Gorgeous 2010 Molitor Bernkasteler Lay Auslese***

2010 Markus Molitor Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese***
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, lime and minerals on the nose, so pure and fresh. Lively and high acidity, playing along the fruit like Lang Lang on Chopin's Études op: 25 No. 2 in F Minor. Everything just seems so light, transparent, refreshing and seemlesly well put together, even if your teeth will run for their bare life if you drink this wine every day. Elegant, very long, and very playful. 95

Two pure and transparent Burgundies from Domaine Chassornay

2010 Domaine Chassornay Volnay 1er Cru Les Lurets:
Pale pink. Scented strawberries and roses. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, some vanilla, pure and transparent style. Long. 90

2010 Domaine Chassornay Pommard 1er Cru Pezzerolles:
Pale pink. Somewhat more intense nose of strawberries, vanilla and scented. Fresh acidity, some Christmas spices and ripe strawberries, long and pure. 90+

Two inexpensive Pomerol's

2007 Château La Croix du Casse:

Deep ruby. Vanilla, slightly dry wood and rustic behind blueberries, leather and black tea. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins. Over- oaked but most got rounded off after twenty minutes decanting. Has potential, and this is the only vintage I've tasted from this property. Good length. 87

2006 Château Clos Bel Air:

Deep ruby. Blueberries with vanilla and raspberries. Cinamon. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and red berries palate. Should have an hour in decanter. Good length. 88

Two from Roddolo

2006 Roddolo Lange Rosso Bricco Appiani:
Deep ruby, cassis, leather and cigars. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and a bit lean mid palate, typical of Cabernet Sauvignon. Good length. 86

2006 Roddolo Barolo Ravera:
Bright ruby. Licorice, cherry stones, fine leather, perfumed, so classic. Pure, intense, high acidity, high of ripe tannins. Old school, Barolo in such a pure way. Long. 94

The Pope and I

'The Nittardi Estate, on the boundary between the provinces of Siena and Florence, was originally a defensive tower, known as early as the 12th century by the name of “Nectar Dei”. In the 16th century the vast property surrounded by oak woods amid the hills of San Donato, Castellina in Chianti and Panzano, belonged to Michelangelo who in 1549 wrote to his nephew Lionardo: “I’d prefer two casks of wine rather than eight shirts,” and on that occasion sent the Nittardi wine to Rome as a “genuine gift to the Pope “.' From the producers website

The rumours has it that the Pope still gets six bottles a year.

2011 Nittardi Ad Astra:
Deep ruby, layered, morellos, licorice and plums. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing palate, mouthwatering. Lovely texture and structure, good length. 90

2009 Nittardi Nectar Dei:

Deep ruby. Cherries, plums, licorice and redcurrants. Figs and wood. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body, elegant, long finish. Needs air to open, lovely length. 91

2009 Nittardi Chianti Classico Riserva:

Deep ruby. Fruity nose for Chianti, quite intense, ripe cherries and blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, quite mouthwatering, lovely balance, good length. 90

09 Poliziano Vino Nobile

2009 Poliziano Vino Nobile de Montepulciano:

Deep ruby. Some coffee, cherries, blackberries and licorice. Rich nose. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, soft and mellow, easy going. Good length. 85

Two from Elio Altare

2011 Elio Altare Barbera d'Alba:

Deep ruby, purple rim. More nuanced Barbera, layered, blackberries, licorice and some anise. Fresh acidity, soft tannins, elegant and refreshing palate, nuanced and fine length. 89

2008 Elio Altare Barolo la Morra:

Deep ruby, garnet rim. Flirting tar and roses nose. Licorice behind and scented, violets. Fresh acidity, fairly high but not that easy to detect, high of soft tannins, elegant, layered, transparent, long. 93

Two from Burlotto and one Moccagata

2011 Burlotto Barbera d'Alba:

Towards opaque. Blackberries, dark fruits, somewhat scented and licorice. Fresh acidity, few and ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, a bit short. 87

2011 Burlotto Langhe Freisa:

Deep ruby. Smoked ham, redcurrants and some spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, focused and refreshing, elegant red berries, fine and layered, good length. 89

2011 Moccagatta Barbera d'Alba:

Deep ruby/purple. Plums, blackberries, licorice and floral notes behind. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, elegant texture, almost creamy, long finish. 88

09 Bibi Graetz Testamatta and It's a Game

 2010 Bibi Graetz It's a Game:

Deep ruby. Intense, cherries, closed nose. Fresh acidity, ripe and high tannins. A bit hollow and not that long, but balanced. 86

