Madeira of the week 17: ABSL Boal

ABSL Boal Reserva Vehla;
ABSL: Artur de Barros e Sousa Limited, a very different company indeed. Such charm, such rarity. They make about 4000 bottles in total every year, in one, two or three cuvees. So every wine is a rarity that would make names like DRC embarrased. And, (if you're not lucky), you have to buy the bottle, at their shop, in Funchal (and thats an experience by itself). Nobody alive knows the age of this wine, as the father and grand father of the Olims brothers running ABSL today, wasn't too keen on writing everything in details. This wine is older than the 1970's, probably. How old? Anyones guess. Pale amber, spices, exotic spices, floral, citrus, orange marmalade, but also something fresher, like lime zest, nuts, cake, cinamon, clove, nuanced and elegant. Fresh and high acidity, refreshing, playful, refreshing, pungent, in a gentlemanly way, it's like a Bentley with a leopard coloured exhaust-system. Very elegant, but something going on. Waxy texture, long finish. 92+

99 La Tour Haut-Brion

1999 Château La Tour Haut-Brion;
Ruby, red berries, leaner minerals, still terracotta, more refined, layered and nuanced. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively and mouthwatering, superb texture, long. I love the wines from here more and more, and now they do not excist anymeore.... 94

99 Domaine de Chevalier rouge

1999 Domaine de Chevalier rouge;
Ruby, intense and ripe feel to it, terracotta, cheese, vanilla, burnt wood, popcorn. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 89

99 La Loviere rouge

1999 Château La Louviere rouge;
Ruby, vanilla, terracotta, some barrel notes and red berries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more fruit on this bottle than my last one, a bit short pulls down. 86

99 Kirwan

1999 Château Kirwan;
Ruby. Blackcurrant's. Single minded nose, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit hollow, OK length. 82

82 Talbot

1982 Château Talbot;
Very top shoulder fill. Ruby with brick rim. More mature bottle, plums, figs and leather. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant but lacks the glory of a perfect bottle, good length. 91

82 Palmer

1982 Château Palmer;
Very top shoulder fill. Ruby, thin brick rim. Ripe, plums, leather, closed first, opened up more later on. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fuller palate, elegant and drinking nicely. Long. 93+

Jacquesson 733

Jacquesson 733 (Degorged 2nd quarter 2009)
Pale lemon yellow. Tiny bubbles. Yeasty nose, hops, apples, a touch beery. Fresh acidity, quite intense mousse, slightly bitter, long finish. 91

76 Montrose

1976 Château Montrose;
In the neck fill. Ruby, brick rim. Mature nose. figs, cherry-stone, prunes, leather, slightly perfumed, cigars, complex and lively nose. Fresh acidity, tannins soon gone, alive and kicking, but drink very soon. Good length. 90

90 Lynch-Bages

1990 Château Lynch-Bages;
Ruby with garnet rim. Plums, sweet tobacco, rich nose. Rich palate as well, good acidity, ripe tannins, feels simple minded and straight-forward, less layered, lesscomplex. But has a good length, but quite boring compared to the 96 by it's side. 93

96 Lynch-Bages

1996 Château Lynch-Bages;
Ruby with garnet rim. Leather, cassis, pencil-shave, touch of cedar, faint hint of floral notes, cassis and minerals. Intense palate, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very elegant, superb balance, fresh and very long finish. Seductive now, will age gracefully further. 94+

99 Lynch-Bages

1999 Château Lynch-Bages;
Ruby, gorgeous nose, quite rich, compact, some plums. Tobacco, cedar and chocolate with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some plums, elegant, ripe palate, a bit of a surprice for the vintage. 91

00 Lynch-Bages

2000 Château Lynch-Bages;
Ruby with garnet rim. Ripe cherries, tobacco, leather, floral, actually tightens with air, getting rougher, or rather more focused. Fresh acidity, almost creamy texture, high of ripe tannins. Layered, mouthwatering finish, long. Wait at least five years. 94

04 Lynch-Bages

2004 Château Lynch-Bages;
Ruby, slightly closed feel, needs time to open, this is very typical at the moment for 04, and especially Pauillac. Stone fruit, red berries, more perfumed with air, turning out quite elegant. Very fresh palate, higher acidity, some pencil shave, minerals, ripe tannins, still young. Wait another five years or more. 90

06 Lynch-Bages

2006 Château Lynch-Bages;
Ruby, fuller nose, more berries, perfumed, some plums, touch of vanilla, coffee-beans, some mint. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, plums, lovely balance, actually drinkable now (but I would cellar it). 91

