and very lively acidity, quite an elegant nerve to this one, superb texture, not quite as long as the 1875, but almost an equal. 95

1875 D'Oliveiras Sercial

1875 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva:
Gorgeous orange-amber colour. Way more tender after the 1910, refined and almost fragile, some nuts, orage peel and orange marmalade. High acidity, fresh, mouthwatering, superb texture, elegant, lively and amazing length, stunning! 97

1910 D'Oliveiras Sercial

1910 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva:
Orange amber colour. Massive nose of nuts, orange peel and cinamon, almost exploding out of the glass, fruit cake. High acidity, intense, tight, some caramel, enormous complexity, hefty, not the easiest to drink actually. 94

1924 D'Oliveiras Sercial

1924 D'Oliveiras Sercial Reserva:
Amber, yellow rim. Nuts, orange peel, rich and intense nose, focused. High acidity, a somewhat fuller body Sercial, maybe more fruity. Very long but could be more complex. 93

1960 Cossart Gordon Sercial

Cossart Gordon Sercial:
Amber with yellow rim. Rich, nutty and dried fruits nose. Fresh acidity, leaner and focused, ever so slightly smoky touch, refreshing, slightly sharp as usual with Sercial, long. 91

1981 Barbeito Verdelho

1981 Barbeito Verdelho Frasqueira:
Orange-amber, yellow rim. Quite oxidated style, caramel, nuts, some spices and fruit cake nose. High acidity, a bit raw structure, alcohol is showing, fine fruit behind, feels a bit over done, a bit made. 86

96 Barbeito Colheita

1996 Barbeito Boal Colheita Casco 307 a+e:
Only 744 bottles made. Amber. Dried fruits, spices, cinamon nose. High acidity, mouthwatering, a bit lean mid-palate, more expressive finish, richer and fuller style, slightly raw, good length. 88

Ultra rare ABSL tasting

2004 ABSL Verdelho:
Pale orange. Subdued apples, fruity and pure nose. Dried fruits, touch of nuts. Playful acidity, lively and elegant, again pure, long finish. 90

2005 ABSL Boal:
Pale orange. Rich, fruity, clean and elegant nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, lovely fruit, stunning balance, lively and long. 91

2004 ABSL Boal:
Pale orange. Some bananas, apricots, very pure and fragrant nose. Fresh acidity, elegant palate, fruit driven, more yellow fruity flavours, good length. 89

2005 ABSL Malvazia:
Pale amber. Richer, tropical- and dried fruits nose, oranges and citrus. Fresh acidity, more spicy palate, superb balance, gorgeous aftertaste. 93

1983 ABSL Verdelho:
Pale amber. Pure, fruit driven nose, very elegant, just a touch oxidative, little for Madeira, floral, lilies. Beautiful and fresh acidity, elegant and lively, waves of pure fruits, apricots, mouthwatering. Very long. 94

ABSL Muito Velho Doce:
Meaning very old and unknown age. Amber gold. Rich nose, apricots and orange peel nose. Fresh acidity, elegant, lively, nuanced and refreshing, long. 92

1979 ABSL Terrantez:
Pale orange. Citrus, nuts, a touch of spices, fairly dry for Terrantez. Fresh and fairly high acidity, leaner and focused palate, fantastic finish, layers, almost smoky, dried fruit, Madeira's Islay in a way, very long. 95

1980 ABSL Terrantez:
Orange-amber. Lime and lemons nose, touch of nuts and spices. High acidity, lively, refreshing, rich, more intense than the '79 but lacks the nuances and complexity, long. 94

1980 ABSL Malvasia:
Orange-amber colour. More powerful nose, rich, but still has the hallmark purity of fruits that no other Madeira producer manages quite as well. Fresh acidity, maybe more balanced with the fruit than most of the rest of the range, orange marmalade palate, long. 93

ABSL Malvazia Reserva Vehla:
Pale amber. Pure nose, fruity, touch of nuts. Playful acidity, rich, almost creamy texture, elegant and again pure. Long finish. 92

