Small Louis Michel flight

2011 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Sechets:

Pale lemon yellow. Lovely lime and mineraly nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, subdued feel, good length. 88

2010 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, lime and citrus flowers, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, playful and lively, elegant fruity finish, long. 90

2010 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Forêts:

Pale lemon yellow. Almost steely nose, cool minerals and lime. Fresh acidity, elegant palate, mineraly and nuanced, long finish. 90

2010 Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir:

Pale lemon yellow. Tight, fresh and somewhat closed nose. Fresh acidity, fuller feel to the body, elegant and refined, a bit of a ball at the moment, give it a few years in the cellar or decant it thoroughly. 92

2010 Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, slightly scented and nuanced nose. Fresh acidity, lively, elegant and refined. Long. 93

3 from Louis Jadot

2010 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals and nuanced nose. Fresh aidity, elegant, fruity, quite mouthwatering, more nuanced style for Jadot. Long. 90

2009 Louis Jadot Beaune Clos des Ursules:

Ruby. Fruity, red berries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, ever so slightly ripe, but refreshing. 90

2002 Louis Jadot Beaune Greves:

Ruby, garnet rim. Spicy nose, prunes and leather. Slightly rustic. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body, on the rich side. 88

3 from Henri Villamont

2009 Henri de Villamont Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embazées:

Pale lemon yellow. Elegant and fruity nose, minerals, light on it's feet but nuanced. Fresh acidity, almost creamy texture, lovely wine, long. 90

2009 Henri de Villamont Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Chatelots:

Bright ruby. Scented, elegant and flirting nose, nuanced. Fresh acidity, elegant palate, refined and long. 90

2010 Henri de Villamont Grands Echézeaux:

Bright ruby. Scented, some peppers and pure red fruits, nuanced and delicate, very easy not to notice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very elegant, velvety and soft, long. 91+

Four Rois Mages Rully's

2009 Rois Mages Rully Les Cailloux:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, floral, elegant, fresh, flinty and slightly rich. Fresh acidity, again rich mineraly palate, good length. 87

2010 Rois Mages Rully Les Cailloux:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals and fresh nose. Fresh acidity, playful and elegant, lively even, minerals, good length. 88

2010 Rois Mages Rully Les Cailloux Rouge:

Pale ruby. Fresh nose, simplistic but pure feel, clean and nuanced. Fresh acidity, few tannins, easy, good length. 86

2010 Rois Mages Rully 1er Cru Lespierres:

Bright ruby. Again light and elegant red berries fruit, simplistic with more nuances. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant, pure and good length. 88

Two from Bordeaux, two NSG

2011 Château de Seguin:

Deep ruby. Cassis, blueberries, some vanilla and tobacco. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit and body, even if slightly rough still. Give it a year or two. 84

2009 Château Les Roches de Gaby:

Deep ruby. Fruity blue- and blackberries with some vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and hides it's 14,5 alcohol well for this level. Fruity finish. 84

2010 Domaine R.Dubois Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Argillières:

Bright ruby. Scented, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh fruit but the oak needs a few years to settle down. Quite long. 87

2010 Domaine R.Dubois Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Porêts Saint Georges:

Bright ruby. Somewhat scented, more red fruity nose, elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant palate, refreshing, quite long. 89

06 Moulin Saint-Georges and Acte 2

2010 G Acte 2:

Deep ruby. Ripe and sweetish dark berries on the nose, touch alcoholic. Fairly fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fairly sweet fruit and other than that nothing much going on. 84

2006 Château Moulin Saint-Georges:

Deep ruby. Slightly scented, fruity nose, some plums and ripe blueberries, ever so slightly mineral. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, quite elegant and lovely balance. Needs a few more years in the cellar to round off a bit more, quite long. 90

2011 Le Bon Pasteur

2011 Château Le Bon Pasteur:

Deep ruby. Fruity. Floral, quite elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, easy going and elegant texture, fruity, good length. 87-89