07 Lynch-Bages

2007 Château Lynch-Bages;
Ruby with pink rim. Cassis, some vanilla, slightly floral, just a touch of herbs, very seductive nose, not too intense, cassis and perfumed. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, somewhat fruitier style 07, has opened since my last tasting at the MW 07 Claret tasting, quite mouthwatering finish. Enjoyable. 89

2010 Blanc de Lynch-Bages

2010 Blanc de Lynch-Bages;
Pale lemon yellow. Fresh lime, asparagus, minerals, vanilla, grapes and grapefruit. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, creamy, good length. 89

00 Les Ormes de Pez

2000 Château Les Ormes de Pez;
Ruby, garnet rim. Plums, some floral notes, touch of grilled paprika, sweet tobacco. Towards sweet palate, ripe, fresh and lively acidity, tannins very ripe, long. 90

01 Les Ormes de Pez

2001 Château Les Ormes de Pez;
Ruby, thin garnet rim. Starting maturity on the nose, some leather, again some prefume, red berries. Focused palate, refreshing, elegant fruit, somewhat oaky finish. 87

04 Ormes de Pez

2004 Château Ormes de Pez;
Ruby, leather, porrigde, some animal notes, touch of spices, anise. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 88

05 Ormes de Pez

2005 Château Ormes de Pez;
Ruby, youthful, touch of bell peppers, slightly perfumed, some red and dark berries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, quite lively, stone fruits, cinamon and vanilla finish. 89

93 d'Angerville Clos des Ducs

1993 d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs;
Bright ruby, brick rim, brett all the way to the farm, seems to lack acidity, tired bottle.

Tokaji Masterclass at the Hungarian Embassy in Oslo Part VII: Essencia

It's rare to get to taste any Essencia (not to be confused with Aszu Essencia), and rarer even, to have two side by side.

2007 Crown Estate Tokaji Essencia;
Golden, very rich nose, but not too intense. Apricots, extremelly layered of all kinds of (yellow) fruits. Almost flinty behind. Gooseberries, raspberries, superb elegance, beautiful, if on the tender side, maybe even fragile, long, superbly elegant. 94
500 g.rs, 8,7 acidity, 3%

2005 Dominum Tokaji Eszencia;
Amber, floral and all kinds of fruits, some spices, a nose you could try to describe in book form. Imensely sweet, with superb acidity to back it up, playful and refined, gorgeous, refreshing even, stunning, and incredibly long. 98
614 g.rs, 17,5 acidity, 1,67%

Tokaji Masterclass at the Hungarian Embassy in Oslo Part VI: Aszu Essencia

First, a little note on Essencia. There are several ways of writing this, some write Essencia, some Eszencia, but I think I've seen Essenzia, Eszenzia and maybe another version or two as well.

A pure Essencia is free run juice, of the grapes, pressed by their own weight, inside a Puttonyo, or a basket/bin, of about 25 kilo if I remember correctly. The grapes have been shriveled to raisins. Aszu Essenzia is either pure Essencia, mixed ("watered down") with regular wine, or more than 6 Puttonyos aded (I've been told by producers). Aszu Essencia would be something like 8 or 9 Puttonyos, if this system were to be used.

2005 Pendits Tokaji Aszu Essencia;
Golden, fresh, just a hint of flinty minerals, raisins, peach, sultanas. Fresh acidity, playful and lively, very balanced, elegant and long. Lovely finish. 93+
219 g.rs, 10,4 acidity, 11% (The only Demeter certified Tokaji producer).

2000 Bodnar Tokaji Aszu Essencia;
Amber, apricots, raisins, layered nose, dried fruits, pineapple. Fresh and lovely acidity, refreshing and playful, elegant and long finish. 92+

2005 Dominium Tokaji Aszu Essencia;
Amber, rich nose, raisins and pineapple. Fresh, lively acidity, elegant, sort of feels to well behaved for it's own good. Good length. 91

2006 Dominium Muscat Lunel Tokaji Aszu Essencia;
Amber. Rich nose, layered of floral notes, roses, raisins, basil and strawberries, amazing nose. Superb acidity, playful, lively, stunning, minerals, truly mouthwatering, gorgeous, and stunning length. 97+
257 g.rs, 14,2 acidity, 7,75%

2003 Sauska Tokaji Aszu Essencia;
Golden, amber tints. Apricots, pineapple, fresh and youthful nose. Fresh and lively acidity, elegant, superb texture, one of the fresher 03 Tokaji's I've tried, long and very fruity finish. 94

Tokaji Masterclass at the Hungarian Embassy in Oslo Part V: 6 Puttonyos

Only 300 (500ml) bottles made, if you can find it, get it!