ABSL Reserva Vehla Meio Doce:
Amber. Simpler fruit and nose, lacks complexity after the others. Fresh acidity, lively, highly enjoyable, probably Tinta Negra or blend (nobody knows). 87

1990 Pesquera Reserva

1990 Pesquera Reserva:
Deep ruby, almost black, thin brick rim. needed a few hours to become more nuanced, heavy dark fruits first, later morellos, blackberries, some vanila, slightly floral and lots of liquorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rich, intense, the oak is always noticable on the palate, dark berries, good length. 89

En vingurus guide til himmelen

En vingurus guide til himmelen, ført i pennen av Per Mæleng, kan nesten virke mer som en guide til ett lite mareritt. Det er ett hav av fallguver om man skal nyte vin. For oss som har vært i faget en stund kommer ikke de aller fleste av disse synspunktene som noen overraskelse, og man blir kanskje litt overrasket over kommentarene og mottagelsen fra enkelte lesere der ute. Nå er heller ikke boken akkurat ny lenger, men bunken med vinbøker som skal leses er stor her på kontoret, og den har ikke vært prioritert.

Til dags dato har jeg aldri tatt mot til meg å be en for parfymert gjest om å hoppe i dusjen, men jeg har nok hatt mer enn lyst til å sette meg på andre siden av bordet, og har mer enn en gang gjort det. Folk som røyker sigar er ikke noe mindre problem. Men på tross av nitidige beskrivelser av glassrengjøring og andre detaljer, så blir jeg sittende igjen med en følelse av at selv om det er mye kunnskap og erfaring hos forfatteren, så virker det som om vingleden er blitt borte. Å smake eller drikke vin synes mer å dreie seg om ritualer og detaljer, enn det å nyte vin. Og det blir jo litt trist det hele.

Jeg ser for meg Jack Nicholson som står og vasker hendene ørten ganger under kokende vann i "Livets lyse side". Jeg ser for meg noen tvangstanker. Jeg ser for meg nykker i øyekroken ved synet av fingeravtrykk på glassene foran ham, a la sjefen til inspektør Clouseau. Jeg savner nysgjerrighet, entusiasme, glede. Alt virker så stramt og strengt, og ensformig. Men den er heldigvis ikke så filosoferende som hans mange artikler i magasinet Vinforum, så den er ganske rask å lese. Kanskje til og med usedvanlig detaljert og faktabasert til Mæleng å være.

Missforstå meg riktig, det er ikke mangel på fakta over det han vanligvis skriver, men som ansatt i Vinmonopolet har man en rekke begrensninger over hva man kan skrive og ikke rundt tema vin. Produsenter bør ikke nevnes, og vindistrikter bør heller ikke fremheves mer enn høyst nødvendig, og med ett blir det fort noe svevende for leserne å forholde seg til. Her er det konkret. Kanskje mer en guide til alle detaljer man bør huske på enn en guide til nytelse. Vinen blir nok bedre i glasset, men klarer man som sagt å huske på å nyte den?

Personlig vet jeg at Mæleng, som så mange andre i det norske vinmiljøet, har smakt en rekke sjeldne og gamle skatter. Jeg savner at ikke disse historiene kommer på trykk, alle disse opplevelsene, fra de som var med den gang man kunne kjøpe eller få smakt de gamle legendene uten å selge bilen. Jeg håpet på ett vel av slike historier. Fra restaurantbesøk hvor man fikk en gammel skatt for en slikk og ingenting, eller produsentbesøk hvor det plutselig dukket opp noe fra 1959. Slikt var langt vanligere før enn i dag.

Han er en sær gjest, men også en ærlig gjest. Jeg er av de som er veldig glad i mat, men ikke alltid like glad i å lage den. Skulle Per Mæleng finne på å ta seg en tur til meg for en vinaften, så håper jeg han har med mat nok til oss begge.