99 Les Ormes Sorbet and more

2001 Château Ferrand: (Pomerol)

Ruby, garnet rim. Some liquorice, slightly dusty and plums nose. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, OK fruit and body, fruit is starting to dry a bit in the finish. 83

2004 Château Moulinet-Lasserre:

Deep ruby. Starting out very rustic and almost dry, but after fifteen minutes or so scented with som plums, blueberries an leather on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity if leaner style, a bit tight tannic structure for the fruit but works out nicely with food. 84

1999 Château Les Ormes Sorbet:

Deep ruby, garnet rim. Tobacco, figs, some prunes and cassis, evolved and quite intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins starting to polish off, fresh and lively, lovely at this stage while fruity, drink over the next three to five years. Good length. 88

6 inexpensive from Bordeaux

2011 Château de Roche (Loupiac)

Pale golden. Apples, and some tropical notes on the nose. Quite fresh, easy going but quite lovely. 84

2006 Château Priban:

Ruby, brick rim. Quite lovely nose with some cassis and figs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean and drying palate. First vintage under new Norwegian ownership where they had no hand in the first vintage. Only 900 bottles made. 77

2004 Château Lamarque:

Ruby with garnet rim. Some cassis, figs and leather on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean but has all it should have for an inexpensive Haut-Médoc. 85

2004 Château Rocher-Bonregard: (Pomerol € 12,-)

Ruby, garnet rim. Some plums, anise and blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, structured, towards a bit rustic in style, lean and slightly dry finish, more of the structure and not quite enough fruit than being too old. 84

2011 Château de Fontenil:

Ruby. Floral, fruity and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing and fruity, fairly elegant. 86

2010 Château Larruau: (Margaux)

Deep ruby. Scented, lovely fruit, easy going nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and elegant palate, quite refreshing, good length. 84

2010 Clinet

2010 Ronan by Clinet:

Ruby, fruity, some blueberries, elegant nose, fruity. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, easy going and rounded, a bit lean. 84 

2010 Fleur de Clinet:

(2nd Ch. Clinet) Ruby. Scented, layered, quite intense, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, quite lively, elegant and rounded texture, good length. 87

2010 Château Clinet:

Deep ruby. Fairly intense and very seductive nose, dark berries, lovely cigar box touch, gorgeous nose with more air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, lovely fruit and texture, intense, very long. 94

Philipponat tasting

Philipponat Royale Reserve Brut:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Some brioche and apples nose, slight minerality. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, leaner but elegant style, good length. 87

Philipponat Royale Reserve Non Dose:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Apples, fresher nose even if same blend. Crisper acidity, leaner and more focused, mouthwatering, good length. 87

Philipponat Brut Reserve Rosé:

Pale salmon, small bubbles. Some berries and fruity nose. Fresh acidity, a bit lazy mousse, lacks a bit of nuances. 

2005 Philipponat Grand Blanc:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Some yeast and apples, touch of yellow fruits nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, elegant mousse, nutty touch, good length. 89

2004 Philipponat Cuvée 1522:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Apples, minerals, focused nose. Fresh acidity, elegant and lean mousse, almost sharp, focused and tight. Good length. 88

2002 Philipponat Clos des Goisses:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Apples, minerals, nuanced, complex and layered nose. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, lovely fruit and balanced, long. 93

2001 Philipponat Clos des Goisses:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Apples, minerals, somewhat richer nose, some ox and nuts. Fresh acidty, elegant mousse, a bit short and stubby. 91

2000 Philipponat Clos des Goisses:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Some oxidized apples, yellow fruits, minerals. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, lovely fruit and balance, refreshing, long. 92

Four from Pinson

 2011 Domaine Pinson Chablis:

Pale lemon yellow. Some minerals and apples. Fresh acidity, minerals, a bit rich for regular Chablis, good length. 84