First of all, it wasn't a Masteclass as such, first there was a Masterclass of the different styles, then a tasting with more wines in a room next door. And, yet again, I'm so surprised by the difference of 5 and 6 Puttonyos, they are such different animals. 6 Puttonyos are so much richer and more complex.

2007 Beres Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos;
First a slightly corked bottle, then golden, fresh, apricots, peach, very clean and pure style. Fresh acidity, tender and carefull for a 6 Put, long and elegant, but will it give of more secrets? 90

2006 Crown Estate Muskatoly Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos;
Amber, sweet nose of grapes and raisins. Fresh, elegant, nivce balance and length. 88

2007 Tokajikum Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos;
Golden, amber tints. Apricots, yellow plums, fruit-forward nose. Fresh, superb elegance, lively, well balanced, long elegant finish. 91

2008 Barta Öreg Kiraly Dülo Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos;
1 of 300 bottles made. Golden, yellow fruits, superb acidity, gorgeous balance, extremelly pure, wine for meditation, sublime, long length. If you can find it, get it, and invite me. 95

2006 Dobogo Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos;
Golden, raisins, yellow plums, apricots. Fresh, lively, elegant and long. 92

1999 Lenkey Pincézet Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos;
Amber, raisins, figs, prunes and coffee. Fresh acidity, playful and elegant, but somewhat hollow finish. 89

2004 Dominium Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos;
Amber, raisins, nuts, elegant and refreshing acidity, playful and charming, good length. 89

Tokaji Masterclass at the Hungarian Embassy in Oslo Part IV: 5 Puttonyos

2002 Patricius Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos;
Golden, fresh nose of apricots, raisins, very youthful feel, fruit-driven. Fresh acidity, tender feel to it, fairly playful and elegant, well balanced. 88

2007 Crown Estate Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos;
Golden, raisins on the nose. Fresh, simple, raisins and caramel palate, stone from apricots, good length. 84

1988 Crown Estate Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos;
I think this is a sort of late cellar release, (the lower picture). Amber, minerals, oxidative style, almost smoky with raisins and figs. Fresh acidity, again smoky notes, intense, long, but lacks refinement. 88

2006 Beres Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos;
Pale golden, fresh nose of yellow plums and fruits, apricots and pineapples. Lovely acidity, playful and very elegant, long. 91

2005 Pannon Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos;
Slightly corked, not rated.

Tokaji Masterclass at the Hungarian Embassy in Oslo Part III: 3 Puttonyos

2008 Beres Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos;
Pale golden, violets, safron, dried fruits, apricots. Elegant, fresh and lively, nice length. 89

2005 Pannon Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos;
Pale golden. Simple nose, easy going flavors, very fresh acidity, good length. 86

Tokaji Masterclass at the Hungarian Embassy in Oslo part II

Off dry and medium sweet wines;

2010 Demeter Tokaji Elvezet;
Pale golden, quite boring nose, but lovely palate. Refreshing, elegant, lively and long. Tropical fruits. 89

2008 Barta Tokaji Szamorodni;
Pale golden, pineapples and peach. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, balanced, apricots, elegant wine. 88

2008 Patricius Katinka Late Harvest;
Pale golden, quite elegant and fresh, but a bit one-dimensional. 82

2008 Beres Magita Late Harvest;
Pale golden, melons, touch of honey and fruits. Fresh acidity, elegant and balanced. 87

2000 Pendits Furmint Quintessence;
Pale golden, aprocots, pineapples, spices, exotic touch. Fresh, lively and elegant, long. 89

2006 Dominium Late Harvest;
Golden, rich, yet elegant, apricots, honey, peach. Fresh acidity, nice balance, not the most complex, refreshing and elegant finish. Good length. 89

Tokaji Masterclass at the Hungarian Embassy in Oslo

First, some dry wines:

2011 Tokaji Kereskedöház Yellow Muscat Dry;
Watery yellow green. Fresh fruit, lime and green apples, asparagus and green grapes. Fuller body than expected from the transparent nose, acidity lower and almost creamy texture, good length. 75

2008 Királyudvar Sec;
Pale lemon yellow, slightly oxidized style, fat nose, honey, apricots. Very agreeable acidity, fresh even if it doesn't quite feel that way, citrus finish. 84