2009 Bibi Graetz Testamatta:

Deep ruby. Layered and complex nose, scented, floral, cherries, blue and blackberries. Lovely nose. Elegant acidity, ripe tannins, layered and refreshing, long. 91

3 times Vin Santo

2005 Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Vin Santo del Chianti Classico:
Amber brown. VA nose overshadowing nuts and raisins. Freshish acidity and maderized dried fruits. Browning apples and bananas. 84

2006 Cantagallo Millarium Vin Santo del Chianti Montalbano:
Amber with deep golden rim. Starting out with VA notes but blew off to more raisiny, nutty and caramelized notes. Dried apricots and honey. Freshish acidity, rounded, sweet and mellow. A bit short. 86

2004 I Veroni Vin Santo del Chianti Ruffina:
(only about 800 bottles made) Amber. Figs, raisins, almonds and dried fruits. Fresh acidity, soft, sweet and rounded texture, good length. 89

2008 Brane- Cantenac

2008 Château Brane-Cantenac:
Deep ruby. Flora notes behind elegant cassis, blueberries, vanilla and a faint hint of herbs. Quite intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture and structure. Quite elegant and mouthwatering and a very elegant 08. Lovely effort and a good length. Goes to show how much more on really gets from a wine when one sits down than from my last tasting of it at the IMW Annual Claret Tasting just a few weeks back. 93

2009 Brane- Cantenac

2009 Château Brane- Cantenac:
Deep ruby. Intense and scented nose, floral, some mint. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit. Needs time to open and show, so decant it for a few hours. Layered and complex, superb length. Somewhat sweet fruity feel. 92

2010 Brane-Cantenac

2010 Château Brane- Cantenac;
Deep ruby, Fresh nose, fruity and floral, cassis, and up front now. Fresh acidity, and a lively feel, ripe tannin. The somewhat lean and rustic body and texture I found during primeur that was honed away in June last year, have now become layered, good length. 93+

2011 Brane- Cantenac

2011 Château Brane- Cantenac:
(Barrel sample sent to me from the château) Deep ruby. Cassis, floral, somewhat scented, vanilla, quite layered and almost Pessac's smoky minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture and long finish. 91

06 Brane- Cantenac

2006 Château Brane- Cantenac:
Deep ruby. Cassis, starting leather and somewhat scented. With hours of air, even floral. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, just shaking of the rawness that is typical of so many 06's. Ever so slightly lean palate, but that makes it more elegant. Needs 10 years in my book, long. 90+

07 Pape Clément

2007 Château Pape Clément:
Deep ruby, almost opaque. Massive cassis and vanilla with some Pessac minerals on the nose. Rich and full bodied, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced but oaky finish. A massive 07. Long. 91

2007 Sociando-Mallet

2007 Château Sociando-Mallet:
Deep ruby. Floral notes, cassis and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, this bottle seems fruitier than last (decanted for four hours, not that it needed it, it just happened) bottle and less herbal, so typical of the vintage. Long. 88

07 Fonbadet

2007 Château Fonbadet:
Ruby. Slightly floral and cassis nose with some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, oak still a bit up front which is a bit surprising for this seemingly classical (and inexpensive) Pauillac. Nice fruit behind, so give it another two years in the cellar. 88

2006 Château Canon

2006 Château Canon:
Deep ruby. Dark fruits, vanilla, rich and intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, intense and quite powerful body and fruit, but never feels extracted. On the sweet side maybe. Another 06 that seems to have shed the youthful rawness now. 92

Cheap and cheerful white Pessac!

2010 Château Brown blanc:
Pale golden. Fresh lemon and grapefruit nose with some vanilla and minerals. Fresh acidity, lively and elegant and nice length. I first visited Château Brown two years ago after tasting the wines primeur. This is typical white Pessac in a fresh style for a very competitive price. 89

01 Musar

2001 Chateau Musar:
Pale ruby, garnet rim. Licorice, cherries, figs, layered and scented. Some VA. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body, quite fruit driven, good length. 89

1988 Château Figeac

1988 Château Figeac:
Bright ruby, garnet rim. Figs, cherries, blueberries and leather nose. Layered and nuanced. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, savory and refreshing. Lovely if a bit short. 91

08 Malescot St Exupery

2008 Château Malescot St Exupery:
Deep ruby. Rich and intense cassis, vanilla, layered and complex nose. Tight now. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rounded and elegant texture and structure, long. 91

07 Angerville Champans

2007 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans:
Pale ruby. Raspberries and redcurrants, minerals and a touch of spices and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit hard and ungainly fruit, good length. 87