2011 Domaine Pinson Chablis 1er Cru La Forêt:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples and minerals nose, some citrus. Fresh acidity, elegant, fresh and lively, fairly fuller body, good length. 89

2011 Domaine Pinson Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu:

Pale lemon yellow. Minerals, apples and lemons nose. Fresh acidity,  palate, fresh and quite focused, good length. 89

2008 Domaine Pinson Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos:

Pale golden. Apples, some minerals, some smoke and butter. Freshish acidity, fairly lively, a bit honeyed and waxy, good length. 89

99 Leroy Meursault Perrieres, 98 Mugnier Musigny, 05 Trapet Chambertin and more

 
1999 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières:

Soaked cork which seems to be an issue with both domaine and negoc Leroy bottles from my experience. Towards golden, nuts, butter, minerals, ripe lemons, touch of bacon fat, ever so slightly smoky, complex and layered. Fresh acidity, refreshing and playful with nutmeg, touch of coffee and pralines. Almost like an old Champagne on aromas. Lemons and an intense yet refined minerality, almost smoky towards the finish. Massive length. It tightens up with air, getting more citrusy, superb minerality. 95

2009 Domaine Ponsot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes:

Bright ruby. Started out a bit edgy and oaky, but after more than an hour in decanter, spicy, scented and red berries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and elegant, slightly sweet fruit, ripe, refreshing finish. 92

2004 Lucien Le Moine Echezeaux:

Pale ruby. Some asparagus over somewhat unripe strawberries, floral notes and oak that gives in fairly quickly and renders it fruitier. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner but fresh body, a little bit sweet (14%) long vanilla finish. 91

2005 Domaine Trapet Chambertin:

Ruby. Scented, spicy, fruity, layered, complex, floral, layered and seductive. Red berries, absolutely gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, ever so slightly oaky at this stage, but a very pure, refined and long. 95

1998 Mugnier Musigny:

Garnet. Scented, floral, some red berries, quite intense, some prunes and leather notes, sos bois. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit and body, refreshing and playful, maturing nicely and for me quite perfect now, still youthful fruit but also mature notes. long. 96

01 Sperss and Bricco Delle Viole

2001 Gaja Sperss:

Garnet. Anise, tar, rich and intense nose. Leather and tobacco, ripe morellos. Fresh acidity, high of ripe tannins. Full bodied for (mostly) Nebbiolo, rich and a bit sweet, fruity, tannic backbone, long and very anise finish. 93

2001 Vajra Barolo Bricco Delle Viole:

Ruby, garnet rim. Liquorice, tar, ever so slightly floral and ripe plums. Fresh and high acidity, ripe tannins, lively and fresh with air, needed and hour to come around. Fruity but also elegant and balanced for Barolo, drops quickly in the finish to return with a fuller aftertaste, long. 92

88 Trotanoy

1988 Château Trotanoy:

Ruby, garnet rim. A bit tight first but opening up quicker than last bottle a few months back. Blueberries, leather, some prunes and a scented and floral nose with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body that became more rounded and elegant after about an hour, but always retain the slight austerity of the vintage. Long. 92

08 Diane de Belgrave

2008 Diane de Belgrave:

(2nd Ch Belgrave) Ruby. Fruity cassis and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and fairly lively, leanish, good length. 85

98 Emmanuel Rouget Echézeaux, 86 Mouton, 66 Cos and more

 2011 Egon Müller Scharzhofberg:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lime, minerals, lean and focused. Fresh acidity, fruity and balanced, ever so slightly bitter finish. 87

2010 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck Riesling GG:

Pale lemon yellow. Ripe yellow apples and a sweet floral scent reminiscent of lilies. Subdued minerals beneath, rich. Fresh acidity, ripe and full bodied, touch of alcohol on top even at 13%, a bit on the ripe side, lacks refinement, more of a locomotive. 90

1998 Emmanuel Rouget Echézeaux:

Bright ruby. Red berries, fruity, touch of minerals, leather and mint. Ads with air. Scented and layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a nerve going through the quite fruity body. More texture than a 98 Corton a week ago, has more to offer. Very long. 94-95