01 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala

2001 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala:
Ruby. Dark berries, vanilla first, later tar, roses, cherries and liquorice after half an hour in decanter. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, oaky palate first, bit rough around the edges, later a bit sweet and some alcoholic notes, rounded texture, quite fresh but always a bit warm, liquorice palate. Long. 92

Luce and Lucente

2010 Tenuta Luce Della Vita Lucente: 

Deep ruby. Dark fruits, touch of vanilla, ripe, cherries, leather and blueberries. fresh acidity, ripe tannins, ripe, sweet, quite soft, fruity,  rounded texture, long finish, slightly warm. 90

2009 Tenuta Luce Della Vita Luce: 

Deep ruby. Dark berries, cherries, violets, coffee, blueberries, ripe, rich, scented overtones. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rich, ripe, bit warm, velvety texture, but textured finish. Sweet. Long. 92

04 Pichon Comtesse

2004 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande:

Last bottle did not impress and I had to taste it again in case something was faulty. This bottle was exactly the same, easy, bit lean, lacks naunces, intensity and refinement. 88

2006 Hexamer In Den Felsen Auslese

2006 Hexamer Schlossböckelheimer In Den Felsen Riesling Auslese:

Towards golden, slightly dull colour. Apples, touch of apricots, slightly floral and some pineapples. Elegant and subdued minerals beneath. Fresh acidity, elegant and rounded, fruity, refreshing and very transparent blanche apples palate, slightly sour. Long. 92

08 Fenocchio Cannubi

2008 Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi:

Bright ruby, scented, violets, floral, nuanced and cherries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, quite refreshing, rounder texture, bit biting finish that seems typical for the vintage, wait five years. 91

Petit-Village 10 and 05

2010 Château Petit-Village:

Ruby. Scented, nuanced and elegant nose. Fruity, blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, leaner palate, elegant, lovely texture, long. 92

2005 Château Petit-Village:

Bright ruby, garnet rim. Figs, scented, evolving nose, tobacco and cinamon, bit spicy and almost exotic. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, refreshing, quite elegant, long finish. 90

07 and 08 Pichon Baron, 04 Comtesse

2007 Château Pichon Longueville Baron:

Ruby. Fruity, elegant, nuanced and almost lively nose, layers if not that complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity but lean palate, fairly refreshing, good length. 89

2008 Château Pichon Longueville Baron:

Ruby. Scented, fruity, elegant and nuanced nose, flirting and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing, lovely balance, long and nuanced. 93

2004 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande:

Ruby. Tight, a bit closed and nose seems to lack concentration. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit lean, again easy going, should be more of everything. 88

2006 Vinha Paz

2006 Vinha Paz Colheita:

Deep ruby. Dark berries, some wood and coffee nose. Fairly fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounded body, not the most complex, but gives pleasure. Not even that sweet. Good length. 87 *****

Guiseppe Mascarello tasting

2008 Guiseppe Mascarello Barolo Villero:

Pale garnet. Tar, roses, elegant and nuanced nose. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing, nuanced, elegant and just lovely, long and refined. 94

2006 Guiseppe Mascarello Barolo Villero:

Pale garnet. Tarr, roses, nuanced and scented nose, elegant, refined and gorgeous. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, mouthwatering, slightly fuller body than '04 and '08, but not quite as nuanced, long. 93

2004 Guiseppe Mascarello Barolo Villero:

Bright garnet. Scented, tar, roses, violets, liquorice and nuanced nose. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, fruity, elegant, lively, mouthwatering, nuanced and superb. Long. Manages to be intense, fruity and lean at the same time. 94

2008 Guiseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato:

Bright garnet. Fruity, scented, elegant, nuanced, refined, superb nose. Transparent. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, lively, elegant, nuanced, refined, superb freshness, long and gorgeous texture, very long indeed. 96