Madeira of the week 16: Barbeito Malvazia

2000 Barbeito Malvazia Single Cask;
I hear you say, boring, too young... But this is a very limited production wine. Only 980 pieces of 500ml bottles were made. Orange gold with a seductive and elegant nose for it's young age. Orange zest, nuts, dried apricots, layered nose. Fresh acidity, even on the high side, giving liveliness and playfullness to the wine. Lovely balance and long length. 90

2004 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée;

2004 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée;
Cloudy brick appearance. Fresher and more youthful than the last two bottles, feeling more like it was at release, but the colour is very different. Even some of the typical herbs of the vintage, but they're only evident for the first ten minutes. Redcurrants, unripe raspberries, coffee and morellos. Extreme acidity, almost on the harsh side, the teeth start to itch. The acidity carries the redcurrants far out in the aftertaste, visiting a place of minerality, almost salty. Strange colour for such a young wine, almost like 58 Gaja Barolo, but finally a bottle that didn't seem cooked. Yet again, a worrying cork, seems to have been more or less soaked. This is very typical of Domaine Leroy from my experience. 92

06 Bergström

2006 Bergström, Bergström Vineyard Pinot Noir;
Ruby, berries, rich, but not sweet Pinot, the barrel notes that was a bit too evident a few years back have lost it's grip, morellos and dark chocolate. Fresh acidity, some wood tannins left, but they have the passport ready in they're hand and will soon depart. This is tighter and fresher now than it was, will last further, but will it get more exciting? 90

Wow, 50.000 visitors so far!

50.000 visitors to this page. I'm very surprised, and humbled by this. I just have some views on some wines, writing boring notes, and now so many vistits.... Inspiring.

04 Clape Cornas

2004 August Clape Cornas;
Ruby. Peppery nose with blackberries and plums, fresh feel. Refreshing acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture and structure, lovely balance, a bit too young now, a very elegant Rhône. 91

06 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche

2006 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche;
Bright ruby, towards watery rim. What a boring wine! No, I don't mean boring, do I? The nose is closed, the nose is very closed, the palate as well. Closed. Out of business. Redcurrant lemonade at best. What a waste... After 3 hours, something started to happen. Well, the nose still boring to be honest. Redcurrant's mixed with some cassis, and a really tiny bit of leather....tiny bit. But the palate! Lean and angle at this stage, not that intense either. Some floral notes, strawberries, needed four hours, even pepper, spices, violets, like a very elegant Lafite, but much more tender, transparent and secretive. So refreshing, that kick of flavours that I love in Rousseau's, that subdued yet intense feel on the palate, that aftertaste for minutes, that.... I don't know. I just know that I love it. It's long! 95

Madeira of the week 15: 1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel

1875 D'Oliveiras Moscatel;
A rare grape, hardly been used in wine (only as eating grapes) since 1907 according to Noel Cossart. Almost brown, amber hue. Rich, very mature nose. Feels it's age, grapey aromas, nuts, vanilla, smoke, raisins, sultanas, and a hint of apricots. Also rich palate, on the verge of cloying, but acidity saves it in a playful manner just as one starts to notice the massive feel. More oxidized style than most Madeiras, but I have noticed this on other Moscatel's, maybe caused by less acidity from the grapes? A very rare wine (grape). Long. 94

98 Réserve de la Comtesse

1998 Réserve de la Comtesse;
(2ns Pichon Comtesse de Lalande) Bright ruby, gorgeous and light nose of violets, cassis, leather, cigars, almost perfumed and fleeting, like a summers night breeze, carrying scents from distant shores or gardens. Fresh acidity, ripe and elegant tannins, beautiful balance, always on the light side, good length.88

94 Castillo Ygay

1994 Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay;
Slightly cloudy ruby, broad garnet rim. Cork dry and smouldering to pieces! This bottle has layd still in the same cellar since release. Prunes, leather, figs, some dust behind. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, full body compared to many other bottles I've tried (from many different sorces), but lacks excitement, liveliness and vigour. Almost as old as a 1981 Montecillo two days back. What on earth are you doing at Murrieta these days? The wines are not even close to what they used to be.... 83

03 Lafaurie-Peyraguey

2003 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey;
Golden, apricots, botrytis, quite heavy, peach, honey, vanilla, orange zest. Feels fresher than expected, towards playful, elegant and balanced, sweet but manages to be refreshing. An unusual 03. 92

99 S.A.Prüm WS Auslese Fass 12

1999 S.A.Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Fass 12;
Pale golden. Nose of very ripe apples, apricots and some more indistinguishable fruits. Palate is balanced, but boring. Acidity feels to flat, making the rest feel bland and somewhat boring. 85