06 Lafaurie-Peyraguey

2006 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey:
Golden. Rich botrytis, honey, apricots, yellow plums and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, rich but balanced palate, superb length. 93

Two tiny Right Bank wines made by Ausone winemaker

 2010 Clos des Baies:
Deep ruby. Fruity, blueberries, vanilla, scented and dark berries. Layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture and balance. Long and fruit driven finish. Playful. Only 1800 bottles made by Ausone winemaker close to Tertre Roteboeuf. 80% Merlot and 20 Cabernet Franc. 91

 2010 Clos Peyrol: 
Ruby, elegant nose, layered of blueberries, black tea and dark fruits. Refined feel and flirting nose, not too intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mouthwatering, savory and again elegant. Long. 1322 bottles made from a tiny plot next to Vieux Château Certan. 100% Merlot. Made by Ausone wine maker. 92

Gorgeous 07 Domaine de Chevalier blanc

2007 Domaine de Chevalier blanc:
Pale lemon yellow. Fresh grapefruit and lemon nose with subdued minerals and some vanilla. Orange blossoms, layered and nuanced. Fresh acidity, mouthwatering and still very youthful. Very long and intense, yet transparent. Superb length. 95

Flabby 03 Chevalier-Montrachet

2003 Bouchard Père & Fils Chevalier- Montrachet:
Pale golden. Rich and intense nose of apples, minerals and barrel notes. Towards flabby acidity, nuts and butter finish where the alcohol comes through. Good length. 86

2010 and 1990 Clos Foutet, side by side.

2010 Clos Fourtet:
Deep ruby. Cassis, blueberries, vanilla and minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, refreshing, tight, quite tannic actually, chocolate, coffee beans and mocha. Needs time indeed. 94

1990 Clos Fourtet:
Ruby, garnet rim. Fantastic nose, minerals, elegant blueberries, scented, violets and very pure feel to it. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, minerals on the palate as well, starting cherry-stone, fine leather and anise. Long. 93+

Margaux doesn't have to be pricey

2010 Château Larruau:
I had never heard of this estate, situated in Margaux, but insiders in Bordeaux tells me that this wine is all consumed by the locals. Deep ruby. Vanilla, cassis and a touch of violets. Fresh acidity, not too lively, ripe tannins, ripe feel, elegant, balanced and easy going. Good length. 84. Not bad for a around €8 Margaux, if you can find it.

08 DRC GE

2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Échézeaux:
Bright garnet. Rich nose, plums and somewhat herbal and nothing between. Some spices with more air, and strawberry jam eventually turns up. Not as fresh on the nose as the 07 a month back. Fresh acidity, few and ripe tannins, a bit hollow and lacks some nuances and refinement, even so a very fine wine, but never thrilled. 90

4 older Bordeaux reds

1978 Château Carbonnieux rouge:

In the neck fill. Bright ruby with broad brick rim. Leather, figs, licorice and minerals. Almost minty and fully mature. Fresh acidity, ripe and few tannins, surprisingly lively and full bodied for the vintage and has the typical playfullness of the vintage. Leaner and acidity sharper finish, very cherry stone.  Must be a perfect bottle. 89

1970 Château Beychevelle:

Either Schröder & Schyler bottling or Danish. Anyway properly oxidized even with in neck fill. Château bottlings tasted three times of the 70 has always been fine, if lean an somewhat uninspired. 

1978 Château Beau- Séjour Bécot:

Top shoulder fill. Ruby with brick rim and lots of sediments. Leather, licorice and a touch og figs and blueberries. Tender, soft and caressing like Katie Melua's 'No Fear of Heights'. Fresh acidity, few and soft tannins, delicate and fruity, good length. 86

1988 Château Camensac:

Deep ruby, thin garnet rim. Cassis, licorice, leather and a touch og pencil shave. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, evolved and quite lovely now, drink soon while fruit backs the structure. A bit short. 87+

Four excellent white Burgundies

2006 Ramonet Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet:

Towards lemon yellow. Lemons, minerals, vanilla and some grapefruits. Fresh acidity, tight and massively mineral, slightly smoky and way more intense than the last bottle. Very long and again massively mineraly finish with one drop of lime. 95

2007 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot:

Pale lemon yellow. Lime, minerals, apples, vanilla and some lemons. Fresh acidity, elegant and almost creamy texture, but also fairly lean and focused typical of the vintage. Long. 91

2008 Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos:

Pale lemon yellow. Minerals, apples and sweet lemons. Fresh acidity, rounded and rich Chablis, refreshing and quite mouthwatering. Lime, touch of sweet yellow fruits to round it off. Long. 92