2007 Guiseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato:

Bright garnet. Leather, anise, touch of VA. Scented, lacks some nuances after the '08. High acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, "kinder" and elegant palate, lacks the nuances, some refinement and complexity, still beautiful. 92

2004 Guiseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato:

Bright garnet. Scented, nuanced, lifted, elegant, complex, transparent and layered nose. High acidity, high of ripe tannins, lively, refreshing and nuanced, stunning, elegant and long. 96

2003 Guiseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato Ca d'Morissio Riserva:

Bright garnet. Scented, liquorice, red berries, cherries, nuanced and complex nose, lauered and transparent. High acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively and seductive, massive in a way and still tiptoeing, intense yet fragrant and lifted, gorgeous, incredible length. 97

1991 Latour and 00 Carruades de Lafite

2000 Carruades de Lafite:

Ruby, garnet rim. Nuanced, elegant, refined, complex, a lovely if subdued nose, especially for the vintage. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, nuanced, fresh, elegant, superb balance, long finish. 91

1991 Château Latour:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, fruity, elegant, nuanced if lighter nose, spicy, trying to seduce. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, leaner, elegant but lacks some nuances, still lots of pleasure. Good length. 89

00 Domaine de Chevalier, 07 Haut-Bailly and two Larrivet's

2009 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion blanc:

Towards lemon yellow. Grapefruit, smoke and vanilla nose. Bit rich. Fairly fresh acidity, elegant texture, fruity, again overshadowed by vanilla and oak spices, creamy texture, good length. 87

2007 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion:

Ruby. Cherries, red berries and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, leanish, good length. 87

2007 Château Haut-Bailly:

Bright ruby. Scented, fruity, cassis, minerals and lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, elegant, lovely texture, balanced, a bitlean finish. 90

2000 Domaine de Chevalier:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, nuanced, floral and minerals nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, elegant, lovely texture, rounded, bit lean for the vintage, maturing nicely, mineraly finish. 92

2008 Grgich Hills

2008 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon:

Ruby. Fruity, scented, cassis and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and nuanced, quite elegant and refreshing, rounded texture, long. 92

1978 Barbeito Boal

1978 Barbeito Boal:
Amber, yellow rim. Dried apricots and nuts on the nose, quite intense. High acidity, fruity, quite intense but could have more nuance, refreshing, good length. 88

Two Laroche Chablis Grand Cru's

2005 Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot:

Pale lemon yellow. Minerals and cool fruity nose, chalky, fresh for vintage and age. Fresh acidity, fruity, elegant, surprisingly focused yet again, long. 91 *****

2007 Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos:

Pale lemon yellow. Minerals, flint, apples, tight and nuanced nose, lemons. Fresh acidity, fruity and nuanced palate, lively, elegant and almost creamy texture, long. 92 *****

Three relatively inexpensive ones, two from Bordeaux and one from Burgundy

 2011 Château Bois-Martin:

Ruby. Some cassis, minerals and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body, elegant, not quite the 09 and 10, or twelve, but will soldier on as one of my house wines even so. Good length. 86 *****

2007 Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin:

Bright ruby. Scented, fairly floral and red berries nose, touch herbal and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant if a bit lean, good length. 86****

2008 Diane de Belgrave:

Ruby. Fruity, cassis, some vanilla and slightly scented nose. Fresh acidity, ever so slightly raw and still a bit to yputhfull for full pleasure, even with two hours of air (even if not decanted) it wasn't rounding it's edges off. A bit of a surprise. 86 ***

Three young from Madeira

1973 D'Oliveiras Verdelho:

Deep amber. Caramel, nuts, dried fruits, rich and intense, wood polish nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, elegant and lively, long. 90 ****

1984 D'Oliveiras Boal:

Amber, golden rim. Nuts, spices, some dried fruits on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, fruity, elegant and long. One of few younger vintages of Madeira that feels fully balanced. 92 *****