1998 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste:

Ruby, garnet rim. Cassis, leather, liquorice, fruity and quite intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, refreshing palate, long finish. Maybe slightly lean but very refreshing and classic. 92

1986 Château Latour a Pomerol:

Neck fill, cork smouldered into pieces. Ruby, brick rim. Mature, plums, figs, leather, touch of mint. The most mature 86 I've had at this level. Fresh acidity, tannins ripe and soon gone, rounded body, elegant but enjoy it soon. Long and ever so slightly drying. 90

1986 Vieux Château Certan:

Fill 5 mm below cork. Blueberries, plums, scented, violets, very elegant and complex. Lovely floral and layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, superb freshness, elegant, refined, long finish. 93

1986 Château Mouton Rothschild:

Bottom neck fill. Soaked cork, Decanted for a few hours hours, then back in the bottle, transported to the tasting and decanted again before tasting again. Seems t have been handled too much, but may also have had a difficult life. Ruby. Some floral notes, elegant, cassis, scented, layered and complex nose. Some exoticness beneath, touch of violets and jasmine. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety and rich texture, refreshing and lively, massive next to the others, fruity and very long even so. 96

1966 Château Cos d'Estournel:

Excellent cork, fill top shoulder. Ruby with brick rim. Scented, liquorice, cedar, leather, plums and figs, quite intense. Ads with air. Lively and fresh acidity, playful and very elegant, tannins soon polished off, refreshing and again lively, long. Different kind of juice. 94

03 Montezemolo Enrico VI and 10 Gravette de Certan

2003 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI:

Deep ruby, garnet rim. Rich and intense liquorice, some plums, mature for it's ten years. Fairly fresh acidity, massive and ripe tannins, not quite the fruit for the structure, this will either dry up completely or evolve over the next fourty years. Big. 90

2010 La Gravette de Certan:

(2nd VCC) Deep ruby. Decanted for two hours. Blueberries, slightly floral, fruity and quite intense nose, scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich and a bit sweet, liquorice, good length. 89

Four from Pomerol

2006 Château de Valois:

Deep ruby. Some blueberries and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit rustic first, ads fruit with air but never refined. 83

2007 Château Lafleur de Roy:

Ruby. Some blueberries, a touch floral nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean and fairly easygoing, some fruit. 84

2001 Château Lafleur de Roy:

Ruby. Some plums and leather nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mature and drink now, easygoing. 82

2001 Château de Sales:

Ruby. Blueberries and plums nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity if on the lean side with air, fairly good length. 85

Louis Latour flight

2010 Maison Louis Latour Bourgogne Chardonnay:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples and some yellow fruits, touch of minerals on the nose. Fresh acidity, rounded palate, fruity, slightly creamy texture, good length. 84

2009 Maison Louis Latour Saint Aubin:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, minerals, some citrus and ever so slightly floral nose. Fresh acidity, rounded, rich, little bit fat and could be fresher. 85

2010 Maison Louis Latour Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru:

Pale straw yellow. Apples, minerals, citrus, lemons and a touch of butter on the nose. Fresh acidity, fruity, mineraly backbone, fresh, a little bit oaky and smoky in the aftertaste, slightly warm finish. 88

2010 Maison Louis Latour Bourgogne Pinot Noir:

Pale ruby. Red berries, ever so slightly spicy, and a touch vegetal nose. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, a bit hollow but quite elegant fruit, clean, good length. 84

2009 Maison Louis Latour Mercurey:

Pale ruby. Red berries, touch of vanilla on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner style, fruity, quite pure, slightly grippy finish, good length. Refreshing. 86

2011 Domaine Louis Latour Aloxe-Corton Domaine Latour:

Bright ruby, pinkish hue. Fruity, red berries, slightly mineraly, some oak behind. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fuller body, oak is a bit up front on the palate, needs a few years in the cellar. 87