2006 Lucien le Moine Puligny- Montrachet 1er Cru Les Enseignères:

Lemon yellow. Rich, some oak but it has really polished off since the last bottle, and intense minerals. Meursault like. Popcorn and butter with a touch of citrus. Fresh acidity, quite full bodied. Slightly sweet mid palate, massively mineraly finish. Long. 93

23 Bordeaux' from 2011 tasted

2011 Château La Pointe:
Deep ruby. Perfumed, floral, elegant fruit, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety texture, elegant structure, long. 89

2011 Duo
(2nd Ch. La Conseillante) Ruby. Blueberries, vanilla, floral, very elegant nose, fresh and easy. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing palate, velvet texture, long. 89

2011 Château La Conseillante:
Deep ruby. Floral, blueberries, very elegant and layered nose, raspberries and some sweet notes. Fresh acidity, lively, ripe tannins, elegant texture, long. 93+

2011 Château Villemaurine:
Opaque, purple rim. Spicy, violets, blueberries, feels layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, refreshing even if rich and fruity, very long. 91

2011 Domaine de Cambes:
Deep ruby. Fruity, minerals, violets, scented and blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe and mellow tannins, elegant body, long and savory finish. 91

2011 Roc de Cambes:
Deep ruby. Black- and blueberries, elegant and rich nose, vanilla and some coffee, chocolate. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, fruity and long. 92

2011 Château Tertre Roteboeuf:
Deep ruby. Coffee, blueberries, layerd nose of violets, minerals and dark fruits. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mouthwatering, superb fruit, feels pure, very long. 94

2011 Château Labegorce Margaux 
(New name on on the newly joint Labégorce and Labégorce Zédé estates) Deep ruby, lovely nose. Floral, vanilla, fine fruit, coffee. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, nice body and texture, a bit hollow without being to lean. 87

2011 Château Marquis d'Alesme:
Deep ruby. Blueberries, cassis and vanilla, Deep feel to it, layered and refined nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, good length. Heading somewhere but not there just yet. 90

2011 Château Malescot St. Exupery:
Deep ruby, pink rim. Floral, nuanced and layered. Cassis, blueberries, vanilla and spices. Lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit raw at the moment, , very long. 93

2011 Alter Ego:
(2nd Ch. Palmer) Deep ruby. Elegant nose, floral, cassis, perfumed, violets and vanilla. Flirting. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, refreshing and great balance. The second only vintage of Alter Ego to contain Petit Verdot (the other vintage was 2006). One of the best Alter Ego's made? 90

2011 Château Palmer:
Deep ruby. Floral, cassis, violets, vanilla, layered and complex nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing and mouthwatering, savory. Very long. 93+

2011 Château Kirwan:
Deep ruby. Floral, cassis, blueberries, spices, intense yet elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant palate, lovely structure, long finish. 91

2011 Château Pontet-Canet:
Deep ruby. Cassis, cherries, herbs, layered and complex. Scented with more air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body but quite intense flavours, slightly austere now but also mouthwatering. Long. 92+

2011 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Deep ruby. Spicy, exotic, blueberries and cassis. Floral, layered and complex. Seductive. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, quite intense palate. Refreshing and a touch of herbs to make the fruitiness more layered, more typical of Mouton than the 2010 have been so far. Very long. 94+

2011 Château Tronquoy-Lalande:
Deep ruby. Fresh cassis and some herbs, tight and spicy, maybe floral behind. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit austere and rustic now. 86+

2011 Dame de Montrose
(2nd Ch. Montrose) Deep ruby. Cassis, scented, floral and licorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refreshing palate, savory and good length. 88

2011 Château Montrose: 
Deep ruby. Deep fruit, vanilla, complex, layered and intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, balanced, tight and long. 93

2011 Château Langoa Barton:
Ruby. Scented, cassis, vanilla, some floral notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant palate, lovely texture, long finish. 91

2011 Château Léoville Barton:
Bright ruby. Some floral notes, scented, layered, cassis and blueberries. Fruit-driven but very elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture and structure, refreshing and long. 93

2011 Château Pibran:
Ruby. Scented, cassis, vanilla and blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good grip, refreshing and good length. 88

2011 Les Tourelles de Longueville:
(2nd Ch. Pichon Longueville) Ruby. Slightly scented, some spices behind cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing and good length. 87

2011 Château Pichon Longueville:
Deep ruby. Cassis, anise, vanilla, deep feel, restrained and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich texture without feeling over ripe. Long. 92+