1988 D'Oliveiras Terrantez:

Amber, golden rim. Nuts, elegant, dried fruits nose. Fresh acidity, elegant, superb, lively and long, nuanced, another fine example of this very rare grape variety. 92 *****

2008 Barbi Brunello

2008 Barbi Brunello di Montalcino:

Ruby. Fruity, scented, ripe and rich nose. Fresh avidity, ripe tannins, fruity, sweet, elegant and refreshing, long if a bit easy going. 87 ****

Five from La Rioja Alta

2006 La Rioja Alta Vina Alberdi Reserva:

Deep ruby, brick rim. Figs, anise, blueberries and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, ripe tannins, bit lean and slightly dry finish, to much oak to handle for the fruit? 85 ****

2005 La Rioja Alta Vina Arana Reserva:

Ruby, garnet rim. Red berries, vanilla, spicy and some figs notes on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruitier if somewhat lean as well, again drying finsih. 87 ****

2004 La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, floral, nuanced and dark berries nose. Anise, cigars and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, fruity, lively and elegant, good length. 88 *****

2001 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904:

Ruby. Scented, fruity, anise, figs, nuanced and elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, polished, elegant, lovely balance, long. 91 *****

1998 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, nuanced, quite intense and flirting, blueberries, leather and anise nose. Fresh avidity, ripe tannins, structured, bit leaner palate than nose suggests, elegant, lovely palate, long. 90 *****

04 La Nerthe Cuvée des Cadettes

2004 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, ripe, fruity, coffee, deep, dark and intense, with scented and floral notes, liquorice nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, intense, more texture than it first seems like behind the fruit, bit sweet but mostly dark fruity. Long. 93 ****

Another corked L'Oratoire des Papes

2011 Clos de L'Oratoire des Papes:

Corked and of the four or so bottles I have ever tasted from this property, three have been corked......

Onda restaurant with Wines of Rhône

Wine and food pairings at Onda restaurant with wines from Rhône. Food and the matching in Norwegian, tasting notes of the wines in English as usual. The food and wine pairings was meant more as a suggestion and in some cases experimental as for example a white Vacqueyras is normally not the first wine that springs to mind with king crab, nor is Hermitage and dessert.

New rating of drinkability

***** The bottle will empty before you know it

**** The bottle is likely to empty

*** The bottle may empty, at least with food

** Unlikely to be emptied

* You will not finish more than a glass, if you are a human. 

The French Ambassador to Norway stopped by

2010 Saint Jean du Barroux Ventoux L'Argile:

Ruby. Fruity, rich, dark berries, anise, intense of cherries. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, ripe but also leaner body and texture, dry finish, good length. 85 ***

Viltterrine med søte tyttebær og salat

Elegant terrine, nyanserte smaker og flott balanse, tyttebærcolissen gjorde matchen noe fruktigere og mer elegant med liten mengde, vinen ble mindre tør i avslutningen, men vinen ble slankere des mer man tilførte, og etterhvert tørrere i finish. 

2012 Domaine Maby Tavel Prima Donna Rosé:

Pale garnet. Light and fruity nose, fresh. Freshish aciditu, sligjt spritz, easy, fruity, light, quite elegant, good length. Ever so slightly sweet. 82 ****

2010 Monterius Vacqueyras Mineral:

Pale golden. Rich, honey, wax, some yellow fruits nose. Low acidity, fruity, waxy palate, minerals, almost smoky, good length. 84 ****

Kongekrabbe med agurk, rug og dillmajones

Meget elegant og saftig rett med forfriskene eplemos, en elegant dill majones som matchet krabben bedre enn ventet, og sprøstekt syltynt rugbrød som fikk en noe mer jordlig substans i de noe" høytflyvende" dill og eplesyrlige smakene, samt sødmefulle krabben. Virkelig flott rett. Tavelen matchet krabben greit om man bare hadde den på tallerkenen, men ble noe søtt og flatt, og litt kunstig fruktig. Som helhet imponerte faktisk Vacqueyrasen, den ble litt for rik og mektig, men mindre så enn alene. Men mineraliteten i vinen dro frem en utrolig elegant mineralitet og sødme fra krabben, så matchen ble faktisk ganske bra. Den elegante dillmajonesen (lite dill) og eplemosens friskhet fikk bort litt av voksen og vinen fremsto mer elegant og nyansert. 