2008 Maison Louis Latour Pommard:

Bright ruby, garnet rim. Red berries, some leafy and slightly earthy notes, slightly scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and fruity, mineraly finish, drinking beautifully now, refreshing Pommard. Quite long. 88

2005 Domaine Louis Latour Corton Grancey Grand Cru:

Bright ruby, garnet rim. Red berries, some minerals, touch of sos bois and scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, fresh and quite lively, slightly oaky finish, fresh and long. 91

2002 Domaine Louis Latour Corton Grancey Grand Cru:

Bright ruby, garnet rim. Scented, red berries, ever so slightly floral nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, more going on on the palate, long if a bit lean. 90

1998 Domaine Louis Latour Corton Grancey Grand Cru:

Ruby, garnet rim. Chocolate, coffee, prunes, sos bois, scented and a deeper feel to it. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, a little bit oaky texture, more or less at peak, drink over the next two years or so, long. 90

2011 Château Certan de May:

Deepish ruby. Seductive, scented, some lilies, blueberries, layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refined, somewhat biting still, elegant, layered, long. 93

Evening at Gruaud Larose

Upon arrival we entered into the vat rooms for a vertikal of the second label Serget de Gruaud Larose before some hors d'oeuvres and some excellent oysters. We also had a nice Champagne to go with the oysters but I have forgotten the house.


2010 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Deep ruby. Scented, berries, elegant and fruity nose.  Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, lively, elegant and quite long. 88

2008 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Ruby. Fruity, elegant and quite layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit lean but quite elegant. 87

2006 Sarget de gruaud Larose:
Ruby, garnet rim. Fruity and elegant nose, starting figs. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing, lovely finish. 86

2004 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Ruby with garnet rim. Scented, starting prunes, liquorice and cassis nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and lively, quite elegant, good length. 86

2000 Sarget de Gruaud Larose:
Ruby with garnet rim. Scented. Elegant fruit, some figs, cassis and leather. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and fruity body, good length. 88

After this vertical we entered the château itself and some excellent magnums and double magnums with some considerable age greeted us.

2000 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Ruby, scented, vanilla, leather, complex and layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and lovely fruit, superb freshness to it, mouthwatering, drinking lovely even now but give it another ten years plus in the cellar for more mature notes. 95

1995 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Ruby with garnet rim. Scented and almost more youthful than the 2000 on the nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety and refreshing palate, superb texture, mouthwatering and long. 95

1988 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Double magnum) Ruby with garnet rim. Prunes, cassis, intense and layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, elegant and lively, a lovely '88, long. 93

1975 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Ruby with brick rim. Leather, prunes, figs, scented and mature nose. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant if leaner style, refreshing, long finish. 92

1953 Château Gruaud Larose:
(Magnum) Bright ruby, garnet rim. Prunes, figs, liquorice, roses and a touch of VA that blew away quickly. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant and lively, refreshing, elegant and long. Lovely wine. 92

Château Palmer vertical tasting 1959-2004

A bit soaked corks for the age of the wines compared to other estates and bottles that I regularly open is a bit of a worry. All bottles have been sourced from different cellars and have lived different lives. 

2004 Château Palmer:

Ruby. Scented, blueberries, cassis, a touch of vanilla nose, young and fresh. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leather and a bit smoky style, slightly rough oak at this stage, good length. 89

1998 Château Palmer:

Ruby. Scented, floral, fruity, elegant and refined nose. Complex and layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity, elegant body, textured backbone, long. 91

1996 Château Palmer:

Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, minerals, cassis, blueberries, layered and complex nose, refined, some cedar. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and quite structured backbone, long. 93+

1995 Château Palmer:

Bright ruby. Fruity, floral, cassis and blueberries. Scented and layered. Ads with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and elegant, lively, long. Some felt quite strongly that this bottle was corked but even after six hours in the glass, there was no trace of any cork taint, and even the most bombastic tasters went silence. 94