12 from Moueix

2009 Château Chantalouette:
Ruby. Some bell peppers and herbs behind blueberries. Scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant if not that long. 88

2008 Château Chantalouette:

Ruby. Blueberries, scented and some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely fruit and texture, long. 88

2007 Château Chantalouette:

Ruby. Elegant, floral, scented and blueberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant but a bit short. 86

2009 L'Hospitalet de Gazin:

(2nd Ch. Gazin) Ruby. Blueberries, vanilla and leather. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, velvety texture. Elegant and good length. 89

2008 L'Hospitalet de Gazin:

(2nd Ch. Gazin) Ruby. Blueberries, vanilla and dark berries. Scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and almost creamy texture. Long. 89

2009 Château Bourgneuf:

Deep ruby. Blueberries, vanilla, scented and a touch of coffee. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich and more together now than the last bottle. Still needs cellaring. 91

2008 Château Bourgneuf:

Deep ruby. Floral over blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and refined body and texture, long. 91

2008 Château La Serre:

Ruby. Rich nose, blueberries, plums and up front. Freshvacidity, ripe tannins, more elegant palate than nose, long. 89

2009 Château Puy Blanquet:

Ruby. Scented, blueberries, elegant nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, flirting palate, elegant and long. 89+

2008 Château Puy Blanquet:

Ruby. Intense blueberries and plums, some fine tea. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, long finish. 89

2007 Château Puy Blanquet:

Ruby. Blueberries, fruity, coffee and some herbs of the vintage. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, good length. 88

2008 Château Magdelaine:

Deep ruby. Oak and vanilla, blue- and blackberries and coffee beneath. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant palate, not as rich as the nose, refreshing and long. 91

Six reds from Burgundy

2010 A.F.Gros Beaune 1er Cru Les Boucherottes:
Bright ruby. Strawberries, refreshing and pure nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit lean but elegant. 86

2007 Dominique Laurent Gevrey-Chambertin:
Bright ruby, garnet rim. Lean nose of strawberries and somewhat leafy. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lean and and a bit herbal. 85

2009 Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges Charmotte:
Pale ruby. Stable and strawberries nose. Fresh acidity, rich, ripe tannins, lacks some vitality at this stage, doesn't quite feel as its on top. Maybe a slightly off bottle? Anyway a good wine. 89

2002 Magnien Morey-St-Denis Millandes:
Pale ruby. Fruit-driven and mature nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, stone fruit finish, good length. 88

2009 Pascalet Chambolle-Musigny:
Bright ruby. Scented nose of strawberries and raspberries. Some spices. Refreshing acidity, ripe tannins, playful, elegant and long. 91

2007 Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Geirges Roncieres:
Bright ruby. Fresh and a bit herbal nose of strawberries. Slightly scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, long. 90

59 Ducru-Beaucaillou, 78 Margaux, 85 Trotanoy, 83 Laville HB and more

2011 Weingut O. Trarbacher Ungsberg Riesling:

Pale lemon yellow. Apples, orange blossoms, some minerals, yellow plums and sweet lemons. Elegant acidity, refreshing, unripe apples, slightly bitter finish, very long. 88

1959 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou:

Danish bottling. Top shoulder. Ruby, brown rim. Earthy, some floral notes, cherry stones, volatile. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, a bit tired and not optimal, good length. 85

1985 Château Trotanoy:

Bright ruby. Very tight and almost green first. After an hour, still tight but flirting, blueberries, chocolate, floral and scented with even more air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more body with air, refreshing but also somewhat stalky. One of the youngest 85's I've tasted. 93

1978 Château Margaux:

Very top shoulder. Ruby with brick rim. Chocolate, prunes, cassis, violets, minerals, leather. Pencil. Layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, richer and fuller than last bottle, and therefore it doesn't show quite the nuances. This bottle was still compact. Very long. 95 (Suposed to have come directly from the Château Margaux some years back). 

