First I am, second I was, Mouton never changes. Can that be said about Pavie?

'First I am, second I was, Mouton never change'. These famous words were written on the label of Mouton Rothschild when it almost fourty years ago, in 1973, was elevated into the ranks of the First Growths. It used to state 'First, I cannot be. Second, I do not deign to be. Mouton I am'. For the first time since then, there has now been a new elevation. Not in Médoc, but in Saint-Emilion. Angelus and Pavie joined the ranks just a few months back. And that saying from Mouton, that Mouton never change, made me think. For me, one can taste the same style all the way back to the oldest I've tasted, the 1921. After a resent tasting of the 71 Pavie, and now the 79 Pavie it seems that yes, there has been a change at Pavie, a drastic one.

The oldest Pavie I've had was the 1945, but it was drying out. With few tasting notes around, its difficult to know if it could have survived in another and better kept bottle. Then there's a gap up to the 1971, and now the 1979. These two are made in just the same style as the 1945 it seems, so my guess is that it wouldn't have survived even under perfect conditions. Then there is a huge change when we come to the 1998. It's so ripe and sweet, and the alcohol is glittering outside the body of the wine. This continues up until the 2008 and continues to do so even on more recent vintages. So Pavie has not only changed, you can't recognize it. Judging from the 1971 and 1979, the quality isn't much behind Mouton in the same vintages. But those were weak vintages. What happened in between?

For my palate it's no competition on the newer ones. Mouton has a typicity, a certain style, a certain elegance, complexity, and you always long for another glass. Pavie on the other hand is vulgar, rich, overly extracted, alcoholic and numbs the palate. And you definitely don't want another glass. I can't understand how some people can enjoy Pavie and even love it. That's like driving a Hummer, painted in pink with the biggest chrome alloys you can fit. Pavie has been in the lions' den before. Jancis Robinson MW has been hard on it and it seems that the European palate isn't that happy, whereas the American palate seems to enjoy it. Strange how two different continents can have such different experience on the same liquid. Below are resent tasting notes from the same vintages on both, and I for one, have a clear favorite. First they are, second they were, and now they are completely different.

Mouton for me was an old gentleman that was treated wrongfully. Pavie is more nouveau riche. 

1971 Château Pavie;

Ruby with orange rim, prunes and figs, fuller body for a 71, but actually not that much more going on. Nice acidity, somewhat rustic texture, a bit lean, very different from today's Pavie, good length. 87

1979 Château Pavie:
Very top shoulder fill. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Tobacco, whiff of cherries, leather, somewhat scented and a deeper feel to it. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins soon gone. Fresh feel, elegant fruit, lovely by itself and a good length. 88


1998 Château Pavie;
Ruby, garnet rim. Rich, intense blueberry jam and chocolate, rolled in vanilla, stuffed in plums. Good acidity, ripe tannins, fatty texture, feels like a lot of alcohol on the body, rich. 85

2003 Château Pavie;

Deep ruby, cooked fruit, big, Port like, and actually has enough acidity. Ripe tannins, simple minded and not that long. A bit of a show-off. 87

2008 Château Pavie:
Dark ruby. Rich, sweet, dark and ungainly. Massive, rapes the palate. Not only that, why the heavy bottle? This could fare well in a Port tasting, but lacks the refreshing acidity of Port. Why make this in Bordeaux? Verges on undrinkable, at least with food, and if you manage more than one glass on its own, you're made of sterner stuff than me. 83?

1971 Château Mouton Rothschild;

(Magnum) Ruby, garnet rim, floral and red berries, elegant nose, refined, leather, cigars. Elegant tannins, if a bit lean, nice acidity, matches the body, tannins almost gone, bell peppers, good length. 89

1979 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Ruby, brick rim. Bell peppers, herbs, tobacco, coffee and a bit heavy nose. Medium acidity, mature tannins, almost gone, leaner body and fruit than nose. Dark chocolate bitterness in the finish, wood polish. Only tasted this once before, and that felt fresher and more together. 87

1998 Château Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby with thin garnet rim. Youthful, almost vegetal, a bit closed, then licorice and pencil behind. Intense in the mouth very complex, cassis, plums, fresh acidity, massive ripe tannins, very long finish. Needs at least ten years. 93

2003 Château Mouton Rothschild:
Finally. After this, I only have the vintage 2000 of Mouton left to taste, and I will have tasted every vintage of Mouton made in my lifetime. My first 03 Mouton, and if I had to guess how it should be, I would have landed on the exact behavior of the wine. So Mouton, and so 2003. Deep ruby, rich, lush, exotic and fruity. Layered of vanilla, leather, spices and a wealth of dark berries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, savory and superb palate, fresher feel than one could expect from the nose. Marvelous complexity and very nuanced. Incredible length. 97

2008 Château Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby, leather, cassis, peppers, heavier notes and fruits, even minerals, but this feels a bit more shut and the Mouton exotic style is subdued. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant, flirting and seductive, long length. 94

(This was not one tasting but tasting notes from the same vintage of these two estates from several occasions).