Tim Atkin
MW and Guy Woodward have just been out on http://m.harpers.co.uk/Article/356219
stating that Primeur in Bordeaux is a “sham” and is no longer a good business
to those investing in the wines. I’m not going into that at this stage; I’m
just saying that you should buy Bordeaux 2013 Primeur.
What you
should buy, not for investing, but to get them, and to enjoy them, is the very
limited quantities made of the dry- and the sweet whites. Both are mostly
magnificent in this vintage, and both are, except for some at the very top, still
in need of the cash flow the red wines gets so much more easily. The
brightness, purity and freshness of the dry 2013’s are thrilling, some of the
best even after a string of great vintages. They show a less tropical note and
more apples and flinty minerality than any vintage I have tasted so far during primeur,
and delicacy that you often pay (much) more for in Burgundy. And you do not
find these wines readily after release in many cases. So buy them, drink them
and enjoy them.
The sweet
ones from Sauternes and Barsac are also in this delicate and very fresh
mold. Detailed, nuanced, refreshing, superb and with playful acidity in perfect
harmony with the sweetness. Some of these will be up there with the greatest
made from the estate in a very delicate way, and some have truly long
aftertaste. Unfortunately for the region, people don’t pop the cork. People seem to have all kind of strange ideas
why not to drink them, even if most absolutely love them when they are in the
glass. These wines have never been made better. They are magic while young,
they are magic midterm, and they get magic with age. There’s nothing to lose.
Yes, you should buy some 2013 Primeur!
I don't agree that most of the Sauternes are "thrilling". A few are; most aren't. And how can you tell people to buy before the prices have been released? And, based on previous vintages, do you think prices will go up, rewarding people who hand over their money two years before the wines are shipped? That's not consumer journalism as I know it! But thanks for joining the debate.
ReplyDeleteI just read the harpers post linked above and found it very superficial and wanted to say that there are some exciting wines out there at great prices. I found several really good Sauternes at the lover levels as well. They may not apreciate in value, but in most markets they are not that easily found either and just because one can easily find many of them in London doesn't mean that they are easy to get everywhere else. In my market, 90% or more of Sauternes is never seen, some deserve it for sure, others doesn't. So it's not a question of only increasing in value, but also a question of getting it.
ReplyDelete