1983 Château Laville Haut-Brion:

Very top shoulder fill. Golden. Honey, marzipan, orange zest, vanilla and apricots. Fresh acidity, almonds and very marzipan, more developed than last bottle, somewhat flinty minerals beneath, lacks some of the nuances, but long. 91

1990 Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese (Bernkasteler Ring Versteigerung cuvee):

Golden. Apricots, botrytis, minerals and apples. Youthfull and pure feel for a 90. Fresh acidity, lively, elegant and balanced, long finish. Classic Mosel Auslese. 89

2003 Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese:

(Demi) Golden. Intense and botrytised nose. Apples, raisins, apricots and pineapples, up front and youthful for the vintage. Visquos, fresh acidity that manages wast amounts of sugar. Thick and sweet, but one dimensional. Good length. 84

Six from Tuscany

2008 Biondi Santi Rosso di Montalcino:
Bright ruby. Cherries, licorice, somewhat scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, soft fruit, more structure, long. Decant it before serving. 89+

2006 Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva:
(Magnum) Bright ruby. Hung meat, blueberries and licorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, nice fruit and body, good length. 87

2007 Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino:
Ruby. Cherries, vanilla and licorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very open at the moment, a bit sweet on the fruit, good length. 88

2007 OT di Olivieri Toscani:
Ruby. Spicy, dark berries and sweet fruits. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, soft and different palate, rounded, good length. 88

2008 Antinori Tignanello:
Ruby. Vanilla and blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rich, intense, a bit all over the place, oaky, good length. 89

2007 Antinori Solaia:
About three weeks back I had the 08 that I found a bit heavy on the alcohol. The 07 is far more nuanced. Ruby. Rich nose but layered, spices, cassis, scented and a touch of licorice. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, spicy and some vanilla, long. Decant it if you open it now. 92

Do you like Beaujolais?

I have my issues with Beaujolais, they are to simple, to fruity, lacks structure, and some even smells of sweaty socks. They are boring, to light, lacks complexity. As you have figured out, I'm not a fan. I don't queue up on that Nowember night to get some. But I have tasted one that I enjoyed. Lapierre's Morgon a few years back. And a few days ago, another one turned up.

2010 Foillard Morgon Côte du Py:
Pale pinkish red. Wild strawberries and a whiff of licorice nose. Fresh acidity, few and ripe tannins, elegant and rounded, good length. 87

8 Sparkling wines and one Champagne

2008 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Brut:
Pale straw yellow, small bubbles. Apples, minerals and a touch of yeast. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, seems rounder than some vintages, good length. 87

Michel Arnould Mosimann's Champagne Grand Cru Brut:
This Champagne would normally not be found in any shop as it's the house Champagne of a London Club. Pale straw yellow, small bubbles. Apples and yeast. Elegant acidity, rounded and fresh mousse. The same goes for the body and structure, some yellow fruits, good length. 89

Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc:
Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Apples, yeasty and less yellow plums than one could expect. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, more yellow fruits on the palate, rounded and somewhat fruit sweet, good length. 88

2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Brut:
Watery straw yellow, small bubbles. Sweet apples and pears and a touch of minerals on the nose. High acidity, mousse more relaxed, some sweetness on the palate, not quite together and a bit all over the place, somewhat lean. 85

2007 Gramona Imperial Gran Reserva Brut:
Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Some mango, apples and minerals. Lacks the typical rubber touch. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, rounded feel, good length. 88

2005 Gramona III Lustros Gran Reserva Brut Nature:
Pale lemon yellow, small bubles. Yellow plums, slightly floral, minerals and yeast. Fresh acidity, more powerful mousse but still on the elegant side, fresh feel, good length. 89+

Coates & Seely Blanc de Blanc:
Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Very light and pure nose, apples and some yeast. Fresh acidity, somewhat sweet palate (about 8-10 grams rs I'm told), elegant mousse and texture. Easy going. 86

Coates & Seely Rosé:
Watery golden. Fruitier and a touch of strawberries. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, again a bit sweet, light on its feet, a bit short. 85

2008 Juve y Camps Reserva da Familia:
Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Yeast, ripe yellow apples, some plums and a touch of rubber. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, overripe apply finish. 89

Four Madeira's, excellent Christmas wine

1989 D'Oliveiras Colheita Sercial:

Pale amber with golden tints. Nuts, some dried fruits, touch of caramel and minerals. Fresh acidity, rich and dry Sercial, somewhat tighter than some, good length. 88

1988 D'Oliveiras Colheita Terrantez:

Amber with golden tints. Nuts, dried apricots, raisins and minerals. Fresh and lively acidity, mouthwatering, long finish. 89

1984 D'Oliveiras Colheita Boal:

Pale amber. Dried apricots, raisins, caramel and nuts far behind. Fresh and lively acidity, elegant texture, refreshing, somewhat leaner finish, good length. 89

1973 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva:

Amber with golden rim. More refined nose, more nuances, layered of dried exotic fruits, nuts, raisins and minerals. Some butter and butter scotch. Fresh acidity, lively and elegant, mouthwatering, up front and stil subtle. Very long finish. 92

