2008 Pessac-Léognan, Margaux and Médoc. IMW Annual Claret tasting

The 2008 vintage was a tougher batch to taste than last years 07's. But I found non of the rawness that I felt even as rescent as on the 08's tasted on my last Bordeaux trip a month back. So they seem to finally get rid of the baby fat (some 06's still have it though). There is more fruit and body than last year, but also more refreshing than many 09's, but not as smooth and seemless either. There is a lot of classical Bordeaux' to be had, and if your lucky, still at a good price, but most have catched up with the rest unfortunately. I found most communes to be fairly typical for their style, but some from Margaux was a bit too sweet for my liking. I want them to be more elegant and floral than ripe cassis. But Margaux is always a mixed bag. Saint- Julien, especially the trio of the two Barton estates, Langoa and Léoville with Gruaud Larose as well, I found to be very elegant. Talbot and Las Cases are very tight knit these days, but I think they will shine five to ten years down the road. Pauillac was robust and typical, with Clerc Milon and d'Armailhac both showing that there has been improvement. Grand Puy Lacoste a more classical style and Pontet-Canet felt richer than former bottles. Lafite for me is the wine of the vintage at this tasting, very subdued, but very fine indeed. But you have to search for it, it doesn't tell its secrets that easily. Saint-Estephe needs to shed its rumour of being rustic, as most wines aren't these days. They are rather more scented, often with a slight herbal touch to freshen things up and a tight but also generous cassis backbone. Yes, they are sometimes a little rough on the edges, but far from rustic. Pessac-Léognan had its minerals and many wines were more nuanced, and therefore somewhat more elegant than their 09 and/or 10 counterparts. Pomerol made some elegant ones, many more elegant than the 09's. Saint-Emilion was the one commune I didn't have the time to taste them all from. Especially after the palate killer Pavie. This is a Port in Bordeaux disguise. As one MW put it "-Its probably 14,5 on the label, and in reality closer to sixteen." Sauternes were fresh and Yquem a star, especially one bottle. The second time I tasted it (to rinse my palate with a great aftertaste on my way out) it lacked the magnificent aftertaste of the first I tried. But some doesn't quite have what it takes to thrill, but all are quite elegant. I tasted 85 of the 109 wines present in just under three hours, so if you feel the notes are on the short side, thats why.

Belgrave:

Ruby. Floral, cassis and scented nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins. Quite elegant. good length, soft. 89

Camensac:

Ruby. Fresh cassis nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly rough texture, good length. 88

Cantemerle:

Ruby. Some herbs and bell peppers behind cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing but herbal. 88

La Tour Carnet:

Ruby. Rich blueberries and cassis nose. Vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, somewhat sweet but less so than some vintages. Good length. 87

Pessac-Léognan

Bouscaut rouge:

Ruby. Some herbs and minerals below cassis. Elegant and soft texture, fresh acidity, ripe tannins. Long. 89

Dom de Chevalier rouge:

Deep ruby, minerals and cassis nose. fresh and lovely acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and playfull DdC, long finish.   92

De Fieuzal:

Ruby. Floral, vanilla, cassis and some minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, oak is falling into place since my last bottle, more elegant texture. Long. 90

Haut-Bailly:

Ruby. Scented over cassis, minerals and some tobacco. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, smooth and refreshing, velvety texture, long. 92

La Mission Haut-Brion:

Ruby. Scented and sweet vanilla and a touch of roses behind cassis and minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and rich palate, still a bit subdued somehow. Very long. 93+

Malartic Lagraviere:

Deep ruby. Floral, scented and mineraly with subdued cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and slightly sweet palate, long. 91

Olivier rouge:

Ruby. Minerals and cassis. Scented. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing palate, elegant texture, long. 91

Pape Clement:

Ruby. Cassis and bell peppers, a bit up front, spicy and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, grippy, not rich for PC. Long. 90

Smith Haut Lafitte:

Ruby. Spicy, coffee, cassis and minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit sweet, good length. 91

Margaux

Brane-Cantenac:

Ruby. Scented, violets, blueberries and cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more flirting and open than last bottle, very elegant. 92

Cantenac Brown:

Ruby. Floral and cassis, vanilla and oak more up front than last bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly sweet finish. Long. 90

Dauzac:

Ruby. Cassis and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant but one dimensional. 87

Desmirail:

Ruby. Sweet and herbal nose. Fresh acidity, sweet palate, ripe tannins, a bit boring. 87

Durfort-Vivens:

Ruby. Herbal and green paprika behind cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh and mouthwatering, long if not too complex. 90+

Ferriere:

Ruby. Rich cassis and a bit up front. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly sweet palate, good length. 89

Giscours:

Ruby. Floral and rich of cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant palate, fuller style, long finish. 91

d'Issan:

Ruby. Floral, cassis, leather and vanilla nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture, a bit lean, could be more complex. 90

Kirwan:

Ruby. Rich cassis with some floral over tones. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, grippy texture, long finish. 91+

Lascombes:

Ruby. Floral and cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, probably the most elegant Lascombes in years. Good length. 90

Marquis de Terme:

Ruby. Ever so slightly floral and cassis. Shows more nuances than the last bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture but lacks a bit of personality. But a lovely wine even so. 90+

Palmer:

Ruby. Scented, violets, cassis, layered and complex. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins. Refreshing and elegant, mouthwatering. Velvety texture, very long. 95

Prieuré-Lichine:

Ruby. Herbal and cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant texture and structure, long. 90

Rausan-Gassies:

Ruby. Floral and cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner body, nose promises but the rest doesn't live up. 88

Rausan-Ségla:

Ruby. Scented, coffee, cassis and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fuller body and rounder texture. Long. 91

Du Tertre:

Ruby. Paprika and cassis, vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit boring. 88