1981 Montecillo Grand Reserva

1981 Montecillo Grand Reserva;
Garnet with brick rim. Nose of tobacco, prunes, plums, figs, leather, mature, fruity and fine. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, elegant, nice balance and length, the fruit carries on througout, and the barrels can't be seen. This is the best bottle (of many, and two magnums) I've had of this, over several years. Lovely. 92

08 Smith Haut Lafitte blanc

2008 Château Smith Haut Lafitte blanc;
Golden, some apricots, honey-melon, citrus, vanilla. More subdued than it used to be. Fresh acidity, the crisp lemon freshness and flint seems to be leaving, getting more humble, but I think I liked it more up front. Long. 92

05 Batard-Montrachet

2005 Lequin-Colin Batard-Montrachet;
Premox? Not premox? Is it supposed to taste like this? Towards golden, flat nose of butter and barrels. Lacks acidity, lacks concentration, again barrel notes, feels high in alcohol, slightly burning finish, some buttery texture, to be honest, for a Batard, lacks everything. I've never been a big fan of Lequin-Colin, but this must be the lowest so far, but it might be faulty, it might have that starting premox, striping it of everything fascinating. This bottle.... 75

Madeira of the week 14: Barbeito 30 Yrs

Barbeito 30 years old Malvazia;
Golden, amber hue. Rich nose, complex of dried fruits, nuts and flowers. Fresh acidity, more nuanced and rounded, very intense, layered, complex and long. 92

Madeira of the week 13: 1978 Barbeito Sercial

1978 Barbeito Sercial Frasqueira;
Golden with amber tints. Intense of flowers, some nuts, elegant and layered nose. Fresh and high acidity, leaner, focused, almost sharp, refreshing and long. 91

1993 DRC La Tâche

1993 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche;
Ruby, garnet rim. Maturing nicely, almost citrus minerality, red berries, red currant's. Fresh acidity, ripe, soon at peak it seems, confusing texture, feels lean, and still almost chewy, focused, narrow, long. 93-94

02 DRC La Tâche

2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche;
Bright ruby. Tight, and tighter than the 04 one week before. Perfumed, spicy and strawberries. Fresh acidity, mouthwatering, elegant, somewhat hollow mid palate before rushing in for the aftertaste. Fantastic length, needs time. 95

02 DRC Richebourg

2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg;
Ruby, tight nose, strawberries, pepper, light of exotic spices. Holds back, and never seemed to open fully. Still seductive nose. Fresh acidity, surprisingly narrow, but manages to fill the mouth with flavours, a bit short. 93 for now.

03 DRC Richebourg

2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg;
Ruby, strawberry jam, herbs, perfumed nose. Fresh palate, but bland, easy going, lacks nuance, finesse and complexity, to short. 82

92 DRC RSV

1992 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-St-Vivant;
Ruby with garnet rim. Raspberries, light, lika a ballet dancer tiptoeing over the tongue. Fresh acidity, leaner, lacks something mid palate, then rushes in to quite a nice finish. 90

02 DRC RSV

2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-St-Vivant;
Ruby with pink rim, floral, strawberries and perfumed, spicy with air, getting more and more typical. Needed fourty-five minutes to open. Tight palate, fresh acidity, few tannins, long, 91 for now.

03 DRC RSV

2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-St-Vivant;
Ruby. Herbs, light nose of red berries, tight. Even after a few hours, tight. Fresh acidity, but feels hollow, lacks the playfullness and nuances, somewhat too short. 88

92 DRC Grands Échézeaux

1992 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Échézeaux;
Bright ruby, watery rim. Floral, elegant and perfumed, roses, strawberries, a faint hint of spices and vanilla, refined and stunning nose. Towards high acidity, playful, lively, pure, fresh, long and very elegant. 93

05 DRC Échézeaux

2005 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échézeaux;
Ruby, pink brick rim. Superb nose, strawberries, spices, nose is gorgeous and pure. Slightly riper style, but not as ripe as expected. Fresh acidity, lively and superbly balanced, tannins feels few and ripe, long, young and delicious. 94

04 DRC La Tâche

2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche;
Bright ruby. The purity on the nose of this wine is beyond description. Linear, not very complex, not that layered, but intense fruit, focused. Fresh acidity, nothing of the greeness of the vintage, lasting and lasting, extremelly long, minutes. It's Zen garden simplicity, a Miro of a wine. 96