2012 Cave de Rasteau Côte du Rhône Village Ortas:

Ruby. Rich, fruity, dark berries and a bit alcoholic nose. Intense liquorice. Fairly fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, quite lively, rich and dark berries, ever so slightly warm finish. Spicy. Good length. 85 ***

2011 Baron d'Escalin Grignan les Adhémar:

Ruby. Sweet and overripe wild strawberries, raspberries and ever so slightly floral, verging on artificial notes. Anise and spices. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, leaner palate and alcoholic, warm and feels unbalanced. Good length. 81 ** 

Torsk med potetcrème og sauce vierge:

Saftig og meget elegant torsk, elegant rett, smakfull og flott balansert. Inn på topp ti av torskeretter jeg har hatt. Vinene klarte ikke å imponere meg. Grignanen overdøvet retten helt og de elegante tonene fra kjøkkenet forsvant. Ortas ble metallisk, og for meg er det enda en bekreftelse i rekken av at torsk for meg er noe for hvitvin. Grignanen trenger grillet kjøtt og Otrasen noe lettere kjøtt. 

2012 Mas de Libian Côte du Rhône Khayyam:

Decanted. Ruby. Scented, fruity, anise, floral, pepper, blue- and blackberries nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, warm and alcoholic sweetness, easy going.  Rich and warm finish. 83 ***

2011 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas:

Ruby. Rich, anise, dark berries, fruity and intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more elegant palate even still very sweet. Ripe berries, easy going, good length. 85 ****

2011 Guy Farge Saint Joseph Terre de Granit:

Ruby. Rich, fleshy, sweet and ripe nose, dark berries. Thyme. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, sweet, lush, rounded, easy but lacks nuance. Good length. 84 ***

Lam med jordskokk, spinat og hvitløk

Helt nydelig rett, mørt og saftig lam med en liten fettrand som var perfekt tilberedt, smakfult og kraftig som lam ofte er, men nyansert. Utrolig elegant hvitløk, gir en ny dimensjon til retten og det samme gjør spinaten som bare ga ett lite men særdeles delikat løft. Den hvitløken tror jeg blir historisk. Kanskje hele retten. Vinene derimot var vanskeligere. Khayyam ble alkoholsk og noe overdøvende, Saint Josephen mer så mens Gigondasen klarte det bedre, så føler jeg hele veien at de overdøver de flotte nyansene i maten, de blir for fruktige og alkoholske. Alkoholen og varmen overdøver neste munnfull, smaksløkene blir numne. 

2011 Chapoutier Saint Joseph Les Granilites:

Towards golden. Some butter, wax, minerals, yellow fruits, almonds notes nose. Low acidity, minerals, wax, honey, intense, complex, long. Rich finish. 89 ****

2007 Château Val Joanis Luberon Griottes:

Ruby. Red berries, dusty, earthy minerality, vanilla and seems to be highly toasted. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, Good length, bit warm. 84 ***

Norsk ost

Munkeby, gikk greit med den hvite, taklet også aprikosesyltetøyet. Men samtidig runder aprikosen av osten, kanskje så mye at den nesten mister egenarten.  Den  røde ble noe metallisk og fikenen her overdøvet osten helt for meg. 

2011 Delas Frères Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes:

Ruby. Scented, liquorice, cherries, blackberries, rich and massive nose. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, soft and velvety, rounded, rich, fruity and even if a bit warm, feels almost seductive. But the finish is a bit to warm, long. 90 ***

Variasjon på blåbær med mørk sjokolade

Kraftig sjokolade med syrlige og deilige blåbær som løftes av mynte. Elegant og nesten parfymert og floral rett. Helt strålende. Nesten ett lite sitruspreg på den. Det fungerer med vinen, men jeg hadde foretrukket en søtere og friskere portvin. 