13 Champagne's tasted including 04 Cristal, 00 Winston Churchill and Krug

2007 J.L Vergnon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Confidence GC Brut Nature:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Elegant and fruity nose, apples, yeast and chalk. Pure feel. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse and body. Long and slightly fruit sweet finish. 90+

André Jacquart Expèrience Brut:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Yeast and apples, sweet plums. Fresh acidity, elegant and lively mousse, fruity and good length. 90

2004 Moutard-Diligent Brut Grande Cuvée 6 Cepages:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Apples, yellow fruits and minerals. Yeast. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, lively, a bit up front mid-palate before sleek finish. 89

2006 Moutard-Diligent Arbane Vielles Vignes:

100% Arbane! Pale straw yellow. Fruity, apples, lemon zest. Fresh acidity, elegant and tender mousse, refreshing and transparent feel to it, long. 91

2004 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Yeast and apples. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, refreshing if not that lively, good length. 88

2002 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage:

(Magnum) Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Apples and yeast, some minerals, more focus than the 04, but also more rounded. Fresh acidity, crisper mousse, lively and refreshing, youthful. 90+

Krug Grand Cuvée:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Layered and complex nose, slightly less powerful than I remember my last bottle. Fresh acidity, lively mousse, playful and elegant, very long finish. Feels more rounded and riper than before. 94

Gosset Excellence Brut:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Apples and minerals, some yellow plums. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, rounded and soft, good length. 87

1998 Gosset Celebris Extra Brut:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Fruity, apples and yeasty nose. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, lively and rounded, yellow plums finish, long. 92

1998 De Saint Gall Orpale Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Apples, lime and yeast. Somewhat subdued minerals. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, soft and rounded texture, long. 92+

2004 Duval-Leroy Brut Vintage:

Pale lemon yellow, small bubbles. Yellow apples, minerals and yeast. Transparent nose. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, tight and quite lively, long. 90+

2004 Louis Roederer Cristal:

Pale lemon yellow, tiny bubbles. Subdued yeast, apples and minerals, refined and layered. Nuanced and complex. Fresh acidity, superb mousse and texture, elegant structure, very long. 94

2000 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill:

Pale lemon yellow. Tiny bubbles. Apples, minerals and yellow plums. Almost floral. Fresh acidity, elegant mousse, rounded, ripe, yet fresh. Almost transparent finish. Long. 93

4 from Balthasar Ress

2011 Balthasar Ress Von Unserm Riesling Trocken:
Watery lemon yellow. Apples and ripe lemons nose. Fresh acidity, fruity and rounded, fine minerals, elegant and lively. 89

2011 Balthasar Ress Schloss Reicharthausen Riesling Kabinett Feinherb:
Watery lemon yellow. Apples, minerals and yellow plums. Fresh acidity, elegant and rounded, always playful. Youful. 89

2011 Balthasar Ress Rüdesheim Riesling Trocken:
Watery lemon yellow. Flinty, some sulphur up front, so decant it and apples. Fresh acidity, elegant and rounded, good length. 88

2001 Balthasar Ress Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling:
Pale lemon yellow. Starting petroleum, apples and minerals. Fresh acidity and again a rounded style. Elegant, lively and long. 90

2x 2008 Château Le Puy

2008 Château Le Puy Emilien:
Ruby. Fruity-driven and spicy, blueberries and cherries. Fresh acidity, lively, ripe tannins, a bit dry finish. 85

2008 Château Le Puy Barthélemy:
Cloudy ruby (non filtered). Blueberries, spicy and plums. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, somewhat stalky and grippy and again drying finish. 87

1976 Figeac

1976 Château Figeac:
In the neck fill. Ruby, brick rim, lots of sediments. Wow, where do I begin? Very on an off bottle at the beginning, earthy and dusty going back and forth to scented and blueberries, wood polish and leather. It rested on the last luckily. Fresh acidity, ripe and polished off tannins, fairly lean and very old school. Not a great bottle but enjoyable although many would find it to old. 85

1966 Lafon Rochet

1966 Château Lafon-Rochet:
Towards mid shoulder fill. Bad cork. Bright ruby, brick rim. Cooked plums and dirt on the nose. Lean and dry palate, very tired.Oxidizes within minutes.

First I am, second I was, Mouton never changes. Can that be said about Pavie?

'First I am, second I was, Mouton never change'. These famous words were written on the label of Mouton Rothschild when it almost fourty years ago, in 1973, was elevated into the ranks of the First Growths. It used to state 'First, I cannot be. Second, I do not deign to be. Mouton I am'. For the first time since then, there has now been a new elevation. Not in Médoc, but in Saint-Emilion. Angelus and Pavie joined the ranks just a few months back. And that saying from Mouton, that Mouton never change, made me think. For me, one can taste the same style all the way back to the oldest I've tasted, the 1921. After a resent tasting of the 71 Pavie, and now the 79 Pavie it seems that yes, there has been a change at Pavie, a drastic one.