1990 Château Palmer:

Bright ruby. Scented, fruity, layered, nuanced and elegant, refined nose. Mint and spicy and touch of Christmas spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely fruit and balance, richer and somewhat exotic, refined and very long. 96

1989 Château Palmer:

Bright ruby, garnet rim. Leather, cedar, floral, very subdued and elegant nose, layered and a bit light on it's feet, gorgeous nose. Slightly heavier with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and leaner body, still quite intense, leather, tobacco and still a slight tannic grip in the finish. Long. 94+

1988 Château Palmer:

Lower neck fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Some floral notes over figs, anise, plums and blueberries. Slightly herbal and scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, playful and elegant, mouthwatering, long, but drops off suddenly.  91+

1986 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, very thin brick rim. Deeper nose, some plums, cherries, scented and intense nose. Layered and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively, quite playful and refreshing, towards mouthwatering, very long. But looses something with air. Becomes shorter. 95

1985 Château Palmer:

Bottom neck fill. Bright ruby, thin brick rim. Intense and scented nose, floral and layered, cassis and leather, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively, lovely fruit and texture, very elegant but a little bit short. 93

1983 Château Palmer: 

Lower neck fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Scented, cherries, touch of figs and fruit stones. Minty touch. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lively and mouthwatering, slightly dry palate, long. 92

1982 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Ruby, garnet rim. Scented, fruity, floral, nuanced and layered.   Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and very elegant, lively and lovely balance, long. 94

1981 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Garnet, thin brick rim. Some leather, lean nose. Fresh fruit, slightly dry, easy going but refreshing. 83

1979 Château Palmer:

Very top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Mature nose of plums, anise, leather and tobacco. Slightly floral with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and plummy even if leaner body, dying off in the finish. 87

1976 Château Palmer:

Berry Bros & Rudd label, estate bottled, dark green BBR foil. Cork confirms label. Bottom neck fill. Bright garnet, brick rim. Scented and floral, lean and very mature nose. A touch of VA that blows off. Sweet and sour. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean and drying, somewhat fruitier with air. 85

1967 Château Palmer:

Top shoulder fill. Garnet, brick rim, slightly cloudy. Cherries, liquorice and sweet and sour. Fresh acidity, few tannins, a bit lean and dry, lacks fruit. 82

1966 Château Palmer:

Berry Bros & Rudd bottled, darker red foil, lower neck fill. Cork states Berry Bros Rudd LTD London. Bright garnet, brick rim. Beautiful floral, cherries and red berries nose. Scented, layered and nuanced. Gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively, very elegant, quite refined, playful, slightly drying finish, but very refreshing and more so with air. 93

1961 Château Palmer:

Berry Bros & Rudd bottled, golden foil, mid-shoulder fill. Cork reads Berry Bros Rudd LTD London Château Palmer Margaux 1961. Slightly cloudy garnet with almost orange rim. Scented, slightly floral, red berries and cherries, figs, leather and prunes, dried tobacco. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruity and lively but drying finish, quite full bodied first, lean finish. Ads with air, getting fuller and longer. 92

1959 Château Palmer:

L'Acheteur negociant bottling.  Top shoulder fill. Cork stated nothing. Bright garnet, brick rim. Scented, liquorice, floral and a touch of mint on the nose. Red berries. Fresh acidity, drying palate, dusty and unpleasant, dry finish. Again it ads with air, getting more body. 86

Bonneau du Martray winemakers dinner at Bagatelle

It's not every day that a producer with such a reputation on white wines from Burgundy visits Norway, so I even cancelled a Bordeaux-vertical tasting to attend. And since some states that there is a premature oxidation issue with the wines from Bonneau du Martray, I was even more interested in going. Personally I have never felt this producer is one of the 'bad guys' of premox, I have only had some issues with a few bottles of 2002. A 1993, 1987, 2002 and 2005 this last few months have all been excellent.