2010 Chapoutier Rasteau:

Ruby. Intense, green, herbal and tar nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, bit lean, herbal, good length. Warm and alcoholic. 84***

2007 Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine du Thalabert:

Ruby. Rich, fruity, intense and quite fruity nose, dark berries and plums. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweet, fruity, ripe but quite refreshing, good length. 86****

This lunch and tasting was very interesting, even if it confirmed yet again my feeling of the issues with alcohol and fruit that the wines of Rhône has from my view. The wines numbs the palate, takes away the nuances of excellent dishes even if the flavours are superb matches by themselves. More is normally not better, and many these wines feels more like new money than descreet elegance. They are a bit in your face. I have had some truly elegant older Rhônes the past two weeks, with 12,5 to 13,5 alcohol giving perfect balance and less ripe and fruity character to the wines. It was possible to make this before Mr Parker went fruit salad crazy. A Bordeaux producer I met last week told me that the 2009 vintage with 14,5 alcohol was getting increasingly difficult to sell in the US, so hopefully we will be seeing a shift to lighter and more elegant wines from Rhône as well soon. It is possible, most grapes are mature enough at 13,5 degress potential alcohol. The restaurant on the other hand, Onda, made some fantastic dishes on this day, lot's of nuances, very elegant and refined. Lovely.

89 Chave Hermitage, 94 Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillion, 96 Latour-Martillac, 00 Pontet-Canet and more

2007 Antonin Guyon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles:

Towards lemon yellow. Apples, yellow fruits and some minerals beneath, tropical, bananas and vanilla. Medium acidity, fine tuned minerals keeps it fresher than the acidity manages, yellow fruity, slight flinty touch, long. This wine, or at least bottle as the producer is unfamiliar to me, was untypical of both vintage and vineyard. 90

1996 Château Latour-Martillac:

Golden. Touch of apricots over oxidized apples, orange marmalade notes, minerals and flint. Fresh acidity, fruity attack that quickly gives way to freshness, citrus and lemons, lovely balance, some nuts arriving. Long. 91

1994 Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon:

(Magnum) Ruby, garnet rim. Floral, anise, cinamon, scented, slightly peppery, red berries, some darker berries, needed two and a half hours to open in decanter, almost rusty iron note. Gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner palate and can't follow up the nose, feels flatter and slightly edgy, refreshing and a bit of iron. Bloody and iodine. Long. 93

1989 Chave Hermitage:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, fruity, floral, elegant, refined, red and dark berries, complex and nuanced nose, gorgeous. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and verging on mouthwatering, refreshing, lively and nuanced, blueberries, red berries and slightly cinamon spicy finish, blood, hung meat, graphite minerals, hung grouse, gorgeous wine. Beautiful texture, very long indeed. Superb now but will soldier on. 96

2000 Château Pontet-Canet:

Deep ruby, garnet rim. Needs air to open. Somewhat scented, cassis, some vanilla, slightly floral, quite intense nose. Anise and fine leather. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and intense, lively and refreshing, more youthful than I remember last bottle about two years back, youthful, one of the most youthful from the vintage lately as well. Long. Balanced. 94

2001 Château Doisy Vedrines:

Golden, amber tints. Apricots, vanilla, apples, cinamon, pineapples, fruity nose. Fresh acidity, elegant and lively, nuanced, refreshing, a bit leaner than most, lovely balance, long. 92

Five from Bordeaux

2011 Château Canon: (Canon-Fronsac)

Ruby. Some cassis, minerals, vanilla and red berries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner than 09 and 10 and lacks the freshness of '12 but still quite lovely. Good length. 85

2007 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot:

Ruby, garnet rim. Fruity, scented, elegant and nuanced nose, some anise, floral notes, layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing if a bit lean, lovely balance, drink now-2020. 90