The oldest Pavie I've had was the 1945, but it was drying out. With few tasting notes around, its difficult to know if it could have survived in another and better kept bottle. Then there's a gap up to the 1971, and now the 1979. These two are made in just the same style as the 1945 it seems, so my guess is that it wouldn't have survived even under perfect conditions. Then there is a huge change when we come to the 1998. It's so ripe and sweet, and the alcohol is glittering outside the body of the wine. This continues up until the 2008 and continues to do so even on more recent vintages. So Pavie has not only changed, you can't recognize it. Judging from the 1971 and 1979, the quality isn't much behind Mouton in the same vintages. But those were weak vintages. What happened in between?

For my palate it's no competition on the newer ones. Mouton has a typicity, a certain style, a certain elegance, complexity, and you always long for another glass. Pavie on the other hand is vulgar, rich, overly extracted, alcoholic and numbs the palate. And you definitely don't want another glass. I can't understand how some people can enjoy Pavie and even love it. That's like driving a Hummer, painted in pink with the biggest chrome alloys you can fit. Pavie has been in the lions' den before. Jancis Robinson MW has been hard on it and it seems that the European palate isn't that happy, whereas the American palate seems to enjoy it. Strange how two different continents can have such different experience on the same liquid. Below are resent tasting notes from the same vintages on both, and I for one, have a clear favorite. First they are, second they were, and now they are completely different.

Mouton for me was an old gentleman that was treated wrongfully. Pavie is more nouveau riche. 

1971 Château Pavie;

Ruby with orange rim, prunes and figs, fuller body for a 71, but actually not that much more going on. Nice acidity, somewhat rustic texture, a bit lean, very different from today's Pavie, good length. 87

1979 Château Pavie:
Very top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Tobacco, whiff of cherries, leather, somewhat scented and a deeper feel to it. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins soon gone. Fresh feel, elegant fruit, lovely by itself and a good length. 88


1998 Château Pavie;
Ruby, garnet rim. Rich, intense blueberry jam and chocolate, rolled in vanilla, stuffed in plums. Good acidity, ripe tannins, fatty texture, feels like a lot of alcohol on the body, rich. 85

2003 Château Pavie;

Deep ruby, cooked fruit, big, Port like, and actually has enough acidity. Ripe tannins, simple minded and not that long. A bit of a show-off. 87

2008 Château Pavie:
Dark ruby. Rich, sweet, dark and ungainly. Massive, rapes the palate. Not only that, why the heavy bottle? This could fare well in a Port tasting, but lacks the refreshing acidity of Port. Why make this in Bordeaux? Verges on undrinkable, at least with food, and if you manage more than one glass on its own, you're made of sterner stuff than me. 83?

1971 Château Mouton Rothschild;

(Magnum) Ruby, garnet rim, floral and red berries, elegant nose, refined, leather, cigars. Elegant tannins, if a bit lean, nice acidity, matches the body, tannins almost gone, bell peppers, good length. 89

1979 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Ruby, brick rim. Bell peppers, herbs, tobacco, coffee and a bit heavy nose. Medium acidity, mature tannins, almost gone, leaner body and fruit than nose. Dark chocolate bitterness in the finish, wood polish. Only tasted this once before, and that felt fresher and more together. 87

1998 Château Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby with thin garnet rim. Youthful, almost vegetal, a bit closed, then licorice and pencil behind. Intense in the mouth very complex, cassis, plums, fresh acidity, massive ripe tannins, very long finish. Needs at least ten years. 93

2003 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Finally. After this, I only have the vintage 2000 of Mouton left to taste, and I will have tasted every vintage of Mouton made in my lifetime. My first 03 Mouton, and if I had to guess how it should be, I would have landed on the exact behavior of the wine. So Mouton, and so 2003. Deep ruby, rich, lush, exotic and fruity. Layered of vanilla, leather, spices and a wealth of dark berries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, savory and superb palate, fresher feel than one could expect from the nose. Marvelous complexity and very nuanced. Incredible length. 97

2008 Château Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby, leather, cassis, peppers, heavier notes and fruits, even minerals, but this feels a bit more shut and the Mouton exotic style is subdued. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant, flirting and seductive, long length. 94

(This was not one tasting but tasting notes from the same vintage of these two estates from several occasions).