I was offcourse also very curious about the new Bagatelle with some excellent new staff and a new direction. Some fine tuning (as a bit slow refill of water) and it will all be perfect. For the first time ever in a restaurant, my white tea at the end of the meal had been brewed at a correct temperature. They normally brew white and green tea in too hot water. There was a menu of 18 smaller or larger tastes rather than courses. First was simply calles Oysters-Apple and was an excellent oyster with a sweet freshness from a bit of apples, very delicate and nuanced. I will not go into details on all eighteen windows of taste as I write first and foremost on wine.

Third taste was Raw shrimp-Tomato and the shrimps from Iceland was extremely delicate and tender in flavour and texture and truly elegant and therefore slightly over run by the again very subtle tomato flavours. An elegant small dish even if I would have preffered it even more with the shrimps by itself. But I'm also a huge fan of shellfish with no messing about. At this stage we drank a glass of magic. 2010 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne with it's pale golden colour and elegant and superbly nuanced nose. Refined and layered, pure minerality, gorgeous nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, you need to look carefully not to miss any of the remarkable number of details in this superb wine, it's poetic. Very long indeed. 96

The King Crab-Herbs was another delicious taste that I could easilly hav as a meal in itself, with a slight crunch and a more expressive flavour to it. Perfect with the 2009 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, again pale golden colour (it was a bit darker lighting than usual, so could be the light) and one notice the vintage difference right away. Even if mostly apples and minerals on the nose, it's richer and fruitier on the nose. Fresh acidity, elegant if riper and fatter, long. 92

We also had a small sandwich that I can't quite find out which one of the tastes in the menue it was, but that was probably the best sandwich I've tasted. The Scallops-Broccoli was a bit too much broccoli for the scallops to handle. The more exclusive and delicate scallops was a bit overwhelmed. Turning the dish upside down on the other hand made the scallops taste more.Somewhere along here we had 2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, pale lemon yellow, refreshing lemon cest and minerals nose, tight after the 09 and even if gorgeously refreshing, it lacks a bit besides the 2010. Fresh acidity, nuanced if a bit on stilts, apples, minerals and lemon finish. 94

There was a fantastic fish that I think is called Lemon Sole in English with a soft and gentle taste, very elegant and subtle, and my first. 2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, pale golden, minerals, apples, layered and a touch of nuts. Fresh acidity, richer fruit and slightly yellow fruity, lively and some butter. Have evolved since my last bottle about two years back, but less than expected. 92 Then came an excellent pork knuckle with a superb bearnaise sauce. That sauce was pure magic and a touch sweeter than most bearnaise sauces, and maybe a touch more spices in it as well. 1991 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, towards golden, fairly rich and nutty, leaner and sharper nose. Fresh acidity, slightly bitter and not quite together. Richer palate but also a bit hollow, good length. If I had any left this would be for the summer. 88

We had a few dishes that were on the smoky side for me, and a lot it seemed of Danish cheese, and personally I would have wished for something fresher at the end of the meal. The last white was 1987 Bonneau du Martray-Corton Charlemagne, pale golden, yellow plums and apples with a touch of oxidation (off the apples). Some nuts and minerals. Fresh acidity, elegant if a bit lean, some fruit stones comming that I can't recall from earlier bottles, leaner than last bottle but holding up remarkably well. 89

Last wine was the 1998 Bonneau du Martray Corton, bright red with garnet rim. Touch of maturing Pomerol nose at first with blueberries, plums and figs, but more red berries and scented with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body and slightly Corton rusticity with some vanilla showing up. Slightly herbal finish. 88 The meal was excellent on the whole, and so was the wine. This was a set menue and was not designed for the wines and that also made it two tastings side by side, and to be honest. For me it worked perfectly. It made it maybe even easier to focus on the nuances and flavours of the food and on the wines side by side. Looking forward to next visit to Bagatelle, and the next glass of Bonneau du Martray as well.