2007 Château Potensac:

Ruby. Fragrant, cassis, slightly floral notes, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner palate, maturing nicely and ready to drink now and over the next five years, good length. 87

2001 Château Potensac:

Ruby. Cassis, floral, scented, some vanilla and fruity nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity after the 07, has more of everything and almost feels younger, good length. Now til 2022. 89

2008 Croix de Beaucaillou:

Ruby. Cassis, violets, anise, elegant and seductive nose, layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, rounder than last bottle, elegant, lovely. 90

2009 and 2007 Château Mercier Cuvée Prestige

2009 Château Mercier Cuvée Prestige:

Ruby. Fruity, some dark berries, hint of spices and vanilla, slightly scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, bit lean and something unripe and raw lurking in the back, needs time but I'm not quite sure it will be polished of. Good length. 12% Malbec in the blend, which gives some of the dustiness. Kind of cocao bitterness in the finish. Feels cool and even so it's ripe at 14,5%. 86

2007 Château Mercier Cuvée MPrestige:

Ruby. Red berries, some vanilla, blueberries, touch of coffee on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body, again that slight rawness, leaner finish, good length. 84

Four from Olivier Leflaive

2010 Olivier Leflaive Meursault:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, smoke, spices, subdued minerals nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, creamy texture, richer style, again smoky and minerals, good length. 89

2010 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, nuanced and more subdued spices and smoke on the nose, butter touch. Fresh acidity, lively, creamy texture, refreshing if not fully together, feels a bit "spikey", good length. 89

2009 Olivier Leflaive Santenay:

Pale ruby. Light nose of nettles, red berries and spices. Fresh avidity, ripe tannins, leanish, spicy, riper fruit palate, good length. 86

2009 Olivier Leflaive Volnay:

Bright ruby. Fruity, spicy, peppers, herbs touch over red berries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, deeper spices, fruity palate if on the lean side, good length, bit edgy finish. 88

Two Rieslings

2010 Langwerth von Simmern hattenheimer Mannberg Riesling EG:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, floral and nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, leaner, elegant and lively, lemony finish. 89

2011 St. Urbans-Hof Mehringer Riesling Alte Reben:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, flinty, elegant and quite focused nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, elegant, nuanced, delicate, long. 91

Four from Groebe

2012 Groebe Riesling trocken:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples and slight minerality on the nose. Fresh acidity, lively, bit easy, good fruity finish. 84

2011 Groebe Westhofener Riesling trocken:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, light minerality and elegant nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, elegant, rounded, a bit easy going, good length. 87

2008 Groebe Kirchspiel Riesling GG:

Towards golden. Apples, minerals, fairly fruity and nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, elegant, lively, apples and pears nose, light minerality, lovely balance, good length. 89

2006 Groebe Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel:

Pale golden. Apples, dried apricots and slighlty petroleum on the nose. Fresh acidity, rounded, fruity and elegant, quite lively and rounded texture, good length. 88

Four from Bassermann-Jordan

2010 Bassermann- Jordan Riesling trocken:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples and light mineraly nose. Fresh acidity, leaner style, fruity, slightly bitter apples, refreshing, good length. 85

2010 Bassermann- Jordan DeidesheimerRiesling Kabinett trocken:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, tighter nose, bit shut. Fresh acidity, fruity and quite elegant, minerals, leaner body, playful, good length. 88

2007 Bassermann- Jordan Pechstein Riesling GG:

Towards lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, elegant and nuanced nose. Yellow fruits notes. Fresh acidity, lively, fruity, rounded, elegant texture, touch of petroleum, long and almost spicy finish. 91

2007 Bassermann- Jordan Hohemorgen Riesling GG:

Almost lemon yellow. Apples, pears, yellow fruits, nuanced and fruity nose. Freshish acidity, fruity. Maturing, concentrated and rounded, long finish. 90